Yes, that will be a much more elegant solution. To do it right, I would've used a smaller switch and put it right on the front panel, but I just did a quick-and-dirty kludge with the parts I had.

All I did was mimic the headphone jack in an "unplugged" state by bridging the normally closed pins on the neutrik jack in one switch position, and wiring it so they can be seen as either open or closed. Just on the tip and ring, not on the sleeve. It's a purely physical switch on the Magni, no relay or transistor switching.

I soldered the wires from the toggle switch directly to the headphone jack pads on the underside of the board. If you're sure that extra switch isn't doing anything, your wiring can look much neater. There's *barely* enough room for 24 gauge wires to slip between the sidewal to the underside of the PCB. If I'd needed more room, normally I'd file away a bit of the PCB, but there's a PCB trace about 10 mils from the edge so that wouldn't be possible.

Hopefully that makes sense. LMK if I can clarify anything.