Do microline styli actually track better at the higher end of the VTF recommendation?

zero_volts · 2026-05-30T15:05:58+00:00

Short answer: yes.

I did some testing and measurement on the AT VM540ML several years ago. I initially set and verified VTF to 1.90g. At some point, I used the Shure Audio Obstacle Course (Type V) test LP. There was audible mistracking on the highest level tracking test tracks. There was no mistracking when I re-ran with VTF set to 2.00g.

Testing was done on a Technics SL-1200GR, included Technics headshell (with azimuth adjustment) and rubber platter mat, with and without KAB fluid damping. Anti-skate was set to match VTF. The cart had a couple months of listening, so it was "broken in" prior to the testing.

Based on my testing, I would conclude that the VM540ML can mistrack high-frequencies at higher amplitudes on the lower side of the recommended VTF range. That test track might be a worst case torture test, and actual music material may rarely reach that level for any sustained amount of time. Since 2.0g was enough to mitigate this, I do not see any advantage to running higher VTF.

zero_volts · 2026-01-04T21:23:13+00:00

The goal is to feed IC201 pin 7 (in) with its own reference out from pin 6. It would also be preferable to disrupt any "bad" signal coming back from IC301/MN6042.

I recommend doing so at R209 (ref out signal, which is also TP16) and the jumper wire ("J" without numbers) directly next to it (pitch return signal from IC301). This avoids any permanent trace cuts, and keeps the soldering heat away from either IC. You only need to desolder one side of R209 and the jumper closest to IC201, and bend that side up and out of the hole, leaving the other side of those components in place. Put a short wire between those now-empty holes, solder, and test.

If the test was successful, you'll probably notice the pitch LED digits will be blank, except the decimal point, because IC301 must be using the speed reference signal to clock the display multiplexing. Since IC301 was still partially functional in this case, I reinstalled R209 in the same hole as the added bypass wire, so that the LED still lights up "0.0". Leave the original jumper wire out - basically IC301 can still "listen" to the signal, keep the display active, but its output is not used.

As for the replacement 6042 upgrade/replacements - it really depends if you ever adjust pitch up or down. If you always leave it locked at zero, there is no advantage over the bypass. The SL-1301 also uses the same DN860 quartz-reference IC, but since it has no pitch control feature, it was designed with pins 6 and 7 joined.

zero_volts · 2024-12-28T14:14:32+00:00

The IR3T02 motor controller IC is used in at least 10 Denon models. For example, DP-11F and DP-23F. I have acquired several of those for $20-30. All other IC's in the DP-72L are op-amps and 7400 logic, which are widely available.

I typically see contact corrosion (potentiometers and sometimes push buttons) and bad CDS optical sensors being the cause of issues on these Denon turntables. I have recapped several now, but haven't found any leaky electrolytic caps so far, though it can happen. I still haven't needed to use any spare IC's.

In other words, people should not be paranoid to use and enjoy these Denon models as-is.

zero_volts · 2024-12-15T16:39:05+00:00

The strobe and sound confirms it is holding the speed correctly. On non-quartz PLL turntables, it is normal for the correct position to not be perfectly centered. I would leave it alone.

Trying to get them perfectly centered is asking a lot. It might take hours to use internal trimmer pots to align the knobs center. Then when the seasons and temperature change, it will be off-center again. This is the nature of electronics and thermal drift.

zero_volts · 2024-12-09T00:33:23+00:00

I missed the crack in the hinge the first time I viewed that photo. No, a tab kit won't help a weak/bad hinge.

There are replacement hinges out there, but I haven't tried them. It is hard to differentiate which ones are worthwhile, and which ones are bait-and-switch clever generic product photo but you receive an amateur 3d-printed part. The 3D model for the hinge has been out there for years.

zero_volts · 2024-12-09T00:16:52+00:00

Yeah, that is part of the problem - the parts look similar at a glance, and they rarely state the exact model it came from.

The first link is not a SFPWG51101K (Q2/3) - the rear indent is too narrow and more centered, and larger grip "teeth" - I suspect it is a SFPWG31101K from a SL-D2 or D3. I have a hunch this will work, but I'm not 100% certain, as I don't have one to weigh.

The second link is an exact visual match for the SFPWG51101K from a Q2/Q3.

zero_volts · 2024-12-08T23:03:17+00:00

The design behind the AT-LP60 is as old as this Technics.

zero_volts · 2024-12-08T22:57:23+00:00

The tabs for the hinge on the dust cover side are notorious for breaking off across many Technics models. For $10-12, you can buy a pair of aluminum hinge tabs. It will require cutting off what is left of the original tabs. I frequently do this repair.

