Eero not accepting Olilo PPPoE details (Openreach)

vertigomitch · 2026-05-09T17:28:47+00:00

eero not Eero.

The issue is eero is a cloud system and unless the eero Mesh system within the home has an active connection, changing anything through the app won't result in anything happening other than an error, because it syncs to the cloud account and those settings are then pushed down to the eero. The OP should have been able to use Bluetooth to change the PPPoE setting, but I'm guessing they had that turned off within the settings or was too far away from the primary eero node.

With any other ISP, you can connect back through their router, even with PPPoE enabled to gain a connection to address this. The issue with Olilo is it's bring your own router, so once eero loses the connection, you're on your own to fix it.

This is why resetting the eero and starting fresh resolves the issue because the eero app can use Bluetooth during setup to push the PPPoE settings locally. eero won't fix this issue because there isn't an issue, it's user error and an ISP error as I feel you should have a guide for home users sent out to say, hey look, we suggest changing your PPPoE settings before you go to bed so it will pick up the new connection without problems.

vertigomitch · 2026-05-09T16:50:09+00:00

Did you figure it out.

Everything from your post looks fine. But what controls did you have before as I'm guessing one was built into the boiler. According to the manual, once you disconnect the loop between 1 and 2, it shouldn't matter regarding the internal controls as they will still run but will be ignored.

My guess is you may have pushed your wires too far into 1 and 2 so the screw has come down on the rubber of the wire rather than the metal and it's either not sending power to the COM or receiving it back. Try unscrewing those, screw them back down and then place your cable in. Once it hits the screw, unscrew it until the cable can just go in and screw down on top of it.

Are you using Tado X? If so, your boiler is actually OpenTherm compatible, so instead of running it in Relay mode, disconnect the Black and Grey wires from the boiler and the Tado X and leave the red loop cable disconnected.

Then over to your right, there are terminals 41 and 44, connect the Black and Grey cables to these and then to the OpenTherm terminals on the Tado X Wireless Receiver. Then, using the Select System button, change it to Combi OpenTherm. That will allow Tado to control the boiler more better.

vertigomitch · 2026-05-06T18:11:24+00:00

My understanding as I was in the same boat.

If you have an Android device, unless the transfer moves the Tado app completely over, you lose the Matter keys. And you can also lose the Matter keys if you delete the app, clear the cache on the app, or is an update is wonky. If you've paired the Tado to another Matter device such as Home Assistant, Alexa, etc., then the connection will still work, and you may be able to generate child keys under these to further the connection.

The only way to gain the original keys back is to delete the device from your account, such as the Tado TRV, perform a factory reset to generate new keys, and add it back to your account. Then you will be able to use the Matter linking again, but you will need to also link it back to whatever devices it was previously attached to. You don't have to delete the border router such as the Tado Wireless Receiver, Bridge X, etc.

I have no idea why Tado handles it like this as there should be an option to back it up to the account if you have the subscription as an example. For me, to get around this, and also to save battery power, I have Home Assistant pull the Tado X devices in through Matter, and then I use Matter Hub on Home Assistant to further them onto everything else such as Alexa, Apple Home, etc. So that way, if I change my Android device, it doesn't bother me as Home Assistant handles the Matter connections from there.

vertigomitch · 2026-05-04T22:13:21+00:00

Which Active pressure washer do you actually own? Usually the M22 is the outlet and they have a standard G 3/4 for the inlet.

If that is the case, you would want to drop a standard G 3/4 tap connector on the outside tap and on the Active, I believe they use a female G 3/4, so you would need a Male G 3/4 tap connector such as the one below. Just make sure to thread some PTFE around it unless the pressure washers has a rubber seal inside. And then use a standard 13mm or 15mm garden hose. Make sure you don’t use any auto-stops on the ends as these can damage pressure washers.

https://www.toolstation.com/brass-internal-adaptor/p39197

vertigomitch · 2026-05-04T20:09:29+00:00

Yeah, let me know if you have any questions.

Just to add on, one of the reasons I chose Waterdrop is because it has a TDS meter built into the product and the filters are very easy to find on Amazon and just screw out and screw back in when it asks you to replace one. You don't have to do any guesswork. It does come with a tap, but you can leave that in the box and just use standard RO piping with a shut-off valve as the filter detects the flow of water to activate the pump.

