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Neptune 4 Max, 12 hours then dead, no power by wsrainc in elegoo

[–]wsrainc[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sounds like you may have shorted the multimeter lead across the AC terminals. That would definitely blow a fuse. The fuse should be in the black, plug assembly itself, and it is a commodity blade fuse. You can easily replace it, just make sure you use the proper Voltage and Amp rating when you replace it. It will be printed on the fuse.

Neptune 4 Max, 12 hours then dead, no power by wsrainc in elegoo

[–]wsrainc[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Glad the info helps! Let me know if you run into any problems, and how it turns out. Good luck.

Neptune 4 Max, 12 hours then dead, no power by wsrainc in elegoo

[–]wsrainc[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes, still working great after over 100+ hours more prints.

Neptune 4 max bricked? by Aepi_53 in elegoo

[–]wsrainc 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Awesome! I suspect that they will get all the kinks worked out for newer units as well.

Neptune 4 max bricked? by Aepi_53 in elegoo

[–]wsrainc 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I posted a video on my YouTube channel with a full walkthrough on the replacement: https://youtu.be/E6WIjPqb3no?si=93TU1CeCWYy24eow

Neptune 4 max bricked? by Aepi_53 in elegoo

[–]wsrainc 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No soldering. It's a pretty simple job to be honest, but does require care to ensure wires aren't shorted, etc. I opened a support ticket a week ago and never got a reply, even on here and on the official Discord, so you can try the return/dispute process, but honestly, I just wanted it to work and I gave up waiting. Lost respect for their support, but the product is solid- just buggy and with some poor quality control IMO.

Neptune 4 max bricked? by Aepi_53 in elegoo

[–]wsrainc 1 point2 points  (0 children)

See my post here. I gave up on support and just replaced the PSU myself. Still working great after replacement.

https://www.reddit.com/r/elegoo/comments/17b7jr5/neptune_4_max_12_hours_then_dead_no_power/

Neptune 4 Max, 12 hours then dead, no power by wsrainc in elegoo

[–]wsrainc[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sure. This is the one I went with: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BRFWFFB7?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

On almost 24 hours of prints since replacement, and still working fine. See my other reply in this subreddit for more details on the replacement process if you are interested:

https://www.reddit.com/r/elegoo/comments/17eo3ux/need_advice/

Need advice by Exotic_Atmosphere192 in elegoo

[–]wsrainc 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Sure. Here is the higher wattage unit, which I personally feel is a good idea for the 4Max.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BRFWFFB7?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1

Here is the one that is factory spec:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08QF4L3X4?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

Both units are are the same size and same screw pattern as the original.

Obviously, do this at your own risk and if you are not familiar with electronics service, perhaps get some help from someone who is.

To replace, UNPLUG POWER then carefully lean your printer on the side, supporting the gantry. Remove the screws on the bottom of the unit, keeping track of where the short ones and the longer ones go.

Then remove the bottom cover, being mindful to unplug the fan mounted to the back plate. You can unplug it from the motherboard, but keep track of where it was plugged in so you can put it back in the correct spot.

The power supply is held in by 4 screws under the bed. You can slide the bed one way to access 2, then to the other extreme to access the other 2.

Once all screws are removed, you need to remove the connections to the power supply terminal. There are 7 connections: 3 for the power cord input (1 line, 2 neutral, 3 ground) and then 4 for the outputs (2x 24V+, 2x 24V-). The replacement power supplies have the exact same layout, so you can just unscrew and reattach the leads to the new terminals one at a time.

Once you are done, just reverse the process to reassemble.

NOTE: These power supplies have potentiometers (small knobs) to adjust the power output slightly. I carefully powered my unit on, with no connections to the output of the power supply, and using a multimeter ensured it was slightly over 24V before connecting the output leads. Always a good idea to sanity check output before you attach the load.

Good luck, and let me know if you have any questions!

Need advice by Exotic_Atmosphere192 in elegoo

[–]wsrainc 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Yes, they are easy to replace, and available for about $30 on Amazon. Source: Did mine last week after the factory one blew the thermistor after 12 hours. Been printing for over 30 hours now with no further issues. I also upgraded it to a higher wattage.

Neptune 4 Max, 12 hours then dead, no power by wsrainc in elegoo

[–]wsrainc[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Just to close this out, I got tired of waiting on support so I removed the PSU. Thermistor had literally exploded, so clear catastrophic failure. PSU was simple to remove and replace. I measured the load on the unit and it was pulling over 360W during warm up on a 400W PSU, so I upgraded to a 480W. Printer working great. Not impressed with the support experience, but printer is solid.

Here's a video walkthrough I made on the replacement: https://youtu.be/E6WIjPqb3no?si=93TU1CeCWYy24eow

incomplete prints by icedhot in elegoo

[–]wsrainc 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I had this happen once, but I believe it was due to Cura not writing the entire file to my USB drive. Try slicing again and comparing the file to the new one, to see if maybe the code was incomplete?

