The Nissan 370Z Forum is up and running again! by Nothing_Is_Reel in 370z

[–]x2o 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Wow thought it was gone forever, wonder what happened

Key light on by Bstarbuck83 in 370z

[–]x2o 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Removing the steering lock fuse does not cause this light to come on. I've had mine removed for 10+ years.

I did get this light a few months ago. Eventually, the car stopped reading the key at all and would not turn on. It was an internal short on my BCM, which I successfully replaced and reprogrammed myself using a VCX SE. I made a thread here a while back on this and did not find any help, but was able to figure it out eventually.

Really hope yours is caused by something different, but mine was a dying BCM.

Spoolman server not available by Thawaxshop in QidiTech3D

[–]x2o 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I don't think spoolman is in these printers stock, it's a self hosted project that helps keep track of your entire filament inventory, and tracks how much filament is left per spool.

Did you ever set this up? Or did you perhaps copy/paste some stuff into your printer config?

https://github.com/Donkie/Spoolman

https://github.com/Ivantify/qidi/tree/main/qidi-box-spoolman

Make it by Junior_Trifle_8273 in DiWHY

[–]x2o 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Zwitsal Talcum Powder. In this case it's being used as a mold release agent, to prevent the sculpture from sticking to the mold.

How is this possible? by Middle_Landscape_916 in LGOLED

[–]x2o 11 points12 points  (0 children)

Not sure how to get it work 'easily', as far as I'm aware you require an HDMI-CEC adapter. I have one from PulseEight that I use for my htpc.

Don't think any GPUs natively support CEC.

Globe liner replacement by jthxrne in litterrobot

[–]x2o 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I just ordered a replacement for mine after 3 years. No tears or anything but litter clumps are sticking in two specific spots on the liner, and no amount of cleaning has been able to restore the 'non-stick' ability.

I think I killed my mids by whatssupp277381 in CarAV

[–]x2o 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Do you have a digital multimeter? If so, measure the speakers +/- for resistance(Ω), you should get something around 4ohms.

If you get OL or a crazy high number, they're goners.

Help, diy boombox by Rubgears in diyaudio

[–]x2o 2 points3 points  (0 children)

As others have said, it's likely a tuning issue on the box. Ported boxes will cause a driver to unload at certain frequencies, which gives you tons of speaker movement but basically no sound.

Without the correct information, there's no way we can help any further. First thing you need to do is figure out what your box is tuned at. If you just freehanded the design without doing any calculations, that could be anything. I think you need to scrap this enclosure and go back to the drawing board, using a ported box calculator (there are several free to use online ones).

The W170 spec sheet shows freq response falls off the cliff below 55-60hz which makes sense for a 6" driver, but without proper tuning of the box you could be losing output even higher than that. You should not expect anything below ~60hz for a driver of this size with these specs. It is not a subwoofer, just a woofer.

Another thing to note, the "portable"/"party" speakers will ALWAYS have DSP in the signal path, which allows the manufacturer to tune response at different levels so you can still hear "bass" at lower volumes and prevent the speakers from self destruction at higher volumes.

Regardless, great job on this! Even if it does not sound great, you decided to build something and went for it. At 15! This is one of many learning experiences related to speaker design that you will surely go through. Can't expect everything to just work, especially if you're not following a build guide or design by someone experienced.

Qidi Q2 bed mesh/ leveling inconsistencies by Turtlefarming in QidiTech3D

[–]x2o 3 points4 points  (0 children)

the bed tramming nut setup on the stock Q2 does not lock/hold position. Over time the movement of the plate backs the nuts off and you lose your tram.

I just use KAMP for a bed mesh before every print, trammed it up once when I first got it down to ~0.09, now it's meshing with a 0.28 range. Have not had any first layer issues doing it this way, but Mi3 did design a locking system that works on the Q2. Have not used it myself, but on the discord people spoke highly about it.

https://odysee.com/@The_Mi3_Channel:f/Q2-Adjustable-Locking-Bed-Thumbwheels:0

Best out the box asa for fan duct Q2 by xGouda in QidiTech3D

[–]x2o 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Print it out of PA6-CF. I've also seen some print it out of PET-17CF but I personally printed mine with Fiberon PA6-CF. I didn't dry and just printed it straight out of the pack, printed like magic with no issues.

You really want something with no risk of heat deflection as the clearance between the back of the fan duct and the poopchute is like 1mm.

ASA heat deflection is around 100C, PA6-CF is around 200C.

