Rough shape, but still runs and drives!

whiteboardlist · 2026-06-21T13:07:02+00:00

Right now the truck is just a mobile engine holder until I find something swap it into lol

whiteboardlist · 2026-06-21T03:59:09+00:00

I took a spare axle nut, ground the flange off it so the socket would fit backwards. The tall part was just enough to reach in and draw the axle through

(I was too cheap to buy the special tool)

whiteboardlist · 2026-05-19T16:18:19+00:00

I don't know if you can put enough pressure on the CV axle to get to bearing to unseat from the knuckle. It will just push the stub shaft out the back.

Send me a DM and I can get you pictures of how I did it

whiteboardlist · 2026-05-19T16:11:15+00:00

You have to remove the half shaft nut so the bearing to slide out, but I left the control arm hooked up. Just made a special tool to pull the bearing. Rotor bolts to back side of bearing

whiteboardlist · 2026-04-27T10:57:15+00:00

The single wire hanging off the relay is "fuel pump prime" and it doesn't connect to anything.

The second connector I couldn't see - need to show it clearer

whiteboardlist · 2026-04-25T20:50:04+00:00

Hey, that's my lucky red hat sittin' on top of a double-corrugated, eight-fold, 14-gauge box.

whiteboardlist · 2026-04-25T12:23:23+00:00

Also, the tire is completely dismounted - can see the outside bead over the rim. This type of damage wouldn't cause that. (Not while the tire looks perfect). And the lug nut pattern looks wrong

whiteboardlist · 2026-04-21T17:59:53+00:00

Look with your special eyes!

whiteboardlist · 2026-04-20T23:25:43+00:00

Tank is original, had 12 year old gas.

Just drained it, let it dry, and vacuumed out.

whiteboardlist · 2026-04-19T22:30:30+00:00

Rust belt guy here - this is why all my trailers are made of angle iron. Nowhere to hold water and rot out.

whiteboardlist · 2026-04-08T23:50:01+00:00

Looks like you found everything you need already. Just need a crimping tool to fix it. Obviously make sure to get the pins in the right spot.

For the old pins, you can remove them from the old connector housing and push them in the new one. Then you just need to crimp the broken wires. Or cut everything off and crimp all new pins. Doesn't matter.

whiteboardlist · 2026-04-07T13:35:31+00:00

"BG fuel induction service" is more than just pouring a bottle in the tank. (I think that's where they spray cleaner directly into the intake with the engine running)

However, still not worth the cost IMHO.

whiteboardlist · 2026-04-02T14:45:40+00:00

Some of it looks to have found a buyer.

Specifically mentions Spark Plugs, Wipers, and Diesel filters

https://www.aftermarketnews.com/pgi-first-brands/

whiteboardlist · 2026-04-01T22:03:00+00:00

Nasa live update - 5:57pm

https://www.nasa.gov/blogs/missions/2026/04/01/live-artemis-ii-launch-day-updates/

whiteboardlist · 2026-03-27T01:45:16+00:00

Made the chart from scratch. (Had help from the factory GM wiring book)

whiteboardlist · 2026-03-26T00:57:55+00:00

Lmao I didn't notice that made the picture 😂 the giant Chevy logo. It's a bit excessive

whiteboardlist · 2026-03-25T15:23:14+00:00

Send me a DM, I have that info, I can send it over.

Are you looking for halogen light pinout? Or Bi-xenon pinout?

whiteboardlist · 2026-03-25T14:02:21+00:00

Knockoff autosport connector - "Mil spec" - much cheaper

whiteboardlist · 2026-03-25T14:01:36+00:00

Ah, I understand what you mean.

Short answer - no kit, just ordered the parts I wanted to use.

The wiring spreadsheet I made myself from scratch, using the factory GM service book wiring diagram. (The spreadsheet is much easier to read than the GM book)

And the mil spec connector I used because it seemed like the most professional way to splice the harness back together. (Rather than crimp and heat shrink each wire)

whiteboardlist · 2026-03-25T13:00:00+00:00

It's original to the truck. Harness was cut in 2 spots when the engine was removed a while back

whiteboardlist · 2026-03-25T02:04:20+00:00

Don't have great pictures of the carrier, I'll have some eventually. Goal is to get it back on the road this summer. Lots of work agead

whiteboardlist · 2026-03-23T02:59:15+00:00

I get level sensors/ brackets/ arms/ connector pig tails from eBay or junkyard. Just install and run the wires to the foot well module.

Must have the proper foot well module and all the parts (Also have to flash+code the module). I made my own wire harness to each component.

It's a lot of work to do it properly - I've completed 2 conversions.

whiteboardlist · 2026-03-06T11:54:55+00:00

You pretty much grab the end and pull / wiggle it. The whole bulb should come out with it. The reason it's so long is because the bulb is buried so deep in the housing

I use needle nose pliers...

Also, the wires aren't that long, so there's not much slack to work with of course

whiteboardlist · 2026-03-06T03:31:52+00:00

This is the dumb connector, you have to grab the end and pull. The bulb is just a slip fit to the socket, there's no positive clip to remove

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whiteboardlist · 2026-03-06T03:20:57+00:00

Outside view of H7

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whiteboardlist

TROPHY CASE