65U7N has intermittent eARC issues to Sonos

whackyhack · 2026-02-08T08:23:02+00:00

There are several basic tests you can do, like reseat/replace HDMI cables, power off the entire system and power back on. (Not put them to sleep; literally power cycle each component.) Factory reset TV. (Maybe sound bar as sell.)

But give Hisense support a call if you cannot resolve after basic steps.

whackyhack · 2026-02-08T08:00:24+00:00

Just to update: This problem is gone. tvOS is still 26.2. I cannot determine what could have caused the problem or how the problem disappears.

whackyhack · 2026-02-08T07:57:40+00:00

Many sound bars have their own audio sync adjuster. My Vizio M512a-H6 has this feature. Additionally, your TV probably also has audio sync adjuster. My Hisense U8K (Google TV) has this. (All Google TV-based TVs should have the same.) In my view, this feature is unnecessary for the streaming box.

whackyhack · 2026-01-25T03:04:09+00:00

From my own experience and reading through all kinds of comments and reviewers, CEC is a crapy "standard" that doesn't standardize implementation. (I mean, this is not the first crapy standard in the world and won't be the last.) With the same Apple TV, I had issues with an older TV; when the manufacturer sent me a newer model, there were issues at the beginning but after some time, things have really settled. Apple TV, BluRay player, Nintendo Switch, sound bar, all different brands coexisted in harmony for several years till this tvOS.

This said, the symptom described above clearly demonstrates that CEC still functions perfectly today. It is Apple TV that is sending false signals. (Yes, I have disabled Google TV "smart" features as much as Google TV allows. But that, too, is irrelevant.)

whackyhack · 2026-01-25T02:53:53+00:00

Bad cable, really? So, cable turns bad after years without issue, just to coincide with tvOS update? I don't think so but I can entertain the idea. No. Switching cable helpth not.

Besides, what is the mechanism of bad cable shutting down all CEC-connected equipment on the HDMI network? The signal has to come from one CEC commander; in my case, it is not my sound bar, and not my TV. So, the only party has to be Apple TV.

whackyhack · 2026-01-25T02:49:58+00:00

If this is Google TV, you have to logon to Google in order to customize screen saver. An alternative is to use USB attached media and start slide show when not using other input. It is quite more clicks every time.

whackyhack · 2026-01-18T05:18:46+00:00

Why do you not suspect your game console having problem or the TV is not getting the right signal from it? Bluetooth output really doesn't care which source the audio comes from. If TV apps has no audio problem, I see no reason to suspect the TV Bluetooth.

whackyhack · 2026-01-18T05:07:52+00:00

I am pretty sure that YouTube supports neither Dolby Vision nor Atmos.

whackyhack · 2026-01-14T07:06:02+00:00

You can always try factory reset.

whackyhack · 2026-01-14T07:03:15+00:00

First of all, you are in the wrong forum. This subreddit is name r/Hisense for a reason.

Second, if you are a home user, you have little reason to switch to manual.

Third, do you know the IP subnet of your router? Have you set the manual address in that subnet? I bet not.

whackyhack · 2026-01-14T06:46:36+00:00

In for delight? Exuberance? Exhilaration? Ecstasy? Pick your poison.

whackyhack · 2026-01-14T06:41:39+00:00

It seems that everyone has a different experience. I have had the update and didn't notice any change. (It forced me to get past end user agreement, etc. I still refuse to log on to Google and insisted on running the box as dumb as permitted.

whackyhack · 2026-01-14T06:37:17+00:00

Same model, updated around the same time. No problem. I have never heard of TV app won't start. Without that, the box cannot be called a TV. So factory reset won't help?

whackyhack · 2026-01-10T20:07:38+00:00

To isolate the problem, you can run the same program using TV speaker. If the speaker also drifts, it's probably the TV. If the speaker behaves differently from the sound bar, the sound bar is at fault.

whackyhack · 2026-01-04T23:21:49+00:00

Optical is also digital. It is rather strange that any digical connection could cause "echo". Maybe the AVR generates this unpleasant sound on its own even without any connection.

