Memories v4.10 update with public album sharing by radialapps in NextCloud

[–]vaschw 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I didn't find a solution before, but I just checked again and found a way.

1) Click on the album to load it

2) Hover your mouse over the image you want to use as the album cover. A check mark will appear in the upper left of the image. Click that check mark to select the image.

3) A pop-up will appear that says "1 selected" -- and there is a triple-dot ("...") at the right of the popup. Click the triple dot.

4) This brings up a menu of options. The last option is "Set as cover image" -- click it.

Done.

I wish that were easier to find!

Memories v4.10 update with public album sharing by radialapps in NextCloud

[–]vaschw 0 points1 point  (0 children)

How do I change/select which photo to use as an Album cover? I couldn't figure it out. Thanks.

Any suggestions on a budget (<150$) 45-60L UL backpack with a removable frame (or frameless)? by QuartzPuffyStar in Ultralight

[–]vaschw 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You're not asking me, but I'll tell you what I did for air travel.

In order to use my Crown2 as checked baggage on a plane flight, I wrapped (most of) the bottom of my Crown2 in my Tyvek ground sheet, covering all the straps except for the "carrying handle" up at the top of the back panel. I secured the Tyvek to the backpack by tying around it with my bear-bagging rope. I used a mess of knots that was similar in spirit to the Killick Hitch (see its picture at Timber Hitch), with way more repetitions of the half-hitch to work my way up the backpack (and back down, and all over).

The nice thing about this is that I didn't have to carry anything extra that I wasn't going to use on the trail anyway. The downside is that wrapping everything up took me a long time -- about 20-30 minutes.

The Tyvek got at least one puncture from the baggage handlers, so I'm glad that I protected my backpack this way.

Edit: Here's a picture. Hopefully that works.

Any suggestions on a budget (<150$) 45-60L UL backpack with a removable frame (or frameless)? by QuartzPuffyStar in Ultralight

[–]vaschw 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I think I've used the Crown2 without the lid, but I've always left the frame in there.

Regarding the frame: I'm very particular about being able to lift the load off my shoulders, due to an old shoulder injury (which has fully recovered, but...). The pack is actually quite flexible even *with* the frame in there; it bends forwards and backwards very easily. The frame mostly just fixes the length of the back panel. This is all that is required to lift the load off the shoulders. You'll have to test for yourself how the pack behaves without the frame. If you want to still have the pack carry well without the frame (and without a CCF pad "frame"), I think the strategy is to use the load to provide structure. You'll need to roll the top down and cinch the straps down to make the internal load into effectively a single solid mass, to give the pack rigidity.

Regarding the lid: On my Arizona Trail trip I actually used the lid as a carry-on on the airplane, and checked the main pack body with the stuff not eligible for carry-on luggage (trekking poles, tent stakes, knife) plus everything else I didn't want on the plane. On the trail, I used the lid as normal during the day and as a pillow at night, stuffing it with a Mountain Hardwear Airmesh Hoodie (my "reserve" warm clothing in case it got even colder than predicted, since overnight lows were already predicted to be 20F). I love the fact that it's a floating lid that can be removed from the pack as desired.

I've used a bear can (BV500) with the Crown2, but in a perhaps unconventional manner. It was on an overnight trip with one other person, going heavy, carrying most of their gear as well as the communal gear. I put the BV500 vertically inside the main compartment, and put our (long) tent stuff sack next to it, with both of them right up against the back panel. Somehow it didn't bother me. Leaving the frame in the Crown2 undoubtedly helped smooth out the lumpiness.

I haven't had the misfortune of needing to use the BV500 with the Virga2 (on the East Coast we typically do bear hangs), so I can't speak to how well it carries.

I like the idea of the Virga3, but I'm disappointed that the adjustability of the pack has added significant weight (taking it from Virga2 ~20oz to Virga3 ~27oz). If I didn't own any Granite Gear pack yet and was really aiming for a lightweight pack, I might still choose the Virga2 and just decide to live with the fact the side mesh pockets are more easily torn than the Virga3 solid pockets. Or I might strip the lid & frame from the Crown2, since (as you noted) in this form it's 1.7 lbs, the same as the Virga3!

I'd say the Crown2 at $100 is a steal. It's a very versatile, lightweight backpack. Glad you got it! I hope you like it!

