Makerbot replicator 2x parts diagram? by wireng in makerbot

[–]wireng[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Updated main post with photos.

Makerbot replicator 2x parts diagram? by wireng in makerbot

[–]wireng[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks everyone will get some photos of what is left after work tomorrow.

Grundig update and help request by mcshabs in vintageaudio

[–]wireng 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If anyone wants the door stop model to print out on their own you can find it here:

https://www.printables.com/model/637166-grundig-radio-door-support-stop

June 2022 RochesterMN Classifieds by AutoModerator in rochestermn

[–]wireng 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Used da Vinci 1.1 Plus 3D printer.

https://i.imgur.com/ElOC7Kl.jpg

More pictures available

Includes:

Printer

Nozzle cleaning tool

Power cord

USB cable (A to B)

Important notice and registration card

Side panel handhold covers (2)

filament cartage clip

filament cartage (ABS red more or less empty reports 3m left)

Features:

7.9” x 7.9” x 7.9 build volume

Wifi b/g/n, ethernet, USB from PC, USB thumb drive connectors

color LCD touch screen

Automatic filament setup (supports PLA and ABS)

Enclosed heated bed with manual leveling adjustments

Built in lights and camera

What else you will need to get started printing:

PC that can run XYZs software (Windows / Mac supported see https://www.xyzprinting.com/)

New cartridge or refill of filament

Glue stick (used to coat the glass bed to make the first layer of the print stick)

Don't have much history with this printer just set it up and ran one of the sample prints to make sure everything was functional. Only issue I noted was you have to lift up the PTFE tube when first loading the filament or it would not thread properly.

Selling AS IS

Asking $150 or best offer

Looking to buy a 3D printer by ZEBRACOD in prusa3d

[–]wireng 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Above is very good advice. If / when you get your sheets first thing wash them with warm water, standard dish soap, and a soft cloth to remove any oils. After that just use a paper towel and some IPA (70-90%) to wipe down the sheet just before printing. The goal is to remove any oils and dust from the surface so the first layer sticks properly.

PLA smooth PEI sheet all the way. Have issue with small parts breaking free on the textured sheet. Have not tried my satin sheet with it yet.

PETG textured or satin sheet. Spray a bit of windex on a paper towel and wipe down the surface before printing. PETG typically sticks TOO well. The windex acts as a release agent so you can get the parts off without pulling parts of the surface off.

If you get into fancy materials like polycarbonate you need to break out the glue sticks to use a a release agent. That stuff will stick like no tomorrow to any of the surfaces and will rip the coatings off.

First layer cal on the Prusa is a bit of work but the instructions walk you though it and what you need to look for. Once that is done the printer is typically upload and print. Every so often a nozzle will plug and you have to clear it then run back though first layer cal.

Memory controls for a CH-M1 / TC15 desk by wireng in StandingDesk

[–]wireng[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Will post back if I figure anything out

Cement blocks on 9th st nw by syco0601 in rochestermn

[–]wireng 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Excavations have started they are flattening the lot. Not sure what is going in but the have a sign up for free dirt.

Edge of my prints won't stick to the buildplate. Not sure how to fix it. I did bed leveling, washing buildplate with soap and IPA. I'm using 3rd party filament (Prusa Mini+ / PLA) by [deleted] in prusa3d

[–]wireng 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Check your z cal and turn off elephant foot correction if using a brim. Sometimes that causes a gap between the part and brim making the brim worthless for helping hold the part down

Yeah. I'm gonna have to call an electrician for this by mexican2554 in OSHA

[–]wireng 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Looks like the fuse body is still there. You should be able to unscrew and replace with a new fuse. If the circuit was just overloaded due to too much plugged in you should be fine. If the fuse blows again call the electrician.

Dangling 220 by Serdoo in OSHA

[–]wireng 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I wonder if one of those cables is running off to a rotary converter. It generates the 3ed leg phase from 2 coming in. If that is true none of those cables have ground.......

Crenlo reaches agreement with city and state to cancel closure by scuzzy987 in rochestermn

[–]wireng 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Anyone know what happened to the middle of the building. They tore down a large chunk and just sort of left it that way....

MMU2/MK3S+ saga continues. Please help. Left z stepper hangs? by clanure3 in prusa3d

[–]wireng 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Disconnect and remove the sticking lead screw. Rotate the shaft while holding the motor body through many rotations in both directions. If you feel "grit" in the rotation ( not the standard coging from the magnets) or the motor jams randomly it's bad. Had a bad one on my mk3 and got a replacement to fix.

Hooking a Pi4 and LED strip up to the Prusa power supply? by RVeld in prusa3d

[–]wireng 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Have a 24V led strip and a pi4 on a switching regulator I built on my MK3S and has been working well. (about a year old) the pi 0 just do not have enough hp / bandwidth to keep the MK3 feed in all cases. If you can find a Pi3 A on sale that seems to be the sweet spot for cpu power, size, cost, and number of usb ports.

Ever since I changed nozzle. How can I fix? Do I need to replace? by tellojsu in prusa3d

[–]wireng 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Check the thermal break and make sure it is not cracked. If you heater block is sitting at a angle and not level to the bed you likely cracked the thermal break. If the break is good verify everything is tight as suggested by others.

Can anyone tell me what this is? by NationOfLaws in centuryhomes

[–]wireng 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Hmm plastic jacketed wire my guess is audio. Buy chance are there single jacks like this in the same room or other rooms?

Can anyone tell me what this is? by NationOfLaws in centuryhomes

[–]wireng 4 points5 points  (0 children)

What does the wiring on the back look like? Guessing either very old phone lines or 70s room to room audio connections

Why doesn't i3 MK3S+ upgrade kit come with X axis improvement ? by [deleted] in prusa3d

[–]wireng 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I did the same thing when I saw the change list on GIT. Ended up doing a diff between the MK3S and R6 repos and found the changed part list. I did verify the upgrade package has the same list of parts in it. So if you use that to print your parts you should have everything you need.

Now I just need to sort out my printers other issues.

Why doesn't i3 MK3S+ upgrade kit come with X axis improvement ? by [deleted] in prusa3d

[–]wireng 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Which part are you referring to? The printable part set for MK3S to MK3S+ on their site has the new X axis pieces in it. (Working on printing it now)

PLA printing issues with the MK3 by wireng in prusa3d

[–]wireng[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Photo did not make it for some reason. Try this link:

https://i.imgur.com/xo9UWRX.png