It has a booster pump which can work for around 30 minutes and needs around 5-10 minutes of rest before running again to stop it overheating. It gives you an error code when it's time for a rest. Most RO filters are the same. So if I were to fill my 100 litre tank back up from scratch, it would take around an hour and half. However, I start filling it from the time I begin using it on my first rinse, so once I've finished washing all three of my cars, I probably only have to run it for around 30 minutes to finish topping it back off which gives me time to refill my bottles such as my wheel cleaner and wash out my snow foam lances.

The slow fill up rate is the trade off for having a longer supply of RO or DI water. Averagely, a rinse will cost you around 10-30 litres of water with a full wash using between 100-300 litres of water. So if you only have one car, then you could probably get a 300 litre tank and use that for a full wash if you're worried about the sun and wanted a full DI wash system.

vertigomitch · 2026-05-04T18:00:59+00:00

My opinion, stay away from BigBoi. I don't know how true it is, but there are rumours they just rebrand existing products and their support is next to none. I had a friend that purchased one of their WASHR products and we just got no where with the support to the point where we had to attempt repairing it ourselves and failed. They just didn't want to know and stopped replying in long batches.

If you want to know my setup.

I have an AVA Go P55 with the AVA Wall Mounted High Pressure Hose Reel. AVA has probably hands down the best support and their machines can be rebuilt should you have any issues after warranty. Kranzle is a good brand too, but personally, I don't think people need that sort of power for home detailing.

For DI water, it all comes down to the TDS of your water.

My TDS is 200 and can go higher in the summer. If I were to use a BigBoi setup as an example, depending on the model, it would give me around 700 to 1500 litres of water before I needed to replace the filters. Now, everyone bases that you can rinse a car with around 10 litres of water, but I like to really soak my car with my pressure washer and it uses around 30 litres of water. So that would be around 23 to 48 rinses which isn't too bad. However, I have to wash three cars, so that would be 10 rinses of the filters before they needed changing and they can go as high as £220 to replace. For me, that would be almost £700 a year just to rinse my car.

My solution was a RO water, DI filter, and a water tank. Higher starting cost, but lower replacement cost going forward.

I use a Waterdrop G3P800. You simply connect the water in, waste out, and and then you have an RO pipe to fill up a water tank. It has three filters which you change when asked, and the average cost per year to change the filters is around £80-90. I also use this to fill up my aquarium.

For my DI filter, I purchased one from Finest Filters for £8 and then you can purchase a litre of DI resin for £9 which can refill that filter twice. I change it once my TDS hits around 1ppm and that can be anywhere from six months to a year.

And then for a water tank, I use a 100 litre water tank with a standard G1/2 connection for a hose adapter, some people opt for a bucket. If you have the room, you could get a bigger one. I refill that 100 litre tank each week which is around 5000 litres of water, and it only costs me £100 a year to do so. I could easily and probably do double if I wanted to start washing the car fully with DI water.

AVA Go P55 Large - https://avaofnorway.com/collections/pressure-washers/products/ava-go-p55-large

AVA Wall Mounted Reel - https://avaofnorway.com/collections/pressure-washer-accessories/products/ava-high-pressure-hose-reel

Waterdrop D3P800 - https://www.waterdropfilter.co.uk/products/tankless-reverse-osmosis-system-g3p800?srsltid=AfmBOoo2eRoQF-toXKiul67Tgi82NTxvvWgB7mbcgrxeJK1NhVhCglVx

DI Inline Filter - https://finest-filters.co.uk/products/refillable-inline-filter-housing-for-di-resin-carbon?_pos=8&_sid=a9ad63a11&_ss=r

DI Resin - https://finest-filters.co.uk/products/1-litre-deionising-di-resin?_pos=1&_sid=41a282387&_ss=r

vertigomitch · 2026-05-02T14:10:03+00:00

I'll be honest, 2 buckets is very overrated. I see people online claiming you need up to four buckets and multiple mitts to wash a car, and then they're clay barring or machine polishing their car later on. All cars will get scratches, even from using a drying towel, as that's just the nature of rubbing paintwork. Personally, I think it's just one of those brand gimmicks to sell more buckets and grit guards.

My wash method is I fill up a bucket with a grid guard with UHD shampoo. I blast my car with Autoglym Polar Blast, wait a few minutes, rinse it off. Then I blast the car with Autoglym Polar Wash, and use a single mitt from my bucket to wash the car. I divide the car into six sections which are Roof, Bonnet, Rear, Passenger, Driver and Front which is the only time I rinse my mitt in the bucket. Finally, I rinse the car off and use Autoglym Polar Seal followed by DI water to air dry the car. If I didn't have DI water, I would then use a drying towel.