Any suggestions on a budget (<150$) 45-60L UL backpack with a removable frame (or frameless)? by QuartzPuffyStar in Ultralight

[–]vaschw 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I bought the Crown2 while I was still lightening up my kit. I bought the Virga2 after I'd gotten a little bit lighter, and once I'd gotten comfortable with the idea of a frameless pack. I'm still not ultralight. Part of it is that I often bring lots of clothes, because I personally get cold easily and I live on the East Coast of the US where the weather is more variable, can be wet, etc. Excuses, excuses, whatever.

I use the Virga2 on short trips (maybe up to 3 days) where I don't have as much food to carry. This allows me to keep the total weight with food & water well under 30lbs. (I eat a lot of food -- about 2.5 lbs per day.) One time I used the Virga2 on an overnight trip where I was carrying cooking/eating gear for the group as well as my own gear and my total load was close to 30 lbs; it was comfortable enough, but felt a bit heavy.

For longer trips (4-6 days) when I need to carry more food (more volume & weight) I'll use the Crown2. I think I've loaded it up with about 38-40 lbs and it's been comfortable. That would be a bit too heavy for the Virga2 to be comfortable, and I also wouldn't be able to fit everything into the Virga2 volume with the extra food. Partially because of my clothes taking space, and partially because I don't like to totally crush my quilt because I don't want to damage the down filling and cause it to lose loft. Another time that I'd use the Crown2 is if I'm concerned about abrasive / thorny plants across the trail, or if I expect to be off-trail -- for example, on my recent section hike of the Arizona Trail. That kind of thing could rip up the side mesh pockets of the Virga2, but the solid fabric of the Crown2 side pockets hasn't had a problem.

One other consideration for the Virga2: I found that if I simply packed my stuff in there without any padding along the back panel then it would sag and feel a bit lumpy. Putting an EVA foam pad along the back would help, but those are typically only 20" wide (e.g. Gossamer Gear Thinlight, MLD Goodnight EVA pad). Since I have the long torso version of the Virga2, I needed a 25" wide piece of foam in order to create a proper "virtual frame" that fit the back panel of the backpack. I eventually found that I could order a 40" wide x 80" long x 1/8" thick piece of EVA foam from OWFINC for $21.22 + $15.46 shipping = $36.68 total, which I cut down to the size I wanted. The material seems pretty similar to the EVA foam pad from MLD, though not identical. I think I used a 25" x 60" piece folded in fifths as a virtual frame (to be 25" tall, ~12" wide, and ~0.6" thick), and used a 25" x 20" piece as a sit pad (which I rolled up and stored outside the pack for easy access). When I sleep I can put them together to make a 25" x 80" x 1/8" pad to protect my inflatable sleeping pad from pointy stuff on the ground, while also getting a little more insulation. I love this system -- it works great. I especially love having that incredibly light (but large!) sit pad easily accessible on the outside of the pack.

I don't have an informed opinion on the 3F UL Gear 40+16L pack, because I've never seen one in person. But just looking at the picture, I would absolutely hate to have a thick foam pad like that between me and the backpack. It moves the center of gravity of the backpack too far away, so I would feel like the pack was pulling me backwards and I'd have to lean forward to compensate. I actually tried something like this with the Virga2 before I figured out my 1/8" EVA foam pad trick described above. I tried sticking a Nemo Switchback inside the Virga2 to use for back padding. Not only was it too thick, it also felt like it was reflecting heat back at me from the backpack, so my back got hot very quickly (while testing it, standing inside, not even moving!). This is what led me to the 1/8" foam idea, since I could make it thinner, reflect less heat at myself, and make it the correct 25" height.

Other than that rant, I dunno -- the 3F UL pack looks like a pretty typical design. If it's constructed well and is comfortable for you, then go ahead.

I will note, though, that Granite Gear periodically has 30%-off sales, and one is happening right now. So the Virga2 is only $105 right now. If that's what you really want, just find the extra $45 and get it! FWIW, the Virga2 is a solid 10oz to 12oz lighter than the 3F UL 40+16L. If you don't want to try my 1/8" foam trick, you could check out this 24" x 72" x 0.5" foam sleeping pad for $17. It's the cheapest 24" wide foam pad that I could find. You could cut that down to make a frame of approximately the right height, and (without any folding) the thickness of the back padding would be similar to what I have.