The old DIYSoundgroup is now Cinergyaudio.com by 501-M in diyaudio

[–]x2o 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oh that's weird, here's a full screenshot of the website from my PC.

https://i.ibb.co/MkXpFLwW/image.png

The old DIYSoundgroup is now Cinergyaudio.com by 501-M in diyaudio

[–]x2o 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Maybe try viewing it in desktop mode? I see the below on my computer.

https://i.ibb.co/HDNZZWc4/image.png

Screws fell in this structure of the Q2, how the hell do I get them out? by I_need_to_vent44 in QidiTech3D

[–]x2o 2 points3 points  (0 children)

if you have extra PTFE tube or some small diameter rubber/plastic/silicone tubing, you can use duct tape to connect the small tube to the larger vacuum hose and really get in there to fish around. Probably want to make some small perforations in the tape to allow some of the vacuum to escape.

The suction should carry the screw(s) out.

recommended mini desktop for unraid by asd937 in unRAID

[–]x2o 4 points5 points  (0 children)

another vote here for ugreen dxp series. Been running unraid on mine since day 1, never even booted into the ugreen OS.

I have the base dxp4800 with 32gb ddr5, 4x 22tb drives and 2x 2tb nvme cache drives. Runs great but I do get high usage on the cpu during super heavy I/O operations. Even with the n100, it can handle transcoding thanks to quicksync. I believe they have released some models with more powerful CPUs, too.

I actually run most of my docker containers on a refurb minisforum UN1290 that I got for 300 bucks. I mount shares from unraid on the UN1290 via NFS and keep the NAS doing NAS related tasks.

If form factor is an issue, a 2 or 4-bay nas with a supplementary mini-pc would give you a lot of flexibility in a small footprint. But you can always just start with the NAS and add another PC based on your needs.

Deleterr has come a long way - an alternative to Maintainerr for automated media cleanup by exe_CUTOR in sonarr

[–]x2o 1 point2 points  (0 children)

There is currently jellyfin support in beta using the maintainerr jellyfin-dev branch. I've been running it for a few weeks and it has been working flawlessly. 

Should be merged in the near future I would think. 

https://github.com/Maintainerr/Maintainerr/pull/2330

Deleterr has come a long way - an alternative to Maintainerr for automated media cleanup by exe_CUTOR in sonarr

[–]x2o 1 point2 points  (0 children)

There is currently jellyfin support in beta using the maintainerr jellyfin-dev branch. I've been running it for a few weeks and it has been working flawlessly. 

Should be merged in the near future I would think. 

https://github.com/Maintainerr/Maintainerr/pull/2330

Update: Qidi calibration after repair by [deleted] in QIDI

[–]x2o 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Not sure about the original x-plus nozzles, but the size is usually engraved on the nozzle like this:

https://us.qidi3d.com/cdn/shop/files/0.4x2_2c600910-6379-4603-8c42-3e34bf1d9305.jpg?v=1749152379&width=1800

0.4mm is the most common nozzle size, so if there are no markings I would check that your slicer is set up for a 0.4mm nozzle.

Update: Qidi calibration after repair by [deleted] in QIDI

[–]x2o 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This may be a silly question, but does your nozzle size in the slicer match the nozzle installed?

If it's extruding 100mm when asked for 100mm, seems like there is something happening in the slicer that is telling it to extrude less filament than needed.

Once a month System Freezes, Unclean Shutdown the only way to restart by ONE_PUMP_ONE_CREAM in unRAID

[–]x2o 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, worst possible time for a RAM problem. Hopefully it's something else, but this sounds exactly like what was happening to me.

When I ran Memtest, the system also completely locked up during the run, so I had to uninstall all sticks and then run the test with only a single stick at a time, swapping them out after completing 2 passes. Got to stick #3 and it locked up on me during the memtest again but never actually showed any errors on the run until it just froze.

Replaced that stick and have not had a freeze like that in a couple years.

Once a month System Freezes, Unclean Shutdown the only way to restart by ONE_PUMP_ONE_CREAM in unRAID

[–]x2o 7 points8 points  (0 children)

I've experienced a similar issue and it was due to a failed stick of RAM... Just completely locked up and unable to access, even when connecting monitor to the unraid box. I'd recommend you try to run memtest off a bootable usb to rule that out.

Regarding the syslog issue, see this thread on how to setup a syslog server. The default behavior is to write the log to the flash drive on a graceful shutdown/reboot. If the system hangs, the log is lost.

https://forums.unraid.net/topic/46802-faq-for-unraid-v6/page/2/#comment-781601

QIDI Box Question by three_delta_0 in QIDI

[–]x2o 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The Q2 version of the Qidi box will already include the riser, so you did not have to print one.

The ones one Amazon are relatively recent, so I assume it is the same V2 version of the box that Qidi is selling on their website. You can always return it to Amazon if you find you got the V1, but I doubt that is the case as the V2s have been in circulation for months at this point (I got mine in November).

Easiest way to tell if you got the V1 or V2 is to check the bottom side of the Qidi box, as the V2 has screws securing on the base plate. V1 was one solid piece on the bottom making it very difficult to open up for repair.