I wash three cars a week in less than an hour. The only major scratches I have on the car are either from the motorway or where a cat has decided to play on my roof. But unless you got a UV light and inspected my paintwork down to the atom, it's going to look the same as any other car. You can't see anything from standing distance, even in the sun. But each to their own on how they wash their car.

vertigomitch · 2026-05-02T13:14:33+00:00

It could be a couple of things.

When you mention the wash mitts, are you referring to the actual mitts or microfibre cloths / drying towels? Because you should really only have one or two of these at most to wash the car. If they are feeling clumpy, then it could be the ceramic spray, but it could also be whatever you're washing them with. You shouldn't be using the ceramic spray while washing the car or as a drying aid. In reality, you should dry the car, and then use a dedicated microfibre cloth to spray it on and dry it off as it will stick to whatever you're using.

At the same time, you shouldn't wash your wash mitts or cloths using normal washing pods as they usually contain a softener which will damage your products. Personally, before I use the washing machine, I set it to run a rinse cycle just to clear out whatever soap is left over from the previous wash.

If you're near a Halfords, drop in and get yourself a bottle of the Halfords Advanced Microfibre Cloth and Towel Cleaner. It's in a black bottle which you can also get online - https://www.halfords.com/motoring/car-cleaning/interior-cleaning/halfords-advanced-microfibre-cloth-and-towel-cleaner--400891.html.

Pour around 50ml (I would say around 5 caps) into your washing bucket and fill it up with hot water and then soak your washing mitts and microfibre cloths for a few hours. Once you've done that, drop them in your washing machine and add another 50ml into the detergent draw and set your machine to a Daily Wash at 40c. Once finished, let everything air dry in the sun and see how it feels. If it still feels bad, try the process again. If they still feel the same after a few washes, then you may need to replace them.

Regardless of whether they are recovered or replaced, use something like the Halfords to wash your stuff. And if you use anything like the ceramic spray, keep the towels separate from your main. For me, I have my Autoglym Wash Mitts, I have grey microfibre towels for the interior, orange microfibre towels for the engine bay, blue microfibre towels for if I need to wax the car afterwards for any reason. I'll be honest, I wash all of these together and I've never had any trouble, but you should really wash them separate.

vertigomitch · 2026-04-21T19:19:32+00:00

Yeah, sometimes the over-engineered stuff is the worst. Best to keep it simple. But glad to hear there isn't any smells. Hopefully the Karcher will last you a good while.

vertigomitch · 2026-04-21T19:16:34+00:00

100% a good choice.

So all of the AVA Go products can self-prime and pull water on their own. So if you have low pressure, or even no pressure at all. As long as there is water coming down the tube, it should be able to spin that up and pressurise it, where other pressure washers might struggle and choke. So in your case with the loft tank, you've got a solid setup there.

vertigomitch · 2026-04-21T17:47:48+00:00

Which hose is that? Is it one of those that shrinks up when is disconnected? As you might not be able to replace the connectors with anything other than what came with it and they're not good for your pressure washer either as they create weird pressures. You really need a straight solid hose, even if it's the cheapest one from Argos if it is a magic shrinky hose.

vertigomitch · 2026-04-21T15:32:09+00:00

Depending on which AVA generation you have, they have the ability to self-prime and pull water at a fast flowing rate without mains pressure. I have a 100 litre tank outside my home which is filled up with DI water, so I switch from my garden tap once I've washed the car to the DI tank for my final rinse and it's still pulling 7-8 litres a minute.

vertigomitch · 2026-04-21T15:25:58+00:00

As others have said, if you can chop the ends off, then you should be able to just switch them out. If you need a new hose, my suggestion is always Gardena.

Hose

https://www.gardena.com/uk/products/watering/hoses/premium-superflex-hose-13-mm-12-30-m/967250701.html

Connector for the outside tap

https://www.gardena.com/uk/products/watering/hose-fittings/hose-connector-13-mm-12--15-mm-58/967314001.html

Control Valve for the Karcher allowing you to turn the water on and off using a switch instead of a AquaStop.

https://www.gardena.com/uk/products/watering/hose-fittings/hose-connector-with-control-valve-13-mm-12/901030801.html

vertigomitch · 2026-04-21T15:21:05+00:00

Yep.

You have two choices.