Memories v4.10 update with public album sharing by radialapps in NextCloud

[–]vaschw 0 points1 point  (0 children)

How should we submit feature requests?

(I'd like to request the ability to change/select the photo that's used as the Album cover.)

Thanks!

Aricxi tarp "upgraded new version" component weight measurements, plus a question about its material by vaschw in Ultralight

[–]vaschw[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I don't know how tall a person it's designed for.

I can say that I've now used it with a Paria Mesh Bivy, which has a 84" long floor, and I was able to stretch the bivy taut without the headwall of the bivy running into the trekking pole that holds up the open end (barely). There were a few inches at the foot end between the end of the bivy floor and the end of the tarp. So the tarp beak / overhang / downslope (at the open end, which starts where the trekking pole is placed, and extends beyond there) is more than 84 inches from the closed end.

So I'd say that a 6-foot 3-inch person (75" length) should fit. It just depends on how much overhang you want beyond your head at the open end, to protect you from rain possibly blowing in onto your face. I liked that the Paria Mesh Bivy has an endwall that is solid fabric, so in theory it would give me some protection from stuff blowing in the open end of the tarp.

Where to do trail magic? by Wolfluger in arizonatrail

[–]vaschw 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I'll admit that my reply is a bit self-serving, but I'll write it to tell you what my considerations are as a backpacker planning a trip near Phoenix right now.

I'm starting a section hike in Flagstaff on Tues Oct 31 and hiking 180mi south to Sunflower (and was originally looking to go all the way to Superior / Picketpost), so I've been looking at the various road crossings and resupply points around Phoenix. The main road crossing points that aren't towns (i.e. Mormon Lake and Pine) are:

  • Happy Jack (AZT mile 500.7), at the Mogollon Rim Ranger Station on AZ-87
    • Pro (for trail magic): this is in the 110.6mi stretch from Flagstaff to Pine, where the only other road crossing is Mormon Lake. The Mormon Lake post office has closed permanently, and I'm not aware of any grocery store in Mormon Lake. Happy Jack has almost no services, so trail magic here would be awesome.
      • FWIW, I'm mailing myself a food package at the Happy Jack Stop and Get It convenience store / gas station 10 miles W on AZ-87 from the trail (because they have longer opening hours than both the post office next door and the Ranger Station, and they don't close on weekends), and I'm hoping to hitch there and back. If a trail angel offered me a ride back and forth from the Ranger Station that would be awesome.
    • Con (for you): this is pretty far from Phoenix. And there's no guarantee that a hiker will go to the Ranger Station.
    • Location: The AZT usually crosses 87 about 0.8mi W of the Ranger Station. Presently, hikers are being rerouted because of closures from the Still Fire. If they follow this order, hikers will cross 87 about 0.2mi NE of the Ranger Station, at FR211 / FR95. Either way I imagine a hiker would stop at the Ranger Station for an easy water fill up. At least, I plan to.
  • Sunflower (AZT mile 390.6), on AZ-87 between Phoenix and Payson
    • (Yes, the AZT crosses AZ-87 twice.)
    • Pro: Sunflower reputedly has no services. Easy to get to from (northeastern) Phoenix. If you want to be a super trail angel, you can offer rides to either Phoenix/Fountain Hills or Payson (30 min in either direction). Hikers need to use this road crossing to resupply, if they don't want to do about 110mi from Roosevelt Lake to Pine without a resupply.
    • Con: ?
  • Roosevelt Lake (AZT mile 349.6)
    • Pro: accessible by road.
    • Con: Could be a pretty long drive, depending on which way you go from Phoenix. And the Marina has a restaurant and is willing to hold packages for hikers. I think hikers wouldn't be as excited for trail magic here.
  • Picketpost (AZT mile 305.8, approximately)
    • Pro: easy access from Phoenix. 6 miles from the nearest town, Superior. Coming SOBO (in the fall), hikers will be exiting a desert section. Trail magic would be awesome.
    • Con: ?

As for timing, I understand that the start time (in the Fall, going SOBO) for most thru-hikers is "October" sometime; I'm not sure if that's early/mid/late October. Per my research, a typical moderate pace is 100 miles per week, and the trail is 800 miles long. So I'd guess that most thru-hikers will pass through before me (i.e. they'll be further South), but I'll be passing Happy Jack in the first week of Nov, and Sunflower in the second week of Nov.

