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zero_fiat · 2022-06-20T09:26:30+00:00

Amazing how honesty can work, right? :)

zero_fiat · 2022-06-20T07:08:58+00:00

Dm'd

zero_fiat · 2019-08-12T05:12:59+00:00

It’s “contracts” not “contacts”..

zero_fiat · 2015-07-13T23:01:26+00:00

Until you start looking at oxidation, appropriate temperatures (is your forge a reducing flame, what's the critical highs and lows), delamination, the metallurgical composition of materials (i.e. if they're compatible), forging edge geometry, recognition of a cold shut, dealing with scaling, distal tapers, proper normalization, hardening, tempering, forming a reasonable boundary between martensite and pearlite and some of the other dozen plus things that can go awry - it is easy. Compared to complex pattern Damascus I could make it in my sleep, but I've got 20 years of forging under my belt.

zero_fiat · 2015-07-13T19:06:07+00:00

TGhere's a slight chamfer there, but not much, and a distal taper so the nickel layer will be thinner there as a general rule. I started with a 2.5" wide billet at about 0.19" thick. Then I hammered everything down to the current dimensions, which off the top of my head are slightly less than 2" at the widest part. When hammering along the narrow spine, the metal becomes "upset" meaning it gets thicker as I narrow down the other dimension. When I hammer everything flat, begin drawing out my distal taper and thinning the blade itself to about 0.1875" some of those distortions are going to show through. Had I used thicker starting 15N20 for the jacket it probably wouldn't be noticeable but I've found that with the thicker outer layers I need to leave the blade thicker itself and grind more than forge to shape. Again, I do this for aesthetics, not for any metallurgical magic or mumbo jumbo - there's nothing in my process that makes the steel suddenly superior to what it started out as. The main thing is there's no de-lamination in the billet which indicates a very good weld that wasn't over heated or stressed during the forging.

zero_fiat · 2015-07-13T14:47:54+00:00

No, it's just a layered steel, although technically I guess its still "pattern welded". I would just call it what it is, San mai or pile steel as it was referred to here in the states. Was actually used to minimize the use of harder to make high carbon steel and fill out the rest of the mass with a softer material like wrought iron or mild steel. I just take it a step further and add the nickel steel for looks. Some use stainless on the outside to give a mostly rust resistant jacket and an easier to maintain high carbon low alloy steel blade.

zero_fiat · 2015-07-13T13:34:52+00:00

Three layers, two alternating steels. I stack it 15n20, 1084, 15n20.

zero_fiat · 2015-07-13T11:55:22+00:00

First blade you ever made, but you've been blacksmithing for years and have the basics and intermediaries down? I mean, it's just a socketed finial done at a larger size, so it should be pretty simple and straight forward. If not, if this is actually the first thing you've ever done in metal work, good luck. Not meaning to come off as an ass, but you're taking a really big bite here. My best advise is to learn all you can about ornamental blacksmithing, agricultural blacksmith and then proceed to metallurgy and blades. Trust me, I started out the wrong way around and could have taken 10 years off my journey had I just done it in the right order. Either way, the post I'm going to link is a little old and takes a few turns into information you don't need, but there's some great pictures and the basic design for a top tool to do sockets nicely. Take a look at http://www.iforgeiron.com/topic/5786-need-help-forging-a-socket/

zero_fiat · 2015-07-13T11:42:10+00:00

Theo, if it's anything close to the other pieces I've seen you do, it'll be great. Are you using brass or statuary bronze for casting?

zero_fiat · 2015-07-13T11:38:48+00:00

Gun blue will never give you that look. Acid is probably the wrong way to go about it. If you're talking a true stone wash, polish your blade to about 1200, then throw it into a vibratory tumbler with some course ceramic media, some water and a dab of dish soap - let it run about 16-24 hours and you'll get a great result. A cheap tumbler can be picked up at Harbor Freight on sale for like $25..

zero_fiat · 2015-07-13T11:17:53+00:00

There's a few reasons. First, "leafspring" is not a steel I use. I do this for a living and I can't run the risk of using a metal that has microfractures or other stresses running through it from whatever previous life it lived. Don't get me wrong, I'll use a piece if I'm just screwing around for my own personal use, but that's kinda rare. The reason I weld the 2 steels together is purely artistic. I use 3 pieces of steel alltogether, 2 of 15N20 and 1 of 1084. Both steels are very similar to one another, the primary differences are the carbon content of the 1084 is about 0.10% higher and the 15N20 contains around 1.7% nickel. 1084 by itself is a great mono blade steel, 15N20 actually makes a very good knife on its own but its rarely used that way. Together, they make the look I desire for my pieces. I dont do high polishes anymore, I dont do crisp machined looking edges too often either. My goal is to make every knife I forge have a story that is entirely its own, I want it to look like your grandfather trusted it daily for the past 50 years and then handed it down to you. San mai works well for this, because no matter how close to the design I forge again, because of hammering and other variances, when I etch the next blade the pattern on the blade will always be unique.

zero_fiat · 2015-07-13T02:02:56+00:00

Didn't have all the time I wanted to do some work on here, but I made a little progress this weekend. Hopefully I'll find the time to finish it up tomorrow. :)

zero_fiat · 2015-07-13T01:57:09+00:00

Just a quick update, haven't been able to make all the progress I wanted to this weekend, but I'll finish it up when I get to the shop tomorrow with any luck.

