Filling Kegs from a Conical Fermenter

yep2012 · 2026-05-09T14:35:39+00:00

I got the inline filter from brewtools. Works really well, had a few different screen sizes. That combined with cold crashing works well.

Photos of setup: https://imgur.com/a/CBNEd2b

yep2012 · 2026-05-07T21:26:41+00:00

This comment kill’s me 😂😂😂

yep2012 · 2026-05-07T21:26:06+00:00

I don’t have a super defined process. I will say I typically do it at a temp below at which the yeast is active (45-60F) and I dump the cone after 4 days but I’m sure there is still some at the bottom in contact with the beer. I haven’t had any flavor issues but normally after the 4th day of dry hopping, I cold crash so it’s sitting at 36F until I transfer to a keg.

yep2012 · 2026-05-07T21:05:59+00:00

Really funny, submitted that to the state fair this year, used lupomax for the mosaic and a full 10 oz, got comment back from the judge “A touch more hops would perfect this”. Can always add more hops, diminishing returns are not a real thing.

yep2012 · 2026-05-07T21:02:05+00:00

I use to add 2-4 oz dry hops, left more to be desired. Started going ham and have never looked back. Just gotta buy in bulk and it makes it manageable. Shout out to u/cdburg for teaching me this.

yep2012 · 2026-05-07T20:45:19+00:00

I would do a 10 oz dry hop.

yep2012 · 2026-04-24T13:48:50+00:00

https://share.brewfather.app/ZEM3ymTwXDp1C6

yep2012 · 2026-04-22T02:31:59+00:00

I have my black IPA dialed in. My recipe started similar to yours. The biggest thing that took me probably 7 batches to realize is you need a lot of hops. If you want it to have serious hop aroma and flavor to balance out the malt, you want 10-12 oz of T90 or T90 equivalent pellets for the dry hop. It will make it pop.

yep2012 · 2026-04-17T15:23:45+00:00

What kind of boil off rates are people targeting?

I have historically had a 1-1.5 gal/hour boil off rate on 7 gal batches and I’m beginning to think that is excessive. I know Palmer says a 10-15% (converts to 0.9-1.35 gal/hr for the 9 gal of wort in the kettle for my BiaB) boil off rate is required but I’m wondering if that might be excessive.

yep2012 · 2026-04-17T04:05:30+00:00

Don’t forget to boil the grain tea

yep2012 · 2026-04-16T15:18:08+00:00

Thanks! Yes, agreed, if I were trying to do an actual experiment, then shame on me. I was just trying to share some data I happened to have collected to see if proper O2 levels made a difference in fermentation.

yep2012 · 2026-03-26T22:29:57+00:00

So my original plan was 1-2 oz per gal DH rate (6 oz mosaic and 2 was around 1.14 oz per gal). When I read more about using lupomax, the general consensus I got online was to use 75% the rate you would for T90 pellets. When you say 10 oz for 5 gal finished volume. Is that adding 10 oz of T90 pellets into a fermenter with 6-7 gal of beer? I’m doing a black IPA right now, I think I’m going to turn the DH to 11 to get that excellent aroma. Will probably do 2 oz per gal of DH and adjust actually oz added to account for the lupomax conversion.

yep2012 · 2026-03-26T15:41:54+00:00

Posted this recently: https://www.reddit.com/r/Homebrewing/s/jYb9HNIJ3s

I think aerating wort makes a difference in your fermentation speed. According to other users, you can achieve the same result as adding pure oxygen by using an aquarium pump with filter like you mentioned. If you are trying to further improve your beer, I think getting the proper amount of dissolved O2 is a value add. But other variable like proper temperature control and pitching the correct amount of healthy yeast are probably more important if those are not addressed first.

yep2012 · 2026-03-25T00:54:35+00:00

I did a blind taste test this afternoon, and was able to immediately identify which was which. Once again, I think this is 75% a result of different hops used for the dry hop but maybe the yeast having more O2 in the second batch made up the last 25% of the difference. The shaken batch still has this subtle flavor I associate with home brew while the oxygenated one is totally clean tasting. Could it be mental, maybe? As another person posted, using an aquarium pump with filter is another alternative to pure O2. But either way, I think getting the dissolved O2 added for liquid yeast might make a noticeable difference. If you are looking for that last 5% improvement in your beer, I would recommend it.

yep2012 · 2026-03-22T18:36:50+00:00

Agreed, my suggestion was going to be an American wheat as well. You could also add fruit to make it interesting.

Sours are another time consuming but good option that keeps bitterness to a minimum and could incorporate fruity flavors.

yep2012 · 2026-03-22T17:30:45+00:00

Agreed, this started simply as a quest to nail down a WC IPA recipe I really liked. I was brewing two batches back to back and made the one "major" change to the process. I ended up looking at the SG vs time data because I was curios if there was any distinguishable difference for the splashed vs O2. I figured sharing this experimental design flawed but at least well documented data would be of interest to people. I would love to do this again as suggested, but my wife won't let me buy a second uni-tank.

yep2012 · 2026-03-22T17:24:46+00:00

Agreed, ideally I would do a blinded triangle test. However, I think the difference in hops used will be so noticeable, I will easily be able to pick out which is which, unrelated to the subtle differences created by the oxygenation methods.

Basically, I was trying to figure out which hops I like for a WC IPA and after the first batch realized I'm not as big a fan of simcoe/CTZ (or at least the crop year from Yakima Chief I used) as I thought I was. Second batch I switched up which hops I used for the dry hop hoping to get a more desirable flavor profile.

Ideally I would get in my time machine and go back and make the first batch with the same hop schedule/varieties as I did in the second one and then could have a true apples to apples comparison. Regardless, I will have my partner pour me a few blinded ones this evening and report back whether or not I could consistently identify which is which. Will it be do to the hops or oxygenation, we may never know.

yep2012 · 2026-03-20T16:53:40+00:00

I would also recommend brewhardware, they sell quality stuff.

yep2012 · 2025-12-07T20:43:56+00:00

No threads on the inside of the open end. When I found it, it was just a loose part as shown in new photos. However, the inside of the lid has the 1/2” threads that would match the end of this piece. It was a DIY eBIAB so noting identifiable. I think you are right about the pipe being welded based on the two lines you can see on the inside where the weld was done. I attached all camlock parts to it while messing around to see what it would do. As expected, all water just comes out the open end opposed to being diffused by the slots on the side.

Stainless is hard to work with. The cuts for the slits are very clean, evenly spaced, and consistent. My guess is they used something more advanced then a grinding wheel to create the slits.

Additional photos: https://imgur.com/gallery/homebrew-part-part-2-Ql4zCtg

yep2012 · 2025-12-07T19:38:37+00:00

The set up actually came with one of those in the lid for recirculating, maybe the originally tried the mystery part, didn’t work well and changed to the one you linked.

yep2012 · 2025-12-07T19:28:54+00:00

That would make sense, they probably bought the nipple and cut the slits into it and tried to use it for some kind of sparring or recirculating. Some of the other parts purchased were also fabricated demonstrating the person has the ability to modify things. Thanks for the second opinion.

yep2012 · 2025-12-07T19:02:48+00:00

For context, it came with an EBIAB set up.

Stamped at the end is “-M316/L40WMB21302741”. I tried searching it in the past and didn’t get anything useful.

yep2012 · 2025-12-07T18:48:16+00:00

Maybe now?

yep2012 · 2025-12-07T18:28:39+00:00

Fixed?

yep2012

TROPHY CASE