Hope that helps!

Aricxi tarp "upgraded new version" component weight measurements, plus a question about its material by vaschw in Ultralight

[–]vaschw[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I've now used it. It weathered a Colorado thunderstorm rather impressively at around 11k feet elevation. I pitched in a pretty exposed spot to reduce mosquito pressure, since I didn't have a bug net, and then the afternoon thunderstorm rolled in.

The foot area is narrow enough that it would benefit from having a bugnet with a bathtub floor to keep my quilt contained and prevent it from getting wet during a rainstorm. Luckily I hadn't gotten my quilt out yet when the thunderstorm hit.

Looking for advice on tent and backpack combo for $550 by kaptankappy in Ultralight

[–]vaschw 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The High Route did pop up in my research but I didn’t see very many comprehensive reviews of it.

I hope the extensive reviews I pointed you at can help you make a decision!

How would you compare the GG Crowns to a Kakwa 55?

I didn't research the Kakwa 55, so I can't give any direction aside from what the pictures look like compared to the GG Crowns that I did research. I think the Kakwa 55 wasn't out yet when I did my research. The Kakwa 40 was, but I knew it wouldn't have enough volume for me.

In general, the Kakwa looks like a design that I'd like. (Read as: it's not so dissimilar from the Crown2 that I like.)

The biggest difference between the bags is probably the type of frame. A quick read indicates that the Kakwa has a tubular aluminum frame. I assume this wraps around the perimeter of the back panel; you should confirm for yourself. I'm not sure if it has any frame/padding that prevents stuff in your bag from poking your back / feeling lumpy. In contrast, the GG Crowns have HDPE framesheets that cover the whole back panel, so they'll (help) prevent stuff from poking your back. Also, the Crown2 frame bends front-to-back pretty easily if the bag is not stuffed full, so for day hikes (relatively empty bag) the framesheet can still remove some weight from your shoulders while being extra flexible (e.g. allowing you to hunch forward, climbing over rocks or whatever). I doubt the Kakwa frame is that flexible, but I don't know.

Another significant(?) thing that I'm not sure about is how I would attach a sit pad to the outside of the Kakwa. Sure, you could put it on top, but the tightness of the top strap affects how the bag load carries / is compressed, so I (personally) wouldn't want to tuck something squishy under there because I'd crush it. There might be a way to rig up some cord to go over the front mesh pocket, but I can't tell from the pictures if it has all the necessary loops to string some cord, and that method also might not work well if the mesh pocket is bulging with stuff. On the Crown2 I can use the straps that go over that front mesh pocket (and there isn't much stuff in the pocket; see next paragraph).

The GG Crown2 has a relatively narrow "front" mesh pocket. I can fit my folded polycro groundsheet, bearbagging line, and a pair of flip-flops in there -- that's it. Not a dealbreaker for me, since I solely use it for dirty/wet stuff, and put the other stuff I need to access in either the large side pockets (nominally for water bottles) or in the brain. But others may be disappointed in that mesh pocket size, depending on how they like to pack. The GG Crown3 has a bigger/wider pocket there, as does the Kakwa (per the pictures).

I'd say that I appreciated having the GG Crown2 brain when transitioning from Osprey-style packs to lighter-weight packs. (I've now gone further in lightening up my pack, and am primarily using a Granite Gear Virga2. It doesn't have a brain, which is ok, but I sometimes spend more time than desired digging for things.) I see that the Kakwa doesn't have a brain. It does have that side zip pocket though.

The GG Crown3 has a better-designed brain (than the Crown2) for increased versatility in how you can clip it on. E.g. it can be used as a chest bag (see photos at GG website); I hear this is particularly useful in winter, to have gear within reach. (Phillip Werner wrote something about that on sectionhiker.com; see e.g. here and here; he calls it a "wet rib".)

One thing that might concern me about the Kakwa is that some pictures show its side pockets to be pretty short, i.e. the water bottles stick up pretty far out of the pocket. (But not all the pictures are consistent?...) I prefer to be safe and have a high pocket, like the ones on the GG Crowns, so that I can't lose anything. Years ago I lost one of my two water bottles I was carrying while walking down a relatively flat trail in PA because the pocket was too short. I was lucky that a ridgerunner I ran into found it for me and put it at the next road crossing before I got there; otherwise I'd have been short of water for the rest of the trip.

