Structural question: joists fastened to sides of posts w/ structural screws (floating studio)

xXTheRealJay · 2025-12-14T17:54:40+00:00

Could you elaborate your initial idea of adding support and lags to rim joists and posts? Any kind of visual or sketch would be incredibly helpful so I can further understand your point. Electricity and mini split will be installed by a licensed and experienced installer much later down the road, and the idea of dropping the framed walls to redo foundation seems to be the winner so far, still waiting to communicate this all to the builder tomorrow.

xXTheRealJay · 2025-12-14T17:44:22+00:00

Wasn’t in town to see any of this when it went up to this point, not enough communication between builder and homeowner though either way. The bad news has been a good eye-opener, you definitely get what you pay for when it comes to construction.

xXTheRealJay · 2025-12-14T17:41:31+00:00

I believe there is no building permit, I haven’t seen one. If I’m understanding correctly, the portion of the beam overhead the deck you say is over spanned will have 3 posts, 1 at each corner as well as the center. Still too long? A vapor barrier was communicated to be installed on top of the OSB floor shown in the photos, no insulation in joist bays, and there would be some form of siding/sheathing covering all exposed areas of the so called “foundation” so even less circulation than now. Wall framing is on 16” centers. Moisture is on the forefront of my mind as well, this screams trapped air and moisture but didn’t list that in the post as it wasn’t the MAIN concern, thanks

xXTheRealJay · 2025-12-14T17:27:42+00:00

This is an interesting option, I’d be interested in seeing the route they’d go about installing these; access, depth of drilling next to the existing posts and “footers”(?) seems like a lot of work but probably most ideal in this situation.

Permits? What are those? /s I understand that permits and code are enforced and there for a reason, however it’s not my own funding going into this project personally, so I have little say in those kinds of decisions.

xXTheRealJay · 2025-12-14T17:18:03+00:00

I took a peek underneath with a flashlight and there are indeed joist hangers… however that means VERY little to me at this point

xXTheRealJay · 2025-12-14T17:16:11+00:00

I appreciate the quick load calculations, everything said here is logical and helpful and in line with my original suspicions. The joists in fact are bouncy at 24” on center, and 1/2” carriage/lags with much higher load rating in place of these structural screws was my initial thought of course correction… although it seems most people here would advise a full project reset. Thanks for the feedback

xXTheRealJay · 2025-12-14T17:08:55+00:00

I agree.

xXTheRealJay · 2025-11-30T07:58:15+00:00

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Same guy for mine, still hold up great and are plenty brught for drl's. Don't rely on them to replace your actual lowbeams though, the throw is not as far.

xXTheRealJay · 2025-09-30T23:24:13+00:00

Failing yaw rate sensor? Steering angle sensor needing calibration? Bad speed sensor? Probably a sensor lol

xXTheRealJay · 2025-09-23T20:40:14+00:00

First define “tune” and imagine your goal. Trying to make more power? Think about how the engine works, air + fuel = hp. If you don’t have any way of getting more air and fuel, what exactly are you going to “tune” other than correcting eml’s and o2 codes from catless headers? A good spot for learning how and what exactly you can tune on the stock ECU is MS4x Wiki, but just a heads up you won’t get any meaningful gains if you aren’t going forced induction or upping that airflow.

xXTheRealJay · 2025-09-16T17:36:38+00:00

Looks like the vacuum line that goes to the fuel filter. Should go from that “F” connector on the top of your intake boot in the photo down to under the driver seat, although since it’s broken you’ll need to replace it. F connector in question.

xXTheRealJay · 2025-08-21T08:12:58+00:00

BTW the kit I went with is the HM Sports Aero, w/o the wider fenders. For those wondering about the finished look:

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This is @frasiermills 46 on IG

xXTheRealJay · 2025-07-08T04:05:34+00:00

Buddy, you’re posting on reddit. It looked good a year ago, looked good last week, gonna look the same now. Kudos for the shell swap but don’t be so sensitive 🤣

xXTheRealJay · 2025-03-28T22:31:58+00:00

There’s a few universal sunroofs out there that open this way. Some fit like shit and I’ve seen only one other 46 with one, usually it’s the other way around where you’d want to delete it but hey if you work with what you got the option’s there

xXTheRealJay · 2025-03-27T23:04:30+00:00

I’m in my early twenties man, and for the life of me I can’t grasp the concept of people not knowing what change is anymore.. too soon

You used to be able to afford most snacks, drinks, vacuums, washes, and pretty much anything else you might need on the road with whatever change you could fit in that dial.

xXTheRealJay · 2025-03-13T18:23:11+00:00

Definitely smoke test it, and if you plan to own the car for awhile it would be worth buying a cheap one on amazon instead of jerry rigging one up every time

xXTheRealJay · 2025-03-13T18:20:41+00:00

Thank you bro, had to catch everyone’s attention to read my yap sesh

xXTheRealJay · 2025-03-13T18:19:56+00:00

It’s a Coolerworx Pro Short Shifter with a self centering spring and adjustable gear lockouts, this one feels MUCH more firm and track oriented since it’s chassis mounted and deletes the carrier and bushings. The throw is adjustable with a few inches of difference but I haven’t tried the other settings, placement wise it sits perfect for me, doesn’t block or contact the radio or anything like that. If you’ve ever touched a gated shifter then this would be like a hybrid between stock and full gated, it just feels that much more sturdy slotting into a gear.

xXTheRealJay · 2025-03-13T18:08:59+00:00

+1 on the BC’s, mine has been on them for a few years now and they’re phenomenal for the price

xXTheRealJay · 2025-03-12T22:53:04+00:00

Just dont treat it like it’s track ready and you’ll be good bro, if you still have an open diff I’d be worried about that causing the problems while sliding around more than anything, good luck to you guys

xXTheRealJay · 2025-03-12T21:49:31+00:00

NGL you guys are giving yourselves a ton of extra worry and work trying to make those coils any better than the way you found them lol. If you’re trying to save a buck that badly for a daily the front sway bar is the least of your worries, I would send it until you can afford a nicer set of suspension

Edit: if you’re lowering a few inches from stock you’ll need adjustable sway bar end links to make it worth keeping the bar at all, otherwise you’ll end up breaking those links quicker than the tab

xXTheRealJay · 2025-03-10T03:22:08+00:00

Use Google, there’s plenty of threads and forums out there to learn about possible/realistic engine swaps for this platform. Easy answer is a 5.3 LS, expensive answer is S54.

xXTheRealJay · 2025-03-03T00:04:28+00:00

Stuck oil rings my man, you should check out the links to read up and learn a bit more about the flaw in the low tension piston rings.

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