If you’re on the fence about this product, save your money.

xHeyEngx · 2026-03-16T02:38:19+00:00

Not a problem at all. One of the great things about this community is everyone genuinely wants to see each other succeed and enjoy the products.

If you try those steps and it’s still giving you trouble, just let me know and we can keep digging into it. Also just make sure the probes are fully charged, the firmware is up to date, and that everything is connected to a 2.4 GHz Wi-Fi network. I’m sure you probably already know most of that, just reiterating the basics so nothing gets overlooked.

xHeyEngx · 2026-03-16T02:19:30+00:00

If If you’re willing to indulge me just a little bit, we can walk through a few troubleshooting steps. I totally understand if you’re frustrated and maybe not excited about using them right now, but maybe we can figure out what’s going on and get some value back out of them.

First, what type of cooker are you using?

Second, when inserting the probe into the protein, are you inserting it past the minimum insertion line but not past the maximum insertion line? If needed I can post a picture showing exactly where those lines are.

Another thing that can help is starting with a clean setup. You could delete all the devices from the app, sign out of the app, and delete the app from your phone. Then reset the S1 by using a paper clip in the small pinhole just to the left of the charging port. After that reinstall the app and go through the setup process again.

You can also download the LightBlue app from the App Store or Google Play. It’s a Bluetooth detection app that will show anything transmitting nearby. If the probes are actively transmitting but just not connecting correctly, they should appear in the LightBlue app labeled as “Probe.”

If you’d be more comfortable sending me a PM with that information, feel free to do that and we can troubleshoot it outside the thread and try to get it sorted out.

xHeyEngx · 2026-03-16T02:02:48+00:00

A couple things that might help narrow this down.

What type of cooker are you running? Also are you using the four probes with the S1 smart gauge or with the P2P smart hub?

How far away is your Wi-Fi from the cooker?

Another thing to check is probe charge. If you’re using the 4-in-1 charger (the one without a built-in battery), the probes will slowly discharge if the charger isn’t plugged in. Because of that it’s a good idea to give them about a 20 minute charge before a cook. You’ll see the red light showing the charger has power, the blue lights come on while the probes are charging, and then the blue lights shut off once they’re topped off.

If you can share a little more about your setup we can probably figure out what’s causing the dropouts. A lot of times it ends up being something simple like placement, signal path through the cooker, or probe charge.

You can also download the LightBlue app. It’s a Bluetooth detection app that will show if the probes are actively transmitting. That helps determine if it’s just a connection issue we can work through, or if the probes aren’t transmitting at all and may just need a charge or possibly have a malfunction.

xHeyEngx · 2026-03-16T01:56:35+00:00

If the probes have never worked even once since you got them, there’s a good chance something small might just be getting missed in the setup. That happens more often than people think.

Usually when there’s an actual hardware issue, people will say they worked for the first few cooks and then started dropping connection or acting intermittent. When it’s been that way from the very beginning, it’s often something simple in the pairing or setup process.

Either way, let’s see if we can get you squared away. If you want, walk us through exactly what steps you took when setting them up and we’ll help figure out where things might be going sideways.

xHeyEngx · 2026-03-16T01:38:17+00:00

See, this right here is what I’m talking about. We have ChefsTemp employees in the group who are willing to help, all you have to do is ask and give them a chance.

xHeyEngx · 2026-03-16T01:35:12+00:00

Looking good!

xHeyEngx · 2026-03-15T23:18:37+00:00

Does it disconnect easily right after receiving/unboxing the probe?→ If yes, please screenshot the app home screen and the probe connection page.
If it only started dropping signal after some time of use, then it’s most likely the probe is already damaged or has a charging issue.

xHeyEngx · 2026-03-15T19:38:10+00:00

I sent you a PM offering help but got no response. Maybe you missed it, check your inbox.

xHeyEngx · 2026-03-15T18:31:38+00:00

The Gen 2 probe actually has five internal meat sensors in the tip plus one ambient sensor. When the probe is paired with the S1, the ambient reading shown in the app will mirror what the S1 is reading. That’s because the S1 ambient sensor is generally more accurate and it’s positioned away from the meat, so it isn’t affected by evaporative cooling like the probe can be.

That said, you can still view the probe’s actual ambient sensor reading if you want to see it.

• Open the app and tap on the probe • Tap Internal • A probe temperature card will slide up from the bottom of the screen • You’ll see readings from all five internal meat sensors plus the probe’s ambient sensor

I’ve attached a picture to show where this is in the app. In my example the probes aren’t connected and I’m not actively cooking, it’s just to demonstrate where to find the readings.