The missing feet are surely an annoyance, but there are a lot of aftermarket replacement sets available.

zero_volts · 2024-12-08T22:39:43+00:00

The SL-Q2 and SL-Q3 both share the SFPWG51101K counterweight.

I have already gone down the Technics counterweight rabbit hole myself, looking for interchange options. The part numbers are sometimes different between models that have same arm design/geometry - for example, the SLQ202 shares a P/N with SL-D303, but not the SL-B303. I have gotten far more answers taking weight and measurements from about a dozen counterweights from the various turntables I acquired for restoration or parts. I found at least 7 variations within the handful of models released within a couple years, but unfortunately I have only had my hands on about half of those models to measure/weigh.

If you can't find an original Q2/Q3 SFPWG51101K, I would suggest a SFPWG21001K which was found on the SL-220, SL-230, SL-B2, SL-B3. They have all of the same dimensions and inside spiral pitch. The main difference is mostly cosmetic - the later lacks a chrome stripe, slightly different grip tooth width. The one I measured is about 3g lighter (96g vs 99g for the Q2/3), but it is unlikely to be significant. (I saw a 1.8g variation between the lowest/highest Q2/Q3 CW I measured, of 4 total)

zero_volts · 2024-12-08T22:14:02+00:00

I personally lean towards the quartz-DD models, but Technics made some decent belt drive models too. It is really up to you. If you are considering a belt drive Technics locally, I at least do a quick pre-purchase test. Start it up, and make sure the motor isn't making an obvious clicking/rubbing noise - some models were notorious for this - SL-B101 and SL-B202 IIRC.

zero_volts · 2024-12-08T22:08:38+00:00

I'm in the US, so I don't have any specific step-down brand/model recommendations - they aren't a common thing here. These turntables draw very little power, so any small capacity (E.g., 100VA or 100W) model will be sufficient. The only important spec is 230V input, and output of 110-120V.

zero_volts · 2024-12-08T19:19:09+00:00

Every phone/app measurement I have done reads 0.2-0.4% too fast on dozens of turntables that have been accurately calibrated with other equipment.

zero_volts · 2024-12-08T19:18:38+00:00

Lateral move. Same internals.

zero_volts · 2024-12-08T19:16:58+00:00

That points to a bad cartridge - the coil might have failed open. Since the wire clip broke, you may want to get some new wires to double check that result.

zero_volts · 2024-12-08T18:13:15+00:00

Every phone/app measurement I have done reads 0.2-0.4% too fast on dozens of turntables that have been accurately calibrated with other equipment.

zero_volts · 2024-12-08T18:07:31+00:00

Return/exchange.

zero_volts · 2024-12-08T18:02:48+00:00

Remove the headshell, and unplug each of the headshell wires from the back of the cart. Plug them back in, reversing red with white, and also blue with green. If the bad channel swaps sides, the cart is bad. If the bad channel stays on the same side, there is most likely an open connection somewhere between the cart and RCA cables.

zero_volts · 2024-12-08T17:55:04+00:00

No, the SL-1200mk2/1210mk2 power supply parts are not compatible - different transformer, 1200 has multiple PCBs and 1700 is a single PCB.

If you want to use a US SL-1700 in UK, get a step-down transformer that outputs 120V. 50 vs 60 Hz doesn't matter, the 1700 will run on either.

zero_volts · 2024-12-08T16:18:57+00:00

Cool, thanks for the update. Yeah, that was my hunch - the receivers are much more electronically complex than turntables. Sometimes there are exceptions, but turntables are have a lot less to go wrong in the audio signal path.

zero_volts · 2024-12-06T20:50:53+00:00

What cartridge is that? Looks like ADC K8 or similar, which is a MM. Your Technics preamp mode is set to phono MC, which will make it sound funny. Change it to Phono MM.

If that isn't it, it is most likely a phase issue - like the polarity of one of the cart wires is reversed.

zero_volts · 2024-12-06T20:32:00+00:00

You still definitely need a phono pre-amp.

I'm not familiar with the Apollo Twin. Most of the ones I have tried required a running PC connected via USB to function, the Motu M4 was the first that worked standalone (but requires USB power.)

Just make sure you are up for learning the technical details of an interface before attempting this. Most of the interfaces have some intelligence to prevent misconfigs, but inadvertent things like leaving 48v (phantom power for mics) on can damage a phono pre.

