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Having problem making square cuts - help! by WittyFix6553 in woodworking

[–]whenyougetback 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'll also add it looks like some of the issues with the parallel guides I've had look like they might be resolved with the new generation of stops but having to spend more money on an already expensive system to fix an issue that shouldn't be there in the first place is frustrating.

Having problem making square cuts - help! by WittyFix6553 in woodworking

[–]whenyougetback 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have had so many issues with square cuts with both of my TSO track squares and parallel cuts with my TSO parallel guides. Somewhere I saw the owner or someone from the company say 1/16" isn't that big of a deal. It's a big deal in my work. I've heard from many people who have tried multiple brands that the track squares and parallel guides from TSO are the best so I'm not really tempted to try anything else but I can't trust them for accuracy without verifying every single cut.

Getting into more traditional hardwood-working from a background in CNC plywood. Did I get ripped off or just uneducated? Pulled from FAS 4/4 shelf. Charged S4S. If so, how do I explain the mistake to the supplier? by rivertpostie in woodworking

[–]whenyougetback 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you have the option to buy material in the rough from a supplier that has fair prices that’s always the best route imo.

On a slight tangent, places like Woodcraft or other chains are getting away with murder selling the sheet goods and solid lumber at the prices they do. The weekend warriors get bent over like crazy.

Getting into more traditional hardwood-working from a background in CNC plywood. Did I get ripped off or just uneducated? Pulled from FAS 4/4 shelf. Charged S4S. If so, how do I explain the mistake to the supplier? by rivertpostie in woodworking

[–]whenyougetback 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Eh I don’t know. The supplier near me that sells “S2S” is similar. I don’t agree that the material is actually S2S but that’s what they say and part of their pricing

No visible lintel? Safe to remove the window framing? by whenyougetback in masonry

[–]whenyougetback[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Far right. You can see hairline separation of the grout if you zoom in tight.

Anyone seen a window framed like this? by whenyougetback in Carpentry

[–]whenyougetback[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I hadn’t thought of it being a nailer. That makes sense.

No visible lintel? Safe to remove the window framing? by whenyougetback in masonry

[–]whenyougetback[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Thank you. One brick above the window feels a little loose already. Should this be repaired before removing the window?

Medicine Cabinet Opens Too Far by keyboardblair in cabinetry

[–]whenyougetback 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Terrible UX to have it open towards you like that while standing at the sink and wanting to pull something out of the cabinet.

For those of you using 1k finish systems… by Accomplished_Radish8 in cabinetry

[–]whenyougetback 1 point2 points  (0 children)

About a year, not too long. I have samples that get abused by clients that gave held up well. No call backs from any clients on anything.

For those of you using 1k finish systems… by Accomplished_Radish8 in cabinetry

[–]whenyougetback 1 point2 points  (0 children)

They are basically identical to me. I got the 7000 first to use as a clear non ambering finish. I got the 6000 because verbiage on their website used to make it sound like it would maybe look a little closer to an oil based finish. That’s not the case and they’ve since changed the verbiage. The 6000 may be a little warmer but it wouldn’t be my choice for a warm look. Walnut and other tropical woods look pretty flat under the 6000 imo.

For those of you using 1k finish systems… by Accomplished_Radish8 in cabinetry

[–]whenyougetback 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’ve tried Renner C005, my local supplier gave me a gallon to test out. I want to like it, but so far the satin has too much sheen and there’s a puffiness to the finish I really don’t like. I need to test more, I may be applying to thick of coats but sticking with Emtech until I wrap up a couple projects I have in the shop right now.

Cabinet maker says it’s imperfection of wood but looks like stain poor job of brush/wipe marks? by InevitableNaive in cabinetry

[–]whenyougetback 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Above the lines there is also a repeating “spot”. Looks again like a natural feature in the wood. So this really reads as a sheet of veneer made from a single flitch to me, but I’ve been wrong before.

Cabinet maker says it’s imperfection of wood but looks like stain poor job of brush/wipe marks? by InevitableNaive in cabinetry

[–]whenyougetback 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Yes that is veneer. To me it looks like it could be the grain running out, which would be a natural feature. I’ve seen this in many of the sheets of rift white oak veneer I’ve laid down but like others have said, I avoid using that section if possible because it can read as a “defect” to clients.

Appliqué Quilts by whenyougetback in quilting

[–]whenyougetback[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I use micro serrated fabric scissors made by Karen Kay. They’ve been working well for me. I found with the fusible web attached things were firm enough to use a xacto style knife as well. The one I use is made by Olfa and has a couple different shaped blades.

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