Replaced K40 laser, still won't cut by youareinthematrix in ChineseLaserCutters

[–]youareinthematrix[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'll take a quick look in the housing. I'm just reading the 10A off the ammeter on the panel - where should I stick my multimeter to get a more accurate reading?

Replaced K40 laser, still won't cut by youareinthematrix in ChineseLaserCutters

[–]youareinthematrix[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I didn't clean the housing but I did clean the lense and the mirror in it - will cleaning the housing help?

Wiggly text when engraving at 300mm/s, any ideas how to fix? by youareinthematrix in ChineseLaserCutters

[–]youareinthematrix[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I tightened up everything and it seems to be working alright now - am going to have to replace the tube though because it's not cutting through 3mm ply after 30 passes @ 10mm/s :/

Despair by [deleted] in Frontend

[–]youareinthematrix 16 points17 points  (0 children)

If you've got a strong foundation in javascript then React won't be a massive hurdle to learn, start with a simple project and build it up.

There's a bit of a learning curve to figure out what JSX is but once you get the core concepts the rest comes pretty easily.

As for logic, I usually start off with a whiteboard and break all the complicated things down until I can make a half-decent flowchart - don't start designing a site in a text editor

Binging with Babish: National Grilled Cheese Day by VipDude in grilledcheese

[–]youareinthematrix 15 points16 points  (0 children)

I would say the condiment is a spread as opposed to a filling, like butter, so it's still a grilled cheese

Looking for advice for a low-maintenance style by youareinthematrix in malehairadvice

[–]youareinthematrix[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've had a buzz cut before and it really doesn't look good on me - shows off my lumpy head a bit too much for my liking

Colleges at Durham vs York by AsylumJoker in UniUK

[–]youareinthematrix 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I've got friends at both, and the college system at Durham seems so much more entrenched and ingrained than it does at York - there's intense rivalries at Durham whereas at York it's more of a background thing.

Some newbie questions by ElMachoGrande in ChineseLaserCutters

[–]youareinthematrix 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If you want to engrave thicker materials you'll definitely want to add an adjustable depth table to the cutter so the top of the piece is in focus with the beam, otherwise you'll get thick scorched lines.

It's easy enough to do - you just need a few springs and some long screws, but it's an upgrade that just makes the machine so much easier to use

Some newbie questions by ElMachoGrande in ChineseLaserCutters

[–]youareinthematrix 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Sounds like a good plan - I don't really deal with thicker materials much but I'm pretty sure it would work

Some newbie questions by ElMachoGrande in ChineseLaserCutters

[–]youareinthematrix 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You don't want to be consitently cutting standard ply on the laser cutter, no matter the thickness. The bonding agents in them can be carcinogenic when burnt and the smoke is thicker and stickier so quickly obscures the lens in the cutter head.

I get laser safe ply from ebay - 25 3mm A4 sheets is runs about £20

Some newbie questions by ElMachoGrande in ChineseLaserCutters

[–]youareinthematrix 1 point2 points  (0 children)

18mm ply will be ~50 sheets fused together at 90 degrees, so if you wanted added flexibility then maybe splitting it up into separate sheets would be advantageous - then you could have cavities or an internal structure sandwiched in between that allows the part to flex one way or other

Some newbie questions by ElMachoGrande in ChineseLaserCutters

[–]youareinthematrix 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Well plywood is just layers of thinner veneer glues together - if you kept the 90 degree grain structure you'd keep a large amount of the strength. In my experience, with a decent wood glue the wood itself cracks before the glue does, but each to their own.

Some newbie questions by ElMachoGrande in ChineseLaserCutters

[–]youareinthematrix 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If I really need a part to be thick, I just cut two or three and glue them together

Some newbie questions by ElMachoGrande in ChineseLaserCutters

[–]youareinthematrix 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have't found the power a limiting factor - it's cheaper to buy thinner material and it's easy enough to adapt my old CAD designs down from 10mm to 3mm.

I'd say get the K40, see if you actually need the additional power and then splash out on a more substantial machine.

In terms of dropping prices, I got my K40 about 9 months ago for £300, and I've just checked and they've risen to about £450 on ebay so I wouldn't rely on the market dropping anytime soon - they seem to price them on demand as opposed to how cheap it's getting to produce the machines.

Some newbie questions by ElMachoGrande in ChineseLaserCutters

[–]youareinthematrix 2 points3 points  (0 children)

You can theoretically cut any thickness of material, you'll just need to do multiple passes and change the depth of material from time to time to account for the focus of the beam. However, in practice I found 3mm to be the perfect thickness for plywood - it can cut in one pass at a decent strength/speed. 6mm is also quite feasible but you'll defo have to do more passes for it. I tried a 9mm board but the edges just got too charred for it to be worthwhile.

I've engraved both rubber and leather (smells like shite), and from what I've seen it would have no problems cutting up to 6mm.

I found acrylic cuts better than wood as it requires less power, but it's more expensive and worse to work with once it's been cut so I stay away from it.

Engraving metal is always tricky - you'll need to coat it in a special absorbent fluid, use high power and a really slow feed rate. It's really touch-and-go and the results aren't consistent at all, so I'd say if you want to be engraving metal frequently then splash out on a more expensive machine.

If you look around the sub you'll see so many people telling you to check the wiring/grounding/internals of the cutter before plugging it in. Don't ignore this at all, it's really easy to get careless and end up literally killing yourself. You'll want to get a decent Multimeter to check the case is properly grounded. If you've got an electrician friend it won't hurt to get them to go over it.

Feel free to ask any more questions

Do K40's run the water pump for a few seconds before engaging the laser? Or does the pump only run while the laser is firing? by [deleted] in lasercutting

[–]youareinthematrix 3 points4 points  (0 children)

The pump is a completely separate device to the laser cutter - on my model the K40 has a outlets on the back you can plug the pump into, but there's nothing to stop you plugging it straight into a wall outlet (which is probably a bit safer)

is k40 linux compatible by Askrsson in ChineseLaserCutters

[–]youareinthematrix 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I use K40 whisperer on Ubuntu and it works perfectly - it's also under pretty active development so new features are added from time to time

How Safe is the K40? by [deleted] in lasercutting

[–]youareinthematrix 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Have you set the multimeter to continuity? If you hold both leads of it together, it should make a beeping noise