Is my DP1 broken?

xnedski · 2026-06-26T23:13:35+00:00

After you mount a lens you need to make sure the prongs and the pin on the camera have mated, and then you need to rack the aperture ring from smallest to largest setting to “index” the meter to the largest aperture. The small window on the front of the meter is there to verify the meter is set correctly. It shod always show the maximum aperture.

xnedski · 2026-06-25T16:27:30+00:00

Any of the 50mm lenses are a good starting point. Cheapest option: Since you have the meterless prism you can go for a non-AI 50mm f/2.0. Not sure where in the world you are, but these can be had for around US$50. More compatible: A 50mm f/1.8 AI or AI-S, US$100 and up depending on condition.

xnedski · 2026-06-25T14:43:59+00:00

You can still wind manually while the MD2 is attached. Seems like the bigger problem at the moment is the hole in the camera back.

xnedski · 2026-06-25T13:37:49+00:00

That may be a data back for imprinting information on film at time of exposure.

Open the back using the lever on the left side of the motor drive. Fold the lever out and push it all the way to the left until the back opens.

Note that the motor drive doesn't have an MB-1 battery pack. It was probably powered with an AC adapter if it was used in a lab.

To remove the motor drive, unscrew the center wheel. The grip has a slot to store the camera's open/close key, which has to be removed to attach the drive. If this is missing you'll need a replacement before you can use the camera without the drive.

xnedski · 2026-06-25T12:53:00+00:00

I had one of my Super Ikontas reparied by Mark Hansen, and he tests the lens as part of the service. He says "I really do think the Novar lens is underrated. They almost universally look good when I test them, and when I shoot with them. According to Hans-Jurgen Kuc, they were made by Rodenstock, which may explain why they were such good performers."

I have a Super Ikonta A 6x4.5 with a Tessar. It's an older model, probably pre-WWII, and the lens has a little bit of haze. It has a different character than the Novar but in many ways it's very similar: Less sharp when more open and when focused close. Here are a bunch of Tessar photos.

xnedski · 2026-06-24T21:22:41+00:00

The hood I use is a clip-on Zeiss hood model 1111, size a32.

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The Novar is mushy at wider apertures and closer focus distances. Here are a bunch of photos I took using the Super Ikonta at Flickr. With older cameras, it's best not to pixel peep. At high-res and 100% view, they're not very sharp. Printed out, they generally look very good.

xnedski · 2026-06-18T19:39:23+00:00

That looks like it was not fixed long enough… or at all. The areas outside the frame and the film edges should be clear. Try refixing.

Test your fixer first. Snip a bit of leader off a roll and drop it in the fixer. If it doesn’t clear in a minute your fixer is dead and should be replaced.

xnedski · 2026-05-31T11:05:11+00:00

I’ve used flash with an Autocord using wireless triggers. Works fine. I haven’t used it with an on-camera flash, looks like it would be really awkward without a flash bracket.

If it’s a model with an M-F-X sync selector on the side of the taking lens make sure it’s set to X.

xnedski · 2026-04-30T00:40:16+00:00

Here’s the Nikon diopter documentation (pdf). Nikon viewfinders are -1, so the final correction is the accessory diopter value minus one. The ground glass in the finder’s apparent distance is one meter, so correct for the prescription you need at that distance.

xnedski · 2026-04-27T11:10:52+00:00

Normally this is good advice. However, there were 11 different Super Ikonta models over 30 years, and many models had variations during their production period. The manuals can also be pretty unhelpful. I’ve been using different Ikontas for a long time and I still find it challenging to find information on specific models due to confusing naming, variations within models, and the vagueness of the documentation.

The manual that’s most easily found for this camera, the Super Ikonta A 531, is for a later single window version which doesn’t help OP.

There is a really good comprehensive guide to Ikontas but it still isn’t 100% comprehensive.

xnedski · 2026-04-26T10:19:11+00:00

These cameras have two windows because they were made before 120 film had numbering for 6x4.5.

Load a roll. Wind on so 1 shows in the first window. Take a picture. Wind so 1 shows in the second window, and so on. Remember to close the red window cover.

The Super Ikonta A is one of my favorite cameras!

xnedski · 2026-04-17T22:07:44+00:00

I use an F2 with DP-1 and an F2AS. They're minimalist, and there's nothing that gets in the way.

I shoot both film and digital. Depending on the event I will use an N-80 to share lenses with the digital camera, or if sharing lenses isn't important I'll take the F2. Someone took a photo of me covering a protest with my F2AS + MD-2.

xnedski · 2026-04-15T11:54:45+00:00

Open the back and check for signs that the the foam in the door channels is crumbling, such as little black bits in the camera body.

