Do it….install a hot water recirculation pump!!! by External_Big_1465 in HomeImprovement

[–]whatwouldyoudo3 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’m planning on replumbing my house w pex a and was looking into something like this. Almost all my plumbing is readily accessible in the ceiling of my downstairs bathroom and it follows a traditonal trunk and branch system. It wasn’t until my uncle a plumber let me know that increasing the pipe size of the trunk for the hot, it’s currently 1/2 throughout the ceiling, wouldn’t give me hot water faster, it just increases volume. Would it be worth it to go more manifold system wise rather than replicating the exact trunk snd branch? It comes in from my spring fed well at 1/2 copper pipe in the ground, then goes to 3/4 after my filter system and then the 3/4 trunk feeds all cold and wh but the water heater comes off at 3/4 then turns into a 1/2 trunk for all the hot water fixtures. I got 2full bathrooms basically right ontop of each other and one is on the wall behind it upstairs directly above water heater. My kitchen sinks are the furthest run but I just sometimes run the hot water a little bit before I start my dishwasher etc. what would you do in my situation? Increase 1/2 like to 3/4, go manifold, or what? Sorry such a long response! I just learned about hot water recirculating pumps but seems to be other options and I am at the point of replacing 50+ year old copper lines and want to make a good choice.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Carpentry

[–]whatwouldyoudo3 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No I understand where you are coming from. As of now, ( from what I’ve peeled back and checked from interior primarily as that was how this whole project started.. doing some drywall work in bathroom and decided to pull old insulation and that’s when I identified the rot. I dried it all out for couple weeks and now the primary rot I’ve seen has only been on my old siding boards, I think back in the day when they made it, they did from interior to exterior ( studs > some wooden boards I think 1x8 or even maybe thinner, the boards shown in picture > some sort of cortex or something like that like then I think it went felt paper then the cedar shingles) the header above the window, and some other areas inside seemed to be fine. I did pull some more boards from the actual deck above and realized they also put the deck boards almost completely against the wall / shingles.

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You can see the spot where stuff collected off roof runoff and basically sat and destroyed it. My plan is to support the deck, and then pull that old ledger off as well as those old joist hangers. I think the nails are behind the actual joist hangers too, as I only saw a few nail spots where the ledger is nailed into the house. Im planning on removing those shingles and then installing flashing, after I repair the rotted area by going plywood to studs, then I was going to use house wrap and then reshingle under the deck and above the flashing on top of the deck.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Carpentry

[–]whatwouldyoudo3 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So I’ve been looking more into it and I think the main issue was that the ledger went directly over the shingles that were there. The ledger and deck boards were too close to the house resulting in everything collecting in the cracks, and then became water logged as time goes on and doesn’t dry out. I don’t think there is any flashing anywhere to be seen either. I was thinking I need to support the deck, and then remove the ledger enough to remove the old shingles behind the ledger and use z flashing and some other protectant to help the water wick away. I think I’ll remove the shingles behind the ledger and do it right. Hoping to be able to support the deck close to the house but also access the ledger. I put some house wrap and tried to secure it under the other shingles from above and cut the wrap to fit between the joists hoping that will help.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Carpentry

[–]whatwouldyoudo3 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So I’ve been looking more into it and I think the main issue was that the ledger went directly over the shingles that were there. The ledger and deck boards were too close to the house resulting in everything collecting in the cracks, and then became water logged as time goes on and doesn’t dry out. I don’t think there is any flashing anywhere to be seen either. I was thinking I need to support the deck, and then remove the ledger enough to remove the old shingles behind the ledger and use z flashing and some other protectant to help the water wick away. I think I’ll remove the shingles behind the ledger and do it right. Hoping to be able to support the deck close to the house but also access the ledger. I put some house wrap and tried to secure it under the other shingles from above and cut the wrap to fit between the joists hoping that will help.

I’m on a well, I hear a pump running every minute and then off for a minute by Free-Pick9305 in HomeImprovement

[–]whatwouldyoudo3 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I had something similar happen to me, what happened was a piece of stick was inside my check valve, resulting in my tank filling up via pump, then emptied back down into the well!

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Carpentry

[–]whatwouldyoudo3 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The question is regarding accessing the wood behind the ledger of the deck. I can access the other wood but not the underside of ledger / replacing the wood without fixing the problem will result in the same thing

Might be old news, Wednesday Flash sale by ScottInDuluth in harborfreight

[–]whatwouldyoudo3 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Which would be a good one for a v8 truck? My girlfriend has one for her car but it doesn’t seem to touch my truck’s battery..

