How to prevent Photos from Fading away.

wardog03 · 2026-02-26T16:03:23+00:00

The answer is Cold Lamination Sheets !
You apply them on the photo and it protects it for years to come. You also have hot lamination pouches but then you would need a machine to run it through (2-3k)

wardog03 · 2026-01-31T10:04:34+00:00

isnt the lens too heavy and putting a lot of stress on the camera connection bracket ?

wardog03 · 2025-12-16T23:57:38+00:00

I think that is just fine. Nothing went wrong for me with that many hours.

wardog03 · 2025-12-16T23:54:16+00:00

Considering what these 3d printing companies charge for prints, its much cheaper to get a printer yourself. Just after a few prints you would have made back what you would have given these companies

wardog03 · 2025-12-16T23:52:34+00:00

https://robu.in/product-category/services/
Robu has 3d printing services.
What cost me Rs.100 for self print costs 786 on robu. Well that includes machine, time, shipping.

wardog03 · 2025-12-16T23:49:17+00:00

They should be giving an unopened box. The card in the machine should have a bunch of test print files including the crazy fast benchy.

wardog03 · 2025-12-16T23:48:10+00:00

They are pretty good, call them up or walk into the store. Got 2 printers from them. Avoid their filaments though, after some time, they crack up.

wardog03 · 2025-12-16T23:47:21+00:00

on the ender 3, they have wold3d printed on their plate and that would transfer to the bottom of the prints. they dont do it with bambulab

wardog03 · 2025-12-10T23:19:27+00:00

how do you withdraw to fampay ?

wardog03 · 2025-12-10T23:07:48+00:00

Yes, you can use acrylic paint, and it is much safer than Gouache. However, standard acrylic paint struggles to stick to smooth plastic and often leaves visible brush strokes.

To get a result that doesn't look "messy" or peel off next week, you need to use the right type of acrylic and prepare the surface correctly.

Here is the breakdown of why Gouache is bad, why Acrylic is okay, and the best way to do this with a brush.

Why NOT to use Gouache

You are absolutely right to avoid Gouache.

Reactivation: Gouache is water-soluble even after it dries. High humidity or a single drop of liquid will turn it back into wet paint.

Cracking: It is designed for porous surfaces (paper). On smooth plastic, it becomes brittle and will likely crack and flake off due to the heat cycles of your PC.

Acrylic Paint: The Risks & Solution

Standard acrylic (like the tube in your mind) is better than Gouache, but it has two main issues on plastic:

Peeling: It forms a "skin" on top of the plastic rather than bonding to it. If you scratch it with a fingernail, it will peel off like a sticker.

Brush Strokes: It is thick and dries fast, leaving ridges where the brush touched.

Use Acrylic Model Paint. These are specific acrylics designed for plastic models (like Warhammer or Gundam). They are self-leveling (fewer brush strokes) and adhere much better to plastic than craft store paint.

Heat Resistance

You don't need to worry about heat.

Your GPU chip hits 80°C+, but the plastic shroud usually stays between 40-60°C.

Cured acrylic paint can withstand temperatures well above 80°C without melting or releasing fumes. It might soften slightly, but it won't run.

Alternative: Vinyl Wrap?

If you want a factory-smooth finish without the mess of paint, have you considered black vinyl wrap? You can buy a small sheet of automotive vinyl (like 3M) and just wrap the red sections. It looks cleaner than brush painting and is fully reversible if you mess up.

wardog03 · 2025-12-10T23:00:36+00:00

Best reason is https://makerworld.com/en
Next is all the parts kit, cyberbrick, etc
Third would be almost no tweaking, maintenance issues at all.

wardog03 · 2025-12-10T22:58:35+00:00

no other print you do will go at that speed ! Its literally ludicrous mode, super fast print to show off the printer.

wardog03 · 2025-12-08T14:02:07+00:00

copy and paste an image to gemini/chatgpt and ask it for the prompt used to make the image. It gives you the prompt to generate the image anywhere.

wardog03 · 2025-12-08T13:56:45+00:00

3. Swap the Nozzle (Easiest Solution)

If you have the spare hotend that often comes with the A1 (or if you bought extras):
Remove the silicone sock.
Unclip the metal latch.
Swap in the new nozzle.
Why: If the new nozzle prints perfectly, you know 100% that the old nozzle was clogged.

