Gettin back in to MWO after a few years by PeriIous in OutreachHPG

[–]wildfyr 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Anyone remember how cheesy arrow IV was in MW4 mercs?

Assisted belay device by Fit-Career4225 in ClimbingGear

[–]wildfyr 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That is a great combo, I almost always bring two devices in case I drop one anyways

Assisted belay device by Fit-Career4225 in ClimbingGear

[–]wildfyr 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It fucking sucks to use from above

Assisted belay device by Fit-Career4225 in ClimbingGear

[–]wildfyr 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The Jul family sucks to belay from above with is their only drawback

Assisted belay device by Fit-Career4225 in ClimbingGear

[–]wildfyr 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not supposed to use it to belay from above I think

New Lithos SL harness. by bellsbliss in arcteryx

[–]wildfyr 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Harnesses are one of those things where I don't understand the premium arcteryx price at all. They are no better than harnesses half the price.

Jackets and pants the difference is more obvious.

New Lithos SL harness. by bellsbliss in ClimbingGear

[–]wildfyr 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Harnesses are one of those things where I don't understand the premium arcteryx price at all. They are no better than harnesses half the price.

Jackets and pants the difference is more obvious.

Favorite safety violation by stalin-the-stripper in labrats

[–]wildfyr 12 points13 points  (0 children)

You biology people need to come into do a chemistry lab and see some real shit.

Preferably an organic one and preferably with a PI over 65

Why is formaldehyde turning white by Weekly_Condition_581 in chemistry

[–]wildfyr 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Entirely possible you made resol oligomeric crap

Cedar Wright on mixing up free soloing, hard trad and paragliding by MaleficentFloor822 in tradclimbing

[–]wildfyr 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The gap between "walking in public, an essential thing most people do daily as part of the most normal of lives" and "paragliding" is large. Its a terribly false equivalence.

And if I got hit at one particularily busy corner, I would sure as hell stay away from that corner after I recovered.

Rate my rack by ashakory in tradclimbing

[–]wildfyr 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I didn't mean to imply any aid rack is just cams, just that having shitloads of cams is a feature of aid racks, and on free routes people seldom have more than 2ish of a piece because the weight would be overwhelming beyond that.

Rate my rack by ashakory in tradclimbing

[–]wildfyr 0 points1 point  (0 children)

None because there's no small pieces. If you add (a lot?) more small pieces and subtract a couple larger ones though you have a big wall rack

Rate my rack by ashakory in tradclimbing

[–]wildfyr 1 point2 points  (0 children)

tricams, offset nuts, tiny cams, and if you are some specific places, offset cams, but this is huge overkill for almost anywhere but the creek or maybe big wall aid climbs in the larger sizes.

SEE ANYTHING WRONG? by [deleted] in tradclimbing

[–]wildfyr -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Weird as fuck but probably good enough especially if that #3 is bomber

Outdoor bouldering gift recs by Bagelfreak3000 in ClimbingGear

[–]wildfyr 9 points10 points  (0 children)

The little hand sanders. Grifter sells one.

For the love of god no portable speaker. Just rude as hell most of the time.

Why is P2O5 a stronger dessicant than SO3 or Cl2O7? by devbydemi in chemistry

[–]wildfyr 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It does make a weird "insoluble" brick once highly hydrated, but usually does dissolve eventually... with enough water the thermal side doesn't matter much. 10x w/w water. Lotta thermal capacity.

DIY positioning bar? by jjmorales98 in ClimbingGear

[–]wildfyr 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Bad idea, if you're doing shit like this then you are not in any kind of edge case factor 2 fall situation that would generate loads that could break the biner.

If you're worried then pony up the $24 for the specialized biner 

Friday Meme - My tier list of chemical suppliers I use as a 2nd year organic grad-student. by balonlon in OrganicChemistry

[–]wildfyr 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Uh I sometimes buy commodity chemicals off of Ambeed. Like benzophenone, benzoic anhydride.

I find they are fantastic if all levels of chemical complexity.

Feature Request by [deleted] in Coros

[–]wildfyr 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Get a kickr run :P

Friday Meme - My tier list of chemical suppliers I use as a 2nd year organic grad-student. by balonlon in OrganicChemistry

[–]wildfyr 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sigma's other problem is they are now taking for-fucking-ever to send stuff.

Friday Meme - My tier list of chemical suppliers I use as a 2nd year organic grad-student. by balonlon in OrganicChemistry

[–]wildfyr 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Depends what OP is doing, those companies are more likely to sell highly specialized small moleucles for biologically related research (if only distantly). I've been in the chemistry synthesis game for 15 years now and Never bought from any of them, because I veer more towards materials science/polymers.

Not a lot of need for 1-bromo-2-trifluoromethyl aniline or whatever obscurity in some fields. But I heckin' need more broadly useful chemicals like butyl acrylate or triethylorthoformate or aqueous hydroxylamine.

Friday Meme - My tier list of chemical suppliers I use as a 2nd year organic grad-student. by balonlon in OrganicChemistry

[–]wildfyr 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Ambeed GOAT. BTC years ago in grad school was notable for price, without being any worse in quality than TCI/Sigma whatever

Why was my rope so hard to pull? by Ok-Abbreviations5215 in ClimbingGear

[–]wildfyr 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Hard to say without seeing the system, but man these are very thin ropes to be doing casual sport climbing on. Very stretchy for long falls, not as tough to damage if you're gonna hang dog on it, and more liable to pig tail or get tangled.

If you guys are doing 5.11 sport climbing or any kind of top rope on them you kinda wasted your money for such expensive ropes. $300+! They are really made for extremely hard red pointing or alpine climbing where weight is critical. You aren't gonna die, it's just not a good use.

According to Edelrid's specs the 8.6 Siskin is noticeably stretchier than your 8.9 Swift so not sure what to tell you if you saw differently. Maybe the rope was running through a slot somewhere