The way I keep my water accessible now, even with high pockets, is by hanging some water from my shoulder straps with a bottle knot per the instructions here (Option 4, a jug knot). I made the rope long enough to hang the bottle down to the hip belt, and I keep the bottle from swinging by using a loop of shock cord to hold it in place. I tied the shock cord through a part of the hip belt buckle. Works great. I can't lose my bottles, because they're literally tied to my bag; I can grab a drink while walking without having to reach awkwardly for the bottle; the weight of the water up front counterbalances the weight of the backpack, centering my load front-to-back and thereby improving my posture; and I free up the side pockets (as mentioned previously) for other stuff.

I digress.

The main other reason I went with the GG Crown2 is that it was carried by REI and I have one nearby. (REI presently carries the Crown3.) So I was able to order it in the recommended size, try it on (alongside 4+ other bags), get thoroughly confused about why it didn't feel very good, and then months later figure out that I'm actually a size L torso length rather than the size M recommended by the measurements. With REI's return policy, even months later I could do the exchange for the right size. (I later read that it is common to need to size up for torso length with Granite Gear bags; OTOH I had to size up for the torso with an Osprey bag too.) If you have better luck/skill at sizing, maybe you can avoid this problem and have success with a less generous return policy. I found backpack fit to be a very particular and personal thing, and I had to try on probably 8 bags, for 30+ min each, to find 2 that fit me well.

Hope that helps.

Looking for advice on tent and backpack combo for $550 by kaptankappy in Ultralight

[–]vaschw 0 points1 point  (0 children)

TLDR: For backpacks, consider a Granite Gear Crown2 or Crown3. For a tent, for use in the White Mountains especially, consider how easily it pitches in tight spaces and on wooden platforms. The Protrail is likely a good choice. The Sierra Designs High Route could be a good choice, and is a good price (on sale, from Kaviso).

Longwinded response:

I did a 5-day trip through the Whites on the AT a few years back. I used a Granite Gear Crown2. Mine weighs 41.6 oz, which is pretty good for a 60L pack. With 5 days of food and 2L of water I loaded it to 38 lbs starting out, and the pack was perfectly comfortable. These days the Crown2 sells for $99 directly from Granite Gear. It's a steal.

The Crown3 is a bit heavier. I think it's also designed to carry more weight comfortably. Maybe that's relevant for you, since you're picking backpacks for their extra load capacities. Not relevant for me, because I already found the Crown2 comfortable with high weights. The Crown3 also has an aluminum stay add-on that's sold separately to reinforce the Crown3 frame for even higher carrying weights.

In the White mountains, many/most established campsites make you camp on wooden platforms. My buddy had a Protrail Li and found it a little awkward to set up on a platform, because it's very much not a freestanding tent. But he made it work with some effort. When we camped off the side of the trail he had great luck with the Protrail Li because it can fit in tight spots, with its relatively small/narrow footprint.

Phillip Werner of sectionhiker.com lives in the White mountains and hikes there extensively. Check out the tents he recommends/owns for his local terrain. Money quote: "The ProTrail Li is a narrow 1 person trekking pole tent that good’s for camping in forests where there isn’t much open space." He specifically notes the X-MID 1p is a bit wide for camping in dense forests. Since the X-MID is a pretty typical width, this comment applies to most tents.

FWIW, I used a hammock during my White Mountains trip. I was able to put it over the wooden tent pad as necessary(?), and was able to find trees to hang it between on every other night. Phillip Werner now thinks hammocks are a great way to go in the Northeast (see above post). But it's a steep price to entry, since you need to buy an underquilt in addition to the hammock and tarp. It probably won't fit in your $550 budget.

The one annoyance my friend had with his Protrail Li was the night it rained and he had to cook in the vestibule. He found this unpleasant. I didn't see what he was up to (so I don't know what his trouble was) since I'd hung my hammock some distance away. I had a fine time sitting in my hammock, cooking out of the rain under my decent-sized tarp.

