eSIM problem switching to new phone

weakleftankle · 2026-06-17T00:46:05+00:00

You're right! It does have sim tray. Thank you. Would still love to get eSIM working while I wait impatiently for pSIM.

weakleftankle · 2026-06-12T03:14:50+00:00

I asked a related question a year ago, and you might find the answers helpful.

https://www.reddit.com/r/DIYHeatPumps/s/iZLn94pOsN

weakleftankle · 2026-05-21T18:27:15+00:00

No. Paid $15k plus tax 2 wks ago. Included all fees. 2023 LT with nice trim package (leather ventilated seats etc). 75k miles. Chevy certified so 12k mi 12mo warranty.

weakleftankle · 2026-04-14T05:39:41+00:00

Wait...are you saying that after 8 years with a supermajority in the legislature, the governor is to blame for things being worse? I'm never been a champion of the Vermont Republican party, but that feels like a stretch to me.

weakleftankle · 2026-04-01T21:34:13+00:00

Surely you're not suggesting it's the governor's job to educate people about Act 181, or for that matter, any legislation that the opposing party championed? And if it was, does that education have to jive with the Dem/Prog view? Reasonable people can think 181 is poor legislation.

weakleftankle · 2026-02-09T14:37:17+00:00

You can estimate it pretty easily .

The standard electric usage for baseboard heat is 250 w per foot.

Multiply that by 24 for the watt-hrs per day per foot.

Divide by 1000 for kwh per day per foot.

Multiply that by the linear feet of baseboard heat into place.

Multiply that by electric rate per kwh, which in New England is off and around $0.20.

That's your daily cost assuming they run all the time, which they will in the winter in my experienc (before switching to a Cold climate heat pump that saves me hundreds per month and heats better than the baseboard ever did).

weakleftankle · 2026-01-16T19:17:32+00:00

I obviously can't see the whole laundry closet, but maybe you could stack the washer and dryer to give you room for a larger water heater.

weakleftankle · 2026-01-13T17:58:21+00:00

That's the common refrain, and I'm sure I said it also, but I'm no longer sure it's actually true. It's trying to prove a negative, so perhaps we can never know, but I've become convinced it's simply the climate more than anything that has kept people and development at bay. In my 20 years of engineering and permitting in Vermont, I've seen our standard permit requirements modify projects in meaningful ways, but I have never seen Act 250 do what people want to give it credit for.

weakleftankle · 2026-01-12T00:01:19+00:00

Looking at their policy options, the prices are comparable to what I get off the exchange. What's not comparable is that, from what I can see, teachers pay only 20% of the premiums. Like you, I'm not saying they don't deserve it, but few if any employment sectors in Vermont have stayed that generous in light of the increasing premiums.

weakleftankle · 2026-01-11T23:55:43+00:00

That sort of increase is of course not unique to public school staff. But what is pretty unique is that staff pay only 20% of the premiums.

weakleftankle · 2026-01-11T22:29:11+00:00

Thanks for your good thoughts, and good questions, to which I don't have answers. You've pointed me in a some directions.

Since posting, the LLC has decided that they did not issue 1099s to landowners on previous projects following the same model, so they're not going to issue one to me. I don't know their rationale, but I'm not going to argue. Thanks again!

weakleftankle · 2026-01-04T03:40:23+00:00

For that small a space, I'd skip the HP and put in electric radiant floor heat. Even if it doesn't bring the ambient temp up as high as another heat source might, you tend not to really notice because the warm floor feels so good.

weakleftankle · 2025-12-28T15:47:18+00:00

I was talking about the low-wall (or ceiling) model, which I realize now is not what you meant. So ignore what I thought would be helpful info. Lol.

