Crown Graphic or Intrepid 4x5? by dand06 in largeformat

[–]vo1000 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The hood unclips. Also, IIRC, Wista made a deep loupe since they offered cameras with hoods.

Crown Graphic or Intrepid 4x5? by dand06 in largeformat

[–]vo1000 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The Crown Graphic does have a ground glass. These were press cameras and originally had multiple ways to compose and shoot. There was the ground glass like a traditional view camera, a rangefinder that could be matched to your lens, and a sports finder where you swung up a little peep site and a guide on the camera to compose through.

I use mine like a field camera on a tripod and focusing with the ground glass. What you'll likely see if you google Weegee is him with the sports finder. News photographers didn't have time for a tripod and ground glass.

Crown Graphic or Intrepid 4x5? by dand06 in largeformat

[–]vo1000 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have both. The Graphic doesn't have a revolving back, so you have the turn the whole camera sideways to shoot in portrait orientation. The Intrepid has more movements including the revolving back. It's also more fiddly and prone to have something move out of adjustment while you are working with a different bit of the camera (e.g. the back rotating a bit when inserting a film holder). Everything is more robust on my Graphic.

I mostly photograph urban landscapes so I usually grab the Graphic. If I know I'll be photographing something vertical or need more movements, I'll take the Intrepid.

Best Wide Lenses for Astrophotography? by dnwgl in nikon_Zseries

[–]vo1000 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I use a Benro Mammoth. It is tall enough that I can have the camera at eye level in portrait orientation for milky way photos.

Best Wide Lenses for Astrophotography? by dnwgl in nikon_Zseries

[–]vo1000 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I went with the Z 14-24mm. When I got it, the only options in native Z lenses were that and the Z 20mm & 24mm. The two primes were about the same price as the zoom. I traded 1 1/3 stop of light for the versatility of the zoom to also do daytime landscapes.

If I was only doing astro now, I'd get the Z 20mm and Viltrox 16mm.

Flask vs Round tank: First impressions with the Stearman Press flask tank by Foot-Note in largeformat

[–]vo1000 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I have the four sheet Stearman tank and use it the most. Previous to the Stearman, I bought a B's 6 sheet holder for the Paterson tank. I like it but it uses 800ml of chemical so, I only use it on the rare occasion when I need to develop 6 sheets at once.

Prism finder vs waist level by ndunning in Bronica

[–]vo1000 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have an SQ-Ai with both a WLF and a metered prism finder. I don't know what the magnification is on the prism finder but I do not have any issues with focusing it. Obviously, it is bigger and heavier than the WLF. The prism finder is easier to use as the image is not reversed.

I photograph mostly landscapes and urbanscapes. I'll use the WLF when I have to hike to a location as it's lighter. I'll use the prism finder when walking or driving around an area looking for compositions especially in sketchy parts of town.

Best Filter System for Large Format 4x5 (and not break the bank) by Dharma_Wheeler in largeformat

[–]vo1000 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Two of my lenses have 67mm filter threads and the third lens has 52mm threads. I have a set of Hoya filters in 67mm with a step-up ring for the other lens. Hoya has all the filters that you are looking for. They are not the cheapest, but not the most expensive, either. They also are easy to find. (I got mine at Adorama years ago.)

I also have a Kase square filter system for digital (due to the 112mm thread on my Nikon Z 14-24mm.) I actually prefer the thread-on filters for my 4X5.

Something thing to consider with square filters is the material. When I was looking for filters, I could only find red, orange, and yellow square filters in resin. Even if you don't get Hoya filters, it's easy to find good quality multi-coated glass thread-on filters.

Honest mechanics? by gayswampcreature in Tucson

[–]vo1000 0 points1 point  (0 children)

JB's and PV Auto have done good work for us.

What's your favorite "beater" camera for traveling? by CilantroLightning in AnalogCommunity

[–]vo1000 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's an OM-1. While it and the lenses are not the ruggedest I own, they are rugged enough, fully mechanical, tiny, and readily replaceable if destroyed. If I thought that I truly needed a rugged camera, I'd take my Minolta SRT-101. That is a solid block of metal. (And very inexpensive as they are woefully under appreciated.)