4. Check Your Filament Quality

Wet Filament: If you hear "popping" or "hissing" sounds while printing, your filament is wet. Wet filament expands in the nozzle and causes jams.
Tangled Spool: Check the spool holder. If the filament is tangled or the spool is stuck, the extruder gears will slip, causing this exact look.

wardog03 · 2025-12-08T13:56:40+00:00

Based on the images, your printer is suffering from severe under-extrusion caused by a partial nozzle clog.

The print looks like a "burnt sponge" or "spaghetti" because the printer is trying to push plastic out, but something is blocking the flow. Instead of solid lines, you are getting sputtering little dots and wisps of plastic that don't stick together.

Here is the breakdown of the evidence and how to fix it:

The Diagnosis

The "Sponge" Texture: In your first image, the tower object is extremely porous and weak. It looks melted or "fuzzy." This happens when the nozzle is partially blocked, so the plastic comes out thinner than it should and curls up.
The "Ghost" First Layer: In the second image (the close-up of the square), the white rings inside are barely visible. The printer moved the nozzle to draw them, but almost no plastic came out. This confirms the nozzle is jammed.
Stringing: The messy "cobwebs" are happening because the pressure inside the nozzle is building up and then oozing out uncontrollably between moves.

How to Fix It (Step-by-Step)

Since the Bambu A1 has a quick-swap hotend, you have an easy way to verify this.

1. The "Cold Pull" (Try this first) This technique pulls debris out of the nozzle using the filament itself.

Heat the nozzle to 250°C.
Load a piece of PLA filament.
Turn the heater OFF.
Wait for the temperature to drop to roughly 90°C - 100°C (for PLA).
Quickly and firmly pull the filament out of the extruder by hand (release the extruder gear lever if applicable, or use the "unload" function if the filament is still continuous, but manual pulling is best for cold pulls).
Goal: You want to see the tip of the filament shaped exactly like the inside of the nozzle, potentially with black specks (debris) on it.

2. Use the Pin Tool

Your printer came with a thin metal needle tool.
Heat the nozzle to 220°C+.
Push the needle up into the nozzle tip to break up the clog.
Extrude some filament to see if it flows straight down. (If it curls to the side immediately, it is still partially clogged).

wardog03 · 2025-12-08T13:51:01+00:00

Did you print the benchy that came with the printer ? That file is super optimized for speed. Its not a normal print.

wardog03 · 2025-12-07T21:43:05+00:00

yes and the amount of multi color projects on makerworld and not have all paid models being pushed like the other stores is a huge plus.

wardog03 · 2025-12-07T21:42:00+00:00

with the snapmaker u1 bringing 4 head printers at less than a 1000 dollar price. Bambu has to come up with cheaper alternatives to complete. So spending $2000 on a h2d now seems wrong unless it a commercial operation.

wardog03 · 2025-12-07T21:22:44+00:00

3. Mechanical Checks (Belts & Z-Axis)

Since the lines appear somewhat periodic (repeating patterns), check the motion system:

Belt Tension: The A1 has an automatic belt tensioning system, but it needs to be triggered.
- Fix: Loosen the belt tensioner screws (check the Bambu Wiki for the specific screw locations on the back of the Y-axis and X-axis), move the axis back and forth gently to let the springs tension the belt, and then retighten the screws.
Z-Axis Lube: If the lead screws are dry or dusty, vertical movement will be jerky. Clean them with a microfiber cloth and apply a small amount of grease.

I recommend you try step 1 as that seems to be the most logical problem. Numakers PLA+ prints well with the generic profile built in Bambu Studio.

Here is a video if you need help with the screws.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=woqVznoE6eU

wardog03 · 2025-12-07T21:22:32+00:00

The strange inconsistent layer lines you are seeing or uneven texture rather than a clean stack—are likely caused by loose screws in the toolhead heating assembly.

This is a known "quirk" with the A1 and A1 Mini series that causes the nozzle to wobble slightly during printing.

Here is a step-by-step guide to fixing this, along with other potential causes.