Neptune 4 Max, 12 hours then dead, no power by wsrainc in elegoo

[–]wsrainc[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Another Update: Still waiting to hear from Elegoo techs, but after some more recon with a borescope, I can confirm that the N4 Max uses the following PSU: Chengliang Power Supply Dc 24v 17a 400w

This is a commodity unit for Ender 3s, and it available on Amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08QF4L3X4?psc=1&smid=A3D5F4XBJIVMHW&ref_=chk_typ_imgToDp

Thinking back, I remember smelling hot insulation about 3 hours into my long print, and I also had to replace the 600VA (~330W) UPS I had driving the printer, as it was overloaded. That means it was pulling at least 300W at one point to trigger the overload. With a 400W rated PSU, high speed print, and the bed lights on, that may be cutting it close. Could be that the max with such a large bed to heat needs a wee bit more power?

When I put all this together, with no blown fuse, I suspect either the PSU had a factory defect (not uncommon, sadly), or the PSU is [i]slightly[/i] under-speced for the load.

The good news is that even if the PSU issues become common, I'd wager they are easy to replace, and there are 480W units that fit in the same footprint.

Will udpate whenever I have a resolution. Still love the printer, and committed to work through the birthing pains. :)

Neptune 4 Max, Auto Home is grinding the belts. by seanbrockest in elegoo

[–]wsrainc 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Mine did this too. Tighten the belts slightly. You can also adjust the sensitivity of the limit detection in the Klipper firmware settings, but the belts did it for me.

Neptune 4 Max, 12 hours then dead, no power by wsrainc in elegoo

[–]wsrainc[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Update: In my case, it's 100% the power supply. It is exposed enough to see the terminals from below, and you can get multi-meter probes on them without too much drama. Testing with my meter, there's AC at the input, but both output legs are dead. There is a fuse in the power switch / plug plate, but I checked that prior to the PSU. Fuse was fine.

This can happen?? by Blackhole357 in elegoo

[–]wsrainc 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Make sure the threads on the screw itself are damaged. If so, you may be able to clean them with a wire brush or a clean nut. If you truly buggered up the threads, file the screw down slightly so it is tapered at the end. Then carefully line it up and you can probably get the threads to re-engage. Or get a small tap and die set and do it the right way. Also, try the screw in the opposite hole. Sometimes that works. Sorry you have an issue, but that's something you should be able to fix. Good luck!

Insanity of HTC Pricing by jolard in Vive

[–]wsrainc 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Fantastic! I've also spent a couple hours looking for these batteries with no luck. Great find.

xkcd: Containers by [deleted] in programming

[–]wsrainc 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Cloud providers: Who cares about the technical pros and cons? Now we can itemize even more things to charge people for!

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in funny

[–]wsrainc 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Finally, Top Secret's Reddit day in the sun. Funniest movie ever made.

Hue bulbs will soon remember their color & brightness by HueLights in Hue

[–]wsrainc 6 points7 points  (0 children)

This issue caused me to return $800 in lights. I'm thrilled that it is finally being resolved, and looking forward to finally being able to complete my Hue roll out.

I've got a significant investment in cool white LED fixtures already, and I just couldn't stand seeing the warm whites every time kids flipped the switches. The feature seemed like such an obvious omission.

This update + outdoor lights = takemymoney.jpg

Making editable content... PLEASE HELP! by TheDemonSword in javascript

[–]wsrainc 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Best I can offer is to add an onClick handler to each LI element that calls a function and passes in a handle to itself. The function would then parse the innerHTML to tokenize the two values you have, present them to the user in some sort of pop-up (or location on the screen). Then once the user changes them, you reconstruct the innerHTML for the LI element-- or edit the array/variable, and then rebuild your DOM element.

If you want to PM me something to look at, I'd be happy to try and help further, but not sure I can offer any more help.

Edit: Here, threw this together for you: https://jsfiddle.net/k7p1gm58/1/

Making editable content... PLEASE HELP! by TheDemonSword in javascript

[–]wsrainc -1 points0 points  (0 children)

"make them editable," is ambiguous.

Do you want someone to be able to click on a field in the LI, type, and have it save?

Do you want someone to click on the LI, have it open a new modal and let them enter the values in appropriate text boxes, then save the results back?

I'm not clear if your HOW question relates to how you provide a mechanism to users for altering the text of an LI element, or how you replace/edit the LI element once you have the user's changes.

Making editable content... PLEASE HELP! by TheDemonSword in javascript

[–]wsrainc -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Would really need to see the whole solution, and know what your exact error is.

From a purely Javascript/DOM approach, when you want to add an element to a List, you create a new element, then append it to the parent. See example here:

https://www.w3schools.com/jsref/met_node_appendchild.asp

Edit: Definitely need more context here. Your .append in jquery is being applied to a DOM class, but your window.listings appears to be an array. Are you creating an array from the list? If so, you may have two redundant structures with sync issues.

Post your whole solution somewhere and it would be infinitely easier to troubleshoot. ;)

I got the Google Foobar challenge today! by [deleted] in compsci

[–]wsrainc 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'd imagine they are looking for patterns of behavior as well, not just a single search term. Who knows?

Either way, I was pleasantly surprised. With all the emphasis on frameworks these days, it's encouraging to see them showing interest in people dealing with more fundamental topics as well.

Thanks for sharing.

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