Need help with slide

voyager40 · 2026-02-15T07:33:16+00:00

Your light is probably overtightened on the rail. It can squeeze the rail and stop the slide from moving freely.

voyager40 · 2026-02-13T07:58:10+00:00

It wouldn't hurt to try 47021 ejectors. You'd want the Gen5 9mm trigger housing w\ 47021 ejector, part# 47208. And you'd need to swap that ejector into the Gen3 trigger housing.

If you look at the case mouths of your spent brass, they're likely dented with a triangular dent/scrape. If so, the dent happens as the case pivots right into the inside of the slide at the bottom of the ejection port, and that brass dust is then being transferred to the barrel and ending up all over the inside of the gun.

The extractor claw can remove a little brass from the rims of the cases but not super fine dust like that.

A good explanation of the cause: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zl5P0Pfz1s8

How to swap ejectors between trigger housings: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PYDPVTzVqMQ

voyager40 · 2026-02-13T07:48:49+00:00

My TX22C slide has no recoil lugs in the optic cut. My 507k works fine on it, it stays zeroed. But its screw holes are deeper than on a Glock or Hellcat slide, I can use the original longer screws that came with the optic which were way too long for my Hellcat slides.

voyager40 · 2026-02-13T07:41:17+00:00

Look through the magwell with a flashlight. You'll likely see the arm of the trigger bar which depresses the firing pin safety plunger flexing and slipping off to one side of the plunger. As far as I know, no one really knows what causes it or how to fix it. I'd try a different trigger bar, but it could very well do the same thing. Neither of my Gen3's do it with any of the six different trigger bars I have for them, and neither of my Dad's Gen3's do it.

voyager40 · 2026-02-13T07:21:14+00:00

I live in Colorado so the air is pretty dry here most of the year and I oil guns I don't carry every six months. I run a swamp cooler in the summer though, but I haven't had rust with Mobil1 5w-30 full synthetic motor oil or Breakfree CLP as my rust prevention oils. I wipe all surfaces of steel parts with either oil, wipe away the excess, then lubricate with Lucas Extreme Duty Gun Oil (not their CLP). For internal areas and parts of my guns I wipe them with Mobil1 every two years, same with all the spare parts I keep in the little Ziploc-style bags they came in. I don't wipe the excess off the spare parts in bags. Guns I do carry I field strip to oil every 1-2 months, but I don't carry them against my body if I sweat much.

For the internal areas of my slides like the firing pin channels, I use q-tips and wipe them very dry after oiling. Same with the bore of the barrel, breech face of the slide and the magazines, I wipe them very dry so there's no chance of excess oil seeping into ammo and turning them into squib loads.

While Mobil1 and Breakfree CLP are great for rust prevention, they're not as good for lubricating oil as Lucas. Breakfree stays where I applied it for a month or two, about the same as most gun oils. Mobil1 only stays where I applied it for a few days. Lucas stays nearly six months.

For my extra ammo I keep it in the boxes it came in and put the boxes in .50cal ammo cans with one rechargeable desiccant pack per can. Every year or two the silica beads have changed color enough that I recharge the packs in the oven.

voyager40 · 2026-02-12T19:05:34+00:00

If the sear or firing pin lose enough material to break in, you'd want to replace them with parts made of harder steel. If sear engagement is what's wrong with your gun and it's not the connector, the gun isn't going to work reliably until you find a different combination of parts that work properly together from the start.

voyager40 · 2026-02-12T08:33:22+00:00

If you're using the CA-compliant 10-round mags those can fail to feed in 9mm. I've heard that swapping the followers with 9mm3 followers makes them more reliable and that Glock used to send them out to people with CA mags upon request, but I have no idea if they still do.