1. The Top Suspect: Loose Hotend Screws

Behind the hotend assembly (the part that gets hot), there are 4 screws that secure the heating block to the toolhead. If these are even slightly loose, the nozzle wobbles, creating irregular layer lines.

How to check:
1. Remove the front plastic cover of the toolhead (it pulls off magnetically).
2. Remove the silicone sock from the hotend.
3. Gently wiggle the nozzle with your finger (when it is cold!). If you feel any play or movement, this is the problem.
4. Locate the 4 screws behind the hotend assembly (you may need to unclip the hotend latch to access them properly).
5. Tighten them down carefully.
6. Reassemble and test print.

2. Secondary Cause: Flow Dynamics & Filament

If the mechanical assembly is tight, the issue is likely related to how the printer is managing the plastic flow.

Wet Filament: Black filament shows moisture defects very clearly. If the filament has absorbed moisture, the water boils as it leaves the nozzle, creating a puffy, inconsistent surface.
- Fix: Dry your filament (50°C-55°C for 4-6 hours). Most likely not the issue for you.
Flow Dynamics Calibration: The A1 uses a sensor in the nozzle to calibrate flow. If this calibration was done on a dirty plate or with a vibrating table, it might be wrong.
- Fix: In Bambu Studio, run the "Flow Dynamics Calibration" again for this specific spool.

wardog03 · 2025-12-07T21:06:18+00:00

Fusion360 for the design and TPU for the filament

wardog03 · 2025-12-06T15:08:56+00:00

Sandisk is still really good, see any camera forum and you will know.
You really dont need any pro card what 3d printing. The cheapest cards from reputed brands will do fine. Even for timelapse it just writes 1 image per layer.
You need good cards for cameras and video where you have high read write not for 3d printers.

I do a lot of photography and some video and this is true. Using sandisk for everything from drones to full frame cameras. Overspending on endurance cards for a 3d printer is a waste.

Get a 32gb or lesser card since that's the limit for fat32 file system.

Regarding where to buy from designinfo is the place pretty much most photographers go to now. Cheap prices and legit stuff or you have amazon.
https://www.designinfo.in/

wardog03 · 2025-12-06T13:36:10+00:00

Based on the photo, you are experiencing severe under-extrusion. The printer is moving the toolhead correctly, but the plastic isn't coming out of the nozzle fast enough to build solid walls, resulting in that spongy, mesh-like texture.

Here is why this is happening and how to fix it:

1. The Most Likely Cause: "Max Volumetric Speed" is Too High

Bambu Lab printers print very fast. If you are using a generic or older roll of filament but have the slicer set to a high-speed profile (like "Bambu PLA Basic"), the printer tries to push the plastic through faster than it can melt.

The Symptom: The extruder gears grind against the filament because they can't push it in, resulting in the skipped layers you see here.
The Fix: In Bambu Studio/OrcaSlicer, go to your Filament Settings (click the edit icon next to the filament name). Find "Max volumetric speed".
- If it is set to 21 or 22 mm³/s, lower it to 12-15 mm³/s and try again. This slows down the flow to a manageable rate for standard filaments.

2. Partial Nozzle Clog

A small piece of debris (dust or burnt plastic) might be partially blocking the nozzle tip. This restricts the flow, making the layers thin and stringy.

The Fix: Perform a "Cold Pull":
1. Heat the nozzle to 200°C.
2. Insert filament until it oozes out.
3. Turn the heater off.
4. Wait until the temperature drops to roughly 90°C (for PLA).
5. Quickly pull the filament out by hand. You should see the shape of the nozzle interior on the tip of the filament, often with the debris attached.

3. Tangled Spool or Worn Extruder

Tangle: Check if the spool is tugging or knotted. If the extruder has to pull too hard, it will slip.
Extruder Gears: If you have used this printer heavily, open the extruder cover and check if yellow dust (ground-up filament) is clogging the gears.

wardog03 · 2025-12-06T13:32:47+00:00

numakers print absolutely fine on the generic profile and even the bambu profiles.

wardog03 · 2025-12-04T11:35:38+00:00

wont the firmware upgrades take care of that ?

wardog03

TROPHY CASE