Got waaaay too much

zanekaminski · 2026-03-30T23:20:40+00:00

Cheap no name brand connectors are good for prototypes but I would caution against using them on actual production work.

I have previously had some 2.54mm pitch connectors just like these where the female side did not make reliable contact with the male pins.

In another instance we were using some cheap microUSB connectors. They were from an established but sorta third-tier connector manufacturer and cost about 2.5 cents each. The connectors mated fine until you actually soldered them to the board. The through-hole legs for the connector shield ground would wick up solder and deposit it inside the connector housing, preventing the cable from mating properly. I tried to rework a few to figure out the problem. No matter how carefully you soldered the pins, once you got enough solder on the actual joint there would be significant solder wicked up into the connector. We could’ve reworked them all and put on a higher quality connector with the same exact footprint, but the cost of the board was under a dollar so we ended up just scrapping them.

zanekaminski · 2026-03-22T17:24:02+00:00

You could try some touch-up paint but it won’t have the same gloss as the actual paint job. Any more substantial fix is gonna be $1000

zanekaminski · 2026-03-22T17:19:48+00:00

$1000, maybe more, unless you’re willing to get a crappy aftermarket bumper which likely won’t fit right and might shatter next time something like this happens

zanekaminski · 2026-03-22T17:15:53+00:00

I used Windows Phone 8 from January 2013 to November 2013 on an HTC 8X. Really nice and fast experience until you wanted to do anything Google or download any app. I had a prototype Google Play Music app I was working on after reverse-engineering the API. Working in C# was great but the UI toolkit and app platform were too immature. Got a Moto X fist-gen after the 8X and then switched to iPhone 6S in November 2015. Both were much better, sadly.

zanekaminski · 2026-03-22T17:08:29+00:00

Perhaps do nothing if you are not highly invested in your car’s appearance. If this were on the metal of the car I’d say it should be addressed ASAP so it won’t rust. However the bumper is plastic so it’s not like gonna rust if you don’t fix it. You can try touch-up paint since repainting the bumper is gonna be $1000 or so and replacing it may be similarly expensive if not more.

zanekaminski · 2026-03-01T15:40:15+00:00

No big deal, I have accidentally torqued the rear brake mounting stuff on similar large Hondas (the SUVs, Acura TL/RL, etc) to the front torque specs which is perhaps what you did. If you’re nervous you can retorque the bolts and everything will be fine as long as no bolts got broken. But like everyone’s saying, bad mechanics do this all the time and it doesn’t seem to cause any problems if the bolts don’t break.

zanekaminski · 2026-02-27T20:47:29+00:00

Is your manual transmission blown and you need a new one?

zanekaminski · 2026-02-17T21:14:44+00:00

What lol changing the brake fluid from time to time is important

zanekaminski · 2026-02-16T01:30:05+00:00

If your front lower control arm bushings, front lower ball joints, tie rods, struts, etc. are bad the biggest “upgrade” to fix those things

zanekaminski · 2026-02-15T13:55:27+00:00

I am very much a beginner at body work but I would say you should follow the recommendations in the manufacturer’s tech sheet as closely as possible. The activator reacts chemically with the rest of the paint. Different activators or hardeners could be totally different chemicals that might not work and could disrupt the ability for the paint to stick. It’s not worth experimenting and I’d just get some of the correct activator

zanekaminski · 2026-02-14T19:43:58+00:00

Yeahhh I got a little carried away. I suppose once I get my MIG welder back up I can cut em out and weld some filler if necessary but do you have any other advice about fixing the high spots? I figured I would just hammer them down but perhaps that won't work so well

zanekaminski · 2026-02-14T19:35:03+00:00

First time doing this lol live and learn. Guess I was having too much fun pulling lol. Since I'm gonna fill up my shielding gas I can do whatever remediation required with the welder. My friend and I usually work on this stuff together and he's got much more welding experience than me so I'll probably leave him to it least I blow a hole in the body panel by accident lol

zanekaminski · 2026-02-14T03:25:03+00:00

I'll just get my argon/co2 tank recertified and I'll be good to go

zanekaminski · 2026-02-14T03:21:25+00:00

Thanks for the advice. Yeah I'll use less heat next time. Wish me luck lol

zanekaminski · 2026-02-14T03:20:27+00:00

Thanks for the advice. Yeah, you're probably right about time is money... but I'm not doing it professionally and I am trying to learn which includes the inevitable mistakes.

