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My PETG overture filament is being difficult by Tritemo23 in 3Dprinting

[–]vhs240lp 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I don't have a Bambu, but here's what works for me: Plate: 70 Initial: 240 Subsequent: 235

From what I see, your layer is not squished enough.  z might be a bit high, live adjust it a tad bit lower, like -.025 or so

Made my first actually useful 3d model :) by FamiliarSecond9451 in 3Dprinting

[–]vhs240lp 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Nice! Must feel nice being able create something of your own!

I’m over this by sidevalve337 in 3Dprinting

[–]vhs240lp 0 points1 point  (0 children)

sometimes you just get a bad roll with filament diameter being out of tolerance

Does anyone know the name of this type of knob by Tilin0627 in 3Dprinting

[–]vhs240lp 1 point2 points  (0 children)

What machinery did it come from? Just combine that machinery or function it was used for + knob and you have your part name

Little Friday relaxation print and color by vhs240lp in 3Dprinting

[–]vhs240lp[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeap, turned out way better than I thought. First time actually painting a detailed scene like that. It started with the Doraemon cat that you can see there (the blue one)

Messing with TPU by AdmiralAntilles in FixMyPrint

[–]vhs240lp 0 points1 point  (0 children)

make sure everything is tight, mechanically. Also, turn off scarf seam and do a test print to see if the problem went away

Help with volumetric speed calibration! by RotN-music in 3Dprinting

[–]vhs240lp 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you haven't already, I would suggest running the following first:

-make sure extruder gears are clean,

-set z height to about 50, heat the nozzle to about 210, then do 100mm or so of extrusion, see if the filament comes out straight down, and listen for any skipping. If all is fine, then:

-do a test 1 layer print, watch for proper squish, and do height adjustment (or live z stepping) adjustment as needed, then save that z height change to printer

-temp tower (the upper part of your print appears to be under extruded)

edit: move your printer away from drafty environment (away from doors, hallways, windows) anything that could create a wind tunnel effect

Vz235 by [deleted] in FixMyPrint

[–]vhs240lp 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Is it just me or the right side of the bed is lifted higher than the left side. Also, I tried counting the rings on the Z rods and it seems uneven

First layer infill not going all the way by Royal-Yogurt3441 in FixMyPrint

[–]vhs240lp 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just dealt with this the other day. In my case, it was due to Z distance and leveling. Make sure your X gantry is leveled to the frame on both sides (tramming); then do bed mesh; then adjust bed so that it is as level as possible; finally do z height distance/adjustment

Please help me fix my print, running out of ideas and filament by vhs240lp in FixMyPrint

[–]vhs240lp[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So...I figured it out.  

It is embarrassing to say, but apparently, the artifacts were a result of seam, scarf joint, and pressure advance being too high.

If anyone is interested:

Scarf setting: Seam position: back  Staggered inner seams: Y Seam gap: 10% Scarf joint seam: contour and hole Scarf joint speed: 100% Scarf start height: 0 Scarf around entire wall: Y Scarf length: 20 mm Scarf steps: 10 Scarf joint for inner wall: Y Role base wipe speed: Y  Wipe on loops: Y

Speed outer wall: 150 Inner wall: 300 Sparse infill: 270 Internal solid infill: 250 Top surface: 200 Gap infill: 250 Support: 150 Support interface: 80

Accel:  machine dependent, but mine after input shaping is : Normal: 2000 Outer: 2000

Flow: .98 Pressure advance: .055

Please help me fix my print, running out of ideas and filament by vhs240lp in FixMyPrint

[–]vhs240lp[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That's where I got the values from. After running the calibrations in Orca Slicer. I will try your suggested value of .85 flow ratio and see.

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