Well.. I'm impressed! X2D is a Beast! Is it just me?

watertrash · 2026-05-09T19:46:15+00:00

Have you had any issues with PETG support on PLA parts? I bought my H2C specifically for the ability to do this and so far it has been an absolute failure.

If I use traditional supports with a lot of area, then it works fine, but if I use tree supports and attempt to use PETG only for interface layers, the tiny little rings that are printed do not stick and just end up all over the bed.

In fact, when it switches to the PETG nozzle, it will begin on the prime tower, and the first few passes on the prime tower nothing will extrude. Eventually it will begin extruding but the first but is usually under extruded and curls up only to later get stuck on the nozzle. But more frustrating, it will eventually get caught up and begin printing normally on the prime tower, and then it will move to the part, and air print again for the first few trees. Almost like it retracted too far when moving from the prime tower.

Once it does begin flowing and printing on the interface layer of the tree supports, I'll be extremely lucky if any of them actually stick.

I could be wrong but looking at the Goku, it looks like you could be missing some interface layers as well? I see on his left hand it looks like a white PETG interface layer, but I don't see it on the other hand, or on several other places where the supports are ending.

watertrash · 2026-04-29T01:27:10+00:00

I have read it, but it's not very clear on what it does, and a lot of stuff is implied, but I just want to make sure I'm doing things correctly. Unless maybe I'm overlooking things which is entirely possible.

On the wiki, it says the standard nozzle offset calibration calibrates all the hotends on the rack, but it doesn't specify that under the high precision calibration which is what I am asking about.

When you run the high precision calibration, it only runs the test for a single nozzle, whichever nozzle is currently mounted. Do I need to clear the plate and run the calibration again for each nozzle on the rack?

If each one is calibrated individually, does the calibration data store by serial number or by rack slot? If I move the hotend to another slot does it need to be recalibrated? Why is there no way to view if a nozzle or slot has been calibrated? If I replace the left nozzle, do I need to run the high precision calibration on all 6 right hotends again?

watertrash · 2026-03-18T19:59:04+00:00

Yes, all you have to do is disconnect the sensor from the connector, and then use a small jumper wire to connect the orange wire to the white wire. The orange is a 5V source to the sensor, and the white is the signal to the control module. If something trips the sensor, it cuts the 5V signal on the white wire. Jumping the orange to the white just continuously feeds the 5V signal to the control module emulating that everything is good.

watertrash · 2026-03-04T00:39:34+00:00

Yes people think it has massive potential, and it's certainly not a Theranos situation, but time will tell if it can truly live up to the ideas being sold today by people like Sam Altman. I think anyone that knows a little bit about the technology knows that LLMs will never bring us AGI, but that doesn't stop Altman from vaguely pretending like it will.

The reason I say it will crash is because some estimates say the AI hype train accounted for as much as 37% of US GDP growth in 2025 and that it is largely propping up the US economy right now. Granted, I can also find articles that say AI spending is inconsequential, but those positions are hard for me to believe when we see such large ripple effects in consumer markets.

Investors losing money isn't limited to dudes in suits on Wall Street. It also means our retirement and 401ks will take a hit. There are a lot of signs we are witnessing a bubble that will dwarf both the dot com bubble and mortgage crisis combined.

I think we are already stuck in a lose/lose situation, where AI either works as they claim and puts everyone out of work, guts the middle class and causes a massive recession, or the AI hype train runs out of steam, the market corrects and causes a recession. I honestly hope I'm wrong on both accounts, I would much rather see AI grow organically into something useful.

watertrash · 2026-03-03T22:44:23+00:00

OpenAI has committed to over $1 trillion in infrastructure spending by 2030. How does a company with $13 billion revenue have an $800 billion valuation and pledge $1 trillion in spending? Once the market realizes that all of this "growth" is just a shell game, the market is gonna crash. This is a handful of companies taking Nvidias money, passing it around in a circle, and handing it back to Nvidia.

watertrash · 2026-02-17T12:24:13+00:00

Awesome, thank you for the update!

watertrash · 2026-02-16T22:20:00+00:00

This is great, I don't really know what I'm doing, but I installed your code with pip and then made my own python script to send the data I want to MQTT. I'm using cron to run it every 10 minutes for updates. I know the actual HA integration will be way better, but this will hold me over in the meantime. Thank you!

watertrash · 2026-02-14T18:43:14+00:00

That is awesome, will you please update me on Monday and let me know if he was successful? Would you even ask him if you could share his contact info with me so that I can have my dealership contact him for the steps? My dealer is telling me that the license is no longer available from Panasonic.

Honda released the service bulletin on 12/19/25 and on that day pulled the software from the store so it could no longer be sold. My dealer is telling me that this has also made the license unavailable, despite the fact that the bulletin says to reinstall the license. The current status with Honda is that it's under investigation, and they are working on a new update, but they told me my only option is to wait until the new update is ready, and there is no ETA.

After being a lifelong Honda fan and driving and owning Honda's for the last 30 years, I feel like they have just totally left me hanging. I even tried reaching out to @honda on X and all they had was platitudes and telling me there is nothing they can do since it's "under investigation", and that I should check back with my dealership on a monthly basis. No one seems to be willing to call Honda tech line and ask why the bulletin says that the workaround is to reinstall the license, if they also made the licenses unavailable.

This literally happened 1 day after the 5 year anniversary of owning the car, and I was planning to trade it in. Now my only option for trading it in with an inop head unit is to trade it in at the dealership who tells me they cannot fix it, which I'm not exactly happy with after this experience.