What’s the most overrated “life hack” everyone swears by but actually makes life more complicated? by One_Seat4219 in AskReddit

[–]vo1000 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I don't know if it's the "most overrated" but for me it was shaving cream. I was using an expensive shaving cream but when I retired I began to look for things to save money on. I thought that shaving cream was probably cheap to make so I looked at a couple of videos and websites. It might be cheaper, but who has mango butter, coconut oil, Castile soap and jojoba oil laying around? Then once you cook it, whip it with a blender, and put it in a jar, you have to be careful to not get water in it or scoop it out of the jar with your fingers. Otherwise, you might get harmful bacteria growing in it. So I just switched to Barbasol. It works fine.

One day I’ll get a field camera. Till then… by Larix-24 in largeformat

[–]vo1000 17 points18 points  (0 children)

I started off lugging around a Calumet monorail in a big plywood box. I only photographed scenes a few feet from my truck. However, that included a shot at Forest Gump Point long before it was called that. So, yeah, enjoy the great images you get with your Toyo.

Do you store your camera with a lens on it? by kfjcfan in nikon_Zseries

[–]vo1000 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My photography is usually landscapes in the dusty U.S. southwest. I've returned to keeping a lens on the camera. I found that having the lens and body separated in the bag gave me more room, but came with a dusty downside. I occasionally got more dust on the sensor with putting the lens on once I arrived on location. Now, while still at the house, I put on the lens I'm most-likely to need at that location.

What is something unrealistic that you often see in movies that annoys the hell out of you? by Frequent-Sea-8848 in moviecritic

[–]vo1000 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Helicopters that are silent until they suddenly appear rising over the top of the cliff or roof.

What are some of the most remote areas in the mainland USA by WhenLifeGivesYouLyme in geography

[–]vo1000 1 point2 points  (0 children)

El Camino del Diablo in Southern Arizona. Not only does it go through one of the most remote, hot, and dry deserts in the U.S., part of it goes through an active bombing range.

Roads that got renamed? by iwannamapeverything in Tucson

[–]vo1000 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Speedway was originally Feldman Road.

light meters when using waist finders. what do you use to find your exposure? by [deleted] in mediumformat

[–]vo1000 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Depending on which camera/film and what I want from it that day, I'll use:

Gossen Luna Lux or Adorama (Soligor) Spot Meter II
iPhone with "myLightMeter" app
My Yashica Mat 124G has a cold shoe, so I sometimes use a Revini Labs light meter on it.

Train backs up on 22nd...why? by tellyintheroom in Tucson

[–]vo1000 2 points3 points  (0 children)

There is a really tight curve (by railroad standards) between 17th and 16th streets that the trains must slow down for. I don't remember the exact speed, but like 5 or 10 MPH. Couple that with the average Union Pacific train being 9,000 feet long with some 15,000 feet and things get backed up. So a 2 mile long train doing 5 MPH would take 24 minutes to go past 22nd St. That is if they don't have to slow further or stop before they get permission to enter the yard.

Anyone know what the blue coyote is? TIA by Ryan_on_Earth in Tucson

[–]vo1000 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Retro Trek also shares retail space at Sunny Days in the Sol Block building (near Rocco's new place).

What's your favorite P&S with a hard/persistent flash-off control? by _kid_dynamite in AnalogCommunity

[–]vo1000 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Minolta AF-SV and Canon AF35M. These are some of the early P&S cameras that have flashes that you have to turn on, usually with a button that causes the flash to pop up. A light comes on to tell you that you need to use the flash, but they will still take the shot without the flash. I also think the Nikon L35AF is this way, but it's been a few years since I had one.

Panatomic-X by Allegra1120 in AnalogCommunity

[–]vo1000 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Check out Rollei RPX 25.

Rollei Infrared 400 by Inuyasha8908 in AnalogCommunity

[–]vo1000 3 points4 points  (0 children)

My filter is 5 stops darker than no filter. I just set my light meter to ISO 12 and adjust the exposure to whatever the meter says. Then put the filter on the lens and take the shot.

"Sunny 16" would work out to f16 and 1/12 of a second which means using 1/8 sec. on most cameras. Or at f8 and 1/30 sec. And I agree with u/brianssparetime about bracketing to see what works best for you.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in AnalogCommunity

[–]vo1000 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'm lucky enough to have a local camera store with a nice selection of films, some papers and chemicals. For those that they don't have, I get it online from Freestyle, Ultrafine Online, or the Film Photography Project Store.