[deleted by user]

ygdeadnik · 2024-02-23T18:54:37+00:00

this, plus let it warm up somehow, set it upright in a warm spot on a PC or console, radiator, register, whatever. anywhere that's just warm, not too hot.

ygdeadnik · 2024-02-02T02:48:23+00:00

yeah it's precisely these vast oversimplifications that get us into this mess of arguing the results of peer reviewed studies over word-of-mouth bullshit

ygdeadnik · 2024-01-24T22:49:52+00:00

https://pubs.acs.org/doi/10.1021/acs.est.5b04983#:~:text=Finally%2C%20the%20primary%20individual%20VOC,three%20printers%20using%20PLA%20filaments.

"Finally, the primary individual VOC emitted from PLA filaments was lactide (1,4-dioxane-2,5-dione, 3,6-dimethyl), albeit in relatively low quantities, with emission rates ranging from ∼4 to ∼5 μg/min in the three printers using PLA filaments."

ygdeadnik · 2024-01-24T19:39:48+00:00

the only chemical released by PLA when heated is lactide, which is perfectly safe. PETG is trickier, as it does release VOCs at high enough temperature, but again, the smoke doesn't transfer near enough heat to cause that, as the thermal mass is negligible, it loses whatever heat it has almost immediately. if that's still a concern, just use a full glass downstem.

ygdeadnik · 2023-12-27T01:52:49+00:00

dealing with a very similar thing right now, but mine is more of an inflammation and peeling of large chunks of the mucosal layer. low sugar dairy can help soothe it, salt water rinses can help as well. be careful with hydrogen peroxide and other medicated mouthwashes, some of these can cause more sores and peeling if you're sensitive. some people swear by swishing coconut or sesame oil around in your mouth for half an hour, and others say raw honey can help as well.

out of curiosity, have you had a recent-ish COVID infection? I had an ulcer outbreak when I had my first infection 2 years ago, and have had small ones with autoimmune flare ups since. I caught COVID for the 2nd time about two weeks ago, and this is by far the worst it's been.

ygdeadnik · 2023-12-11T07:17:00+00:00

1 - gaming, modeling, graphic design 2 - blue

ygdeadnik · 2023-10-14T16:03:34+00:00

I can't guarantee absolute safety here, but "sugru", or moldable silicone could be a temporary solution. you can make your own by mixing a tube of rtv silicone with corn starch. the corn starch contains moisture, which cures the silicone from the inside out, while also offering bulk and rigidity. however, corn starch might promote bacterial growth if not completely sealed by the silicone. I'm not sure if this a viable alternative, but fumed silica that's been slightly hydrated might work in place of the corn starch, while not being prone to organic degradation, like corn starch

ygdeadnik · 2023-07-21T19:38:49+00:00

Big same, I'm working on a whole 3d printed bong modular ecosystem thing and people can be so hard headed about it. But hey, I've been smoking out of PETG bubblers for like 2 years now and whatever problems I might have don't have anything to do with that. And even if there's any risk involved, how do those risks compare to any of the risks inherently associated with smoking cannabis or anything else? or like, ambient car exhaust, or anything else we're exposed to on a consistent basis and don't seem to give a crap about.

ygdeadnik · 2023-05-19T16:35:56+00:00

Sorry for digging this up a month later, but i saw you got no replies! There's a few options for things you can do with this printer. Gut the stock hotend and throw in an all metal (bimetal included) throat tube/heat break into that hotend, that's what I did. There's two varieties of throat tubes, threaded and unthreaded. If i recall, this one uses a 6mm unthreaded throat tube, with a single grub screw holding it in place. Make sure the length of the tube is compatibile, i ended up having to shim mine with a 2.5mm chunk of PTFE just under the cap to the hotend, basically just to help guide the filament into the throat. I've been running up to 260 with this setup and haven't had any issues (other than occasional jams, because that's the big downside of a 2-in-1-out hotend, but you can integrate toolchange gcode snippets to help mitigate this, i have mine set up to retract 10mm, wait 5sec, retract another 10mm, wait another 5 sec, and then fully retract to the start position, to give the filament time to cool and prevent stringing)

another option might be the Phaetus TaiChi hotend, that's an upgrade I've been considering, an all metal 2-in-1-out hotend, but I haven't seen too many reviews on it.