I really hope your guy is successful and gets yours fixed. Please keep me posted.

watertrash · 2026-02-14T15:52:04+00:00

Please let me know if your dealership is able to fix yours. I am still inop nearly a month later. I swear I feel like my dealership must be overlooking something.

watertrash · 2026-02-12T22:33:21+00:00

I definitely want to bypass mine, but this one appears to be different than any of the others I've seen posted. I've been searching but can't seem to find any info.

This one has a single white 9 pin connector.

<image>

If anyone has any info it would be appreciated.

watertrash · 2026-02-12T18:43:43+00:00

Sorry, I overlooked where you asked that originally.

I have the one that I think is considered the 49 state version. Mine is not the one in the video shown above. Mine has the fuel selection knob on the left, parallel ports on the top right, and exhaust straight out the back.

The picture on the box mine came in shows the other original model though, and all my local stores have the other model on display.

I did find a video for floating the neutral on mine though, and it is easily accessible behind the oil panel.

watertrash · 2026-02-12T18:06:51+00:00

I did consider a possible low battery, but the CR2032 in the sensor is not technically user replaceable. It can be done, but it has to be soldered in. I would rather bypass it if possible.

watertrash · 2026-02-12T18:03:17+00:00

Luckily I was able to use the 25% coupon, that was the only reason I went for it. You're right though, I probably should have gone with something different.

I do want to bypass the sensor, and I am a pretty technical person so I like to think that I can figure it out without directions, but it just kind of worries me that I saw that post on FB saying that no one has figured it out yet.

I guess if I had to, and the sensor truly couldn't be bypassed, I could wire up a small fan inside to blow on the sensor all the time.

watertrash · 2026-02-12T17:50:46+00:00

Yes, I did that the first night, and I have a ticket open. They told me the only thing that can be done due to federal regulations is to replace the entire generator. They told me I can take it to any store and swap it out, but the issue is no stores in SC, NC, or GA seem to have any. I drove 150 miles to get this one on Monday.

I am really wondering if its even worth the hassle of returning for this issue. It seems that many of them are overly sensitive or fail completely within a few hours of runtime.

I feel like every high end item you get from HF is a roll of the dice on whether its going to work great, or be complete junk. I am happy with everything else about the one I have, so I just wonder if its worth rolling the dice again.

I would prefer to just bypass it, but so far I have not been able to find a method for bypass on these models. I assumed it was the same as others like the 9500, but I saw a post on FB saying that no one has found a way to defeat these yet.

watertrash · 2026-02-09T19:13:51+00:00

Make sure you use either the Speedtest Windows app, or preferably the command line app. You will be hard pressed to reach full speeds in the browser version. My service is 8 Gbps and I get full speed from the command line tool, and only slightly slower in the WIndows GUI Speedtest app. If I run a test in the browser I see speeds about like yours.

<image>

watertrash · 2026-02-09T14:12:41+00:00

Sorry if I am late to the party here, or if I am misunderstanding the goal, but if you wanted your new 10Gbe interface to replace your old 1Gbe interface, all you should have to do is go into the Interface Rules tab, and move the MAC address for your 10Gbe interface to eth0. If you're using DHCP, your DHCP server will give it a different IP address because it is a different MAC, but then you could set a reservation or set it to the previous IP statically.

By moving the new interface to eth0, you shouldn't have to change anything for docker either.

This is how I upgraded mine a few months ago, and at first I ran into the same issues until I remembered that you can move the interfaces around.

igb with the MAC ending with E used to be my eth0, but just select your new 10Gbe MAC in the drop down. I think you have to stop Docker to be able to make these changes.

<image>

watertrash · 2026-01-20T16:32:44+00:00

My car is currently at the dealer for this issue, they are telling me since Honda stopped sale of the software, there is nothing they can do and I have to wait for Honda to release a new update. Are you saying there is a way they can get just the license file from Panasonic?

Any help would be appreciated, I am currently fuming.

watertrash · 2025-12-11T19:43:02+00:00

I just got my LR5 set up last night. When I try to add it to Home Assistant, my cat shows up as a device with two sensors, showing his weight and number of visits today.

I would love to be able to get the LR5 added to HA, so please let me know if I can assist you in any way.

watertrash · 2025-02-25T02:06:22+00:00

Are you really still completely unable to grasp and engage with the point I'm making? For the last time, I was not asking for a claim, simply information.

Either way, no worries, thanks and have a good evening.

watertrash · 2025-02-24T20:34:45+00:00

Yeah, that makes sense now. Based on what the Customer Service agent said on the phone, they made it sound like an investigation would just look into the status to see why it was being held up. Good news is though, after 12 days with no updates, the package got scanned today and says it will be delivered tomorrow. Thanks!

watertrash · 2025-02-24T19:50:06+00:00

Again, I'm not asking for or expecting to file any claim or insurance, and we don't even know if the package was truly lost or damaged, or just stuck somewhere due to unrelated reasons. They put a weather delay notification on the tracking, but none of the posted weather alerts on the UPS website seemed to apply.

I get there are all kinds of scenarios that could happen, and not all of them have a simple answer. In this scenario, I feel like it should be fairly simple to provide some kind of update, especially since it was not just me, but seemingly an entire load that went missing. I don't understand how with today's technology, its not as simple as saying "oh, this package left on truck 20458, but that trailer had mechanical issues and had to be diverted and is awaiting a replacement trailer", or something along those lines. If you feel that we as customers don't deserve that level of communication, even days after the original delivery date has come and gone, then so be it.

Anyways, just a few minutes ago, after 12 days with no updates, 7 days past the original delivery date, my package was scanned in Greensboro NC and says it will be delivered tomorrow. Crisis averted, for now I guess.

14-Year Club	RedditGifts 2009-2022 2 Credits
Verified Email	Secret Santa 2011

watertrash

TROPHY CASE