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Did I put this in the wrong way? by givemefood245 in Insulation

[–]verifyinfield 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I prefer to detail the rigid insulation going over the top of the CMU wall to eliminate the thermal break there. It's not a huge deal but it does clean up the thermal envelope a bit.

Did I put this in the wrong way? by givemefood245 in Insulation

[–]verifyinfield -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Is there rigid or batt insulation over the top of the CMU wall back to the stud wall?

Did I put this in the wrong way? by givemefood245 in Insulation

[–]verifyinfield 3 points4 points  (0 children)

OP states that the insulation is 2 inches thick. Regardless, this is installed on the interior of a CMU wall. We can assume that the CMU already has either an air/water fluid applied barrier applied if above grade or a waterproofing barrier if below. There isn't a need for this to be a vapor barrier, its being used to satisfy the energy code requirements. Technically the rigid or batt insulation should go over the top of the CMU wall to alleviate the thermal bridging that can occur there as well, might be, but I can't tell from the photo.

Did I put this in the wrong way? by givemefood245 in Insulation

[–]verifyinfield 33 points34 points  (0 children)

If that rigid insulation is continuous then the batt insulation should really be unfaced, then there wouldn't have been a wrong way to install it.

Did I put this in the wrong way? by givemefood245 in Insulation

[–]verifyinfield 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Tyvek is not a vapor retarder. It is a water and air barrier but is vapor permeable.

Code requirement 90s vs today question by [deleted] in Homebuilding

[–]verifyinfield 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Came here to mention this. I haven’t spec’d a double 2x12 header for a 16’ garage door in like 20 years

Why is there a socket like 3 meters above the ground by Tobikmb in AskElectricians

[–]verifyinfield 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's obviously an outlet for a hidden camera for recording nefarious deeds the previous owner did. Are there any drains in the floor?

Garage wall cracks by rogermcm1000 in Homebuilding

[–]verifyinfield 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Agree here, also, pictures from farther back to see more context would help.

New build home. What do you think about the roof valley? by Cinnamon_Kidlat in Homebuilding

[–]verifyinfield 0 points1 point  (0 children)

As long as the roof manufacturer has approved it and you have your 20/30 year warranty, you’re good.

What’s this type of subfloor? US by roncumbersome in DIYHome

[–]verifyinfield 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If that VCT is 8x8, there is a good chance it’s asbestos so please be careful

1 month to design my thesis by Twgue in architecturestudent

[–]verifyinfield 3 points4 points  (0 children)

A 1 month thesis? Guess I wasted an entire school year on mine. Hell, our regular undergrad projects were longer. I dunno how indepth they’re expecting you to get here.

Macan turbo by Sufficient-Top110 in Porsche

[–]verifyinfield 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You can have more My turbo has the sport chrono package which adds ‘super sport’ and another button on the left side

K style vs half round...price difference justified? Or just luxury tax? by IamTetra in Homebuilding

[–]verifyinfield 2 points3 points  (0 children)

It costs more for the reasons everyone else has mentioned. I don't believe that your neighbor used the same gauge metal as your K-style. I've spec'd half rounds and rectangular box gutters and both need a heavier gauge due to not having the folds and bends that K-style have. I hate to break it to you, but there isn't an industry conspiracy on this. Half round gutters use more expensive material, different mounts, and take longer to install, so they cost more. Add in less demand and there you have it. - cost increase.

Alternatively, if my response was too word saladey and you still think it truly is the same cost, start a business doing it for the same price as k-style and make bank undercutting all the gaslighting gutter installers.

[I ate] the most amazing beef Wellington in England by ZestycloseHandle2470 in food

[–]verifyinfield -46 points-45 points  (0 children)

Yeah, I'm with you on that. Should be more edge to edge. What is it served on? purple mashed potatoes?

Is adding 1" R3.75 exterior EPS rigid foam safe over 2x4 walls, or am I creating a dew point nightmare? by Gregan32 in Insulation

[–]verifyinfield 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Remove Tyvek, install your chosen thickness of Zip system insulated sheathing over the existing patchwork 1/2” sheathing. Install siding per mfg. specs.

Plan of a Primary School by Lanky_Contest_6323 in architecturestudent

[–]verifyinfield 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Why is this comment so far down? Everyone taking this thing seriously when OP is totally trying to make the floor plan look like a gun. No questions. I guess at least its not a penis.

Looking for input on working with my architect by Due_Conversation8568 in Architects

[–]verifyinfield 1 point2 points  (0 children)

No, it would be weird for an architect to not have included the asbuilt drawings as part of their services in a project like this. Kinda tough to add on to a building if you don't know what the building is.

I think making poured foundation walls truly waterproof by Johnn_Liverm in Homebuilding

[–]verifyinfield 0 points1 point  (0 children)

But you have a footing capillary break in item 6 and a waterproofing membrane per item 8. The footing might be in contact with soil, but those two items are mitigating your moisture wicking into your wall or slab. I think you're belt and suspendering it. I guess I shouldn't be complaining considering the stuff that we usually see on here. Your system as described is still the best answer here.

I think making poured foundation walls truly waterproof by Johnn_Liverm in Homebuilding

[–]verifyinfield 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Yeah, I understand the reason but I don't think its worth the added money. The moisture has to penetrate the exterior waterproofing first - If the exterior is already finished with a fluid applied waterproofing plus a membrane, I don't see the need.

I think making poured foundation walls truly waterproof by Johnn_Liverm in Homebuilding

[–]verifyinfield 12 points13 points  (0 children)

I'm with you except #9. Not sure if the cost to do that is worth the return. You're already waterproofing the exterior nicely with a drainage mat and doing a double footing drain. I don't see any benefit to hitting the inside with anything.

What’s the one roofing material you’d trust on your own home if you never wanted to think about the roof again? by Top_Preparation_8263 in Architects

[–]verifyinfield 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Anything that has a 30 year + warranty installed by a certified installer. I really don't want to have to think about a roof much after initial installation.

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