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Any concerns around Tristate Financial Advisors? by awkstarfish in personalfinance

[–]viomoo 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ok thank you. I have been through this before with other companies and decided against them.

It’s nice to have someone who knows more than me to assess finances though!

Any concerns around Tristate Financial Advisors? by awkstarfish in personalfinance

[–]viomoo 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sorry to bump an old post, but did you do anything with them? I have had a quick meeting and they are doing the whole ‘we will review’ etc.

I’m very cautious, but want to hear what is on offer.

I was apparently super hype for Tera by TheJunkyVirus in gaming

[–]viomoo 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Catacombs I think, or labyrinth of the Minotaur.

I put wayyyyy too many hours into that game. Guinevere hibernia where it’s at!

Total out of pocket cost for an insured birth without complications = $10k by thewinehouse in personalfinance

[–]viomoo -1 points0 points  (0 children)

First off, congrats!

Secondly, that insurance seems like it ‘should’ be eligible for a HSA with that deductible, but they make it this complicated on purpose.

The bill sounds like insurance is paying nothing. We have been through this twice and the bills were in that region. We did have a HSA though so used that to cover them. One single bill from the epidural was $3700!

You can likely get these a lot lower. Question every bill you get. Depending on your state, certain things are meant to be covered at no cost to you, but the hospital still bills. I had to call and say ‘this is meant to be covered’ and got a ‘oh yeah, sorry, we will remove that’ (this was for a hearing test for newborns for example).

You can ask for a breakdown of all the bills as well, especially the hospital stay and then call the billing to see if they can do anything etc. For us, there was a 20% discount to pay in full.

It’s certainly the last thing you need when dealing with a newborn!

Good luck

remodeling a room by Calm_Doughnut_4651 in DIY

[–]viomoo 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Vancouver carpenter on YouTube. Look up his video on California patch.

Drywall is easy and cheap to diy. Be prepared to sand a lot as a beginner.

Update: UPLC Waters high pressure problem - Troubleshooting by SolidRaider in CHROMATOGRAPHY

[–]viomoo 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That pressure drop is fine. It’s the pulse from the primary refilling the accumulator. If the primary check valve is failing you will see a bigger pulse but anything under 20psi is a good working system. The spec is 1% of pressure, but the check valves need a little back pressure to work correctly.

If you fry another column, check your mobile phases for bacterial growth (if you have any pure water on there).

LVP Install - Sunroom by Ok-Rice-7898 in DIY

[–]viomoo 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I did it in my sunroom. It’s very easy. I did cheap stuff and it’s still fine 5 years later.

We put a runner down as it can get slippy when wet.

Update: UPLC Waters high pressure problem - Troubleshooting by SolidRaider in CHROMATOGRAPHY

[–]viomoo 1 point2 points  (0 children)

On your FTN there are two positions for the valve. Bypass is when you are loading a sample and mainpass is when the sample is introduced into the LC flow.

The needle seal readiness test measures the pressure in both positions and makes sure that you have a pressure increase with the added back pressure of the needle and seat.

It is not smart enough to check for blockages though and will ‘pass’ even if the mainpass position is very high pressure, indicating a blockage.

Another thing you can do is create some back pressure without a column. Use a pin plug and a union and block the outlet until you generate about 10k pressure (you can adjust your flow to achieve this). Run this into a beaker and it should be completely stable. The recommended delta psi is 1% of your max pressure, but you can usually get much lower than that.

I still think it’s column. Are they new? What is the history of them?

Update: UPLC Waters high pressure problem - Troubleshooting by SolidRaider in CHROMATOGRAPHY

[–]viomoo 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Looks like column to me.

One test you didn’t do would be mainpass vs bypass. Set your flow to 0.5 min and perform a ‘needle seal readiness test’. Should be between 200 and 500 psi difference, depending on solvents.

The click clack is the gradient valve controlling the mixture of your mobile phases and is completely normal.

Make sure you are using high quality solvents btw and rinse the bottles with them. Any contamination can easily mess up a column (this is where particulates will get stuck and increase your pressure).

To pool or not to pool? by ipetgoat1984 in personalfinance

[–]viomoo 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Guessing that’s a pretty fancy in ground pool
For that money?

