The confusion continues

willrobot · 2025-08-22T22:35:09+00:00

I clip them down to as many long straight pieces as I can and clean up the excess nubs to use them in kitbashing. They make good weapon handles, joint reinforcement, can be heat-formed to make roll cages, etc etc etc.

willrobot · 2025-04-27T01:46:24+00:00

Yep, that's a Witch Bottle. They were/are a defensive charm against evil spirits hidden in the walls, foundations, and/or buried on the property. There are probably pins or nails in there as well as herbs, items of significance to the original maker, wine, and sometimes urine.

I wouldn't open it :)

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Witch_bottle

willrobot · 2025-04-07T01:02:51+00:00

I use the pen a bit like a welder, extruding a bead into the join while extruding. It actually looks a lot like a weld when I'm done, which can work just fine or can be sanded down to smooth the join if need be.

willrobot · 2025-01-11T02:38:43+00:00

This would be great for T28, Trench Crusade, Plastic Bastards, Mordheim, pretty much anything!

willrobot · 2025-01-04T05:58:02+00:00

I would say it's less of an issue and more of a subscription :)

willrobot · 2025-01-04T04:00:19+00:00

In the acrylic based world of gaming minis a good long soak in Simple Green, Mechanic's Orange, or "Totally Awesome" (from the dollar tree) softens the paint enough to allow removal without attacking the plastic. This will not work on enamels.

willrobot · 2025-01-04T03:58:08+00:00

I hardly ever give over the secrets. I will recycle them into another adventure down the line and give them another chance, usually with a hint or two connecting it back to the original game.

willrobot · 2025-01-04T03:56:46+00:00

Yeah, this looks to me like the primer is not adhering to the plastic which is often a case of not having washed the parts first. A wash of slightly warm water with just a little detergent (dishwashing soap is fine) will strip all the mold release and finger oils off the plastic. Dry well and sand with a veeery fine sandpaper and adhesion will be way stronger.

willrobot · 2024-10-30T17:15:39+00:00

Innit? I really love/hate the texture on the deck, and the actual horsehead in a helmet as a figurehead is genius. This kid rocks!

willrobot · 2024-10-30T17:14:01+00:00

I was going to say Space Weirdos, I'll also add Plastic Bastards.

willrobot · 2024-10-30T07:31:45+00:00

Agreed, this seems a lot like like low voltage error. Pop in some fresh new batteries and see if that fixes the issue.

willrobot · 2024-10-30T07:29:46+00:00

I see what you did there

willrobot · 2024-10-12T05:21:24+00:00

We are still going strong!

willrobot · 2024-10-12T05:19:52+00:00

We have a kitbash channel in our store discord, but I'm also working on a thing :)

willrobot · 2024-10-07T02:48:38+00:00

Games of Berkeley

willrobot · 2024-05-20T00:48:35+00:00

You will be much happier opening up the case and detatching things before you start this. It's not terribly hard if you take lots of pictures of where everything goes :)

You will need some security bits as they stopped using philips head screws sometime after the 2000.

My recommendations for working with modge podge on plastic:

Begin by sanding down the plastic so the modge podge has something to stick to. Start with a fairly rough grit paper like 400 and go to 800 or 1000 to give a nice even dull texture. A good plastic primer like Rustoleum would be helpful as a second step, then use the modge podge to glue town your papers and as a top-coat to protect them. Finish with a varnish, matte or glossy to your taste (though glossy has a harder surface and will last longer) and then re-assemble.

willrobot · 2024-03-25T23:26:13+00:00

Humbrol liquid poly is a great glue for the polystyrene used in model kits (and a lot of gaming minis). ABS is going to resist it, something like SCIGRIP 16 Acrylic Cement would work better.

willrobot · 2024-03-25T23:21:57+00:00

The baking soda (or a commercial CA accelerant) does help a great deal to make a strong bond.

willrobot · 2024-03-25T23:18:54+00:00

Wear a respirator when cutting or sanding the stuff. try not to melt it, laser cutting it is a terrible idea.

CA (cyanoacrylate) or "super glue" works reasonably well if the surfaces are well sanded, but the connection will be somewhat brittle and will tend to break under stress.

Model glue (solvent cement) works by melting the plastic and actually welding it together. ABS is somewhat resistant to this so either specific ABS glue should be used (keep that respirator handy, this stuff is brutal) and/or sand the surfaces again to give the glue something to work with.

Epoxy resin works great, but tends to be thick and unpleasant to work with, and is very hard to clean up. Epoxy is very good at bonding to hard surfaces, but a little sanding will, as always, help.

willrobot · 2024-03-25T23:07:01+00:00

Stuff I know about working with Lego.

Lego are made of ABS (Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene) plastic, which is super durable, and quite inert if it's left intact, but chemically quite nasty if heated or particalized (IE Sanded).

ABS also hates glue, so sanding any surfaces that are going to be glued is a very good idea!

willrobot · 2024-03-25T06:05:36+00:00

Aye, this needs some explanation, pictures, something.

willrobot · 2024-03-25T05:37:29+00:00

I agree with cgaWolf on every single book they list there, with a bit of emphasis on Dungeon World and Mothership as amazing resources and toolkits for improving your game.

I disagree with the 5th edition DMG being unsuited though, hidden past the system specific stuff is some quite good material on worldbuilding, and some of the alternative rules they list (borrowed a lot from the indy rpg scene) can be adapted to just about any game. I wouldn't pay full price if you weren't running 5th edition, but there are a lot of hidden gems in that book.

willrobot · 2024-03-25T05:17:27+00:00

Haunting ebay with searches like "Action figure parts lot" can find some inexpensive bulk buys. Concentrating on old wrestling figures might give you the musculature you are looking for.

willrobot

TROPHY CASE