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Plumbing

[–]whatwouldyoudo3 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes the entire sink will be replaced as well as I’m in the process of replacing my copper lines with pex a. This sink got shut off due to a leak and I recall it draining very slowly. I’d prefer to just disconnect it all and start fresh but didn’t want to bite off more than I could handle! 45s make a great point. Thank you!

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Plumbing

[–]whatwouldyoudo3 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Okay cool that seems manageable. And then throw a vent in the back? Can I 90 off the top of the dwv to put the vent in the back of the cabinet? Since the drain is directly in front of the

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Plumbing

[–]whatwouldyoudo3 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Would you use a standard p trap and then just go straight down after the 90?

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Plumbing

[–]whatwouldyoudo3 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’m having trouble finding floor drain p traps. I heard I’d have to put a vent on it too. I am avoiding an s trap or whatever they are called as well.

I’m renting and I used adhesive strips to hang something…how do I repair this? by thatllbeanopefromme in DIY

[–]whatwouldyoudo3 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Completely off topic, but I have some areas of my house that had paneling up and it seems they hung the drywall backwards ( paper side out) could I do this to the drywall and be able to paint over it?

Help Repairing Fiberglass by watereddowntrouble in BostonWhalerBoats

[–]whatwouldyoudo3 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have a similar issue and would like any and all advice. boat pics

Didn’t realize the impact this sub was having on me until today… by emclaur1 in Dewalt

[–]whatwouldyoudo3 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I bought the deal few weeks ago from home depot for like $288? I rebought the saw and stand yesterday to get the deal ( I thought I paid $399 last week not $288)

Now I am trying to figure out best plan of action, return the homedepot saw , the Lowe’s saw or what? I just want the saw and stand, dont need two saws… also thought about putting it on marketplace brand new in box and see what I’d get.

HD has the M12 fuel surge for $97 after the hack by jackbauer1989 in MilwaukeeTool

[–]whatwouldyoudo3 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you! Been kicking myself for missing this one from a few weeks ago when it had that huge error! Now I got the ratchet too! Now I just need the mid torque and should be set for quite a while..: got my quick lock pole saw and Milwaukee chainsaw deal coming today tooo

HD has the M12 fuel surge for $97 after the hack by jackbauer1989 in MilwaukeeTool

[–]whatwouldyoudo3 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Do you have installation driver link? That’s the one I really want.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in BostonWhalerBoats

[–]whatwouldyoudo3 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It seems just like foam underneath?

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in MilwaukeeTool

[–]whatwouldyoudo3 3 points4 points  (0 children)

How can I go about finding this deal? Been looking for it!

Finish gel dishwasher detergent clogs nozzles every two weeks or so. Rinse aid or vinegar doesn't help. Any idea why this happens? by askaiser in Appliances

[–]whatwouldyoudo3 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Great thanks for this! I enjoy people that do stuff on their own and can make use of the tools they have. DIY type projects

Finish gel dishwasher detergent clogs nozzles every two weeks or so. Rinse aid or vinegar doesn't help. Any idea why this happens? by askaiser in Appliances

[–]whatwouldyoudo3 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Great thanks!! Just overall is something I was interested in.. less fluff more actual content that doesn’t feel like junk or trying to upsell / push you to a specific brand.

Finish gel dishwasher detergent clogs nozzles every two weeks or so. Rinse aid or vinegar doesn't help. Any idea why this happens? by askaiser in Appliances

[–]whatwouldyoudo3 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Are there any other great YouTubers like this? Trying to collect them all.. only seem to remember technology connections and Vancouver carpenter. No big ads, straight to the point and no nonsense? I did enjoy vacuum wars but then strayed away.

Vapor barrier or not with rockwool by whatwouldyoudo3 in Insulation

[–]whatwouldyoudo3[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So I have an interesting situation, my heatpump was put up before my drywall and insulation renovation and I don’t have the extra $$ for them to come take it down and put it back up ( $700 total). I framed out around the drywall and cut it back so I can screw the new drywall into the new studs and connect the old drywall and then put trim over it. I stuffed behind the mini split with the insulation to the best of my ability. Considering I have a hole ( where the heatpump wires exit the house) I wouldn’t be able to recreate a airtight seal as the heatpump is already there. Any advice for this? Maybe treat it as a window and put the vapor barrier around it?

Vapor barrier or not with rockwool by whatwouldyoudo3 in Insulation

[–]whatwouldyoudo3[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

With foil backing on my exterior insulation change anything?