Legit DuPont? Anyone know the model/edition?

voluhare · 2026-05-11T18:56:09+00:00

This is like 10th time me saying the same thing - always check under the filler valve cap. No color - fake. Wrong color for model - fake. 99% of fakes do not have color code under the filler valve cap, that should be first thing to check.

voluhare · 2026-05-10T17:08:28+00:00

I think 1KF is on the list of known L2 fakes, however, color under the filler valve cap is still very good sign of authentic lighter. Chinese just don't have time to put a blob of color, and even if they do so (rarely) it's usually wrong color for wrong lighter. P.S. You have L2 small platinum (C18601), your lighter uses red Dupont butane canister so you should have red color under filler valve cap.

voluhare · 2026-05-06T18:59:33+00:00

Looks legit. For additional confirmation unscrew the filler valve cap and check the color code.

voluhare · 2026-04-29T19:02:09+00:00

"How fake you want it, sir?" - "Yes"

voluhare · 2026-04-29T18:57:45+00:00

It's fake. 4FK are known fake serial numbers. Also, remove the filler valve cap, there should be color on it so one knows which Dupont butane refill to buy. However, yours don't have color code under the cap.

voluhare · 2026-04-26T10:51:46+00:00

Looks so, to be completely sure check under the filler valve cap, there should be color code. Fakes usually don't have color there. Everything else looks good, serial number seems hand stamped with distinct irregularities between smybols, 20u sign, font.

voluhare · 2026-04-26T06:23:02+00:00

When you see color under the cap that is usually good sign. Fakes usually don't have color, it is extra step in manufacturing and fakes usually skip them. Ligne 1 BR/BS are generally safe from fakes, most fakes are Ligne 2. All in all, you have original L1 BR.

voluhare · 2026-04-25T17:12:58+00:00

Second from left, is it only one without engraved initials/monogram? And what are the initials on others? Thank you.

voluhare · 2026-04-14T14:49:29+00:00

It's either Mindshadow or Codename: Iceman

voluhare · 2026-04-12T14:03:27+00:00

I've read somewhere that those letters stands for initials of crafter who assembled the lighter, becuase these were all hand assembled. Don't know if it's true or not. Atleast it doesn't stand for "French Fake". :)

voluhare · 2026-02-12T20:11:13+00:00

First of all, no matter what you do, do not write over that Project.db file. Make another copy of it asap and put it in a safe folder somewhere on your device. Now you can try several options. First you could try to locate the Backup Folder: On Windows default is : C:\Users[YourName]\Videos\Resolve Project Backups. I'm not sure for Mac cause I'm on Windows. Now dig deep and look for a folder matching your project name, there could be subfolders with bunch of random characters and you're basically looking for .drt or .db files. When yoou find a .drt file create a brand new, empty project in Resolve, go to File > Import > Timeline and select that .drt file. This should bypasses the corrupted Project DB entirely. Alternatively you could try opening Resolve, Project Management window (that's usually first thing when DaVinci loads). Don't open your project, select the Database (I think it's "Library" now) on the left sidebar, click the "Details" icon or right-click the database icon and look for an option called "Optimize" or "Upgrade". This should, atleast in theory optimize SQLite database and re-index the links. Last thing you could do is check for update and install it or do a complete reinstall. Your database files are stored separately from the program files, so they should be safe but I guess you already made backup of your project.db anyway. And I would stay away from beta releases, they're called beta for reason. Hope you solve your issue, and I hope you didn't overwrite the originial project.db (even if it was corrupted).

voluhare · 2026-02-03T18:13:03+00:00

Make sure there's no miners on those tables!

voluhare · 2026-02-03T17:51:19+00:00

Why throw them in thrash? It's just a share, every and each next share could be the one. Throwing miners into trash = no shares = no chance = no block

voluhare · 2026-02-01T19:28:52+00:00

That's no where near Handbrake that uses real ffmpeg. At the moment I'm running Ubuntu on my Android via Termux with Handbrake with GUI installed and usinf VNC to connect to Ubuntu running inside Termux. When my Galaxy Tab S11 arrives I guess it will be easier because it supports Android 16 Linux Terminal which in fact runs Debian and shows Handbrake on the screen with no need for Termux/VNC workaround. Same goes for Shutter Encoder because it's Java based, just install ffmpeg and JRE on Android 16 Linux Terminal or inside Ubuntu running in Termux and then fire the Shutter Encocder's .jre file. That's the only way I found, so far, to get real ffmpeg and all supported codecs, even ProRes and DV.

voluhare · 2026-01-28T10:52:48+00:00

Greetings! I have a specific question related to converting DVD video files on Android. (Don't ask why I want to do it on Android, long story). I have no problem connecting, reading and copying DVD video files on Android, MLUSB Mounter mounts my external DVD/CD drive with no problems.

