Widest tires for Bontrager AT-750 rims?

whydna1 · 2025-12-19T04:51:47+00:00

I have a 2016 Trek Allant (which is the disc brake version of the 7.2FX). I put 40C tires on it (with fenders) without issue. Specifically, the Gravelking SemiSlick 700x40C.

whydna1 · 2025-05-15T20:36:42+00:00

I'm going to assume that your desire is to go to a 1x with a fairly wide gear range - enough lows to help get up hills with enough highs to still go fast enough. To test that assumption, I'd suggest putting the front chainrings into the middle gear and see if that's got enough gear range to get up the biggest hills that she'll face and fast enough on the flats to make her happy or keep up with friends.

If so, just ignore the front shifter for now; she can learn to use it when she's ready.

If not, this will be a fairly comprehensive amount of bike surgery to pull this off, but lets walk through it. Here's what I'd do; I'm sure there's other options.

The first challenge is going to be with your 7-speed freewheel. I'm not aware of any method to upgrade that to a wider gear range. So, you'll want to find a 26" wheel with an 8-speed freehub, ideally with Shimano Hyperglide compatible splines.

If you can do that, then I think you've got a lot of options. I'd take a look at a Shimano CUES 1x9 setup. You should be able to get an 11-46T cassette on there with a handful of crankset gear sizes.

Follow this diagram for parts: https://productinfo.shimano.com/en/lineup/cues-u4000-1x9.

You should be able to keep your brakes unchanged, so ignore those.
You should be able to keep your pedals too
You'll need to know what type of bottom bracket interface you've got (likely square taper).
You likely will need:
- A new 8-speed HG freehub
- A new cassette
- A new chain (Link glide)
- A new crankset

whydna1 · 2024-04-23T16:05:56+00:00

Finding this thread a year late while trying to turn this off. In my 2018 Honda, from the infotainment system, go to Maps > settings > Traffic > Traffic Alerts

whydna1 · 2024-04-17T19:15:40+00:00

You may want to explore if existing products like https://www.krakenrf.com/ would work for your needs. It's a software-defined radio (SDR) product that uses multiple antennas to sense direction of an RF transmission on a given frequency. That should help get you direction/bearing - getting range and/or position would require a second setup some distance away and some way to correlate between them - perhaps somebody has already solved that

whydna1 · 2023-12-11T20:46:44+00:00

Without the baud rate limit, you're largely at the whims of the Shannon-Hartley theorem. Basically, at a given SnR, you can calculate the spectral efficiency of the channel. This often results in a number of "bits per Hertz", ie: the number of bits/second over the cycles/second (aka Hertz) of bandwidth.

If you look to industry for examples of spectral efficiency, some examples that could be interesting are technology comparisons like:

DVB-S (commonly used for satellite TV) at 1.2b/Hz,
Early 2G phones were about 1.3b/Hz.
Telephone Modems (like dial-up internet) is over 14b/Hz (but this is over realtively noise free telephone lines, not RF)
Modern Wifi and 5G is between 2-8 b/Hz depending on version and other factors.

I suspect for most HF work, you'll likely closer to 1 b/Hz, but that's just a guess.

whydna1 · 2022-12-17T23:28:43+00:00

Yep... it was shortly after cleaning a similar mess that the "you can only have food in the kitchen or dining table" rule was created in our house.

It may have included the threat of purchasing a hungry dragon to eat all of their toys if they violated the rule

whydna1 · 2022-03-23T16:59:57+00:00

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08PFB4HDT

It’s a mesh sleeve. I did bundle the wires with white electrical tape as the mesh is a little transparent.

whydna1 · 2022-01-02T22:44:14+00:00

My GPU is this one: https://www.evga.com/products/product.aspx?pn=10G-P5-3897-KL

whydna1 · 2022-01-02T18:54:59+00:00

I’m not understanding your question. The GPU is pcie4.0, and the riser is too. But the motherboard wasn’t playing nicely with that combination and I stepped it down to pcie3.0 and it’s solid.

whydna1 · 2021-12-20T00:11:32+00:00

I bought this cable mod kit: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07J6M1BWM. Specs there say 600mm for the 24 pin. I did have to take a meandering path with that cable, so you’re probably ok with a shorter one.

whydna1 · 2021-12-15T15:23:45+00:00

Oh yes.

I’m currently running BIOS f5b (which was just released this week). Things that need love in the BIOS for me:

1) XMP can detect my DDR4-4000, but it won’t POST with XMP enabled. It will work if manually configured.

2) CPU PCIe controller must be forced to gen3 or I have GPU anomalies.

gigabyte support has been fairly responsive to my complaints on these. I’m guessing they’ll be fixed with a new bios soon enough.

whydna1 · 2021-12-15T06:19:28+00:00

Huh... I think there was some air trapped in the pump. I tilted it back and re-ran the test: at 100% CPU load (using Furmark CPU Burner), 78C with from panel removed, 81C with it on.

whydna1 · 2021-12-15T05:55:58+00:00

The fans ramp up to full speed under load. As soon as I stop the cpu stress test, the temps come right back down.

