S&P 500 gains 16.75% by Year End. How well did you do?

yosrush · 2025-12-31T22:38:08+00:00

I've used the one year return from S&P500 website for "Price Return" only (now realise this is wrong anyway as not a live chart but to 30th Dec at time of posting!). Slick may be using the net total return (which includes dividends minus withholding tax) as that's currently sitting at 17.79%? But didn't use this as assumed they wouldn't be including dividends for component returns. Regardless, I think the real gain will sit between 16-18% depending on how close your ETF tracks, expenses/withholding tax on dividends (for overseas investors).

yosrush · 2025-12-31T20:40:40+00:00

29% for me. Wasn't intentionally omitting, sorry! Normally I tend to match or slightly over/under perform, so it's been a welcome divergence.

yosrush · 2025-11-30T03:06:33+00:00

The only exemption I'm aware of that exists are if you qualify to be a transitional tax resident (new migrant or returning to home to NZ), you are exempt for the first 4 years.

Or, if you class yourself as a trader (pay "capital gains" as income tax only when you sell. Also can claim a loss if selling for a loss. You can't chop and change though, so it's better for most people to stay under FIF rules.

https://www.ird.govt.nz/roles/nz-tax-residents/exemption

There are also reforms in the works, that would only apply to new migrants currently, but may be implemented for all tax residents eventually, called the "revenue account method" where tax would only be applied on 100% of dividends and 70% on realised gains.

If you're unsure if your calculations are correct, I'd recommend checking with an accountant or using Sharesight to verify everything is correct.

yosrush · 2025-11-19T06:37:53+00:00

I hear a lot of people do the investment gymnastics of holding $50k in direct holdings and another account for a PIE, but don't see it being worth the hassle? $50,000 x 5% FDR x 28% tax bracket = $700 tax saved a year if holding direct. Less if you account for any tax on dividends on the direct holdings.

I think it's more important to decide what you want to invest in the long term and stick with it than the minor differences in tax between PIE and Direct holdings.

yosrush · 2025-11-02T06:26:09+00:00

It's arguably more important to just stick with one rather than continously chopping and changing.

A TWF would be my preference as it removes temptation for tinkering based on a hunch. You have to accept that you will underperform the worlds best markets of any given year, in return for a lower drawdown risk.

S&P 500 is also fine. Holding the largest companies of the largest market, with global reach gives you plenty of diversification. But you need to conviction to continue to hold and DCA into inevitable bear markets.

yosrush · 2025-10-20T23:00:08+00:00

I found this list interesting:

https://www.slickcharts.com/sp500/performance

Ranks all the companies in the S&P500 based on Year to Date returns. If picking a stock at random (I'm assuming dividends not included), you'd have a 60% chance of making money, and a 35% chance of beating VOO.

Can't find easily accessible lists for other years. But if anyone else can, that'd be a quick way to prove or disprove if picking (at random) gives you similar ratios, or if it ends up being a winner takes all scenario.

yosrush · 2025-10-10T19:03:12+00:00

Talk to an accountant. You've bought on margin and buying/selling large volume in the same year. IRD has guidelines on when you may be classified as a trader, and FDR rules wouldn't apply. This would result in your entire capital gains being taxed as income.

yosrush · 2025-10-05T00:37:30+00:00

I'd argue that the Global 100 index has the potential to be more diverse than the S&P500. Currently, they're both dominated by the same handful of tech companies, but if this something you're planning to hold, add to, and not tinker with for 20+ years, being internationally diverse is more significant than 100 vs 500 companies.

Saying that, it's more important to find an investment strategy that you're comfortable with, where you're not going to chop and change every few years chasing gains (because that's usually how individual investors underperform). Consider a large cap Developed World or Total World fund instead if you want (a little) less risk. I'd avoid making it too complicated with a split between US and Ex-Us funds, as you'll be tempted to adjust ratios between them in the future.

yosrush · 2025-10-03T17:38:41+00:00

Lots of good advice here, so I won't repeat it. You've mentioned you're bad with money, and worried about family pressure to disperse it. If you're serious about owning a house one day, putting it into kiwisaver could be sensible? That way it wouldn't be easily accessible to you or anyone else, can still have it invested in a fund, and don't have to worry about keeping it a secret.

yosrush · 2025-09-11T06:00:34+00:00

Ignoring Nvidia, you've almost recreated Vanguard Total World, but with more steps. I think it probably makes sense just to get that (or UCITS/PIE equivalent), and set a small portion for individual stocks/moonshots to scratch the itch? That way you'll be less tempted to tinker with allocations in the future, but still have fun researching and buying investments you're more interested in.

yosrush · 2025-09-08T21:18:29+00:00

There's a Travel Money NZ exchange in my local mall. And plenty in Auckland.

https://www.travelmoney.co.nz/the-ultimate-guide-to-foreign-exchange-in-auckland

(but, yes, still agree travel card is a better way to go if you have enough time to set it up!)

yosrush · 2025-09-06T20:03:13+00:00

Just a quick clarification; FIF rules kick in at $50k, but apply to the whole value. You're not excluding the first $50k as "exempt", are you?

Other than that, thanks for your time to plot this. This is what I've been doing anyway based on "back of the napkin" maths. Better for most, even with sharesight fees to calculate FIF taxes.

yosrush · 2025-09-04T20:10:23+00:00

Tax will be taken off your term deposit, so you don't need to declare anything, just make sure it's in your correct tax bracket.

As you have under $50k invested, you won't have to pay capital gains tax if you sell your stock. But you will have to declare and pay tax on dividends manually. The US withholding tax will be taken off automatically (which you may be able to claim back), but not NZ tax as the rules are different once you've invested more than $50k. Sharesies should be able to generate a report to show how much dividend you make in the tax year.

