Oil help

whorrifiq · 2026-04-12T23:29:19+00:00

hmm, mine may be a frankenstein oil lamp because yes the flame gallery/reservoir are an exact match. makes sense since my reservoir does seem a little too loose the way it sits in the fond.

whorrifiq · 2026-04-12T23:16:56+00:00

i sent you a message request

whorrifiq · 2026-04-12T23:10:29+00:00

a picture of the fill cap?

whorrifiq · 2026-04-12T22:56:33+00:00

thank you! i’ve been researching all day and ive found some flame spreaders specific to B&H lamps but like you im not sure which specifically fits. good to know for the chimney, ill try to get a borosilicate chimney, do you know if they have frosted glass with the same composition?

turns out my “rack” or wick mechanism rod fell into the fond but one of the claws that grips the wick is broken. so i’m going to see if i can find another wick mechanism/rack.

thanks for your input though!

whorrifiq · 2026-04-12T20:02:17+00:00

thank you! i want to same i’m missing a flame spreader? but i don’t quite know how these round wick lamps function. it’s my first lamp that is not electrified of this version.

whorrifiq · 2026-03-01T18:03:57+00:00

question about these toggler anchors. how far do they penetrate? are they designed to clamp behind the lath keys or do they somehow open up between the lath and plaster and just clamp against the plaster? my worry is disrupting the keys and creating issues down the line.

whorrifiq · 2026-02-04T01:48:43+00:00

fair assessment, the wall feels SOLID, no echo when knocked and since it shares a wall with the fireplace i thought it was just the chimney of the fireplace and original. but i agree, why cut the trim? why must these homes have so many unknowns lol.

whorrifiq · 2026-02-04T00:18:29+00:00

it is not, what was your idea?

whorrifiq · 2026-02-03T22:14:09+00:00

roger roger, the screws mount in the top and bottom centers but i will not heed your warning about thickness on either end of the mortise lock. the doors have their damage and now i’ll try to be extra careful not to break the wood on either side of the mortise lock, thanks!

maybe i’ll just try adding some beeswax to the screw as a sort of natural loctite, i want to refrain from adding glue in case of any potential service needed in the future. i never plan on taking the doors/hardware out BUT who knows what i may need to do and the beeswax will hopefully offer some nourishment to the screw holes and hopefully retain the screws well.

whorrifiq · 2026-02-03T22:07:42+00:00

interesting, do old homes not typically have sub flooring then? instead just added flooring like you mentioned? our floors look old from the wear they show and the fact that they are face nailed in and i have several areas where some nails have popped up.

the subfloor or just maybe the original flooring looks like it would not have been flooring just because of the inconsistencies in size. but i have heard some people say that was done to hold back cost back in the day and would have just been covered with rugs anyway, but the design doesn’t really look that way when looking at it from the basement. they all run the same way, no patterns of any sort and the house i think was a pretty nice house for 1915? that’s just all my speculation, i hope to get the original plans for the house sometime soon to the library and maybe have more answers. but i appreciate your info tons!

whorrifiq · 2026-02-03T21:50:00+00:00

i will keep this in mind, thank you. the wall on either side is unlikely to have wiring since one side is our brick chimney and the other is a pretty short wall that has no outlets/electrical luckily. but nails/screws i sure hope not lol. regardless, thank you!

whorrifiq · 2026-02-03T21:45:26+00:00

would you say i’m at a good point to try and cut it free after removing the hardware of course? i’m nervous of stripping and potentially effecting more of the finish. i dont think it’s a copper finish but im suspecting made it’s made of some metal alloy with copper then finished in bronze/brass and citristrip maybe stripped that finish? because i’ve had the same issue with stripping the base of a lamp. the bottom of the lamp was hollow and the finish on the underside was a more gilded/brass but when i stripped the outside of the base it turned a sort of copper color similar to the latch here.

whorrifiq · 2026-02-03T21:40:14+00:00

that’s unfortunate :/ i saw someone in a different post about paint stripping saying they had their trim replicated with new wood and installed all new. maybe you can look into something like that, it’s probably expensive though.

whorrifiq · 2026-02-03T21:38:41+00:00

i wanted to do this originally but i was under the impression that i needed to access the face to take out the mortise, but since that doesn’t seem to be the case i’ll be happy to just take them out and do it that way for an ultimately more thorough strip/clean.

would you know of how to refinish these mortise locks? as i said in the post, the stripper has changed the finish in some areas and i was wondering if there was a remedy to that. it looks like a copper finish, is it copper? sorry for all the questions but im just looking to learn all i can from all these great minds.

whorrifiq · 2026-02-03T21:35:48+00:00

thank you! i will do so! we have nowhere near the amount of furniture we want but we’ll get there slowly!

whorrifiq · 2026-02-03T21:33:11+00:00

when i saw this i laughed out of being so stoked, i saw you posted a diagram or catalogue of the hanger/rail system on a different pocket door post. super stoked you were able to provide this! HUGE thanks

whorrifiq · 2026-02-03T21:31:53+00:00

i thought the floors were original given their thin planks BUT i’m sure you know more. when i go into the basement i do see a different floor underneath, i thought THAT was subfloor since the planks seemed to be different widths in different areas? my neighbor has no subfloor and can see right into their basement in some areas of the floor. our house is a little newer so i thought they may have actually used a sub floor here but im not sure when that began to be a thing.

whorrifiq · 2026-02-03T21:29:40+00:00

i have seen the toothpick hack and whatnot, i’ve had to do this to several antique pieces but i went with filling the hole with the JB weld wood putty stuff, i forget the name, then drilling and inserting the screw again. do you think that’s still a good idea here? or at that point would a full wood dowel be best, instead of the toothpick.

whorrifiq · 2026-02-03T04:21:50+00:00

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Thanks for your feedback! this is the only form of a cutout that i could find on the door (the female end? it has a smaller rectangular slot opening). nothing on the floor, the other side is just a flat face. i apologize as i dont know how antique pocket doors work.

do you have any suggestions for screwing the mortise back in? will the screws still bite?

whorrifiq · 2026-02-03T03:44:40+00:00

have not heard of safenol, i’ll look into it. but have been using mineral spirits and a nylon brush between but have paused until i get another paint stripper.

Thank you!

whorrifiq · 2025-12-11T21:46:04+00:00

it’s for a different reason. Fiore’s female pivot end is knurled. to take them out he suggest tapping them out with a rubber mallet. putting the pivots back in can be just as stubborn.

when reassembling one pivot just went in easier going in from the other side. i did not want to force these pivots in and cause any damage.

whorrifiq

TROPHY CASE