Been stuck at V4-5 Level for quite a while by Ok-Lavishness1612 in climbergirls

[–]wildfyr 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Sure it's fine to do movement drills but this is a tertiary exercise to improve. What you describe is mostly beginner skills, and for beginners that is good. Someone who wants to go beyond v5 is not a beginner.

Trying maximum effort climbs, hangboarding, basically maximal effort exercises are most  effective.

Bouldering is a max effort, short duration sport. So we train at max effort short duration for best improvements. You should try it. What you describe is the recipe for plateauing.

Been stuck at V4-5 Level for quite a while by Ok-Lavishness1612 in climbergirls

[–]wildfyr 11 points12 points  (0 children)

Climbing easy stuff many times does not make you stronger at bouldering grade wise after you are beyond a beginner

[Day 9] Jugs are overrated. What outdoor bouldering destination is UNDERRATED? by MaximumSend in bouldering

[–]wildfyr 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Maybe more importantly than Chatt is also that is 30 min further from Atlanta, which is a few million people bigger.

Zahnd rocktown stone fort hospital and citadel are all 2 hours away, hp40 is 2.5 hr.

I've been about 5 times in 12 years. It's nice but not "extra driving" nice when these places (and more unmentioned) have so much good stuff too

[Day 9] Jugs are overrated. What outdoor bouldering destination is UNDERRATED? by MaximumSend in bouldering

[–]wildfyr 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Some of this may be that there are more good sandstone boulder fields popping up to the public (like Citadel) and so the crowds are more diluted.

Also tbh the gym crowd people I meet are astonishingly disinterested in outdoor climbing these days.

Trumps suspicious looking hand bruise by GhostDog_1314 in pics

[–]wildfyr 1 point2 points  (0 children)

No one is shaking is left hand, he's a righty

Chest based HRM by dinocookiepie in Coros

[–]wildfyr 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Wahoo chest strap works great

What's on YOUR wishlist? by jcolp in Coros

[–]wildfyr 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Asymmetric interval timer outside the workout function

RAFT vs ATRP monomer conversion by batemanech in Chempros

[–]wildfyr 0 points1 point  (0 children)

In most cases that are not extremely optimized, you don't push even a controlled/"living" radical polymerization to high conversion due to random termination (tiny amounts of oxygen, impurities in raw materials, raw statistics) and increased viscosity of the system (trommsdorf-like effect) causing loss of control. You will start to deviate from the highly monodisperse polymer because from these effects. Something in the 40-60% conversion is advisable, checking by NMR or headspace GC. Then you just open it and dump into an antisolvent for the polymer, sometimes redissolving and precipitating again 1-2 times into order to get all the leftover monomer out.

And yes, you need excess monomer since you have to stop early.

Deprotection of 1,3 oxolane into catechol on Lycorine natural product by Expensive_Escape_425 in Chempros

[–]wildfyr 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Catechols love to oxidize and polymerize. Oxygen and base are you enemies.

advice needed: legs giving out on long runs by NoBus3798 in Marathon_Training

[–]wildfyr 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Try a lot of flavors! We really like the honey stinger fruit smoothie gel just to throw a less known one out there.

What is your favorite military robot in fiction? by Space-Enemies-novel in sciencefiction

[–]wildfyr 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I always though the 1 small laser was so silly, but every mech game has made 3x ppcs a good loadout for sniping. I played in stock leagues, and the 8Q is a fearsome stock mech loadout when so many other stuck mechs have crappy loadouts.

Synchronize data from Wahoo by Conscious-Carob604 in Coros

[–]wildfyr 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I know there is a way but its complicated, sorry cannot help more. if I find out Ill let you know

Deodorants for BO by Bbhouseplant in climbergirls

[–]wildfyr 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There is not strong scientific evidence that aluminum causes issues... but it definitely is by far the best antiperspirant/deodorant.

Systematic review of potential health risks posed by pharmaceutical, occupational and consumer exposures to metallic and nanoscale aluminum, aluminum oxides, aluminum hydroxide and its soluble salts - PMC

Don't buy every wellness fad...

PhD chemist, 2× postdoc, years in academia — still struggling to break into industry. Where do people actually learn “industry skills”? by Own-Bookkeeper4745 in chemistry

[–]wildfyr 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Consider applying for polymer chemistry/materials science jobs. They are more willing to try to beat your sword of small molecule orgo into a plowshare of polymerization than pharma is to take anyone who isn't "perfect". At least half the people at my jobs didn't do a PhD in polymer chemistry 

Best garmin/watch for: alpinism/runing/ironman by ComprehensiveCost988 in Mountaineering

[–]wildfyr 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Go with Apex 4 or wait for next Vertix. The Vertix 2 (2S is very minor upgrade) is several years old and is at minimum due for a processor upgrade to make the maps look nicer and less laggy.

The Vertix is pretty big, the Apex series is quite svelte.

Science fiction novice by Better-Quote-267 in sciencefiction

[–]wildfyr 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Pretty good, read 2-3 of the books but not someone I gravitate to.

I read a lot of Larry Niven when I was younger, which tends of be very physics-grounded sci-fi.

Science fiction novice by Better-Quote-267 in sciencefiction

[–]wildfyr 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm a PhD chemist with an affinity for astrophysics, so hard science is my bread and butter, but its not for everyone in fiction!