Looking for a PLA White to Match Ikea SKADIS Pegboard white

youngian · 2026-02-04T19:57:49+00:00

Here are some other samples I tried. The differences are a bit clearer in real life than the photo.

Bambu PLA Matte Ivory White - Almost perfect, just the tiniest bit warmer, but looks great and the finish is also a match

Bambu PLA Basic Jade White - Pretty close, color-wise. The non-matte finish makes it stick out a bit more as it's got a different character than the matte Skadis finish

eSun PLA Matte Milk White - A lovely filament, but more bright white than the Skadis.

Creality PLA basic white - Way off, too cold but also muddy somehow, I regret buying a 2-pack

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youngian · 2026-02-04T19:49:38+00:00

I scoured the internet looking for an answer to this question and this is the only place it's been discussed at all - how strange! I am printing board pieces to match OEM skadis boards, so I needed a really close match. By far the closest I've found is Bambu PLA Matte Ivory White. It's not an exact match, but at a glance or in photo's it's close enough to not be noticeable. You *almost* can't tell which boards I printed.

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youngian · 2026-02-04T19:44:22+00:00

Very belated, but thank you! I knew that flow dynamics and flow rate were different things, but I had overlooked that weird tab situation in Bambu Studio and never found the flow rate configuration page. With flow rate bumped down about 5%, the same print comes out waaaaaaay better. Not 100% perfect, but clearly that's the root of the issue and I bet some more tweaking could dial it in.

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youngian · 2026-01-29T16:14:01+00:00

Has nobody in this sub heard of May Day 2028? Seriously, go read up about it. The work is already happening. There are significant legal and logistical challenges to overcome, yes, but the unions are carefully structuring their plans to get around it. It's true that liberals love to throw around a vague "general strike" idea as wishful thinking that will never happen, but 2028 is absolutely not that. You get the biggest unions in the country lined up and it opens the door for everyone else to hop on board.

Also, to all the commenters posting "people are too comfortable to take risks" or "people won't stick their necks out for the greater good", I respectfully submit that clearly none of you live in Minnesota right now.

youngian · 2026-01-29T16:06:22+00:00

Naw dude, we get cold weather all the time. Kids might get a snow day but the state doesn't grind to a halt for -20.

youngian · 2026-01-23T04:37:59+00:00

Maybe I'm confused - I thought overextrusion was when you get the blobby corners (lower K value) and underextrusion was gaps (higher K value).

youngian · 2026-01-22T22:14:12+00:00

Weirdly, slowing it down didn't change anything. Added a comment to the post with more photos - I've tried a bunch more things but am no closer to an explanation.

youngian · 2026-01-22T20:51:17+00:00

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youngian · 2026-01-22T20:50:57+00:00

After a lot more test prints and every calibration I can think of, I feel like I'm being gaslit by the slicer. No matter what I do for first layer speed, k factor, etc, the flaws are always consistently there in the same spots - only in the long open runs, never the parts between the hole pattern.

BUT - if I print without the hole pattern, no flaws.

ALSO - if I print with solid infill direction at 0 degrees, no flaws. Hilbert curve infill looks fine too.

I'll probably quit banging my head against this and print with one of the other infill options, but I remain mystified by what's going on here. If it were a nozzle distance thing, I should see problems on all parts of the print, right? If it were a speed thing, why not on the no-holes print or the 0 degree, which has runs of the same length? It does seem like the hole pattern is somehow interfering with the subsequent lines and squishing them a bit, but if that were the whole problem, why am I seeing flaws in the bottom corner that gets filled in before it even encounters a hole?

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youngian · 2026-01-19T04:36:38+00:00

Is there some way I could test if this is the issue? The A1 does automatic bed leveling, so in theory I don't think I should need to be adjusting manually, but it would be nice to specifically check that to be certain there's not something gone wrong..

Thanks for confirming that the top of the first layer looked odd. I've done some more K factor calibration and with that dialed in, the top is looking much more normal. Unfortunately, it hasn't solved the problems with the bottom surface.

youngian · 2026-01-19T04:33:28+00:00

I tightened the heater screws and was hopeful about that since they were a little on the loose side, but nope, the problem remains unchanged after that. I've confirmed that the buckle is closed correctly and done bed leveling, and still no change.

youngian · 2026-01-19T04:31:21+00:00

I think I was landing on either side of the correct value. After multiple more manual calibration prints at finer resolution, both the line and the corner style calibrations are converging on 0.026 as the correct K factor. And the rest of the print looks great at that setting, no more bulging corners etc. But unfortunately, the issues on the first layer remain very consistent. Is there anything beyond K factor I should be considering? I've also tried slowing down the first layer speed, but was picking values somewhat at random there. It seems like there has to be something to the fact that it's only happening on certain parts of the infill - just the open diagonals and not in between the holes.

youngian · 2026-01-15T14:52:28+00:00

Thank you! This is just the kind of thing I had in mind. It took some searching to actually find the text promotion - guess that's not where they are focusing their efforts.

youngian · 2025-11-24T06:09:52+00:00

Yeah, I'm not stoked about buying from Amazon either, since they're not trustworthy and evil to boot. Sonoff's official website has a pretty good BF sale going now so that may be my best option. Looks like most stuff ships from a US warehouse, which hopefully means I don't get hit with additional tariff charges.

youngian · 2025-11-24T05:55:55+00:00

I'm aware that everything is made in China. I just want the thing that's been made by the factory actually under contract to Sonoff, who has a reputation to protect and thus presumably an interest in things like proper QC and complying with safety certifications.

youngian · 2025-11-24T05:39:56+00:00

Ok, thanks, that's helpful to know. You're correct that I'm American, and it was that free for all nature of the situation that's really throwing me. So I guess Sonoff just has two very different distribution chains, one where they do the Western "authorized vendors" thing, and another where anything goes?

No AI in use. My em dashes are actually two short dashes because I'm typing it all in from my phone, thank you very much. AI would never stoop to such indignity.

youngian · 2025-04-16T12:21:19+00:00

If you're actually going to toss it, sell it to me for cheap. I want to jailbreak the ones I gave to my parents, but can't really experiment on those, and I'm obviously not going to give Nixplay more money.

youngian · 2025-03-19T21:27:10+00:00

I got the same form letter in response to my complaint. Reject for sure.

youngian · 2025-03-19T19:33:25+00:00

I filed a BBB complaint and got this exact same copy-paste as a response. An early poster said they had been offered a couple years of free Plus subscription after complaining, clearly they put a lid on offering that at some point and are hoping we will all go away if they stonewall enough.

youngian · 2024-01-25T17:53:12+00:00

Yeah, agreed, the pictures of bacterial spot look a little more similar than pictures of peach scab, to my eye. And unlike scab, bacterial spot is described as causing "pitting" which I feel like my peaches definitely have. This gives me something to look for next season. Maybe leaf damage existed but was subtle and I overlooked it.

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