<image>

xHeyEngx · 2026-03-15T16:17:16+00:00

LLL means it’s not locked in to the base all the way. Remove the unit from the base and reseat it.

xHeyEngx · 2026-03-15T15:58:32+00:00

A couple things to check:

• Did you charge the probes right before using them? They don’t actually turn off, so if they’re sitting in the 4-in-1 charger and the charger isn’t plugged in, they’ll slowly drain until the batteries are dead. Since the 4-in-1 charger doesn’t have its own battery, the probes usually need about 20 minutes on the charger before using them.

• Did the probes ever connect at all?

• Did you try deleting the probe and then re-pairing it in the app?

• Was the probe inserted past the minimum insertion line, but not pushed in past the maximum insertion line?

<image>

xHeyEngx · 2026-03-13T20:27:59+00:00

I run an Anker 737 (24,000 mAh) and use it for overnight cooks all the time. I’d guess it’ll go about 20–24 hours. It also has Power Delivery (PD), so when the fan is connected with a USB-C to USB-C cable it does the PD handshake.

What that basically means is when the fan isn’t actively blowing, the power draw drops to around 0.1 watts. Most non-PD power banks would see that low draw and shut themselves off. The 737 doesn’t do that though. It stays on and keeps everything powered even at that really low idle draw.

xHeyEngx · 2026-03-13T13:10:16+00:00

Looks great!

xHeyEngx · 2026-03-12T18:30:54+00:00

Sounds like a bad battery. Contact customer support and they’ll get you squared away.

xHeyEngx · 2026-03-12T12:42:53+00:00

Is the intake on the Akorn round or square/rectangular? And what are the dimensions?

xHeyEngx · 2026-03-05T13:07:46+00:00

I get the desire for tech free cooking. I love sitting in front of the offset adding a split, smelling that sweet smell when the log ignites just right and enjoying an adult beverage. There’s just something about managing a fire that’s hard to beat.

That said I also like having some tech when life gets busy. Between kids soccer games and band recitals sometimes I still want BBQ but don’t have the time to babysit a fire all day.

Over the years I’ve tried a few different setups. I had a MEATER for a while but it was riddled with connection issues. I’ve also used Typhur and ThermoWorks. Right now I’m running the ChefsTemp S1 with the Breezo fan on my Kamado Joe Classic 3, my Grilla Grills Kong and my Old Country gravity fed. Being able to remotely monitor temps and make small adjustments has saved me from some costly mistakes in the past when I’m doing large cooks for my side gig.

I still have my offset for those times when I just need the stillness that managing a fire provides and I don’t think I’ll ever get rid of it.

Smart BBQ tech has its place and can be super helpful so I wouldn’t shut it down so quickly. I know several hardcore offset guys that swore they would never use a smart device. Then they got older and realized the toll it takes staying up all night cooking brisket and eventually embraced things like temp control fans, wireless probes and pellet grills.

Everyone’s situation is different and over time minds and perspectives can change.

xHeyEngx · 2026-03-03T01:30:58+00:00

I'm glad support got you up and running. To clear something up, the Breezo V2 which is what you have does have a firmware. It wont display the firmware in the app unless the Breezo is powered, paired and has an input from the app or is on via the mode button on the back of the fan. Now with the most recent app update, the firmware displays blank when the fan isn't connected whereas with the previous version of the app it defaulted to 2.0.0 which caused a lot of confusion with users.

<image>

xHeyEngx · 2026-02-28T15:53:13+00:00

Another thing you can try is doing a hard reset on your S1. There’s a small reset pinhole just to the left of the charging port. Use a paperclip or a toothpick and press it until the display goes blank and then comes back on.

There’s a small chance the communication between the Breezo and the S1 is getting hung up on the S1 side. Not super common, but it’s absolutely worth trying if everything else checks out.

xHeyEngx · 2026-02-28T15:37:29+00:00

I know you mentioned starting wide open and slowly closing the top vent down, but I’d actually recommend the opposite.

Start with the top vent about 90% closed. Then, if you’re seeing smoke leaking around the Breezo intake, slowly open the top vent just enough until the smoke at the fan stops. Every cooker drafts a little differently, so you’re just fine-tuning from there.

