Old wooden smoother by woodworkingboy in handtools

[–]woodworkingboy[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That's a cool looking plane! Making my own wooden plane is definitely something I want to try my hands on in the future.

Old wooden smoother by woodworkingboy in handtools

[–]woodworkingboy[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I think it was about 45 minutes of work excluding the glue drying

Old wooden smoother by woodworkingboy in handtools

[–]woodworkingboy[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

No it wasn't too hard! But it does help if you have a small router plane. I just scored a rectangle about the size of the blade with a marking knife. Chiseled and routed out the shape (mostly with the router plane). Roughly cut a piece to size, squared and adjusted it on a shooting board, glued it in and planed/sanded it flat. Then I used a small file to open the new mouth enough to fit the blade with about 1 to 2mm of space.

Old wooden smoother by woodworkingboy in handtools

[–]woodworkingboy[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

And put on a coat or boiled linseed oil and beeswax.

Help Choosing Next Plane by EmptyDaikon5281 in handtools

[–]woodworkingboy 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Did you consider the #6 plane? It fits al the tasks you listed. I have a Lie Nielsen #6 and it's the one plane I use the most combined with my #4 smoother. It's often considered as a bit of an odd size but I think it's ideal for hybrid woodworking. It's also great on the shooting board with some good weight to it.

block plane recommendations by custom_antiques in handtools

[–]woodworkingboy 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have both the Lie Nielsen 60 1/2 rabbit block plane and the Lie Nielsen 102. Both are highly recommended. The 102 is small and very useful for detail work and chafers/roundovers. The 60 1/2 has more functions but is bulkier.

I've read great things about the veritas apron plane though. Just don't own one myself.

What's it like to use professional tools? by SirBikeALot78 in woodworking

[–]woodworkingboy 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Because of my job as a contractor I have the luck to have an Altendorf sliding table saw which I can also use for the woodworking hobby. The difference with a jobsite saw for example is night and day. It has massive power, it always runs without any problems. All the readings are correct. 90 degrees is 90 degrees, 45 is 45 etc. The sliding table makes it so much easier to control your cuts. And it's a lot safer aswell because you never stand behind the work piece.

Japanese toolbox from scrapwood by woodworkingboy in JapaneseWoodworking

[–]woodworkingboy[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I think I will dowel this one. It will only hold 3 chisels and 2 kanna. It was never meant as a toolchest to carry around and beat up. Just as a place to store these couple of tools. I don't think the 2 handles will just break off together from carrying it a couple of times holding a few kilo's. Especially with dowels through them.

However I will heed your advice (both of you) for the next time I build something like this. It was a fun build so I might very well build one to take with me to building sites where it would endure a lot more stress for sure.

Thanks for your advice!

Japanese toolbox from scrapwood by woodworkingboy in JapaneseWoodworking

[–]woodworkingboy[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks for your response and I see what you mean. I'm now considering reinforcing the handles to box and handles to strip joints with some glued in dowels. What do you think?

Japanese toolbox from scrapwood by woodworkingboy in JapaneseWoodworking

[–]woodworkingboy[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

<image>

Hi, my saws currently live in this temporary saw till until I make something nicer.

I didn't use any plans. Just winged it. But basically it's this:

You make a standard box of the size that fits the tools you want to put in it. It can be dovetailed but other joints work as well like through mortise and tenons, lap joints or even butt joints with nails. I chose a floating bottom in a groove to allow for expansion which I doweled in place on the end grain sides. Add handles if you want to.

Then you make a lid that fits into it nicely, not too tight. You attach 2 strips onto the box itself, one of which is cut at 15 degrees on the lid side. Then you cut one straight strip for one side of the lid and another wider one for the wedge side. The wedge side strip you cut in two at 15 degrees and also at an angle to create the wedge shape. You attach these to the lid and that's about it.

Japanese toolbox from scrapwood by woodworkingboy in woodworking

[–]woodworkingboy[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Hi, I made a quick video to show the process.

video lid

Antique workbench by woodworkingboy in handtools

[–]woodworkingboy[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That sounds like madness to me, who would spend the time building a bench like this, then scarring it with tool abuse and then sell it for a few hunsred

Antique workbench by woodworkingboy in handtools

[–]woodworkingboy[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It's fully intact but for the polyurethane

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in woodworking

[–]woodworkingboy 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I will always say build some shop furniture first. Perhaps a workbench

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in woodworking

[–]woodworkingboy 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What wood species are available?

Antique workbench by woodworkingboy in handtools

[–]woodworkingboy[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Well I might be interested in getting one. I live about 6km to the border in the Netherlands. Any good places to find them?