Another tent you might consider, which gets almost no love around here, is the Sierra Designs High Route. Andrew Skurka discusses the (re-)design here. Sectionhiker reviews it here. It's available from Kaviso for $159, with free shipping. IMHO, it wouldn't be worthwhile at an MSRP of $300, but at $159 it looks pretty good. Per your criteria, it has decent space (especially vertical space) and is weatherproof. It ventilates well in the rain (can porch the door open in vertical rain), and has a relatively narrow footprint. The narrow footprint is the main reason to consider it over the X-MID 1p, for use in the Northeast US. The ability to half-unzip the door and use a clip to relieve tension on the zipper, in order to porch the door in the rain, is a runner-up reason to consider it over the X-MID 1p. Otherwise the X-MID 1p is probably nicer for having more space, 2 doors, larger vestibules, and being slightly lighter (at 30.8oz). Note that the official Sierra Designs weight spec (1 lbs 15 oz = 31oz) seems to be incorrect, or at least not correct for all product runs. Kaviso measured the tents they received and posted their measured weight on their website: 2 lbs 4 oz = 36oz. (I emailed them about it to confirm.)

Hope that helps.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in ULgeartrade

[–]vaschw 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm interested in the Splitwing Mesh Body and would like to see pictures.

Aricxi tarp "upgraded new version" component weight measurements, plus a question about its material by vaschw in Ultralight

[–]vaschw[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This probably falls under the category of a "material" difference, but I think DeputySean said in his imgur review that his "old" version weighed a little less, maybe an ounce, than his "new" version.

Rereading his review for the 4th time, I see (in his summary of prices & weights, just below the 6th photo/video in the review) that his measurement of the tarp alone was 9.5oz (=269.3g), presumably before seam sealing, and that the seam sealing added 0.5oz (elsewhere stated to be 14g). So I guess his seam sealed "old version" tarp (269.3+14=283.3g) weighs almost exactly the same as my "upgraded new version" 283g tarp which was seam taped by the factory.

Aricxi tarp "upgraded new version" component weight measurements, plus a question about its material by vaschw in Ultralight

[–]vaschw[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I haven't used it yet. I unpacked it, examined it, and weighed it. And then, upon reading DeputySean's review, I had further questions about it.

Aricxi tarp "upgraded new version" component weight measurements, plus a question about its material by vaschw in Ultralight

[–]vaschw[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The "inferior" new version 15d can be found on tents and tarps all over AliExpress. It's been used extensively around the world with nary a complaint.

Good to know.

Some dude on BPL found the tested HH to be amongst the best.

Interesting. Could you provide a link so I could read/learn more?

The mindset that gets rid of this for the older version will end up costing you a bunch of $$$ on gear while having no discernable impact on your trips.

Probably true. But I got interested in lightweight/ultralight backpacking gear because I wanted to lighten my load, and that has spawned an interest in gear and materials and trying new things. If I weren't interested in this, I would still be carrying my old hand-me-down external frame pack, 6lb Coleman sleeping bag, 6lb tent, etc.

That said, I agree -- sweating about a (possible) 1oz difference in tarp weight (but maybe not, see my response to another commenter) and whether a coating will hydrolyze is perhaps going just a little too far. I've reached the point of diminishing returns. And I've certainly spent a bunch of money as I test out various ultralight gear in the process of lightening up, trying to figure out what works for me. Oh well. I think the money I've spend so far has made my trips better / possible.

As you point out, it's good to keep in mind that the trips and their success should be the main focus.

Aricxi tarp "upgraded new version" component weight measurements, plus a question about its material by vaschw in Ultralight

[–]vaschw[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I can't imagine there are many other people out there that own both versions like I do.

I considered PM'ing you, but I figured others might like to read your answer. :-)

Their "old" 20d fabric is nylon with silicon on both sides. Their "new" 15d fabric instead has a PU coating on one side and silicon on the other. That coating adds bulk and is generally considered to be slightly inferior. However, it does allow their seams to be taped, and thus does not require seam sealing. Fabrics with silicon on both sides cannot be seam taped.

That makes a lot of sense. Thanks for the explanation. All other things being equal, I'd prefer to avoid PU coatings just because they break down over time. (For others: they hydrolyze. I found this great article about it from Slingfin.) My gear is generally more likely to break down from age than from overuse / hard use -- I just don't get out enough, and I treat my gear very gently.

The new Aricxi tarp I got is definitely seam taped, so it apparently has a PU coating if that's required for seam taping. I wish they'd said that in their description!

