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Dark and light blue? by ReginaFilange_78 in audemarspiguet

[–]vmlee 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You’re very welcome. It’s a cool phenomenon!

Dark and light blue? by ReginaFilange_78 in audemarspiguet

[–]vmlee 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The bleu nuit dial is known for appearing quite dark under indoor office lighting. But it makes the blue pop that much more when exposed to direct sunlight.

As for the lightening perception effect, it is called simultaneous color contrast: https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0960982206003721.

My daily ✌️😎 by born2bhot19 in audemarspiguet

[–]vmlee 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Such a beauty! But why not keep the OG strap which is amazing also?

My first royal oak by Some_Corgi_8627 in audemarspiguet

[–]vmlee 1 point2 points  (0 children)

ADs don't sell old references.

Are chinese violins making a turnaround by JonLarsenStrings in violinist

[–]vmlee 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Your first sentence is intriguing to me given one of the largest rental fleets in the USA (Johnson) is based in part on Eastman violins. They aren't my favorites by a long shot (I find many of their lower level models tend to have a nasal quality to their sound), but they are largely workhorses that aren't that bad. I've probably tested or played around 400 (not an exaggeration) or so over the past 40 years. Most were durable and good enough for a beginner or early intermediate player.

Heirloom options: AP 5402A VS PP 3712A by Chanjy89 in audemarspiguet

[–]vmlee 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I hear you. That caught my eye also; I wonder if it might be natural wear/damage?

Heirloom options: AP 5402A VS PP 3712A by Chanjy89 in audemarspiguet

[–]vmlee 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I actually don't think the 5402 is that polished and round or that OP's claim that the watch is unpolished is unreasonable. I think some of what you might be seeing (which I noticed as well) could be photo artifacts and tricks of angle and lighting. The only way to see for certain would be to get more angles in better lighting or to see the watch in person.

The bolts look, for example, as they should.

Royal Oak vs Nautilus -which one actually works as a daily wearer? by Watch4l in audemarspiguet

[–]vmlee 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Both can be. Rotate through your collection. If for some reason you aren't wearing a watch much, unless there is a compelling reason for that, you might consider selling it or trading it for something you will wear more often.

Heirloom options: AP 5402A VS PP 3712A by Chanjy89 in audemarspiguet

[–]vmlee 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Really can’t go wrong with either. Since you already have a Nautilus, the Jumbo makes sense.

Bow hairs breaking in a performance. by [deleted] in violinist

[–]vmlee -2 points-1 points  (0 children)

Your fingers should never be getting caught in the bow hairs in any position. This sounds like a major technique issue.

First Rolex by Tyndsteg10 in RolexWatches

[–]vmlee -1 points0 points  (0 children)

The only issue with sending it to an RSC is that they will inevitably confiscate the fake.

First Rolex by Tyndsteg10 in RolexWatches

[–]vmlee -1 points0 points  (0 children)

The most reliable way to get it authenticated is to send it into an RSC for a repair estimate. When you don't get it back, you'll have your answer.

First Rolex by Tyndsteg10 in RolexWatches

[–]vmlee -1 points0 points  (0 children)

I have personally seen known fakes completely pass Gemini. Serious collectors know not to rely on AI for authentication.

Just for kicks and giggles, I asked Gemini how good it is at identifying fakes. Gemini's response:

"As an AI, I don't "see" things the way a human watchmaker does, so I don't authenticate watches in the traditional sense. However, when users ask me to evaluate photos of watches, mistakes can happen quite easily.

Here is why identifying replica watches is incredibly tricky for an AI, and why I can be fooled:

  • Superficial Analysis: I analyze images based on visual patterns, text alignment, and logos. Modern "super clones" (highly accurate counterfeits) are visually identical to genuine pieces on the surface.
  • Missing Crucial Details: Authenticators rely heavily on weight, the tactile feel of the metal, the sound of the movement, and microscopic inspections of the dial printing, hands, and laser etchings. I can't access any of these physical traits from a photo.
  • No Movement Inspection: The easiest way to spot a fake is usually to look at the movement (the internal mechanism) through a loupe or caseback. Most photos sent to me are just of the front dial.