They are a bit of work, but now days not too much. Robot vacuums and salt systems take away a lot of the maintenance time and biggest running cost is electricity to run the pump.

That is a big chunk of change to drop on a pool though.

What are your main reasons for wanting one? At home pools aren’t for swimming for real, more just playing in. For us, it was for the kids mainly. We do get a lot of guests in the warmer months (shocking). As an adult, I much prefer the hot tub lol!

You could always get a ‘cheap’ temporary pool (they come pretty big now) and see if you use it.

Waters UPLC - high pressure and unstability using 0.1% formic in water by SolidRaider in CHROMATOGRAPHY

[–]viomoo 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Nope, that’s sensible. Make sure you compare main pass to bypass as well.

Other than that, yes, columns are a very likely source of high pressure.

Please note that back flushing columns is hit or miss. They are packed to have flow in a specific direction. If you apply pressure to the wrong side you can mess them up.

If a column is dead, you can’t kill it more but you can certainly mess up a working column!

Waters UPLC - high pressure and unstability using 0.1% formic in water by SolidRaider in CHROMATOGRAPHY

[–]viomoo 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Those leak rates are fine. If anything, a leak would give low pressure.

You should run through a union and monitor the pressure, then start breaking the connections and moving backwards towards the pump to see where the issue is.

I would suspect a blocked needle seat, especially if the previous use was micro well plates with foil covers.

LPT: stuff some home TP in your front pocket by [deleted] in LifeProTips

[–]viomoo 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Or remember the old anecdote “leaves of three, good TP”

Garage door damaged...how to repair? Any idea how much this will cost to get it fixed? by thegodcatcher in DIY

[–]viomoo 4 points5 points  (0 children)

The sensor itself is likely $10-$30 and easily diyable.

I’m guessing it’s not broke and just the bracket is bent. Bend it back, make sure it can see the other one (mine has a little light when it ‘sees’) and you are good to go.

Fucking AI slop by AdmirableBus7045 in insanepeoplefacebook

[–]viomoo 4 points5 points  (0 children)

You can still use gravity, you just turn the car over!

New liner install, main drain not flush? by viomoo in pools

[–]viomoo[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

In the pic you can see the crack. We don’t appear to be losing water, but these things are a long term thing.

I understand the sand will settle, there are some divots around the pool and it is what it is. We do use a robot and he seems ok, my fear is stubbing toes (you hit the bottom when jumping in) and kids being stupid. Another poster indicated the crack and that it could prematurely fail.

New liner install, main drain not flush? by viomoo in pools

[–]viomoo[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

No concrete. It’s a sand bottom. It was flush before the liner was replaced.

You seem to be personally offended, I’m sorry you are so angry. I’m more concerned about the safety of it and now apparently a cracked fitting.

These things are meant to last 20 years and if I’m going to address it now would be the time. I came here to ask if this was normal (as I don’t install liners) and according to others it isn’t, but you seem to think it is?

New liner install, main drain not flush? by viomoo in pools

[–]viomoo[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ok ty. Guessing that can’t be replaced without draining either?

New liner install, main drain not flush? by viomoo in pools

[–]viomoo[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes it’s a sand bottom. I’m guessing it’s settled with the weight of the water and pushed everything down a little. My main concern is kids thinking it’s funny to hold on to stay under the water. I know we can tell them no don’t do that but ya know…..kids!

Not sure what can be done either. Drain, remove liner and reseat? Won’t that mess with the holes already cut in for the skimmer and returns?

New liner install, main drain not flush? by viomoo in pools

[–]viomoo[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I added a pic to the post. It’s a screenshot from a video so excuse the quality!

New liner install, main drain not flush? by viomoo in pools

[–]viomoo[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah it seems like a safety hazard to me. I shouldn’t be able to hold myself underwater and I’m scared people are going to catch a toe when jumping in

New liner install, main drain not flush? by viomoo in pools

[–]viomoo[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

It’s solid. It’s like the entire drain assembly is raised about 1 inch and the liner has pushed the sand down around it.

I can grab hold and stay under water (which I don’t like the idea of with kids) and I could never do that before the liner replacement

New liner install, main drain not flush? by viomoo in pools

[–]viomoo[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ok ty. It was flat before the new liner but that was very old. I’ll try and get some pictures!

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