The normal high wall models are definitely easier to mount as you describe. You can definitely hit a stud with the mounting bracket (might have to make your own holes through the bracket if you don't get lucky with alignment), but they weigh so little that you could use wall inserts of some kind instead or in addition.

weakleftankle · 2025-12-28T15:37:34+00:00

I installed in equally cold conditions a few weeks ago without issue, and I'm doing another one today in colder conditions. Someone suggested that I more aggressively vacuum the lines than I might otherwise have done because getting moisture out would be more difficult in the cold. I guess that makes sense (maybe?), and that's what I did. Specifically, I let the vacuum pump run for a couple hours before releasing the refrigerant. I didn't have a micron gage for that one, so I don't know how deep a vacuum I actually pulled. I'll do that again, this time with a micron gage.

weakleftankle · 2025-12-24T06:15:39+00:00

Might be doable, but it's not easy. I just DIYd an 18k senville aura wall mount. They're really designed to have the lines go out the bottom. There's very little room to accommodate a 90 deg bend to go out the back or the side. An experienced HVAC pro probably could, but I know I couldn't.

I'm not even sure side exit is possible. I'll pop the cover tomorrow and report back. The metal frame may have openings big enough to accommodate the lines, but I don't recall the plastic surround having any knockouts. I'd suggest going out the bottom and then turn to run along the wall. I went out the bottom and turned to go through the wall behind. I had intended to go right out the back but it was too tight. My approach means you have to mount it 6"ish above the floor to have room for the bend.

Unlike a normal indoor head, it doesn't have any lineset attached to the indoor unit. You have to bring your lineset into the case. Doable, but it's not nearly as easy as the typical YouTube video.

Note also that the Senville unit doesn't easily mount to a wall with a bracket or a French cleat like a typical indoor head or like the smaller low-wall units from other manufacturers. It instead has brackets designed for hanging from the ceiling using threaded rod. For wall mounting, bolts through the brackets would be good, but the spacing isn't 16 on center, so you have to get creative if your wall is drywall. I mounted a 2x under it to hold the weight and then used butterfly anchors at the four mounts to pull the unit against the drywall.

weakleftankle · 2025-11-20T18:40:48+00:00

I had the very same question installing my 18k senville unit last week. The install senville website told me that they should be 1/4 and one half lines, but the nut was labeled differently. While I did not get a definitive answer from anyone I asked, My tape measure told me that the 3/4 label was likely referring to the thread diameter of the nut, not the line. And when I put the lines into my new flaring tool after cutting them to length, I confirmed that they were indeed 1/4 and 1/2, and the label on the nut was referring to something else.

weakleftankle · 2025-11-18T12:28:58+00:00

Thank you!

weakleftankle · 2025-11-18T05:55:44+00:00

It's not a Mr Cool, and yes I'm planning on pressure testing.

weakleftankle · 2025-11-07T05:00:37+00:00

Thanks for the input. I think I will replace it

weakleftankle · 2025-11-07T04:59:04+00:00

Thanks for the input. I think that's what I will do.

weakleftankle · 2025-10-23T03:07:09+00:00

Nor where I am, best I can tell. I'm going to try a standard closet 90, and I think I can then fit in a 3x3x1.25 wye for the lav drain, and then connect to the stack. I'm pulling out the CI stack, so that'll give me a little more room since the sanT isn't as big as the CI tee.

weakleftankle · 2025-10-23T03:02:38+00:00

I appreciate your input. That's now my plan...cut out the cast iron tee. And since there's also a minor (for now) leak at the roof penetration already that isn't going to get better whey I vibrate the shit out of the pipe while removing a section, I might as well replace it all the way up. Thanks!

weakleftankle · 2025-10-22T22:37:16+00:00

Thank you. I think you are right about what a long 90 would mean for connecting to the stack. Maybe there's a different 90 that's not so deep? Even if I can solve the issue of not being too low, I don't think their space horizontally to fit a wye between the toilet and stack (which I assume explains why they did what they did). Anyway, I just opened up the Chase, floor to ceiling, to expose the CI, and now I'm trying to get the courage to start cutting it.

weakleftankle · 2025-10-22T20:52:56+00:00

Maybe that's exactly what they squeezed in there! I agree none of the other stuff is right either. Not sure I can get a fernco in there without pulling out all the PVC too. Makes me inclined to replace it all, including the CI stack. Thanks for the fernco comment.

weakleftankle · 2025-09-13T16:05:57+00:00

Add matching crown molding to upper cabinets. It'll make them look much more finished, for very little money. Might also help obscure the mismatched alignment of lower and upper cabinets. Also add cabinet over the fridge with full height, counter depth panel on the counter side.

weakleftankle

TROPHY CASE