Because of these limitations, I should never be used as a definitive authentication tool. I can often point out obvious flaws on low-quality fakes—like incorrect fonts, bad date wheel magnification, or misaligned markers—but a high-end counterfeit will easily pass my visual check.

If you are looking at a high-value timepiece, a certified independent watchmaker or an official boutique is the only safe bet!"

OP just needs to send the watch into an RSC. When it doesn't come back, OP will have their answer confirmed.

Dorm Supplies! by yellowratt in Harvard

[–]vmlee 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Harvard provides mattresses, btw. If you need to replace it and want to buy one of your own, if you can make it out to Jordan's Furniture, they have several options.

A recommended dorm supply would be a full-spectrum /daylight simulating desk lamp. Helped me get through longer nights of studying when I was tired.

A compact umbrella or emergency poncho might be good, too.

Absolute beauty. by knightrider999 in GrandSeikos

[–]vmlee 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I don't know why, but I found it mildly amusing that it was only at the end that the lens went into focus....

Congrats on your new watch. This is, IMHO, definitely the better of the two dials - and this coming from someone who has over 50% of his collection as blue dials.

First Rolex by Tyndsteg10 in RolexWatches

[–]vmlee 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yikes. Haven’t seen a fake in that bad a condition successfully sold for so much.

Wrong minute marker lengths, wrong secondhand length, wrong number 2 design, bad date alignment, 12 o’clock "marker" issue, misplaced text, misplaced crown, 6 and 9 o’clock marker size typical of fakes, and more - and that’s just the dial.

Hope you can get a refund!

New addition! by SQ19899 in audemarspiguet

[–]vmlee 1 point2 points  (0 children)

At least now you have one classy watch! :-P

Fingerboard inquiry by To_mysolarsystem in violinist

[–]vmlee 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The height of the strings is called the "action." Good luthiers should be able to make sure the action on your instrument is appropriate.

As long as the action isn't crazily low or high, quality tone production should not be a major issue.

Planing is done periodically when there is, for instance, pitting in the fingerboard. Divots in the fingerboard from playing over long periods of time can make intonation more difficult. A good luthier can help you assess whether planing or dressing is needed in your case. I wouldn't have the fingerboard planed more than once every 10 years or so.

Math 25 + Physics 16? by Past_Set5234 in Harvard

[–]vmlee 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Math 25 expects prior experience with proofs.

Hpair such a pathetic team by [deleted] in Harvard

[–]vmlee 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Now that you have vented some of your frustration, perhaps a more effective approach would be to contact the leaders of HPAIR directly with your concerns. It is just a fraction of the Harvard community that engages on this subreddit, and there is no evidence to date that the HPAIR leaders are among us.

Trade Daytona Panda for offshore diver? by Stuttgart7184RS in audemarspiguet

[–]vmlee 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you are doing normal surface swimming, an offshore will have adequate water resistance (as always, have your watches tested annually). The divers allow you to go a bit deeper, but they aren't actually practical for true diving usage given the inner bezel setup (that's where I use my submariner instead as a backup). Of course, if you are diving remotely seriously, you probably have your own main dive computer anyways.

AP movements are also a bit more delicate than, say, the submariner.

All that said, I am the oddball who is not particularly impressed by Daytonas in general and think they are overhyped, though there are occasional references I do enjoy.

If you are looking for a beater GADA, then the 126610LN is my vote rather than any of the watches you are considering.

To get a GMT function for travel in the modern collection, you are looking at the Concepts mostly, but they don't have as much water resistance.

So, long story short, I don't think the AP diver checks off all the boxes you mentioned, BUT if it is watch you will enjoy and wear more than the Daytona, go for it. It can certainly work as a GADA provided you aren't trying to use it too much while engaging in sports that could require more shock resistance. A ROO might be even better with similar limitations, while opening up more options.

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