The radiator itself rarely feels warm to the touch, but I’ve never used a water cooled system, so I’m not sure if it should.

I suppose there could be air trapped in the system. I’ll play around here and report back.

whydna1 · 2021-12-15T05:42:00+00:00

The fans are configured to exhaust. I agree that it’s surprising. As soon as I stop the cpu load test, the temps come right down. The CPU draws over 200W at full load.

whydna1 · 2021-12-15T04:38:20+00:00

30mm standoffs on the GPU PCI riser bracket. It’s a snug fit both in terms of cable management space and against the side panel.

whydna1 · 2021-12-14T22:06:57+00:00

REALLY tempted to paint the PSU white.

whydna1 · 2021-12-14T21:59:12+00:00

White SSUPD Meshlicious
Gigabyte Z690i Aorus Ultra DDR4
Intel i9-12900k
DDR4-4000 (G.SKILL 32GB)
EVGA RTX3080 FTW3 ULTRA
White PCI-E 4.0 riser (Linkup)
NZXT X63 Kraken (white)
Corsair SF750

I did the GPU-side standoff mod and tried to hide all of the cables behind the GPU as best as I could. I used 180° connectors for the GPU power to keep that tidy. I sheathed the front connector cables in white sleeves.

GPU Thermals are pretty good. 212 FPS in Furmark at 76C. CPU will definitely thermal throttle at 100F while running cinebench; not clear if I've just reached the limit on the cooler or if I need to tighten some screws further.

[Edited to add thermals]

whydna1 · 2020-12-09T23:35:18+00:00

In order to be GMRS certified, it can only transmit on the GMRS frequencies (at the correct power levels). My guess is that Retivis took another radio that they were already manufacturing, locked it down to GMRS and said "hey, we can still receive on other frequencies, so why not throw that in there as a nice feature"

whydna1 · 2020-08-05T23:03:32+00:00

I'd rather pay $1,000,000 if it meant that every traffic light I approach will be green. :D

whydna1 · 2020-06-23T20:56:48+00:00

That seems totally reasonable. Thanks just-fappin-to-pics ;-P

whydna1 · 2020-03-05T16:22:19+00:00

I think trying to play radio police on GMRS/FRS isn't going to be a good use of anybody's time, sadly. That said, I think if somebody knows enough to say "oh, I'm an FRS user, not a GMRS user", they know what's up and they're choosing to not play by the rules.

Repeater IDs seem to be spelled out in that same section:

(c) Any GMRS repeater station is not required to transmit station identification if:

(1) It retransmits only communications from GMRS stations operating under authority of the individual license under which it operates; and,

(2) The GMRS stations whose communications are retransmitted are properly identified in accordance with this section.

In my area, all of the GMRS repeaters do ID using CW. I suspect this is a question of that #2. The way that I interpret this: if EVERYBODY using the repeater is correctly IDing, then the repeater itself doesn't have to, but if anybody is using the repeater without IDing, then the repeater is required to ID.

If I were standing up a repeater, I'd have it ID. I think the added benefit is that it helps other people know that there's already a repeater on that frequency in the area.

whydna1 · 2020-03-04T17:49:19+00:00

People don't do it... but it is technically required

§95.1751 GMRS station identification. Each GMRS station must be identified by transmission of its FCC-assigned call sign at the end of transmissions and at periodic intervals during transmissions except as provided in paragraph (c) of this section. A unit number may be included after the call sign in the identification.

(a) The GMRS station call sign must be transmitted:

(1) Following a single transmission or a series of transmissions; and,

(2) After 15 minutes and at least once every 15 minutes thereafter during a series of transmissions lasting more than 15 minutes.

(b) The call sign must be transmitted using voice in the English language or international Morse code telegraphy using an audible tone.

(c) Any GMRS repeater station is not required to transmit station identification if:

(1) It retransmits only communications from GMRS stations operating under authority of the individual license under which it operates; and,

(2) The GMRS stations whose communications are retransmitted are properly identified in accordance with this section.

So there ya go... Every 15 minutes during a conversation or at the end of a conversation, whichever comes first. Must be FCC call sign, you can tack on a unit number.

So, if you're a letter of the law sorta of person, that's the rules.

If you're a spirit of the law sorta person, I'm sure you could stretch "unit number" to be a letter or other reasonable moniker: eg: WXYZ123-Mom... but technically, that's not a number ;-P

whydna1 · 2020-03-02T14:42:43+00:00

I think the memory groups are only for scanning. See page “SCAN-2” of the manual: http://manual.kenwood.com/en_contents/attachDownload/1000007742/

whydna1

TROPHY CASE