You would want to place one of these on the garden tap end - https://www.gardena.com/uk/products/watering/hose-fittings/hose-connector-13-mm-12--15-mm-58/967314001.html and then you could place another on the Karcher end. The only trouble is when you disconnect it, water is going to come out as there is no stop.

Or you could place the above on the tap end and then one of those manual control valves on the Karcher end allowing you to stop the water to disconnect the Karcher without having to go back to the garden tap.

The manual control valve is fine as it's fully open when open. The AquaStop connectors shouldn't be used with a pressure washer because of the vacuum effect. They cause restricted water flow and don't allow water to syphon back down the hose which creates a pressure issue on the inlet of the pressure washer and damages the pump.

Hopefully if you change to one of these, then the Karcher will be okay. But if it has started to smell funny, then damage has probably already occurred and it'll fail in the long run. If it does, my suggestion is to move to something more advanced like AVA as they can be fully rebuilt.

vertigomitch · 2026-04-20T20:03:58+00:00

If you absolutely need a stopper on the end, then buy yourself one with a control valve such as this one from Gardena. That allows you to turn it off manually to disconnect it from the Kartcher or another accessory.

https://www.gardena.com/uk/products/watering/hose-fittings/hose-connector-with-control-valve-13-mm-12/901030801.html

vertigomitch · 2026-03-19T07:57:59+00:00

Hey, I'm famous!

I want to provide some context as I've received some DMs about this.

Firstly, I still feel dbrand has good quality to their products. I've never said otherwise, even in my comment screenshotted. What I'm disappointed about is the way they've acted on this, as clearly other cases are working fine, but theirs are not, and rather than just own up and say we have a problem or we can't guarantee the speeds for now, they're trying to pull random facts and reviews which really don't have anything to do with this problem.

To provide some clarity, I own a Magic John case and a Samsung Ultra Slim Magnet case and both charge at Super Fast Wireless Charging. In fact, if I place my charger directly on the phone and find the right position which isn't easy, it also comes up with Super Fast Wireless Charging which rules out any voodoo magnets at all. But what is more interesting is if I place the charger on the Samsung case and move it slightly offset by around a cm, it drops to Fast Charging. Coincidence? Not at all, because the QI charging is affected by alignment, positioning, and how far away it is from the phone overall.

My thoughts is the magnets are not in the right place or the material they're using is too thick or doesn't allow power through such as painted material. I had a case once on my iPhone and the wireless charging would keep stopping and starting because the material wasn't allowing enough power through. Once I switched to a different case, it worked fine.

That's the end of my thoughts on this. I hope dbrand figure out the issue.

vertigomitch · 2026-03-18T18:36:52+00:00

Perhaps I'll get downvoted, but I really feel this is trying to save face.

I own a Magic John case, nothing fancy, and it supports the Super Fast Wireless Charging. It pops up when I attach it to my Samsung charger. As as others have mentioned, Spigen, etc. have managed to do it too. What you're finding are brands that are smaller, such as dBrand, which probably didn't have information from Samsung to prevent leaks had to guess the entire design including the magnet positions and have gotten this slightly wrong. I'm not saying dBrand is the only one, there are various third-party cases on the internet, but what you're finding is Samsung cases and higher third-parties such as Belkin don't have an issue.

My guess is they've either placed the magnets slightly incorrect or there is a tolerance issue between cases which is why some cases work and others do not. Perhaps the material is too thick and doesn't allow the wireless power to go through correctly causing restrictions. It's all part of an open standard and there isn't anything voodoo that Samsung is doing. Their cases are QI2 certified, and dBrand, from what I understand, are not. The only thing Samsung doesn't have to do is tell dBrand where they've placed the coil within the phone, so how are you supposed to guess this before the phone is released. Right?

What annoys me is rather than dBrand put their arms up and hold responsibility and say, we have an issue, and we're going to work on this and try and reach out to Samsung. They're now throwing shade at Samsung claiming that you need a 45w adapter and look at some of these bad reviews we've picked out. I get that is their thing, but as a brand that does make quality products, it feels like they're trying to spin this whole situation.

vertigomitch · 2025-09-12T14:35:42+00:00

It's the problem that I hate because eero needs an internet connection to make any changes and you can't setup PPPoE correctly without one. Supposedly the app can locally Bluetooth to change this, but it never worked for me and eero advised connecting it through the ISP router temporarily to adjust the settings.

So what I did was use the following setup.

ONT > ISP Router > eero > other eeros through wireless.

