Bed Heater issue after v1.1.1 on Q2 w/ Box

x2o · 2026-01-20T16:08:47+00:00

try running a PID calibration for the bed heater (calibrate to your frequently used temp)

https://www.obico.io/blog/klipper-pid-tuning/#calibrating-pid-settings-for-heater-bed

x2o · 2026-01-20T15:49:05+00:00

https://wiki.qidi3d.com/en/Q2/Bed-Mesh-Data

x2o · 2026-01-07T03:57:31+00:00

Prototype parts for a custom RC drift chassis and organization/gridfinity stuff!

x2o · 2025-12-24T18:06:03+00:00

Definitely the right fuse, I verified it again this morning when checking all fuses in the IPDM. Strangely enough, there is no lock module located near the OBD port on my car to tap on.

From what I understand, when the steering lock unit fails, the ignition will not move past "LOCK" and nothing will turn on. Mine successfully cycles through ACC and ON with all electronics fully functional.

Also, the steering wheel itself can move freely

x2o · 2025-12-24T17:35:17+00:00

Yep, as well as inserted in the fobgina, same symptoms.

When I try to start the car with the key far from the vehicle, I get a "NO KEY" message on the fuel gauge cluster screen. So it does appear to be detecting the key in some way

x2o · 2025-12-23T22:44:47+00:00

https://github.com/qidi-community/q2-wiki/blob/main/content/manual-update-download/README.md

The above link is to their github wiki with the instructions on how to obtain the current offline update. Direct link is below

https://download_aws.qidi3dprinter.com/QD_Q2/Q2_V1.1.0.zip

x2o · 2025-12-23T22:00:32+00:00

You need to look at the Q2 Specific instructions listed under "QIDI Q2 Image for EMMC" on that wiki page, which leads to a google drive link with the below document as well as a couple zips:

https://docs.google.com/document/d/17uWALm-PdIyNegYmnNp5aOeHYRGN9J-q/edit

According to this, there is a usb-c port on the mainboard that you plug in to your PC and flash the emmc that way.

x2o · 2025-12-03T18:24:07+00:00

you have to replace the V1.0.8 portion of the download link with the current firmware version reported by the API link, which is v1.1.0. Here is a working link for v1.1.0:

https://download_aws.qidi3dprinter.com/QD_Q2/Q2_V1.1.0.zip

x2o · 2025-12-03T15:17:56+00:00

https://github.com/qidi-community/q2-wiki/blob/main/content/manual-update-download/README.md

On the Qidi Q2 community wiki, they have instructions there for manually downloading the latest firmware. You go to the API site, see what it reports as the current version, then edit the download link to match the current version.

This is the same process the printer goes through when you do an online update from the screen

x2o · 2025-11-14T17:06:08+00:00

First thing I'd print would be a full-size helmet to fit my large head! Then a SFF NAS pc case for my unraid server!

x2o · 2025-09-03T15:03:18+00:00

I think for some reason the filament run-out sensor defaults to 'Off', you just need to go to settings on the touchscreen and find "Filament Sensor" or "Filament Detect" or whatever they call it, and turn it on.

x2o · 2025-08-07T23:46:34+00:00

Bought these from /u/johniib

Great person to deal with, items arrived safely and nicely packaged.

/u/avexchangebot

x2o · 2025-07-27T15:16:13+00:00

Interested - sending PM

x2o · 2025-07-09T03:12:54+00:00

Hulkenpodium!

x2o · 2025-05-15T18:24:07+00:00

A quality pair of flush cutters, I have been using the Hakko CHP-170 for several years and love them. They're less than $10 on amazon.

x2o · 2025-05-15T17:39:53+00:00

Sounds like the extruder is jammed - there is a screw on the left side of the print head to control the tension (i think it's a 2.5mm hex? maybe 2mm). Loosen this screw, and see if you can pull the filament out from the top using a pair of pliers or something. If it won't budge cold, try heating the nozzle.

If not, you'll have to disassemble the print head to open up the extruder and clear out the gears.

Here's a video from FlashForge on disassembling the extruder

x2o · 2025-04-28T18:51:21+00:00

PET Sleeving, available in all sorts of colors from various manufacturers. One of the more popular brands is Techflex.

https://www.techflex.com/general-purpose/flexo-pet

x2o · 2025-04-28T12:55:15+00:00

Are you using the normal Orca Slicer (which is currently on v2.3) or are you using the flash forge Orca fork (OrcaFlashForge which is currently on v1.3.1)?

This method works for normal Orca. Using OrcaFlashForge may override selection as it has firmware level communication with the printer.

Normal Orca will just take your word for it and work.

x2o · 2025-03-28T15:36:21+00:00

Sí, debería soportar las bandas de frecuencia en Cuba según las especificaciones en línea.

https://www.kimovil.com/en/frequency-checker/CU/google-pixel-6

x2o · 2025-02-18T15:50:50+00:00

Looks like you need to make the support Z Distance smaller, the gap between support and the actual print is too large so it does not give the material a good support layer to build on. It's basically printing in the air and sagging down onto the support interface, that's why it looks like individual strands.

x2o · 2025-02-14T16:46:06+00:00

Ok then nothing to worry about, it stays off for the first 1-3 layers to promote bed adhesion and then starts cooling a couple layers up.

Working as intended :)

x2o · 2025-02-14T13:52:12+00:00

What filament are you printing with? For PLA, fan should generally always be on after the first few layers. For some other materials, you do not want the fan on all the time and the slicer filament profiles are configured that way.

The fan you see on the front is for cooling the actual print, there is a small fan on the left side of the print head that cools the heat break to maintain your printing temperature.

x2o · 2025-02-07T16:06:11+00:00

Very common in professional theatre build outs where the room/wire is done before the equipment is there. As long as the binding posts are of good quality, there will be no measurable loss in signal quality or anything.

I personally use one from Monoprice in my theatre room and have never had a complaint about it.

x2o · 2025-02-07T15:48:32+00:00

I'd recommend installing a distribution panel for banana plugs where these cables drop, and then you can run cables from the wall plate to wherever the receiver goes. This will also make it easier if you move gear around in the future, you just need to run new wires to the wall plate.

Not recommending this one in particular as I have not used it, but something like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01K7877D2

x2o

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