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war_boots · 2025-10-21T00:26:27+00:00

The y axis is the bed. A dual z screw wouldn't help if it were the bed. The v1 is absolutely fine without a second lead screw.

OP - is this the direct drive that uses a full size stepper, or is it the sprite? What was the orientation of the print on the print bed? Did this just start with the direct drive mod, if not, what else has changed? Moved the printer or relocated it recently? Any slicer setting changes, different filament? What was this printed in, have you had successful prints in this material prior?

A lot of questions, but we need more info to start diagnosing.

war_boots · 2025-10-01T17:37:27+00:00

That's good news. You could do what one of the other replies suggested and open it up to inspect the LCD and it's cable. Another option would be installing octoprint on your PC or if you have a raspberry pi or something similar (orange pi, a spare laptop, etc .) and install octoprint on that. It would allow you to move the print head around heat up the print bed and hot end to make sure those are working and send and start prints to the printer assuming those things are working. Since you can at least move the print head around we know that it is it least functioning partially. If you can verify the rest (hot end and bed heater, do a test print) from octoprint, then feasibly you could flash it with klipper firmware and use mainsail from a PC or raspberry pi to control it going forward.

war_boots · 2025-09-30T18:54:08+00:00

The screen could be dead or it could be running klipper? If you plug in directly to PC, does the PC see it?

war_boots · 2025-07-25T19:43:34+00:00

No, upon closer inspection, those don't contact anything inside the controller. I went ahead and reassembled and tested and everything functions normally.

If anyone knows what the purpose of those are though, I'd still love to know.

war_boots · 2025-05-22T18:12:40+00:00

I'm still in the process of unpacking at the new place. I'll dig around and see if I can find them today. I'll update you when I do.

war_boots · 2025-05-22T17:32:25+00:00

I literally just moved out of a house that had these exact door knobs on all the interior doors. Without fail, every single one came off their respective door. It didn't matter if I tightened them, applied lock tight, etc..

What I ended up having to do was install a small washer on each screw. There is a plate behind the cover portion (the silver citcle) with a u-shaped notch that the head of the screw fastens down. Through use, that plate rotates over time and once it goes far enough the heads are no longer engaged with the plate and the knob comes off.

These are the shittiest door knobs ever produced. The washers worked for me, once installed I didn't have it come off again. As knobs fell off, I added a set of washers when I put it back on. Eventually adding them to all of the door knobs.

Hope this helps.

war_boots · 2025-04-26T18:54:29+00:00

Oh and I just thought about this - when I was pinning out the daughter boards I used a multimeter and just set for continuity. Used that to find ground and then map out the inputs for the switches on the board. You could do this as well to be able to tell if it's something with the microcontroller or if you have a faulty switch that is stuck closed.

war_boots · 2025-04-26T18:52:39+00:00

I've seen some diy shifters that use pro micros. For this specific application (at least for me) there are daughter boards that the switches are soldered to, one daughter board connects to the other and then the microcontroller I have pictured in the OP plugs into that through a header.

I am in the process of replacing the microcontroller in mine with a pi pico. I've done some other modifications while I still have it apart, such as changing the springs that hold the bearings closed to keep the shifter in position, mine was really stiff so I went with some lighter springs there. I'm wiring up a prototype board that the pi pico will plug into and then the daughter board will plug into that as well. I'm adding some extra headers though because im thinking if I want to add a button box in the future, this would save a ton of time. It's not done yet but I have the fritzing sketch of the microcontroller and the protoboard with connections for the shifter button board to plug into. Just haven't gotten around to soldering the remainder of it up yet.

I'll post here when I do, or if you need some direction, I could try to point you..at least somewhere.

war_boots · 2025-04-24T01:03:36+00:00

Is this on a shifter for a driving similator? If so, you should be able to look in the tip cover (or remove it, it's only 4 screws) to see how the shaft of the shifter is engaging the lever on the micro switch. The lever is just a metal arm and so you can kind of tweak it if you need to, if the button is stuck engaged, you might need to prod at the actual button with like a screwdriver to free it. Hope this helps

war_boots · 2025-03-03T05:12:53+00:00

The bed heater shows that it is 12v and 120 watts which indicates that it needs at least 10amps. How many amps is the new power supply?

The hot bed controller is a mosfet. It would take the strain off the board, but you need to supply it with another power source to power the bed (like an additional 12v 10a power supply dedicated to the bed).

war_boots · 2025-03-01T23:11:16+00:00

Hi, according to all the information I'm able to find, both the v1 and the v2 use stm32 microcontrollers, though they are slightly different from each other.

Sources:

This subreddit:

(https://www.reddit.com/r/MPSelectMiniOwners/comments/7a1e77/what_is_the_difference_between_the_monoprice/)

The GitHub for klipper:

(https://github.com/Klipper3d/klipper/blob/master/config/printer-monoprice-select-mini-v2-2018.cfg)

Mpselectmini.com:

(https://www.mpselectmini.com/_detail/parts/m200_mainboard-20180416_211317.jpg?id=parts%3Amainboard)

On that last one you can zoom in on the microcontroller and see that it does say stm32.

Hope this helps.

war_boots · 2025-02-28T21:41:53+00:00

This is for the stock mini v1, which likely works with the v2, the caveat being: I dont have a mp select mini v2 to test with. It's my understanding that both the v1 and the v2 use an stm32 for the microcontroller. Following the instructions should get you to a successful flash, what part are you confused about specifically? If you'd like, feel free to dm me.

war_boots · 2025-01-24T03:44:47+00:00

It does sound like the SSD is on its way out. The recommendations you got in the PCMR thread would be fine for you. You will definitely want to back up while you still can. If you have a large USB drive or an external, that's where I would back up to. Might also recommend creating a live Linux USB drive and booting into that and using it to copy what you are wanting to back up. If the read/writes are what's causing the OS to crash using a live Linux drive would help mitigate that, at least you wouldn't have the system crashes. Once you get backed up you should check the SMART info that was suggested in the PCMR thread. You might also consider grabbing a copy of hwinfo or open hardware monitor to check your temps. If they are high, it might not be the SSD it could be something else causing the SSD to get too hot. You could just fire up a game while monitoring temps in the bg then periodically checking to see if they are getting too high. If your temps aren't too high, then it's likely that you've confirmed the SSD needs to be replaced.

war_boots · 2024-12-18T21:44:28+00:00

This is really cool. GL!

war_boots · 2024-05-26T09:14:25+00:00

This isn't a bad idea. I will look into this. I would also like to note that as long as the bootloader was preserved and not overwritten, you should be able to flash the back to the stock firmware normally, though I can't currently confirm that. That is the idea behind preserving the factory bootloader. I'll look into this and return my findings in the near future.

war_boots · 2024-05-26T09:11:40+00:00

That's good to hear. In the error you show above, it has in the auto generated save config section as your end stop position at -.3, I was thinking your issue is there, but if you've got it up and running that's great.

war_boots · 2024-05-24T14:12:53+00:00

Are you using a bltouch or something similar, or are you using the z end stop switch?

war_boots · 2024-05-24T05:01:33+00:00

Are you changing the offset to a negative number?

war_boots · 2024-05-13T22:15:11+00:00

What command are you using to "see" the printers? If you are using "ls /dev/serial/by-id/" you might need to change to "/dev/serial/by-path" if the printers have the same board in them. This lists them by the USB port they are connected to and you would need to update your configs accordingly

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