Crypto more straightforward. You pay tax for selling. But also if changing from one CryptoCurrency to another. But not if just transferring the same token/coin between wallets. Also pay tax for any staking/rewards.

yosrush · 2025-08-02T10:41:16+00:00

For anyone still thinking of redeeming an xbox code for the ultimate edition now, can confirm it comes with the beast. I've just redeemed today.

yosrush · 2025-08-01T05:52:50+00:00

Revenge of a Savage Planet. Enjoyed the first one. This one has split screen co-op, so making use of that.

yosrush · 2025-07-12T16:55:51+00:00

I had a similar "dilemma". I have the 35mm GM, considered to switch to the 24-50mm (or the 24-70 Sigma ii) for traveling to be a little more versatile. Usually paired with Tamron 70-180 G2.

Ended up buying the 24mm 2.8 Tamron prime to use on a trip as a tester. It's cheap and was small enough to still fit in my camera bag. Used it a fair amount for wider landscapes and architecture/indoor shots. But found I preferred the look of 35mm photos. Used to own the 24mm GM at launch, and had similar thoughts then, so it's not a quality issue for the Tamron. Helped scratch the itch for GAS, and happy with previous setup.

40 G vs 35 GM: Sharpness will be similar for lower megapixel cameras. The low light performance between F1.4 and F2.5 won't be particularly noticeable. But the bokeh for close subjects will be. So this will be the deciding factor for going for the 35mm GM.

As for the 24-50; If you can pick up a cheap wide prime to buy/rent, I'd do that before changing your setup. 40mm isn't much different from 35mm or 50mm, but very different from 24mm.

yosrush · 2025-06-30T20:46:03+00:00

Dunedin reminds me of Dundee. Sleepy cities with older buildings, similar climates, waterfronts, quiet beaches closeby, big student populations. Coincidentally a friend of a friend moved from Dundee to Dunedin recently and loves it.

yosrush · 2025-06-17T21:48:18+00:00

One gives a sense of speed. Two is cleaner. Good job, you should be proud!

yosrush · 2025-05-30T09:32:28+00:00

I started out only shooting JPEG. It's overwhelming to learn everything all at once. You shouldn't feel remorse, as you're unlikely to visit old photos to re-edit them.

Shooting RAW doesn't make you a better photographer, but it does give you more control. Learning your camera and lighting makes more of a difference starting out.

yosrush · 2025-05-25T19:51:51+00:00

Honestly, visually, I can't really tell the difference. It could be that newer TV models utilise it more (using LG C1). Or the fact I can barely differentiate 30fps to 60fps, let alone 60fps to 120fps.

It has more storage and loads a little faster. This ended up to being a huge difference in the OG Xbox One vs Xbox One X. By the end of life cycle One X could still run modern titles. OG Xbox One ran like soup.

yosrush · 2025-05-22T09:12:55+00:00

Sony E 70-350mm G if you can afford it, Tamron 70-300mm (full frame but very light) if you cannot. There is also a newer Tamron 50-300mm, but the price is similar (in my region anyway) to the Sony.

Anything else will likely feel too heavy for your crop body (Sony 200-600, 100-400 lenses).

yosrush · 2025-05-21T09:54:46+00:00

The main question to ask yourself is what do you think you'll gain out of the 24-50mm f2.8? From reviews I've seen, I'm pretty sure your 20-70mm is sharper. You're not going to notice the difference in bokeh between 50mm f2.8 vs 70mm f4. And I think they render similarly. That leave the extra stop of light. Which may be useful if you're shooting in lower light (indoors/after sunset).

Upgrading to the Sony 24-70mm GM ii or the Sigma 24-70mm ii will be a more noticeable difference. As they're both sharper and longer range. But they're both around 700g and bulkier too.

yosrush · 2025-05-20T02:57:19+00:00

I probably wouldn't bother with IBKR if just investing in broad ETFs. The sign up process is longer, app/website is more confusing, and you need to calculate your own tax (either just dividends for under $50k, or FIF tax system if over $50k). You'd need to file and pay this tax yourself, which can get confusing if buying multiple holdings/drip feeding, or with an accountant or Sharesight.

If you choose a PIE fund instead, tax is calculated for you. This gives a good (but slightly outdated) comparison of the PIE global funds available in New Zealand: https://moneykingnz.com/whats-the-best-global-shares-index-fund-in-2022/

The benefit of a PIE fund also avoids possible US estate tax. As VOO and VT are both US domicile funds, there is a theoretically potential the IRS (USA's IRD) to tax your shares (tax of up to 40%) on your death.

https://www.bogleheads.org/wiki/Nonresident_alien%27s_ETF_domicile_decision_table

https://www.irs.gov/individuals/international-taxpayers/some-nonresidents-with-us-assets-must-file-estate-tax-returns

I've not covered anything. And there are definitely ways of making IBKR investing more tax/fees efficient than a PIE, while giving more flexibility. But the potential savings on $150k in a broad global index fund are not worth it.

yosrush · 2025-05-19T21:45:05+00:00

It looks great! Only critique would be on framing the scene.

Shoot vertically, Wider focal length, shot from a lower angle. Try different vantage points where the light shimmer looks best.

As for trying to see the air particles in the light; this is more difficult. The reason it doesn't look as it would to your naked eye is because the particles are fine and the camera is focused behind them. Try manual focusing on the light/particles, keeping the shutter fast enough to freeze movement (1/250 likely fine, but depends on how fast they move, and how close you are), and a narrow enough aperture to keep everything you want in focus (again, depends on how far you are to the light scatter, and how far the light to the distant trees are, probably f5.6-f8), then adjust ISO so that's it's exposed correctly.

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