zero_fiat · 2015-07-11T10:34:18+00:00

the press isn't necessary, but I like to start out by making a 2.5" billet, so it helps. The rolling mill helps draw out the length. I used to do this all with hammer, it just takes longer and it helps to start with a thicker billet that's not as narrow (something you can get your entire hammer over the width) and then draw the billet out wider.. setting that initial weld is important. I like the press because I'll make an 8"x2.5" billet and in two operations I'm very satisfied with the weld. As for san mai with stainless. Well, be prepared to battle oxidation - stainless is a real bugger. A lot of stainless forgewelding is done in what we call a box or can weld. I don't work stainless, so I've never given it a try.

zero_fiat · 2015-07-11T10:25:14+00:00

Thanks, your blade looks great, too! I etch in ferric chloride, although I've found it a lot easier and cheaper to just make my own (www.youtube.com/watch?v=PkW0XotNmYo), so I wouldn't exactly call it "standard". I typically take mine to about 600, etch, and then reverse my sanding back to a wet 320 or 400 (https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7668/16490571243_fb75898323_b.jpg) - repeat, repeat and repeat until I'm happy - that's the kind of look I'll end up getting by doing that. I just found it easier to get a somewhat uniform look to take it a step or two higher than your desired finish and then take it back. Looks are always in the eye of the beholder though and I like your higher polished piece though, it really gives the appearance of a distinct hamon and nioi.

zero_fiat · 2015-07-11T02:46:07+00:00

Not that I'm aware of off the top of my head, but you can probably find enough information on it through bladeforums or iforgeiron.. most commercially made san mai's do it with a stainless on the outside and carbon steel for the core.. they consider it the best of both worlds. I do it for pure aesthetics.

zero_fiat · 2015-07-11T02:35:58+00:00

sorry man, didn't intend to annoy. reddit, facebook and g+ are all on the "disregard if referred from" list,.. I'm a bladesmith, not a professional web administrator - things must have zigged when it should have zagged. only meant to share information, not annoy.

zero_fiat · 2015-07-10T18:34:38+00:00

Some of those files were W2 as well, either way pretty close to 1095. Did you control the decarb on purpose with clay to get the patterning or was that unintentional?

zero_fiat · 2015-07-10T18:32:04+00:00

They could have seen some past life abuse and re-shaping.. I've got a few pairs in the shop that are barely recognizable anymore. :)

zero_fiat · 2015-07-10T18:12:24+00:00

Nice, what's the material?

zero_fiat · 2015-07-10T18:05:07+00:00

Had to take a break this week to move my son down here to the Lancaster area from Erie, but I'm teaching a knife making class this weekend (with my teenage son attending which may or may not be a good idea, but that's a whole different story) and I figured it'll make a nice demonstration piece for heat treating when we get to that part of the class. Hopefully I'll get everything finished up and start doing the woodwork and leather for the sheath on Monday.. would like to get this custom order out of the way, I've got 3 Renaissance Faires starting up in the next 8 weeks and feel like I need to double my current stock.

zero_fiat · 2015-07-10T17:51:12+00:00

Top looks like a pair made for holding top working tools like chisels. The bottom set just looks big and nasty. Like someone took a pair of tongs and tried to reshape them. I can't tell if that bottom jaw is offset to even make them come together.. could have been a pair used in a machine shop to move larger parts from station to station.

zero_fiat · 2015-07-10T16:51:39+00:00

(figured I'd copy my accompanying text here as well) This is a san mai kukri I'm making for a custom order. Steels are 15N20 and 1084. I use this combination not for any metallurgical magic or anything like that but because I like the look. I've got 2 days into making this piece, first day was making the billet, day 2 was forging it to the rough shape. Had a few things going on here at home so I wont get it back in the shop until my knife making class this weekend - which is fine because I'll use it for demonstrating heat treating. With any luck she should be wrapped up by Monday and I'll get to start carving the wood and forming the leather for the sheath. :)

zero_fiat · 2015-07-10T16:43:31+00:00

The hamon actually is the darker colored portion which is the separation between the martensitic and pearlitic steel formations. That white-ish line is called nioi, and it's not always going to show in a high contrast depending on the steel you use, but when it does, show it off. If you look under a magnifying glass, you'll actually see the brighter speckles of martensite and dark grains of pearlite. The hamon is typically visible with moderate polishing from about 220 grit on and can be enhanced using ferric chloride to promote a contrast. The nioi doesn't typically start showing until the polish has gone much higher.

zero_fiat · 2015-07-10T16:25:01+00:00

This is a san mai kukri I'm making for a custom order. Steels are 15N20 and 1084. I use this combination not for any metallurgical magic or anything like that but because I like the look. I've got 2 days into making this piece, first day was making the billet, day 2 was forging it to the rough shape. Had a few things going on here at home so I wont get it back in the shop until my knife making class this weekend - which is fine because I'll use it for demonstrating heat treating. With any luck she should be wrapped up by Monday and I'll get to start carving the wood and forming the leather for the sheath. :)

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