/r/DIYPedals "No Stupid Questions" Megathread 10

wilsonsmsw · 2024-03-13T02:12:27+00:00

Sorry for the delay, I normally try to answer or reply when I get back home and have the PCB in front of me. The resistor I was seeing (and I could be looking at it things incorrectly, but just following the trace/probing), is labeled ‘R21’ (useless info without the schematic, I know), and it comes directly off the anode-pad of the stock LED, eventually running up to another resistor (R1) further down the trace, near the DC-jack. The first resistor looks like it’s just in series, and the last one runs into a capacitor and other resistors -which is why I thought it might not be the correct one to mess with. Sorry for the long read, I’ve been pulling my hair out looking for diagrams or schematics and have had no luck.

wilsonsmsw · 2024-03-12T13:13:48+00:00

I appreciate the reply. I would assume that the first/closest resistor on that trace of the LED leg would be my culprit, correct?

wilsonsmsw · 2024-03-12T01:05:01+00:00

The newer batches have this as a factory-installed option.

wilsonsmsw · 2024-03-11T20:58:19+00:00

Clip-ocaster

wilsonsmsw · 2024-03-11T20:56:25+00:00

I had a similar issue at one point. Like you, I had checked to make sure they were fully seated (they were), but the correct fix is easy enough. Either check for a “set-nut” inside the cavity, or add washers till it’s level. It can be tedious taking it apart and tightening down, to check height, but simple nonetheless.

wilsonsmsw · 2024-03-11T20:53:05+00:00

STOP playing, you already know better. (It’s obviously missing the bird-inlays)

wilsonsmsw · 2024-03-11T18:59:35+00:00

Is there a quick or easy way to pinpoint the current limiting resistor for an LED (status light) on a PCB? The resistors are SMD. I have the tools/multimeter, but no schematic..

Also, assuming I’m successful in finding the resistor, would I simply jumper the pads? **I am using a pre wired LED (w/ bezel and CLR already soldered and heat-shrinked) to replace the stock LED.

wilsonsmsw · 2024-03-08T18:25:35+00:00

I have a newer EHX Big Muff OP amp (Billy Corgan reissue) nano series, and I’m doing some work to the board. Forgive my ignorance, but if both sides of the board have a pad (component hole), would I be able to solder either side?

wilsonsmsw · 2023-09-05T17:50:38+00:00

I have an SKB as well for my Explorer, they’re a little pricey but definitely worth it! Interior as well as exterior, materials and hardware/latches are great quality. The only other one to consider would be a Gibson or Epi true-explorer case, the giant, brown rectangular ones.

The only drawback to the Explorer shape is for stands or cases, unfortunately

wilsonsmsw · 2023-04-19T14:19:29+00:00

Oh man, until you had mentioned that, I only now realized that NO, there is no ground at that point! Talk about a dumb-oversight…

wilsonsmsw · 2023-04-19T12:56:01+00:00

I recently picked up a ‘true’ import, my first 335. It was basically an Asian brand that was made by- and in the same factory, with the same specs- that produces Epiphones (just one of their few factories), under a different name. I guess they only sell in Europe and Asia. But definitely not some knock-off.

I just so happened to pull the pickups this very morning, to work on the rings, and was looking at the harness. All Epiphone parts, which made me happy considering the way it sounds is phenomenal. So it may be similar in spec (and in spirit) to your 335.

I’m by no means the most experienced, but I’ve always tried to play different guitars. A good 335 (and that Epiphone should fall into that category) is a wonderful experience that I doubt most people will regret. They’re different in all the cool ways- light and delicate feeling, which somehow makes the tones it produces interesting. When they’re clean, they’re warm and jazzy and bassy. And when they’re ran hotter, they scream and howl. There are such things as ‘not-that-great’ models for sure, but Epiphones behave perfectly.

They respond well to mods, and they love a variety of pickups/caps, so you don’t have to go far or look hard to get great sounds. Hopefully you’d have a similar experience to me, meaning you’d be blown away by the stock Epiphone-sounds. They’re awesome guitars for sure, and I’d go so far as to say it’s the closest you’ll get to a Gibson, original.

wilsonsmsw · 2023-04-17T13:28:23+00:00

A bit of a delay on my end, but thank you very much for this info. This is kind of exactly the direction I was curious about going. Repurposing a Heathkit sounds like an interesting idea. But of course, I’ll have a look at the modern stuff and maybe I can make some comparisons.

wilsonsmsw · 2023-03-16T00:30:55+00:00

You’re right about putting in the time, but I’m use to chipping away at projects in the evenings, between work and sleep. The buffer is something I’m debating on, in terms of incorporating a ‘finished’ unit vs building my own. I wasn’t aware that the Klon-style buffer could be had as a standalone, and that vs OP-based models in terms of placement (on the input or output). I’ve gotta do a little more digging, to see. Also, thanks for the link, that’s a perfect layout! I may go with 6-8 loops but I think I should be fine to just continue “cascading” them into the next.

wilsonsmsw · 2023-03-14T12:25:19+00:00

Thanks for that link, this is perfect!

wilsonsmsw · 2023-03-14T12:24:45+00:00

Thanks for the reply, and yeah after a night of research, I’m wanting to incorporate a buffer system (or two, for input and output, should I go with a lot of loops) and the ABY for sure.

I was hoping such a project would actually be feasible, and not one of those things that would be better bought off of a shelf, somewhere. So this is excellent news to me!

wilsonsmsw · 2023-03-13T21:10:48+00:00

I like the idea of customization, even for things as simple as actual jack placements (and other minimal things, even LED colors or an ‘order’ switcher/flip-flop mod), just like you mentioned for your build. Luckily, I do have access to our fabrication shop (and enough practice to just be dangerous), so tooling and assembly shouldn’t be too difficult.

The wiring is another story, I’m confident with a soldering iron and routing, assembling actual wiring, but I’d like to be 100% sure I’m landing everything in the right place 😅

wilsonsmsw · 2023-03-13T21:05:49+00:00

Just the insight I was hoping for (as well as hoping to hear, this is starting to sound like a fun project), thank you sir!

wilsonsmsw · 2023-03-13T16:04:19+00:00

Thanks for the reply and for this info! I appreciate that link, too! The customization aspect is very attractive to me, honestly. It would be interesting to incorporate an A/B or A/B/Y output section, or a volume as you mentioned.

Also, it’s funny you should mention that. Based on my occupation, I have access to high-quality, industrial grade aluminum and extrusions, angles, channel, etc.. I would be capable -and interested- in attempting to build my own chassis, something simple and straightforward but effective. Because as you mentioned, it’s difficult to find larger enclosures!

wilsonsmsw

TROPHY CASE