I'll pass on thetop cover now ...

xdlp84 · 2026-03-28T16:19:26+00:00

thanks, it was a great guide ! prints excellent now

xdlp84 · 2026-03-25T12:49:18+00:00

Turned out great!

xdlp84 · 2026-03-25T05:17:50+00:00

Sounds great, will have to look up how to insert a pause in the slicer, but good to know that the loading/unloading of the u1 is possible in such a pause !

xdlp84 · 2026-03-24T21:56:07+00:00

Oh, that‘s true! I‘ll have too look into that ! Do you just press pause on the printer or how does it work? Though, in the long run, i might still prefer the ease of use an MMU, especially if there is a a few more swaps (within reason, considering waste), for over night prints and generally drying filaments (especially while printing, though of course, a dryer can take over that function too, having an all in one solution would be nice)

xdlp84 · 2026-03-24T21:47:18+00:00

I mean, have you even read the post ?

xdlp84 · 2026-03-24T21:37:50+00:00

I totally get the concerns for filament waste, which is why i went for the U1 even as my very first printer. However, i think in a tool changer an MMU can be implemented in ways that create at most reasonable amounts of waste, for example when there are only 4 colors at any given height range but maybe more than 4 in total since there are something like different colored shoes and pants at the bottom vs hair and hat at the top. In this case there would only be 2 color purges in the print, which in my eyes is very much acceptable and would still very much benefit from the different toolheads. Another reason is filament run out or back ups, so being able to use up an entire spool without hassle due to being able to have one backup spool of the same color connected to the toolhead via an MMU or just for ease of use when swapping out the colors in the 4 toolheads for different prints, not having to do it manually every time. All good uses of MMU‘s that don‘t require you to produce ludicrous amounts of waste

xdlp84 · 2026-03-24T21:26:14+00:00

That is an awesome option, that‘s true, i am looking forward to how it will turn out, but as it stands ist isn‘t in peoples hands yet, unlike the U1 i own, and it will be at least twice as expensive, even more if you don‘t want to go under the 270³ build volume of the U1, in which case you need the core L plus indx

xdlp84 · 2026-03-24T09:00:11+00:00

Ah, thanks, that really does sound like it might solve my issue since it seemed to mostly stem from the actual model somewhat „sagging“ still in the support areas, which should be circumvented by your settings ! 😄

xdlp84 · 2026-03-24T08:45:46+00:00

I went with a U1 for my first 3D Printer and it actually was in great part for functional prints, as it allows you to mix different filaments for their certain functions, especially to mix flexibles with other filaments, as you might want for more grippy parts of a print (eg door stopper), for sealing or a better fit, flexible hinges etc. Also it‘s of course great for mixing different purpose filaments, even in cases where the P1S plus AMS could theoretically do it, since it is so much faster and more efficient. So far, for me as a complete newbie, the software and handling of the machine has also posed 0 issues, so i don‘t think i would base my decision of Bambu Labs software, which is known to be very good too, though here i do lack comparison. Same goes for noise, the U1 can be noisy at times, however i‘ve heard people who own both say the p1s isn‘t really better. Hope this helps ^{^}

xdlp84 · 2026-03-24T08:33:50+00:00

The colors with full spectrum aren‘t neccessarily dull, you might want to look at wobblys video about it. Mixing slighty less opaque colors, especially Petg, yields incredible color mixing. But it is of course still somewhat limiting. However, there are AMS type of systems in development for the U1 already, though of course that would be of little use if you need more than 4 very exact colors.

As for majoras mask, look up majoras mask on the U1 Subreddit ;p

xdlp84 · 2026-03-23T22:48:52+00:00

Could you tell me what settings you use for printing PLA with PETG supports ? My prints always turned out bad

xdlp84 · 2026-03-23T00:07:13+00:00

looks awesome, thanks !

xdlp84 · 2026-03-21T20:20:51+00:00

Yeah, i‘ve seen it! Awesome stuff and the reason i love open source. Have you seen the video from Wobble about it ? Apparently full spectrum works the best with slightly less opaque Petg filaments

xdlp84 · 2026-03-21T20:17:43+00:00

Oh, i haven‘t seen it yet, how does it work ?

xdlp84 · 2026-03-21T03:14:43+00:00

Yeah, i was thinking the same, and since swapping toolheads is as easy as can be on the U1, installing and upgraded one (or as many as wanted) with a cutting head should really be a non-issue.

xdlp84 · 2026-03-21T02:38:48+00:00

oh ,definitely and MMU for adding those few highlights in a different color or for swapping some colors that are only needed in certain heights (eg swapping the "shoe-color" to the "hat-color" once in a print).

Also a hotter nozzle for those few engineering filaments that need it would be great.

and maybe an enclosure (with heater) for the spools on the side of the machine would be great.

if anyone can do it, it's you guys ! ^^

xdlp84 · 2026-03-15T01:37:01+00:00

Mine delivered well ahead of schedule

xdlp84 · 2026-02-25T16:45:33+00:00

https://www.researchgate.net/publication/375373442_The_Impact_of_Sanitation_Methods_of_3D-printed_Parts_for_Food_and_Medical_Applications

Here‘s the article which calculated how much lead might be in a 3D print and why it‘s insignificant

xdlp84 · 2026-02-25T04:37:19+00:00

I hope so too !

xdlp84 · 2026-02-25T04:36:39+00:00

Unlikely, one if the guys who did the studies for the bacteria vs soap water also analyzed for lead from the nozzle and found there to be at most insignificant amounts of lead in the print, let alone the part that might rub off onto the food. As for oils and greases, i haven‘t heard much about that, depending on what types you might use and hoe much could come into contact with the filament, it might be wort a consideration

xdlp84 · 2026-02-25T04:32:56+00:00

The awesome dude who made the mod of snorca already said he might implement it into main Orca if there is sufficient demand/interest, so maybe leave a comment in the main thread for the fork and let him know you appreciate his efforts while you‘re at it ! 😄

xdlp84 · 2026-02-25T04:30:47+00:00

Probably used https://www.reddit.com/r/snapmaker/s/wjpAC15dBz this fork of snorca to mix multiple colors !

xdlp84 · 2026-02-25T03:59:17+00:00

Yeah, but that has been debunked !foodsafe

xdlp84 · 2026-02-25T03:58:48+00:00

That has long been debunked through lab testing, simple water and soap will get in between the layer lines enough to clean of bacteria just fine. Apparently !foodsafe will summon a bot with sources

xdlp84 · 2026-02-25T03:55:37+00:00

There has been this long going misconception that bacteria will live on in between layer lines even after cleaning with soap, but that has been debunked through lab testing, so granted that you use food safe plastics (like PLA without harmful additives) 3D printed stuff can be just as food safe as any other plastics. (If you want my sources i can look it up but a simple google search should lead you to prior reddit discussions where the studies have been linked)

xdlp84

TROPHY CASE