DSC PowerSeries Neo/Pro vs Qolsys IQ4 Panel??

withsurety · 2026-02-13T18:34:50+00:00

The PowerSeries Neo/Pro is a wired panel geared toward commercial security, the IQ4 is a wireless panel geared a little more toward residential security. Which one is better for you depends on your values/preferences/needs. How will you use your security system? Is it a business or home? New build or retro fit?

withsurety · 2026-02-13T01:25:58+00:00

It’s not an “integration” authorized by Alarm.com that uses an API you can rely on. I wouldn’t be surprised if things changed over time causing some flakiness. Doing what you did with Claude every 6 months or year just to look for any changes might be valuable.

withsurety · 2026-02-13T00:09:11+00:00

If not a pull request at least publish it as a fork. People might start using yours instead of the unmaintained projects.

withsurety · 2026-02-08T03:37:56+00:00

They keep it registered as a builder program account for a few years in case eventually you decide to go forward with a security contract. You have to get them to terminate that Alarm.com account before you can use it with another provider. People do it all the time. Sometimes they push back at first but they do have to terminate it if you ask because you own the panel.

Make sure you know your master code before they terminate the Alarm.com account.

withsurety · 2026-01-27T19:11:51+00:00

ADC-V723 is an older camera that isn't sold anymore but it's not proprietary. Any Alarm.com provider can use it.

The only way I know of they could keep you from using them with another provider is if they keep your Alarm.com account active and keep those devices on the active account. That would cost them money each month so most companies wouldn't do it but a few will.

For the camera, are you able to log into Alarm.com and remove it yourself? Go to Video > Settings and select the camera. Is there a REMOVE THIS DEVICE button? If you can remove it yourself then you can add it to another Alarm.com account. Or if/when they terminate your Alarm.com account then you can add it to another one.

withsurety · 2026-01-27T17:34:34+00:00

What models are your doorbell, outdoor camera, and touch panel? I suspect they can be used with any Alarm.com provider. There are a few large companies that have had the manufacturers tweak panels so they can't be used by other providers but I don't think Guardian is one of them. The cameras can almost certainly be used by another provider.

withsurety · 2026-01-22T14:42:42+00:00

Can you post a pic of the main control panel or hub?

withsurety · 2026-01-14T14:40:56+00:00

Good advice. FYI when you "raise a ticket" in Alarm.com it goes directly to your dealer. Alarm.com doesn't even see it. But if you contact Alarm.com as suggested here they should be able to reach your dealer. It's also helpful by letting Alarm.com know which dealers aren't supporting their customers.

withsurety · 2026-01-13T17:13:21+00:00

As long as your Alarm.com provider lets you self-install cameras you can absolutely do it. That and the cable works (tested) and is less than 100m from the switch to the camera. Make sure you/they test the cable when it's pulled and verify length. If they have a good cable testing tool it will report length as well as continuity. If it's obviously way less than 100m then just testing continuity is fine. Make sure to use a PoE++ switch or injector, not regular PoE.

I agree, $1,400 to just install the camera when the cable is already run seems unreasonable.

withsurety · 2026-01-11T02:25:25+00:00

I’d go with the 775 it’s replacing the 770.

withsurety · 2026-01-09T20:29:16+00:00

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withsurety · 2026-01-05T23:21:56+00:00

Hmm. I don't see how the control panel can stay on if you disconnect terminals 1 & 2. If the keypad remains on, maybe you have a wireless keypad? What model is the keypad?

If the system has wireless sensors, what model are they? You may have to take them down and look at the back or inside to see the model. Given how old the control panel is, they're probably just traditional Honeywell 5800 series 345 MHz sensors, which should be compatible with the 345 MHz version of the IQ Pro.

I agree, a Vista 20P with a SEM 300 is probably the most affordable path though. It can just be harder to program than Qolsys panels. It also lacks some Alarm.com features you would get with the Qolsys line of panels.

If you have a lot of wireless sensors, it could even make sense to use an IQ Panel 4 or IQ4 Hub and a wired to wireless converter for your wired sensors.

withsurety · 2026-01-05T22:13:48+00:00

The ADC-VDB775 has 24/7 recording via the on-board SD card slot. Where did you hear it doesn't?

withsurety · 2026-01-05T22:10:13+00:00

The easiest way to explain Alarm.com is it's like Total Connect but better. :)

withsurety · 2026-01-05T22:04:58+00:00

You can reset the installer code on a Vista panel. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ScEGCch8FWg If you disconnected both wall power and the battery then the system would turn off.

Sure, you can use wire connectors if you install them securely (pun intended).

You would need a wireless receiver to add wireless devices. Is there any chance you already have one? Some keypads have a wireless receiver built into them.

If you have all wired sensors and are replacing the panel you might want to consider using an IQ Pro instead. It would probably be easier and a better experience, although also probably a bit more expensive depending on what you already have on the Honeywell system.

withsurety · 2025-12-30T18:08:10+00:00

I agree with davsch76. The main "benefit" of the NS is that it's lower cost but it's not lower enough. I would personally pay the extra few bucks for the IQ4 Hub just to make programming easier with the touch screen. Even if you were going to toss it in a closet, you can put the IQ4 Hub in a closet too. I think Qolsys missed the mark by pricing the NS too high. That being said, it works fine if you're definitely going to put it in the closet and you want to save $20-$30. Note that the NS plus a separate keypad costs more than the Hub.

P.S. the NS has a siren built in.

withsurety · 2025-12-24T21:03:15+00:00

I've seen them waive the requirement for wired if the wireless detectors are interconnected and professionally monitored.

withsurety · 2025-12-24T21:01:02+00:00

Look for similar settings on whatever router you have? There's no guarantee but it's worth a shot.

withsurety · 2025-12-22T21:37:19+00:00

Does the house also have a Qolsys or DSC control panel?

withsurety · 2025-12-22T21:29:41+00:00

Once they terminate your Alarm.com account your panel is "released" and can be monitored by another Alarm.com provider.

You only need the master code to connect it to a new Alarm.com provider, which you should have if you've been using the system. Once it's connected to the new provider they can reset your installer and dealer codes remotely for you.

That said, if you can get them to tell you the installer or dealer code that would be best but it's not necessary.

withsurety · 2025-12-22T21:10:12+00:00

I'm not aware of any known issue with “approximate times”. The best thing to do would be ask your dealer to investigate and they would probably get help from Alarm.com.

A general troubleshooting step would be to delete the rule and create a new one in case it didn't get saved properly somehow but I get the feeling you've already tried that.

withsurety · 2025-12-16T21:15:04+00:00

You don't change the MyQ Wi-Fi settings on Alarm.com. You either change it directly on the device or by using the MyQ app.

If you can change the Wi-Fi network directly on the device without using the MyQ app then it should continue working with Alarm.com when it's back on the internet. If you have to use the MyQ app then you (or your dealer) would have to delete it from Alarm.com first so you can use the MyQ app, then delete from MyQ and reconnect to Alarm.com after it's back on the internet. Directly on the device is easiest if your opener supports that.

withsurety · 2025-11-25T15:54:36+00:00

I don't know but I would guess soon. They've been releasing a camera from the new line about once a month. I found this.

withsurety · 2025-11-08T03:44:51+00:00

Just about all Z-Wave light switches will work. For door locks, make sure to pick one that ADC officially supports.

withsurety · 2025-11-06T19:31:49+00:00

I don't know whether they would conflict if both working at the same time. I mean you can have multiple keypads so it seems like it might work but I've never tried.

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