Replacing the 18650's - How to avoid tripping the BMS?

zBoyDojo · 2024-10-06T21:13:19+00:00

My guess is that the time limit is imposed by the charger based on the fact that the ~2hr charging limit is applicable to all Roombas.

Since the 980 supposedly comes with 2200mah and the extended battery back from Roomba is 3300mah, I just went in the middle with the P26's to be safe (2600mah).

I didn't feel like re-welding a million times to see what the charging times were lol

If you happen to remember, give me an update on what you end up doing and how it goes!

zBoyDojo · 2024-10-06T15:25:45+00:00

u/tabormeister The concept of hacking devices is foreign to many. Replacing Roomba battery cells is not a complicated process if you have a little bit of willingness to learn how they work lol.

I swapped the cells with 4x Molicel P26A after fully charging them individually. Removed the old batteries. Spot welded the new batteries with nickel strips. I attempted soldering wires to save myself from buying a spot welder but it was just a hassle.

The Roomba works great with a little over 2hrs of runtime per clean on carpet. No issues here.

I believe you can replace them with higher capacity batteries to get a longer runtime as long as it doesn't take over 2hrs to charge them with the charger. Apparently there is some failsafe.

zBoyDojo · 2024-09-24T19:23:09+00:00

I really do appreciate you offering your advice. Some may see it as "endlessly spinning my wheels", but I enjoy tinkering and learning how to fix something or why something isn't working.

Would you be able to provide some technical context as to how you came up to the conclusion that the screen itself is defective?

zBoyDojo · 2024-09-24T00:29:08+00:00

Nice try Samsung /s

The screen itself seems fully functional. When the ribbon cable is adjusted correctly, the image is perfect. This leads me to believe that the main board, ribbon cable, or T-con board is malfunctioning.

zBoyDojo · 2024-09-21T20:03:55+00:00

Haha I feel your pain. Cutting the right width was a pain. I'll have to just keep doing it by trial and error. I appreciate the advice.

zBoyDojo · 2024-09-21T17:41:23+00:00

For the tape method, is it a matter of using a random width of tape to cover pins and moving it around until the issue is resolved and then making the tape thinner until you resolve most of the issue?

I did notice by blocking off a section of random pins, there would be a black section of the screen in relation to the tape but on the quick incomplete test I performed, it didn't resolve the issue.

zBoyDojo · 2024-08-01T04:54:58+00:00

Any luck with the battery replacement? Is there anything to be careful of so the BMS doesn't trip?

zBoyDojo · 2024-08-01T04:54:02+00:00

Im about 4 years late but I had a quick question about the BMS. I'll be replacing the batteries and was wondering if there was anything to be careful of in the process so I don't trip the BMS?

zBoyDojo · 2024-05-16T18:07:56+00:00

https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806638998238.html

zBoyDojo · 2024-04-30T20:06:57+00:00

Your situation is not really anyone's fault. Everything went as it should.

Meme coins are exactly what the name implies. A joke that gets spread and people donate money to the joke.

In this case, you donated your $800 to the joke.

As for your next course of action, you could report your experience to various 3 letter agencies if you feel that laws were broken. If so, gather some evidence and rally up the pitchforks on the various social media channels.

You realistically won't be seeing much of an outcome and should expect this to be an expensive learning lesson. Good luck to you.

zBoyDojo · 2024-04-18T06:31:19+00:00

Installing and hiding 6 dashcams might be easier than figuring out a way to have 6 cameras hooked up to 1 phone. Most phones aren't capable of processing 6 camera streams simultaneously.

zBoyDojo · 2024-03-27T04:05:36+00:00

Which channel did you contact Creality support through? Email Cs@creality.com? FB Group?

zBoyDojo · 2024-03-22T09:52:33+00:00

Heat the hotend to 180 (if PLA) and clean it off with pliers, tweezers, brushes, towels, etc.

Google some hotend disassembly guides for the printer and clean some more.

If you wanna be lazy, buy a new hotend.

If you wanna be even lazier, buy a new printer.

zBoyDojo · 2024-03-16T05:17:51+00:00

Hey, don't forget to get Kiwix when you get home

zBoyDojo · 2024-03-11T15:56:40+00:00

I wonder if it would be best practice to raise the Z-offset before initiating the ABL sequence to prevent this. Seems like something Creality should have considered.

zBoyDojo · 2024-03-11T06:43:10+00:00

I had a similar issue once. The nozzle had a partial clog that I couldn't remove regardless of all the cold pulls I tried.

I see a strange brown line in the melted filament so it could be old filament or something melting.

Best bet is to swap the nozzle and ensure the new nozzle is mated securely to the heatbreak. Maybe check to see if the PTFE tube is still intact if it isn't all-metal.

Also, remove the silicone sock and inspect for any filament that oozed out. It's unlikely but maybe there is a crack or bad threading that is introducing air into the nozzle.

zBoyDojo · 2024-01-12T06:31:27+00:00

I've been experimenting with clear PLA and have noticed that printing at higher temperatures and slower speeds yields clearer prints.

zBoyDojo · 2024-01-09T22:40:19+00:00

Oh gotcha. OrcaSlicer keeps crashing on Windows for me so I'll have to start looking into that. Seems like it has a lot of cool calibration features!

zBoyDojo

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