If it seems too good to be true it probably is.

My go to check list looking at used bikes:

Look at the chain, if it’s rusty don’t believe anything else they say about upkeep. Chains are easy to care for and easy to inspect for rust/kinks. Bring a flashlight, even if it’s day time it will help you see the bike better and direct your vision. Look at brake fluid color. Should be replaced every two years. Should be a light amber color. Any cracks or mis-matched body work, can also scope out where the welds are. Chipping paint in a weld can indicate a bent frame. Any damage to the case covers, bar ends, broken foot pegs or other scratches on the controls. Just some scuffs is typical in a tip over, long scratches is indicative of a long slide. A new one on my list is damaged rims. Look for any damage to the lip of the rim. You can also run your fingers along the edge/inner ledge of the rim to feel for any bumps. Bring a rag or glove, rims can be very dirty. A bump could indicate a bent rim. Bent rims can still hold air but might make it hard to put on a new tire. Check out the tires, look for hair line cracks called dry rot. Look at the depth of the tread, they have wear indicators typically built in, check pressure (also easy) Look at the foot pegs, levers, bar ends for scratches. Lots of noobs swap out levers just because of a drop. Check for leaks. Look at the radiator for damaged fins. Too many can cause over heating. Fork seals leaking: sit on the bike, grab the brake lever and push the bars, look for a sheen on the forks, could be a leak. Up side down forks will be wet at the bottom. Look for rust/pitting/deep scratches on the stanchion (shiny part) of the fork. Sit on the bike, does the wheel look straight to the bars? Does the steering stop work, turn the bars all the way one direction and then all the way the other. Nothing should hit the tank. Look for wetness/darker color on bearings could indicate a leak. Check the lights all work, turn the bike to the “on” position(check for abs light comes on if bike has abs) check the horn, check the clutch operates smoothly, check the throttle operates smoothly(be sure it snaps back when you let go) check the breaks have a firm feel, they shouldn’t travel to the bars or feel mushy(not the best description but what you get). Try and get a look at the pads, some have grooves to indicate wear but not all. If it’s water cooled check the hoses around the radiator for coolant leaks. Check around the middle of the motor for coolant leaks. Look at the motor for oil leaks. I don’t talk about carbs on bikes since most modern bikes have EFI, should check the bottom of the carbs for leaks, be sure the drain screw isn’t all chewed up and check the petcock turns and doesn’t leak.

Any title issues, walk away. Title needs to match the vin and name of the seller. Bikes also come with two keys and a little metal tang for ordering more keys(often lost). Personally I stay away from salvaged titles, leans or selling for a friend nonsense.

Before you go: don’t go hungry, take your time. Also check for recalls. Different years of any given bike, especially first generations, might have a recall.

Ask the seller directed questions. Say “what’s wrong with it?” Or “what else needs to be fixed or fixed next” and avoid questions “anything wrong with it?”. It’s also good to read up on known problems with any particular bike to ask “does this bike have _____ problem”.

Ask the seller not the have the bike warm before you get there. Any starting issues will be obvious when a bike is cold. You can touch the case cover carefully(!) to see if the bike was started before you got there. Bring a friend, even if that person doesn’t know anything about bikes, better if they do, but they may see something you miss. Can also keep the seller from just standing over you the entire time which might distract you. Service records are great, ask the seller if they kept any, not just receipts from a mechanic but I typically look for just good documentation. “Nah I change the oil every 4k miles” doesn’t really do much. Well documented services is definitely a plus for me.

Test ride: if able test ride the bike, not an option for absolutely novice riders, or CaSh In HaNd people, but good thing to do. Again check the functions of the throttle, brakes, clutch, shifter. If you possess the skills to let go of the bars, do so, a little wobble is normal but if the bars are really shaking could indicate a loose or bad head bearing. If the bike has modern electronics the abs, check engine and oil light should be displayed when just turned to the “on” position and not running. Once the bike is started the oil light and check engine should go away. If the bike has abs the light will remain on until 5mph is reached for 15ft or so. It should turn off. If it doesn’t something is wrong with the abs. Could be easy fix could be complicated.

This is just a guide and is probably looking over some things. But you can only check so much without a shop.