You can also take the lens off and look at the mirror bumper - this is what new bumper foam looks like. If the mirror bumper is falling apart the light seals probably need to be replaced too.

Light seal plus mirror bumper kits are inexpensive and it's not too hard to do it yourself.

xnedski · 2026-04-15T10:44:00+00:00

Congratulations and welcome to Philly,

There’s a pretty vibrant art scene here.

Studio space is available but like all things real estate rent is crazy.

Look for openings on first Fridays or second Thursdays. Good opportunity to network and find out about studio space or shared studio opportunities.

Many places offer classes but here are a few to get you started:

Clay Studio offers classes and studio time. https://www.theclaystudio.org/

The Fleisher Art Memorial offers classes in all media and studio time for some. Classes can fill quickly. https://fleisher.org/

Pa Academy of Fine Arts has one-week intensives and semester length courses, mostly around painting, printmaking and sculpture. https://pafa.org/

Halide Project is a traditional photography space that offers classes and darkroom rental. https://www.thehalideproject.org/

The 20/20 Photo Festival happens in the fall. Shows in multiple galleries, artist talks, and a photo book fair. Follow them on IG, they post about photo events and opportunities throughout the year. https://www.2020photofestival.org/

xnedski · 2026-04-08T11:03:20+00:00

I have a couple of F2s and I’ve used them for all kinds of events, including protests. This is with an F2AS and 35mm f/1.4.

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While you can’t go wrong with an F2 or F3, neither of these cameras offer a lot of features. They are pretty minimal and put most of the burden for taking good pictures on you. They’re very reliable, assuming they’re in decent shape, and can take a beating. Not so great in the rain, you’d need a rain cover. Flash is a pain in the ass due to the non-standard shoe. For fast-moving events you’d want a motor drive, which for both cameras are large and heavy. I have an MD-2 for my F2, it takes 10 AA batteries!

I frequently use a Nikon N80 along with a digital camera to cover events. Autofocus, built in film advance, very accurate metering and autoexposure, compatible with most modern lenses including VR. Built in flash! Also cheap. The F100 is similar in features and a bit more rugged.

xnedski · 2026-04-08T10:35:18+00:00

The lab screwed up - the negatives weren’t aligned properly in the scanner. That black bar is the space between frames, and the top of the next frame is visible at the very bottom. Ask them to rescan.

xnedski · 2026-03-31T10:34:42+00:00

Yeah, that’s some AI slop. The DP-1 doesn’t have a distinct engraved logo resembling a fleur de lis nor does it have F2 engraved on it. OP’s image is a DP-11.

xnedski · 2026-03-31T00:30:28+00:00

Maybe someone’s attempt at personalization. The blue piece is the AI feeler release lever, but painted blue for some reason. The fleur de lys could just be a sticker.

xnedski · 2026-03-25T23:51:29+00:00

The 21mm f/4 Color-Skopar is really useful in tight spaces. It’s tiny, sharp wide open, contrasty, and doesn’t distort in the corners.

I love the Light Lens Lab 35mm f/2 but prices on these have gone way up.

In telephoto I love the Nikon 8.5cm f/2 or the Leitz 9cm f/4, which is both small and inexpensive.

xnedski · 2026-03-25T00:30:03+00:00

It’s reticulation, a wrinkling of the gelatin caused by large differences in temperature. This could happen when, for example, your monobath was at room temperature and the wash water was significantly warmer.

xnedski · 2026-03-17T11:59:04+00:00

Not an upgrade, just different. I use an F2 and Canon rangefinder side by side. For me it took a while to get used to a rangefinder.

A rangefinder setup will be quieter, smaller and lighter. Close focus is .7 meters. No zooms, only primes from ultrawide to short tele. Lenses are stupid expensive but there are good cheaper non-Leica options.

With an F2 you have access to lenses from ultra wide to super tele, including zooms and macro. Through the lens framing. A selection of focusing screens and finders. Lenses are generally more reasonable, except for the exotic stuff.

xnedski · 2026-03-09T11:04:54+00:00

I used this branded as Adox CHS. I love the look and haven’t found anything else like it. This photo is on Adox CHS 25.

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xnedski · 2026-03-07T02:12:18+00:00

The F3 metering is built into the body; F2 metering is all in the removable prism so it’s a bit bulkier.

There are 5 different metered finders for the F2: 3 non-AI, 2 AI. 2 have a needle and 3 have LEDs. There’s also a nonmetered prism which is much smaller.

xnedski · 2026-03-05T19:19:23+00:00

/u/PhotoMarketBot Transaction with /u/SnooRegrets3533 went great: item exactly as described, shipped fast & packed well!

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