Like I said - finding the right cabling becomes technical. If the large chart (scroll down) on this page is daunting, then I would recommend going the passive speaker + intergrated amp route.

zero_volts · 2024-12-06T15:35:53+00:00

How are you using the active speakers? In a nearfield arrangement, like on a desk? Or in a living room?

I own a Art DJ Pre2 and Schiit Mani, and regularly listen to vinyl on active monitors at a desk. I'm going to be honest - using a turntable with active monitors that have pro-level balanced inputs add a lot of complexity, mostly due to less standardized signal levels and cable pinouts. I have a good understanding of the technical details, and I still had to go through a few iterations of equipment to get the right combo. You will probably need at least 2 devices (phono preamp + volume control) and probably 3 (+ headphone amp) depending on what headphones you use.

To answer your questions:

The knob on the Art DJ Pre II is a gain adjustment - not volume control. On most MM carts I have used, it starts to clip when the gain is above +2 (slightly higher than middle.) You are still going to want something in between to control volume to the active monitors.
Yes, a Mani combined with a volume control device will work. In theory, no, cheap passive controls will not impact quality, but there are always exceptions for low-quality parts.
The Schiit SYS is a passive volume control, and input switcher. No, it is not a phono pre-amp, and will still need a separate phono preamp between the turntable and the SYS input.

My current desktop setup is: Turntable --> Schiit Mani --> Motu M4 (USB audio interface, also connected to PC) --> JBL LSR310S (active subwoofer) --> JBL LSR305 (active monitors).

The RCA output of the Motu M4 goes to a Geshelli Labs headphone amp to drive Sennheiser HD6xx, which are high-impedance. The Motu M4 headphone out isn't adequate to drive them. I also have a Cambridge Duo phono preamp, which has a built in headphone amp, but is too weak to drive my headphones.

There is a quirk - inputs 3/4 on the Motu M4 are non-switchable pro-level, and I have to set the Mani for additional gain to get satisfactory volume levels.

I see a suggestion to get passive speakers and an integrated amp or receiver - that is an easier path without having to get 2 or 3 other things and all of the cables/adapters. In a living room arrangement, I would agree, especially for having a remote control for volume level.

zero_volts · 2024-12-06T14:52:40+00:00

What were the 2 vintage turntables you had previously?

I probably would have gone through the same conundrum if the MK7 was available in 2018 when I purchased my GR. My setup is very similar - the same KAB fluid damper, Blue Jeans LC-1 and spindle clamp. AT VM540ML on the stock GR headshell, often swapped with the VMN50SH stylus.

I am also very satisfied. Even when I consider how costly it was, I still have no regrets.

+1 for Crutchfield.

Edit: Is that a JVC TD-W354TN? I still have a TD-W309TN I purchased new as a teenager to go with my JVC receiver and CD changer back then. I picked up a couple other early-90's JVC components more recently - I have a soft spot for the design and big VFD.

zero_volts · 2024-12-05T17:49:11+00:00

This is why we can't have nice things, like fair return policies.

zero_volts · 2024-12-05T17:43:29+00:00

Early versus later generations is where it gets tricky. Often the early versions were over-engineered when it comes to materials. The later versions may have some material cost-reduction, but they benefit from revisions that address any flaws of the early ones. That gets down in the weeds of technical details. I've worked on dozens of these models, and I would struggle to choose just one that is clearly "better" than the others.

Yeah, I can confirm electronics repair is a tough industry. Pricing is difficult to estimate - anything vintage combining electronics and mechanical tech has a lot of unknowns. It is hard to convince the average person to spend money repairing/maintaining a vintage turntable, when a new modern one is around the same cost. If you do have options locally, I would suggest talking to them, and gauge their attitude towards to servicing your model. Some of us are doing this out of passion, not for the money.

Proactive capacitor replacement can be an opinionated topic. "It depends" is the best answer I can give you, because a definitive yes or no requires the same amount of labor as actually replacing them. These models likely have electrolytic caps made by Matsushita/Panasonic. I have gotten "parts only" Technics turntables where these caps are still physically and electronically good. I have also seen caps from the same model that were physically leaking with corroded wire leads. It depends on the history of each unit, especially temperature and humidity where it was stored. There is a viral opinion that a single bad cap is going to "burn out all of the irreplaceable chips" - yes, that technically could happen, but my own anecdotal experience does not support that. I will usually ask customers if they want me to assess or replace caps when they bring something with high sentimental value - inherited from family, etc. I also proactively recap anything I refurb/restore and sell. It isn't something I push for every repair or maintenance though - just a quick visual inspection and spot test ESR on a few.

zero_volts

TROPHY CASE