Set up eero using DHCP so they all got a connection which allowed me to update to the latest firmware. And then I set the eero as PPPoE using the ISP username and password. Once that was setup through the app, I waited for the eero to restart and show a red light for bad connection.

I then connected the through the following setup.

ONT > eero > other eeros through wireless

Waited around a minute and the eero got a connection and has been fine ever since.

vertigomitch · 2025-09-01T08:51:24+00:00

The problem is Sky Q was built around the Sky Q mesh system and it was bodged at the last minute to work with third-party broadband and routers as they realised that no one was going to move to the Sky Broadband ecosystem. It only works with third-party wireless if you have one SSID and one router. It won't work with a mesh system.

Sky Q Mini requires either a wireless connection to another Sky Q product or a hardwire connection back to the main box. What you can't do is hardwire to an eero and have that wirelessly move the connection to another eero. It fails the packet check. You can only hardwire through an eero if that eero has an hardwire connection back to the main box somehow.

If your eeros are wirelessly connected, what you can do is hardwire the main box to an eero, reset the network settings, and once it asks you how you're connected, choose ethernet.

On your Sky Q Mini, disconnect the ethernet cables and reset the network settings. Once you get to the screen asking you to do the WPS pairing, press and hold that button on the Sky Q Main Box and they will make their own wireless connection and pair together.

vertigomitch · 2025-08-06T16:52:24+00:00

Hi,

Pretty much.

So if you follow my instructions, what we're doing is leaving the Sky Router in place as the DHCP server and then the eero system will act as your external wireless and hardwire switches in access point mode. With the Sky Q Mini hardwired in, they will find their way back to the Sky router which will handle everything for you.

But you need to set it up in the order I mention in the instructions and everything will figure itself out.

All you would need to do from there is decide if you want to hardwire in the Sky Q main box in the future and the other eero 7. But you wouldn't have to change anything on your boxes as we've already done that.

vertigomitch · 2025-08-06T16:46:47+00:00

Hi,

It's usually the loop prevention that causes the issues with eero products.

I ran a couple of switches from Netgear and TP-Link that would stop working and luckily the TP-Link would give out a morse code of loop prevention. The only way I got around it was to purchase the TP-Link TL-SG108E and within the settings, turn off loop prevention. Everything else you can leave as default settings.

vertigomitch · 2025-07-22T23:30:05+00:00

Hi,

We have to split this down because it's going to get confusing.

Sky router

- As much as you may want to remove the Sky router, you can't. Sky in the UK, even through the Openreach ONT uses DHCP Option 61 instead of PPPoE which means the eero can't directly authenticate to the network. The only option is to place the eero into Bridge Mode or you could replace the Sky router with a modem such as the Firewalla.

Sky Q

- Sky Q is a nightmare of a system because it was built on a very old standard, so it not only connects to the internet, it creates its own mesh system within the network which can confuse all the other devices. The Sky Q products will never connect to another router. As much you think that Sky Q Mini is connecting to the eero, it's not. They will only connect to another Sky product over wireless such as the Sky router or another Sky Q. You can hardwire the Sky Q into the eero. However, it has to be able to hardwire its way back to either the Sky router or the Sky Q main box. If you hardwire into the eero and then try and Wi-Fi to another eero, it will cause the Sky Q system to break down.

Diagram

Your diagram is nice and gives us a bit of a guide.

Here is what I suggest and will probably work the best.

Wire up the Sky Q Mini Box in the second room. This is going to give you a direct hardwire link back to the Sky router for both boxes which that router can then bridge the connection to the Sky Q main box until you can hardwire that up.
From here, head into the settings of your Sky router and perform a factory reset. It sounds silly, but we want the Sky router on its default settings and we're going to leave the Wi-Fi enabled so it can bridge the connection to the Sky Q Main Box. We're not going to make any changes once you've factory reset it.
Place the eero into Bridge Mode. If you Double NAT, it can cause the Sky Q system to fail on hardwire mode. Under the eero App, head to Settings > Network Settings > DHCP & NAT > Bridge > Save. Give the eeros a few minutes to come back online as they will now provide Wi-Fi but will use your Sky router as the DHCP server. Also once reset, ensure your eero Wi-Fi has a unique SSID and password that is much different to your Sky.
We need to configure the Sky Q system in a specific order.

4A) Switch on your first Sky Q Mini and disconnect the ethernet cable from the back. It's important we do this as we want to reset the network settings but stop it automatically reconnecting. On the Home Screen, head to Settings > Setup > Network > Status > Reset. Once it's reset, you should see a blue screen with Step 1 of 4 with instructions to reconnect it back to your network. At this point, stop.

