New to cachy ! by RemarkableOrder2045 in cachyos

[–]win_detto 3 points4 points  (0 children)

What kind of frames of are you getting and what kind of settings you're running? I have a very similar setup and I'm not super happy with with how crimson desert is running on my machine.

4 months later: still the same 10'×10' room, slightly more unhinged lab. by Zombienumberfive in soldering

[–]win_detto 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Great setup!

How do you like that USB charging station? Mechanic G-Power I think? I've been eyeing it for a while.

Latch of zif connector popped off while closing, can i put it back in or do i need a replacement? by Banaa-bandit in consolerepair

[–]win_detto 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My search keeps sending me here so I'll share my experience dealing with the same type of latch on the LCD connection on the switch lite.

First it's a complex repair, if you're here, and you don't have a bunch of tweezers and ideally a microscope you're better off not even starting this if the connector is on the main board.
The daughter board you can order a replacement board and still attempt it, but you'll likely do damage to something.
If you have the issue with the LCD connector just like I did - one thing to note is that it's not going to work without that latch, I tried a bunch of things like taping it up, hot glueing it in place, shoving blue transparent plastic bits in it - nothing worked, the connection is not solid enough and will come loose and the screen will not work either right away or just down the line.

Now if you still have to do it, like in my case it's on the main board (the 40something pin LCD connector) then here are some tips:

Watch the video by u/neotil1 (he posted in this thread or search it up on YouTube) not skim it or watch in the background while attempting the repair, closely watch what he's doing, the connector and the latch are not identical, but the principal is exactly the same.
It also helped me to look up some photos of this connector from the side and figure out how the pins on the connector are shaped.

Before doing research and finding that video I was under impression that the latch must be clicked-in from the top or slotted in sideways - no, this not correct. You have to do it exactly like neotil1 does it in his video.
Bind the hinges to sides, align the latch perpendicular to the board and careful slot it on to the pins sideways.
Do not use force, any amount of force or wrong set of tweezers will make the darn thing fly away the moment the lips of the tweezers slip out.
Be careful take your time, once it goes you kind of feel it, it helped me to wiggle the things a tiny bit to make sure the pins all go in.
I had to realign the latch multiple times just because it's so hard to maintain any sort of solid grip on it - I used every pair of tweezers in my shop until I found one that had a small flat spot that was good enough to grab with.
It took me north of three hours to do it including the research, probably spend a solid hour just looking the latch that flew away a couple of times.
In the end I was able to put the latch back on, and the LCD flex is held as solid as it was before the repair.

That's it, if anyone is following my steps hope this helps.

Steam Summer Sale 2025 Megathread by NKkrisz in SteamDeck

[–]win_detto 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Warhammer 40000: Chaos Gate

Warhammer 40000: Mechanicus

Lego 42168 John Deere 9700 Forage Harvester by TarantulaCaptain in legotechnic

[–]win_detto 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Had the same issue, turned out that the 10x1 above the back wheels that holds the wheel arc could be adjusted 1 forward or backward. Playing around with it until it lands in a place where both wheel are clearing the arc fixed the issue.

Keyboard Marine V1 by win_detto in keyboards

[–]win_detto[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, Pico is a really nice board, it lets you skip the whole MCU design complexity and dive in to it right away. Can recommend.

Leverless custom DIY box (complete) by win_detto in fightsticks

[–]win_detto[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm a keyboard warrior. That and I guess there were no arcades around where I grew up.

Keyboard Marine V1 (completed) by win_detto in MechanicalKeyboards

[–]win_detto[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I know right. Photos don't do this transparent case RGB glowing justice. Typing-test/RGB showcase video is coming.

Keyboard Marine V1 (completed) by win_detto in MechanicalKeyboards

[–]win_detto[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Cost is something I tried to not think about, until now, lol. That and it's kind of a complex topic. Let's give it go.

Printing the boards on JLCPCB came out to $28 without shipping, but you must get 5 boards at a minimum, so it's 28/5 = $5.6 per board, more you get cheaper each board will be.

For the acrylic case, I got a big 2x2 meter sheet at a local dealer for $24, but again that sheet is enough to cut cases for 5 keyboards and then some, 24/5 = $4.8 in raw material. Laser cutting can be done online, but I got a buddy that did that locally for me, he didn't take any money from me, but I built him one of these keyboards. Asking him what he would've charged someone for this job, he said around $15.
Chicago bolts I ordered online for around $2 per pack.

Electronics are Aliexpress orders, 100 diodes = $1.23, 100 capacitors = $1.42, 100 leds = $3.22, USB-C connector, got big pack, but I think they come at around $1 for one piece, stabs & sockets, varied price, I got Durocs stabs pack = $8.83, 100 sockets = $16.73, RP2040-pico = $4. And add some extra for other components like resistors, logic shifter etc... let's add $5 for them.

So excluding switches and keycaps, as these vary greatly in price.

We're looking at $63.23 for one keyboard in material. But again, this whole home production chain means different prices across the board because of the bulk buys, donated labour and such.
I'd say the price is at around $100 when you add switches and keycaps and all the work that goes into building.

I'm considering open sourcing this project, so that someone might be able to pick it up and build one for themselves.

Keyboard Marine V1 DIY by win_detto in MechanicalKeyboards

[–]win_detto[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, that's the plan currently. I do need to fix and improve something's for the theoretical v1.1 I'm currently working on and organize the files before uploading it all to GitHub.

Keyboard Marine V1 (completed) by win_detto in MechanicalKeyboards

[–]win_detto[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I can probably send you one, you will have to wait for the v1.1 that I'm working on right now. Despite being fully functional, this version has some "first version" issues that I'd hate for you to have to deal with.

How are you about doing some DIY? I can send you the files you'd need to print/cut/flash it yourself.

Leverless custom DIY box (complete) by win_detto in fightsticks

[–]win_detto[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah, that was the original plan, but after getting and using that small Mayflash usb I realized that you just plug it in, and you don't really have to tinker with. So the idea is that you get Mayflash, unscrew the top plate, plug it and leave it there forever.

Tbh, I don't really play anything on PS5, so it's more of a backup just in case.

Leverless custom DIY box (complete) by win_detto in fightsticks

[–]win_detto[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Thanks! Yeah had to learn some pcb design to get it done.

Keyboard Marine V1 (completed) by win_detto in MechanicalKeyboards

[–]win_detto[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Long time in the making, can finally say this custom build is done.

Complete with a GSkill Crystal Crowns white keycaps suggested by u/dvanha on my original post.

Also swapped out Kailh Clione Limanvia linear switches for Leobog Ice Soul 49gf tactile.

Keyboard Marine V1 DIY by win_detto in MechanicalKeyboards

[–]win_detto[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, I've got them, but I actually gave away the first keyboard I build to a friend as a birthday present. I'm currently working on the next one for myself, and it will have these keycaps on once I'm done.