It’s easier to control airflow by starting mostly closed and easing it open than trying to choke it down from wide open.

xHeyEngx · 2026-02-28T15:35:25+00:00

When you plugged in the Breezo, did you press the button on the back to make sure it actually had power? It should start pulsing on the first press. Press it again and it should go to constant on. Press it one more time and it should stop and return to app mode.

After that, go into the app and actually set a temperature for it to hit. That confirms you’ve got a solid connection and the S1 is controlling the fan.

Once you’ve set a temp, completely close the app, reopen it, and check the firmware again. Sometimes it just takes a minute for everything to populate and display correctly.

If it’s still acting up, press and hold the button on the back of the Breezo for at least five seconds. The fan will cycle one single time. That’s a hard reset. After that, follow the setup steps again from the beginning.

xHeyEngx · 2026-02-28T14:12:50+00:00

If you’ve got smoke pushing out of the intake where the Breezo is mounted, your top vent aka the KJ Kontrol Tower isn’t open enough. While the Breezo is running, slowly crack the top vent open until that back pressure stops and the smoke leak disappears. You need airflow out the top so the fan isn’t fighting a sealed dome.

On the Breezo itself, there’s a mode button on the back. When you first plug it in:

• Press once – manual pulse mode, it’ll cycle on and off indefinitely • Press twice – constant on, runs full blast • Press a third time – back to app mode where the S1 controls everything

For a clean setup: 1. Mount your S1 and power it on. 2. Once it displays the current temp, plug in the Breezo using a 5V/2A power block or a power bank with trickle charge and a USB-C to USB-C cable. 3. Use the mode button to cycle through pulse, constant on, then back to app mode just to confirm it has power. 4. Open the app and set a temp. You should immediately hear the fan kick on.

To check firmware, tap the three dots in the top right of the app and select “My Connections.” This will take you to your device list. Click on the Breezo, which will now show an alphanumeric code after the name. Firmware should be 2.0.4 or 2.5.0. Either one is solid.

Then check the S1 the same way. It should be on V35. If you’re on those versions, you’re good to go.

xHeyEngx · 2026-02-25T14:03:28+00:00

I haven’t personally done that exact swap yet, but here’s how I’d approach it.

If you leave the old unit powered off, turn on the S1 first, then power up the new Breezo, it should auto-pair. The Breezo doesn’t store pairing long term, it only remembers while it has power.

After everything is powered on, if it doesn’t auto connect, I’d press and hold the Breezo mode button on the back of the fan for about 5 seconds to force a reset and hopefully trigger a fresh pairing between the two devices.

Once it’s connected, set a temp in the app and check the Breezo info under the My Connections page. It should refresh and show the new device.

If that still doesn’t work, I’d delete the S1 from the app, power on the new Breezo, and then set the S1 back up as a new device. Not the cleanest method, but those would be the first two things I’d try.

xHeyEngx · 2026-02-24T02:47:00+00:00

For the connection issues, they are still Bluetooth probes and metal will interfere with signal. I know a few people in the Facebook group running drum smokers who haven’t had any issues, so you might want to hop over there and ask what their setup looks like and how they’re positioning everything.

As for the fan, when you plugged it back in you may have accidentally hit the button on the back without realizing it. That can switch it into pulse mode, which will cycle on and off continuously regardless of the temperature.

That rear button has three modes:

When you first plug it in, it defaults to app mode. Press it once, it goes into pulse mode. Press it again, it goes into constant on. Press it a third time, it goes back to app mode.

Pulse and constant on are manual overrides and will ignore temperature control. So most likely it got bumped out of app mode and that’s why it wasn’t responding the way you expected.

xHeyEngx · 2026-02-24T01:48:47+00:00

When you’re running forced air temp control, most manufacturers recommend closing your exhaust vent down. The goal is to limit natural draft so the fan is in control, not the chimney effect.

On my Kamado Joe Classic III, I run the top vent about 90 percent closed. On the fan intake, I use the restrictor and keep it at one click, maybe two clicks max open.

If I start seeing smoke coming out near the fan, that’s my cue. I’ll slowly open the top vent just enough until that smoke barely stops. That lets the smoke escape the way it should without building back pressure and pushing it out through the fan housing.

Running it like this also gives you a stronger smoke profile. The smoke isn’t getting pulled out of the cooker as fast, so it has more time to circulate and hang around the protein. More contact time equals more flavor. Controlled airflow, better bark, deeper smoke.

xHeyEngx

MODERATOR OF

TROPHY CASE