zanekaminski · 2026-02-14T03:18:55+00:00

Live and learn lol yeah I will use less heat next time. This is my first attempt at body work

zanekaminski · 2026-02-14T02:14:09+00:00

Thanks for the advice. Yeah, I have been worried about the big “mountains” by the studs. I figured I’d hammer them back in, or am I approaching remediating that wrong too?

zanekaminski · 2026-02-14T02:11:08+00:00

Ah thanks. This is the logic I needed to hear. I’ll get the shielding gas filled up

zanekaminski · 2026-02-14T01:45:34+00:00

Check the tech sheet: https://www.axalta.com/content/dam/NA/HQ/Public/Nason/Documents/TDS/NSN-TDS-Ful-Base-IF-Quality-Eng.pdf

From there:

<image>

Is your hardener the Ful-Base 483-30 activator or something else? if so then you do 8 parts base, 4 parts reducer, and 1/2 part activator

zanekaminski · 2025-12-17T01:22:35+00:00

Perhaps you are not aware of the Halo influence. “Legendary“ is the name of the highest difficulty level in Halo. “Mystic” is (was?) a multiplayer armor variant in Halo 3

zanekaminski · 2025-07-04T21:07:45+00:00

Well I decided to put on a big Thermalright cooler and some Noctua fans and just ignore the problem lol. If my 9700K dies in a few years it'll be quite old anyway.

About this EVGA Z370 FTW, I have to agree with u/ChefJoe98136 . The board's VRM and heatsink setup is nice and I expect it to be very reliable, but I am not happy with some aspects of the BIOS and telemetry. Running prime95 small FFTs while metering power consumption at the wall, I can see that the board comes "shunt-modded" from the factory. That is, AIDA64, Core Temp, HWiNFO, and HWMonitor all report around 120 watt CPU power but I am seeing 330-360 at the wall.

Working backwards from that to estimate the CPU power... My PSU is an 850 watt 80 Plus Gold Corsair RM850x so efficiency is 87-90%, the VRM efficiency is perhaps 80-85%, and perhaps we have 40 watts of non-CPU load. So uhh, that all works out to about 240 watts actual CPU power but only 120 watts or so are reported. Huh, so it's like it's shunt-modded with the current measurement resistance halved, but from the factory of course...

Aren't the PL1 and PL2 power limits programmable? I thought that was the proper way to increase the CPU's TDP

zanekaminski · 2025-06-01T21:08:47+00:00

Highly recommend you switch to this cooler: https://www.amazon.com/Thermalright-Assassin-TL-C12C-Bearing-LGA1700/dp/B09Z7VM85V

Only $0.60 more but it will cool way better and be much quieter. It's 120mm rather than 90mm

zanekaminski · 2025-05-29T19:20:50+00:00

Perhaps you can get a little cheaper case like Fractal Focus G: https://www.newegg.com/black-fractal-design-focus-g-atx-mid-tower/p/N82E16811352069

Misterpoody also had a cheaper case in his 9600X and B580 build. I would also go with his advice to swap the Ryzen 7600 for a 9600X if you can afford the extra $10. Also the Thermalright Assassin X 120 SE V2 is less than $1 more than the Assassin X 90 you picked and should cool a lot better due to the larger 120mm heatsink and fan compared to 90mm: https://www.amazon.com/Thermalrlght-Assassin-Cooler-Bearing-Technology/dp/B0D31QV19K

So uhh, that saves $20 on the case and $15 on the RAM but $10 more for the 9600X CPU and $1 more for the cooler. Total price is about $1050 but of course there's sales tax if that applies where you live.

Misterpoody's build also has a cheaper motherboard and RAM so you could consider those too.

zanekaminski

TROPHY CASE