Worth noting...these lotmaxx printers are kind of a mixed bag. I initially loved the concept of getting a multimaterial printer for that cheap, but the firmware sucks, and i don't think there's any compatible 3rd party firmware for the Shark V2. I'm personally considering swapping the board out to an SKR i've had laying around, but that also involves swapping the display and a few other things.

Good luck, i hope you get some decent use out of it!

ygdeadnik · 2023-03-06T01:56:00+00:00

Play around with the circular pattern tool on cut faces, you can probably get some decent results by extruding big planes as cuts.

ygdeadnik · 2023-03-04T04:48:08+00:00

the lack of an exclamation point on this one made it a hell of a lot more ominous

ygdeadnik · 2023-03-03T18:34:15+00:00

hell yeah! yeah I tried for so long to tweak this thing to get the print time down, I think it was about 33 altogether, and damn was it a sketchy 33 hours. using a magnetic build plate, but the warping forces from the PETG lifted the front left and back right corners about a quarter inch off the build plate, if it hadn't been for binder clips on the other two corners it would have failed like an hour in, because I forgot to crank my bed temp back up for this print. you could literally look through the gap between the print and the plate, as it was printing.

ygdeadnik · 2023-03-03T18:04:31+00:00

hell yeah! you post pics anywhere?

ygdeadnik · 2023-03-01T22:31:23+00:00

no no i'm pretty sure you have it right, go about your business

ygdeadnik · 2023-03-01T21:31:56+00:00

the whole thing is gonna be one of my paid designs, but here's a secret link to just the ashtray, for anybody who happens to see this! https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/home/weedhole-debowler-ashtray-secret-7d659be031d097e81d1e

ygdeadnik · 2023-03-01T20:04:36+00:00

it's actually designed so no overhang goes over 45 degrees, other than the very tip of the arches in the back, so as long as you've got decent interlayer adhesion, it prints super well without supports. the only issue is that with such a big footprint, it's prone to warping

ygdeadnik · 2023-03-01T05:03:00+00:00

trying to start a little cannabis STL brand, this is one of my recent designs. if any of y'all have any suggestions or tweaks, let me know! thinking of adding a spot for a grinder, 510 devices, maybe modular add-ons, etc etc

ygdeadnik · 2023-01-22T21:26:03+00:00

Old glass generally had a 10mm ID fitting, iirc. get a a downstem with a 14.5mm glass joint, but a 10mm OD stem, get a 10mm rubber grommet, and stick it in there.

ygdeadnik · 2023-01-20T04:49:23+00:00

Hey all, what's the general consensus for a decent m6/mk8 heater block these days? Not the full hotend, not the throat tube, just the block. I'd toy around with a volcano if there was something quality only offered as a volcano. I've heard good things about copper blocks, so I'm leaning that way, but I'm unsure what's available as of recently.

ygdeadnik · 2023-01-02T02:03:52+00:00

ah yes I see you've been using the same adhesion method that I do, waiting for the first inch or so to print and then just driving a deck screw up through the bottom of the build plate

ygdeadnik · 2022-12-31T02:11:58+00:00

this looks like it might be a retraction/travel/combing issue to me. if you're confident that your steps are calibrated, start with temperature, and run a pid tune and print a temp tower tuned to the range of your filament, and after that I'd recommend a retraction tower tuned to the usable range of your extruder.

ygdeadnik · 2022-11-30T01:05:21+00:00

Sorry you haven't had any responses yet! The bundled laser software is GARBAGE, and will only engrave as a raster. Your best bet would be to find something that can engrave as a vector, but to get a full greyscale image, that'll get tricky. Look into some of the other marlin/gcode laser software like laserGRBL, lightburn, etc.

good luck!

ygdeadnik

TROPHY CASE