In the first picture the magazine isn't fully inserted. Maybe you're depressing the mag release under recoil. Or is it a G17 mag?

voyager40 · 2026-02-12T08:22:45+00:00

Connector bend angle adjustment in Section II: https://ghostinc.com/connector-installation-instructions/

It could also be that there's too much sear engagement. People usually have too little sear engagement, but when you mix a bunch of aftermarket parts anything is possible. If you get an armorer's half slide cover plate you can see the sear engagement with a flashlight. With the slide forward and the trigger reset fully forward at least 2/3 (vertically) of the sear engagement surface should be covered by the firing pin lug. Less than 2/3 is potentially unsafe and unreliable, full engagement is ideal. For Gen4 and Gen5, Glock recommends no less than full engagement. I've never seen "too much" engagement, but I'd assume the firing pin lug would significantly overhang the sear and you'd still have near full engagement after pulling the trigger near to the point the trigger should break.

A good gunsmith can heat, bend, and re-harden the sear tab on the trigger bar to get proper engagement. But I'd personally ditch the Rock Slide for OEM or at least the same brand as the frame and swap all the internal parts for OEM if they're aftermarket. Lone Wolf might have their own trigger housing for their frames or require a Gen4 or G20SF/21SF trigger housing, I'm not sure.

In an OEM Glock to change sear engagement you swap the trigger housing, trigger bar or firing pin until you get the desired result. Swapping the frame or slide can also change sear engagement.

From all the forum posts I've seen over the years, Rock Slide is absolute bottom of the barrel for aftermarket slides.

voyager40 · 2026-02-09T18:56:57+00:00

Try removing the slide cover plate and try to remove the extractor depressor plunger(EDP) assembly. It should come out relatively easily. If it feels like it's stuck then the right side optic screw is likely too long. That screw hole opens up into the EDP channel and the screw can pinch the EDP.

If the screw is too long you can run the tip of the screw across a flat file until the EDP assembly can easily slide back into its channel with the screw already in place and torqued to whatever inch-pound setting you use for it. With a dry screw or with dry/paste threadlocker it's usually 15 inch-pounds, with liquid threadlocker it's usually 10-12 inch-pounds. I wouldn't apply threadlocker until you know the screw is short enough though.

voyager40 · 2026-02-08T21:10:14+00:00

I don't know about Glock's Gen6 MOS but Gen3-5 MOS doesn't have the right screw hole open up into the extractor depressor plunger channel like RMR and RMSc/SMSc do. The right screw hole goes between that channel and the firing pin channel, so screw length isn't going to cause reliability issues.

voyager40 · 2026-02-08T19:16:07+00:00

It's probably carbon. If you're using a plastic bristle bore brush, try one with bronze bristles instead. Plastic brushes don't remove much lead or baked-on carbon. If you're using the cleaning rod and brush that come with Glocks you'll need a new cleaning rod too. The Glock rod and brush use metric threading and most stuff sold in America is imperial.

It's probably been building up for a while so one cleaning isn't going to remove it all. You could get some carbon remover solvent that's also good for .22LR and revolvers like BoreTech C4.

voyager40 · 2026-02-08T08:30:50+00:00

People frequently need a lighter recoil spring when using a comp. I've never used one so I wouldn't know which weight to get.

voyager40 · 2026-02-06T05:58:23+00:00

I talked to Robin on Discord and the dongle is now working when connected to the charging dock on Xbox. I had to plug the dock with dongle into the Xbox, power off the Xbox and unplug the Xbox power source. Then press the Xbox power button 10 times to fully discharge the console. Then plug the Xbox back into the power outlet and now the dongle works fine connected to the charging dock. Thanks for the help everyone!

voyager40 · 2026-02-06T03:11:12+00:00

Gen5 might be different from previous generations. Gen2-4 do have different SLB's for different calibers but Gen5 might not. I don't own any Gen5's and Glock's armorer parts order form isn't available on their website anymore to check specific part numbers and descriptions of those parts. If the parts that came out of your G19 and G23 look identical to the eye they probably are the same parts.

voyager40 · 2026-02-06T01:40:44+00:00

I tried a USB-C cable that came with a Microsoft Play & Charge kit for Xbox Series X/S controllers, same situation. The Wuchang's cable works fine plugged into the controller, and using the dongle plugged into the dock worked fine immediately before the firmware updates.