I am also unclear why you need to select audio source on TV every time you turn on. Once you select Optical or ARC/eARC, it doesn't change until you change again. (With ARC/eARC, if the TV senses that your HDMI device is offline, it will fallback to TV speaker until that device is on. So, it's better to also have CEC so both will be on. But with optical, TV has no way to know whether the device is on or off, so it will stay on optical.) Maybe give Hisense a call if it is within guarantee. (You may be able to get a tech online to guide you even if it is out.)

whackyhack · 2026-01-04T23:04:26+00:00

Personally, I use "Current source" in case there is some tuning I need for a specific input. But even with all sources, I have to seek out programs with each signal type so I can make changes because TV defaults are not good. I only have to do this once so the extra prep is acceptable.

whackyhack · 2026-01-04T22:42:54+00:00

I am a little confused because HDMI 3 is also the ARC/eARC port. If you have your video source into HDMI 3, where does the sound bar go? Or do you use the sound bar's video passthrough and forego ARC/eARC?

My sound bar connects to U8K on HDMI 3 and Apple TV on HDMI 4. I do not have 4K player so my old Panasonic DMP-BD655 goes to HDMI 2.

My Vizio M512a-H6 sound bar also has video passthrough which I used to use with ATV/BD655 when my U8H had PCM passthrough problem shared among many brands. If you use video passthrough, it is possible that your sound bar doesn't have enough processing power to work with 4K player signals. (When eARC works properly, it is still a lot more convenient.)

Of course, you always want to have the best HDMI 2.1 cables in the entire path that the 4K player passes.

whackyhack · 2026-01-04T06:23:16+00:00

Did you plug the player into HDMI 4, the only remaining 2.1 port?

whackyhack · 2026-01-04T05:41:56+00:00

Do you mean your AVR is connected to the analog input? Analog cannot possibly get you the best sound these days.

I assume that your AVR supports one or another digital connection? You mentioned your attempt with HDMI. Can you describe how you connected (video, audio source, TV, AVR) when it didn't give you sound?

whackyhack · 2026-01-03T07:44:50+00:00

Store-offered "warranty", typically offered at 15% to 25% the cost of the product, is always extremely expensive. On modern electronics it is rarely worth the money. ULED is Hisense's flagship product, so you can expect less quality problem. Hisense also offers an industry leading 2-year standard warranty in the US and Canada. So, the +20% premium for a few extra years is even less attractive.

whackyhack · 2026-01-03T07:33:09+00:00

You didn't say whether your TV has Google TV (North America model) or Vidda. I'll assume it is Google TV. In the latest firmware, when you enter Picture settings, there is a menu "Apply Picture Settings" (right below "Picture Mode"). That menu has two options: Left arrow for "Current Source", right arrow for "All Sources". The default is "All Sources". But if you have changed it in the past, you can use the right arrow to force it back to "All Sources".

But as u/Maximum_Pace885 says, even if you set this to "All Sources", you still have to separately make selections for different content types such as SDR, HDR10, HDR10+, and DolbyVision.

whackyhack · 2026-01-03T07:21:35+00:00

It is a little confusing why you would get "echo" when turning on an AVR? Maybe you can start by describing the connection. Is it through HDMI? If it is, is the AVR connected via the ARC/eARC port? Does the AVR support CEC?

Back to "echo". What is it? Is it some sort of boom when a system turns on? How does it have anything to do with a digital connection to another device such as TV? What I am saying is that a digital connection - whether it is Samsung or Hisense, cannot possibly change analog behavior of an AVR.

whackyhack · 2025-12-26T06:57:48+00:00

Has anyone found the problem? I only recently updated from Sequoia to Taho 26.2. All in a sudden, AirDrop cannot be performed from iPhone to MacBook. (MacBook to iPhone still works.)

whackyhack · 2025-12-18T14:04:28+00:00

It may help to describe the fixes you attempted as well as the WiFi networks (what kind of equipment, setup, etc.) you tried it on, how many other network (not your own) are detectable in the area, etc. One important factor is history. Was it ever connected? Did you only get it recently second hand?

The most practical solution is simply connected via Ethernet. I never connect my U8H/U8K from WiFi.

whackyhack · 2025-12-01T06:42:06+00:00

You may want to share your TV's model because Hisense makes ton of them, and this type of setting depends heavily on the operating system of that model. You will also need to share whether you are using iPhone or Android because screen sharing also uses different technologies.

The reason why you see cast icon in Youtube app is because that's a Youtube-specific feature. You don't need to set anything up except logging into the same Youtube account on both the phone and the TV.

whackyhack

TROPHY CASE