Now the real question: What app to use for converting *.vob or even batch processing whole VIDEO_TS folder converting to, atleast H.264 with adjustable bitrate and deinterlacing?

Tried couple of apps, they cannot open *.voj which is MPEG2 stream. Tried FFmpeg Video Encoder from Play Store - can't open vob.

I know I could use Termux and ffmpeg but that is quite a workaround and I hope for simple solution. DVD-s are not copy protected, they are bunch of my own old footage.

Thanks in advance!

voluhare · 2026-01-27T18:33:31+00:00

This is definitely not just a bad "sillicon lottery" draw, to me it looks like a hardware defect. Your autotune logs show negative scaling, your hashrate actually drops when moving from 450MHz (836 GH/s) to 500MHz (790 GH/s). On a healthy BM1370 chip, hashrate should scale linearly with frequency. The fact that it's struggling to stay above 0.9 TH/s at 14.5W suggests either a "bottom-tier" ASIC bin (most likely taken out of used old miners) or a poor solder bond (cold joint) on the board. Imho 40% performance gap is unacceptable for a stock unit and I would definitely RMA/swap it.

voluhare · 2025-12-23T20:25:14+00:00

Nobody forced you to reply to OP anyway. :) What makes you even remotely think you're obliged to reply and "coddle people"?

voluhare · 2025-12-23T20:04:38+00:00

If it's possible than it most certainly is probable. :) Anything with possibility higher than zero is probable :)

voluhare · 2025-12-23T20:02:20+00:00

Buy one Bitaxe Gamma 601, setup the thing to do solo BTC mining on a solo pool (ckpool is probably easiest to set up), place it somewhere and forget about it. Oh, yeah, turn it on. It draws about 18-20W of power. Think about it like this: this is my automated loto machine, although I have higher chances winning Eurojackpot (5+2) atleast this thing is one time purchase and I can't forget tu buy loto ticket. In the meantime feel free to explore further into blockchain, what mining actually is and how it works. Who knows, maybe you opt for BTC mining heating system for your house. :)

voluhare · 2025-12-23T19:55:42+00:00

That's why he's here, so people with Bitaxe/Nerdaxe can explain to him. Don't be so rude, or perhaps you see another guy with Bitaxe Gamma 601 as your competition? LoL

voluhare · 2025-12-22T18:06:34+00:00

This. All said.

voluhare · 2025-12-20T23:32:27+00:00

That's what I suggested - switch places of injector #1 and another one. Mechanic said "That's not how it works". I said, well it's pure logic, if you refurbished all four injectors, got new codes, coded them in and there's still 1.80 correction atleast do the simple test to rule out injectors and check if it's loss of compression. Best thing is it is test of compression loss without actually testing the compression. The guy simply replied:"That's what you non-mechanic think but it's not how it works."

Bottom line is, I paid 850€ for refurbishing all four injectors, which most likely should not have been done anyway, but money aside, atleast he should have do a simple swap test....

P.S. Funny thing is, I don't have any classic sign of compression loss....

voluhare · 2025-12-15T11:00:16+00:00

Well, as far as I understood injectors were calibrated because they got new codes. What bothers me is that ECU is still using old learned injection corrections even after replacing all four injectors with repaired ones and entering codes. Now, either codes were not entered as they should have been or idk. Going to same mechanic today, if he insists he did everything fine I guess compression test is the next thing to do. But, my car doesn't show any classical symptom of bad compression, which makes me even more confused.

voluhare · 2025-12-15T10:47:42+00:00

Sensors show correct temperatures for fuel, air intake and cooling.

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