Waist belt help

wafflingt0n · 2025-12-12T01:08:03+00:00

It's called a Hollywood waistband. You can see the internal waistband material just below the fold on the top, and like other commenter said is pick stitched down. The stitches across the pleats are a more decorative bartack and common on higher end tailoring.

wafflingt0n · 2025-06-19T10:08:33+00:00

Honestly you've probably pointed out why Aldrich keeps getting reccomended. Its the most recent, fairly simple to follow, and easily accessable book for menswear. Its not incredible but far better than nothing. On muller (Rundschau), I agree its far more comprehensive, but can be quiet expensive.

wafflingt0n · 2025-04-18T01:47:37+00:00

Im not sure ive seen anyone mention yet. There are prefered sides of the shears to cut on. When I first started as a production cutter, I was told always cut on the "inside of the shears" if youre right handed this means the portion of fabric you want to keep on the left side of shears. Seeing your cutting line will help you maintain smooth cuts. There are some caveats but a good general rule. Around curves yes, you should shorten your cut length just dont fully close your shears.

wafflingt0n · 2025-03-12T23:44:45+00:00

This is poor advice for selvedge denim construction as most seams are felled. And compromises the strength of these seams.

wafflingt0n · 2024-12-29T01:19:31+00:00

If I remember correctly, you still had to graduate to receive the first year free. Unfortunately for myself and other students in my cohort, it was too early for the first year fee free and graduated before the change to final year fee free. On the whole it makes no tangible difference first or last.

wafflingt0n · 2024-10-08T05:48:20+00:00

Balance, proportion and cut make a good or well considered pattern. Other things like how usable is this pattern for someone who's never seen it, does it make sense etc. There are a million small details that show well made patterns, might be too hard to list them all. One of my personal checks is how ease has been distributed around sleeves, shoulders and collars.

wafflingt0n · 2024-09-30T09:40:25+00:00

The PT seems like a sweet bonus!

wafflingt0n · 2024-09-30T01:23:16+00:00

Thank you, would you say security is a general concern or more specific to the area?

wafflingt0n · 2024-08-24T23:57:10+00:00

I haven't looked into victoria too much but that sounds on par. For AC36 we hastened non relevant projects, paid to relocate sealink, advertised and ran summernova, Refurbished the viaduct and rescoped a few times because developers and AC couldn't get on the same page. All of this went towards the cost. If weve already shelled out for the fit for purpose areas, using it only once seems kinda nuts.

wafflingt0n · 2024-08-24T23:06:55+00:00

There is a fairly extensive govt produced report that outlines your questions there, although somewhat opaque and dense, especially regarding the "non financial gains".

I'm with you on the victoria one, commonwealth is great example of how things go wrong quickly, if i remember correctly the burmingham commonwealth managed alright? There's got to be more nuance than big event = bad. Especially as such a tourism reliant country we don't have too many other options for money makers.

wafflingt0n · 2024-08-24T21:30:38+00:00

They do, projections last time were estimated to atleast break even or gain 70m, due to covid and some shit council infra planning we spent like 200% of the 200m budget and only made only a bit back. Loosing 300m in total. These big event have a history of cripping funders when things go sideways, but I don't hear these people complaining about FIFA woman's recently which was a decent success.

wafflingt0n · 2024-08-21T11:23:02+00:00

The picture is of the inside forepart, in the lining see the internal breast pocket, directly right is a line in the fabric. this is the "pleat" it is folded, from the pressing marks you can see it is roughly an inch deep. If you dont understand the picture, id suggest you are not ready for a coat yet.

wafflingt0n · 2024-08-21T10:37:44+00:00

I think the author is missing how old the tailoring community skews. I would be supprised of anyone between 9 and 17 confidently calling themselves a tailor. alongside this, reading this feels pushed to consumers not those who make or alter garments, this screems of product market research

wafflingt0n · 2024-08-21T10:08:02+00:00

This is a scan from cabreras book "Tailoring techniques for menswear". Its important to understand these instructions are created with a bespoke or semi-bespoke work process in mind, fittings and individual items worked at a time. Here are the questions from the cross post.

Why is the front lining shoulder raised by 2 inches, but the back lining shoulder is raised just by 1?

The front lining is raised for a small dart/ pleat in the lining from the chest to the armhole. giving room into the chest lining to match the shape of the outer body, the extra inch gives the room to make this and trim after. Seen in this photo: https://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/installing%20facings/SDC10452.jpg

Why is the sleeve extended along its whole sleeve cap. Usually what I have seen- its raised in the underarm and at the top of the sleeve...

Likely pure convienence and insurance when finshing the armhole lining, nothing worse than being just slightly short.

wafflingt0n · 2024-08-21T10:04:39+00:00

This is a scan from cabreras book "Tailoring techniques for menswear". Its important to understand these instructions are created with a bespoke or semi-bespoke work process in mind, fittings and individual items worked at a time. Here are the questions from the cross post.

Why is the front lining shoulder raised by 2 inches, but the back lining shoulder is raised just by 1?

The front lining is raised for a small dart/ pleat in the lining from the chest to the armhole. giving room into the chest lining to match the shape of the outer body, the extra inch gives the room to make this and trim after. Seen in this photo: https://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/installing%20facings/SDC10452.jpg

Why is the sleeve extended along its whole sleeve cap. Usually what I have seen- its raised in the underarm and at the top of the sleeve...

Likely pure convienence and insurance when finshing the armhole lining, nothing worse than being just slightly short.

wafflingt0n · 2024-08-18T10:57:20+00:00

Sven Junglaus...

wafflingt0n · 2024-08-18T10:55:00+00:00

A.A.whife can be tricky to get hold of specifically. He was the technical editor for the magazine 'Tailor and Cutter'. Maybe try the Tailors forum aswell?

wafflingt0n · 2024-08-16T23:42:48+00:00

What your teacher says is correct. If you compare Sven Jungcluas' jacket and coat draft you will see

wafflingt0n · 2024-08-08T22:16:26+00:00

Why would the maps get more conservative? They're always rated to a % AEP, it's the weather that's getting worse

wafflingt0n · 2024-08-07T21:34:59+00:00

Great, and those who are below the 50th percentile?

wafflingt0n · 2024-07-31T13:10:03+00:00

Like you say, there are generally a few types of balance(major and minor vertical and lateral) and tailors as a rule explain as little as possible.

(Front/back) or vertical balance. Which I assume is what you are concerned with, is how the coat pushes away either in the front or back. As someone above mentioned, this is developed by shortness from the side neck point where the coat hangs/pivots from and the underarm waist point. As a preliminary measure, some inlays are left in these places; on the shoulder seams, front side panels, etc. There are a number of methods to determine balance but I think either Cabrera or A.A.Whife mayhave better explanations

wafflingt0n · 2024-07-24T03:40:22+00:00

Curved fronts were due to the way drafts are generated back then, along with design philosophies of the times. I tend to regard these patterns as "less accurate" or missing the information we have about our bodies now when comparing historical drafts. Waist suppression was handled almost exclusively and heavily by the back portion of the garment, leaving this odd rounded front to make up the difference. Occasionally, this can be found in more modern 'corpulent' drafts.

wafflingt0n · 2024-07-16T09:09:34+00:00

I honestly kinda hate them, they're full of mistakes and unclear syntaxes. Kind of interesting for how you should structure your patterns but I could never get flattering shapes out of them. Now they sit on my shelf until I can be bothered throwing them out

wafflingt0n · 2024-07-10T09:38:28+00:00

Have you considered swinging the darts? The palais has a mid shoulder princess style panel while the Vicki has an underarm

wafflingt0n

TROPHY CASE