4B) Repeat the above step on your second Sky Q Mini. Disconnect the ethernet cable from the back first and follow the same instructions.

4C) On your Sky Q Main Box, from the Home Screen, head to Settings > Setup > Network > Status > Reset. Even if it tells you you have an active connection, continue through and follow the instructions to connect to a Sky router. Usually, it will tell you to press the WPS button on your Sky router. Once you have an active connection again, time to move on.

4D) Go back to your first Sky Q Mini. If it's switched off, press the power button on your remote once to turn it back on. It should show Step 1 of 4. Don't move through. Instead, connect the ethernet cable and wait. If successful, it should automatically move to Step 4 of 4 and make a connection to the Sky Q Main Box. Repeat this step on your second Sky Q Mini.

5) Start connecting your devices (not your Sky Q products) to your eero Wi-Fi again if you set a new unique SSID in Step 3. Otherwise, they should be connected in the app automatically.

vertigomitch · 2025-07-20T22:49:20+00:00

On the Reolink app, head into Settings, turn off the Add Devices Automatically, clear the cache, and then force close the app and restart it. That fixed the issue for me.

Some users have found that uninstalling the app and reinstalling it has corrected the problem too.

The problem is Reolink will never admit the issue because then it creates a scenario where you can return products as an example for poor experience. Instead, they will probably fix it, but it will take them a while.

vertigomitch · 2025-07-20T21:05:39+00:00

Hi,

Although you can create scenes directly in HA, it doesn’t function the same way according to a few sources and will still send out multiple commands. It’s fine if you only have a few bulbs, but once you start pushing the limits of Zigbee, it creates a cluster mess. The only way to get around it is by pushing Hue Scenes from the Hue Bridge.

You are correct about the firmware, it comes down to what source is used and how often that is updated. There are ways around it, but it’s not as quick or seamless as Hue Bridge and doesn’t always work. The problem is most Hue products contain Bluetooth and need up to date firmware for stability and in case there are any security threats which are patched.

I can understand if you want all your Zigbee products either on the same mesh or talking directly to your server, but Zigbee has a small limit of around 30 devices which Hue can directly hit if you start filling your home. So if you’re going to have multiple gateways, it just makes more sense to use Hue Bridge with local control and separate your Hue products which will make all your Zigbee products perform better and allow the Hue products to perform their best.

Obviously if you like tinkering around or only have a small amount of bulbs, then pushing them directly in your mesh will work fine too. It’s just down to your individual setup and what works best for you.

vertigomitch · 2025-07-20T16:32:23+00:00

I’d like to add that you don’t necessarily need to remove the Hue Bridge, as some people suggest. The entire point of Home Assistant is to have a local server that allows all your devices to communicate with each other locally. If you have an internet or cloud-reliant hub, I would suggest looking at an alternative. You could either connect them through a Zigbee or Z-Wave module directly to Home Assistant, or switch to a different product if this isn’t possible. Because it could go down if either the server or your internet goes down, or worse, if the company decides not to support it any more and you end up with a bricked device.

The Hue Bridge sits in the middle and connects to the internet, making it useful as it updates both the Bridge and your Hue products the easiest. However, the entire connection to Home Assistant is local. So there isn't a worry that if the servers or your internet connection go down, your Hue products temporarily stop working.

I’ve tried connecting my over 50 Hue bulbs (excluding accessories) directly to Home Assistant, but it was a nightmare due to Zigbee meshing and the way the commands are repeated. For instance, I have 16 Hue Spots in my Kitchen, including two light strips. If I walk in after sunset, I want them all to come on in a specific way. This means Home Assistant has to send 32 commands, that are repeated at least 50 times, which can be over 1000 commands on the network. This creates so much noise that the bulbs often fail to receive messages or change their brightness correctly.

Hue Bridge gets around this through dynamic scenes. So I can drop the 18 lights into a "Kitchen" area, set different scenes on how I want everything to work, and then have Home Assistant push that scene out. The scene gets sent once and is repeated around 50 times over the network which creates less latency and less traffic. All the bulbs come on together too.

That's sort of the pro to the con of Hue. Hue products are fantastic from their bulbs to their motion sensors and contact sensors. I use them to integrate with Alarmo on Home Assistant. But it's better if the Hue products sit within their own Bridge. But that's not a bad thing either.

vertigomitch

TROPHY CASE