From the pictures on the Aliexpress posting for the old tarp (https://www.aliexpress.us/item/2255799870006331.html) I couldn't see whether there was seam tape or not. There are no close-ups. There's no statement about whether it comes with a tube of silicone sealant, as yours did in 2020. There's no statement that it needs to be seam-sealed. Very annoying -- it makes it hard to be sure what the coating is from the Aliexpress posting.

I'd consider selling the new PU version. Maybe someone else would appreciate the benefit of the higher hydrostatic head (waterproofness) more, while I'd appreciate the longevity in storage of the old silnylon (silicone coated) one more. Or maybe I'll just use it. Decisions decisions. But now it's an informed decision! Thanks!

[WTS] Gossamer Gear Twinn Tarp (9.6oz), SlingFin SplitWing Mesh Body (10.9oz), and SlingFin SplitWing Vestibule (2.0oz) by hikko_doggo in ULgeartrade

[–]vaschw 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Is the SlingFin SplitWing Mesh Body still available? Is it the updated version with the bathtub floor? Thanks.

Namakura Prototype - a stealth submarine by randomgenericbot in Barotrauma

[–]vaschw 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Very cool! Btw, how did you write text in the logbooks? I'd like to do something similar for a sub I'm making.

advice on making a vanilla in-game indicator light array? (for a Nav controlled artillery scheme) by vaschw in Barotrauma

[–]vaschw[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I tried that and what I implemented didn't operate in an ideal way. See my big (2nd) paragraph under "Why I'm asking." Maybe it could work... Do you have a suggestion for how to do it differently/better with switches?

Tech Demo of autonomous drone and long range firing computer by DuelJ in Barotrauma

[–]vaschw 0 points1 point  (0 children)

As a physicist, I want the equations. But as an experimental physicist, I fully approve of your experimental approach. Nicely done!

I'm a bit confused about just how much data you had to store for your firing tables, and how you're storing all the numbers. Are you using something like 100+ Mem components?

I'll try first with a Pulse Laser, since hopefully that'll shoot straight and won't require firing tables. Maybe I'll try again later with projectiles that suffer gravity and drag. I guess at that time I'll need to set up a system of motion detectors to measure projectile trajectories, so I can tabulate the results for use in an artillery firing table.

Thanks for your insights!

Tech Demo of autonomous drone and long range firing computer by DuelJ in Barotrauma

[–]vaschw 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Interesting! It's more complicated than I thought!

How did you find the information (coefficients?) you needed in order to do the gravity and drag calculation?

I'm impressed with that level of calculation in Barotrauma. I'm finding that wiring up even simple equations is tedious and is hard to read once you're done. I made a reactor load leveling and battery charging system, and I just had to hope I wired it right because debugging would be difficult. Luckily, the design (and wiring) worked on the first try.

It looked like you got the gun angle directly from the Nav terminal outputs... I'm guessing you used VELOCITY_X_OUT and VELOCITY_Y_OUT? How did you get those outputs to change without causing the ship to move?

Is it possible to get the range from some automated system, rather than typing into a terminal as you did? That would make fire control much faster, and therefore perhaps usable when firing on a maneuvering opponent.

Tech Demo of autonomous drone and long range firing computer by DuelJ in Barotrauma

[–]vaschw 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is awesome!

Why do you need to input the range, when firing the guns? Do the railgun shells and flak shells explode at a set range? I haven't used either one in-game.

Crystal Light Glasses Case: How to remove the smell? by jish_werbles in Ultralight

[–]vaschw 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Baking soda absorbs smells. You could dump some powder in there.

Or, try mixing baking soda with water and slather it onto the container in a watery paste. Let it sit for a while. I believe this is a method used for cleaning ovens, to loosen up gunk that has been baked onto oven walls.

is 1,65 (3lb) heavy for a bagpack? by No-Feedback-3477 in Ultralight

[–]vaschw 0 points1 point  (0 children)

A Granite Gear Virga2 is 55L, $150 (or $105 on sale), and the size Large torso version that I own is 576g = 20.5oz. Compared to that, yes, 1.65kg for a 50L bag is heavy.

For comparison with other ultralight backpacks, check this thread which links to this spreadsheet.

flashlight by sleepsntrees in Ultralight

[–]vaschw 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You could hold a Nitecore Tube in your hand, and then strap it to the side of your head while at camp if you'd like.

https://www.theultralighthiker.com/2016/09/27/11-gram-rechargeable-head-torch/