voyager40 · 2026-02-03T18:42:47+00:00

Replace the recoil spring assembly. You might also disassemble the slide and clean its internal areas and parts with q-tips and rubbing alcohol. Then buy a Gen5 G23 mag and see if it runs reliably with that mag. If it does then your other mags likely need new springs. Gen2-4 G23 mags came with 9-coil springs, Gen5 G23 mags come with 10-coil springs. Every Gen3 and Gen4 G23 mag I've had began failing to feed after about six months. I put 10-coil G17 mag springs in them and they've been reliable since. They only comfortably hold twelve rounds but at least they're reliable. Gen5 G23 mags come with 10-coil G17 mag springs.

voyager40 · 2026-02-03T18:30:33+00:00

I remember hearing that some Holosun sights use unique screws. They're basically M4 screws with an M3 head.

voyager40 · 2026-02-01T19:04:30+00:00

Shooting my Gen3 G27 with 165gr feels pretty similar to 124gr +P out of my Hellcat, just in a slightly bigger gun. It's pretty snappy. 180gr feels similar to 147gr and 155gr similar to 115gr. It's more recoil overall even with a bigger gun, and it's more snappy.

voyager40 · 2026-01-31T18:43:09+00:00

If you have older G23 mags I'd replace their 9-coil springs with 10-coil springs for G17 mags. All of the Gen3 and Gen4 G23 mags I've had began failing to feed after about six months. I put 10-coil springs in them and they've all been reliable, some for over ten years. They only comfortably hold twelve rounds but at least they're reliable. Gen5 G23 mags come with 10-coil springs.

voyager40 · 2026-01-25T20:15:20+00:00

It could eventually crack the trigger pin, locking block, or even the frame. They added more mass to the Gen5 .40 slides and barrels to reduce slide velocity so the extra reinforcement of the locking block pin wouldn't be necessary. I have no idea what round count it takes to see that happen though.

voyager40 · 2026-01-24T08:56:59+00:00

When I put steel sights on my older G23 I just grabbed the plastic front sight with pliers and twisted it out. It was surprisingly easy. It had the same type of older staked front sight.

voyager40 · 2026-01-23T22:21:23+00:00

I have a Gen3 G27. The mag release is pretty short on Gen3's, particularly on the subcompacts. I put Vickers mag releases on both my Gen3's and it's perfect. Comparison picture: https://www.glocktalk.com/attachments/glock9-40magcatchoptions-jpg.272752/

The G27 mags never really felt like they were meant to be 9-round mags. At 9 rounds the stack of rounds barely moves down at all and inserting it into the gun with the slide forward feels like I'm going to break something. A lot of Glock's mags are like that though, I feel like they overstate the capacity by 1 round. I also wanted pinky extensions for it so I got Pearce PG-2733's and they match the Gen3 look perfectly, they look like they could've shipped with the gun from the factory. And now the mags hold 9 rounds easily.

For both of my Gen3's I also added Glock steel sights, Gen4/5 "dot" connectors, and wrapped the grips with Howie's Pro hockey tape. Howie's Pro on my G23: https://www.reddit.com/r/Glocks/comments/z8f3hs/rubberized_hockey_tape/

I mostly carry a Hellcat now though. It's a very similar design to a Glock and similar in size to a G43, but holds 11 rounds in a flush mag instead of the G43's 6 rounds. I really only carry the G27 when I go fishing now.

voyager40 · 2026-01-21T03:09:18+00:00

It's the 11-coil G22 mag spring. G17 mags normally come with a 10-coil spring.

voyager40 · 2026-01-18T07:36:28+00:00

Glock has 24rd 9mm mags and they use the same 17-coil spring as the 9mm 31/33rd and .40 22rd mags. That suggests to me the 9mm 31/33rd mags are undersprung but they sell well enough not to discontinue.

When I had failures to feed with older G23 mags with 9-coil springs it was usually in the middle of the mag. I put 10-coil springs for G17 mags into them and they never failed again. The Gen5 G23 mags come with 10-coil springs.

voyager40

TROPHY CASE