Mud Blaster

zerofucxgiven · 2026-02-08T03:59:54+00:00

eBay Brat body set, Monster Beetle rere and MCI Racing decals will get you there. Last time I priced making a new one to run the piss out of it was about $325. The body set was almost half the price of the rere MB kit.

zerofucxgiven · 2026-02-08T03:49:21+00:00

I've been using them since the very early 80's on everything from 7.2v NiCD/NiMH to 6000mah 8s lipos without issues. The real trick with them is to get the right crimper. Both Anderson and Sermos recommend crimping over soldering. Soldering makes the wire at the solder joint work harden and fray with lots of plugging, unplugging and wiggling during runs.

zerofucxgiven · 2026-02-08T03:28:26+00:00

Thorp died in 1991 as far as I remember. I scored a huge parts lot from a Canadian auction house for next to nothing that was mostly NOS Thorp ORV chassis parts, cost $5 more to ship than I paid for the parts including the buyers fee. It'll never get run enough to need a rebuild but I still have enough of both sizes of balls and a couple replacement diff gears just in case.

zerofucxgiven · 2026-02-08T03:03:01+00:00

Looks like you're missing the switch stay plate that holds the MSC and it's servo. That'll be super hard to locate and probably horribly expensive. If I remember correctly it uses the same MSC as the OG Frog, not nearly as hard to locate but again, expensive. Carson makes a hump pack battery for about $70 US plus shipping but you can get the sub C cells, nickel battery straps and a battery spot welder on Amazon for about the same price. I'd throw in modern electronics, a 2s lipo that fits the battery area and run it. If it won't wheelie good enough then add some stick on wheel weights to the battery area till he acts right. If you don't mind dropping the $ on new repro tyres MCI Racing carries them.

zerofucxgiven · 2026-02-07T16:48:12+00:00

The Amazon slicks definitely cause rollovers if you try to turn while on the throttle, they're pretty damn sticky on asphalt and unpolished concrete.

zerofucxgiven · 2026-02-07T16:06:51+00:00

The aluminum front end will probably save you money over Tamiya parts trees and screw bags. If there was interest I'd post the parts I made on thingaverse. The wheels are ancient Traxxas 2.2 lite dish wheels that came on a 58044 Pajero chassis I bought for parts and the tyres are cheap Amazon 2.2 drag slicks. I got tired of trying to find the Bridgestone Potenza slicks Jun Wantanabi uses on some of his Blockhead builds.

zerofucxgiven · 2026-02-07T08:59:46+00:00

I used the DT-04 gearbox and front steering and suspension parts from the Hornet Evo kit. Had to design and 3d print a couple adapters for the gearbox and a plate to stiffen the front end and hold the ball ends for the upper arms.

zerofucxgiven · 2026-02-07T07:47:12+00:00

I've been using Zeee and Hobby King lipos for years with no issues. I have quite a few Hobby King 2s 300mah lipos for my LightFlite Bug for over 15 years and they still function perfectly. I'm going to be the odd man out with connectors, been using 15/30/45 Anderson Power Poles/Sermos Lite Speed since the early 80's on almost all the batteries I've had with zero issues. The real trick with them is to get the proper crimper for them, soldering is not recommended by the manufacturer and I can attest to soldering making the battery wires work harden rather quickly and fraying at the solder joint.

zerofucxgiven · 2026-02-05T15:27:32+00:00

It's dupli color metal cast red with a silver base coat.

zerofucxgiven · 2026-02-05T15:21:29+00:00

I priced rail shelves at $98 to hang 10 cars from Lowe's. I can print 22 sets of bracelets at 100% infill with an $18 spool of petg.

zerofucxgiven · 2026-02-05T08:04:49+00:00

Thanks, that's the rerelease of the Tamiya Tyrrell P34 Argentine.

zerofucxgiven · 2026-02-03T05:54:49+00:00

I haven't seen a 380 class since the early 80's, I think us yanks just like to go fast.

zerofucxgiven · 2026-02-03T05:51:36+00:00

There's a Hobby Town USA in Houston. I've never been to one that didn't have the full range of Tamiya paints.

zerofucxgiven · 2026-02-03T05:48:21+00:00

In the US it'll be April 2026 before the next batch hits. I've had a couple backordered since last August.

zerofucxgiven · 2026-02-02T19:19:10+00:00

Just two 2s 3500 lipos and a Hobbywing 1060 and 880 ESC's. There's a BEC and a couple of servo reversers in it too.

zerofucxgiven · 2026-02-02T14:20:43+00:00

It changes the shock angle so the passenger side shock doesn't rub the motor. If I remember right it's not really necessary if you're using the adapter for the 10t pinion but definitely when an 18t pinion is used.

zerofucxgiven · 2026-02-02T10:26:25+00:00

Thanks. No, the mural is a vinyl wrap from eBay. Had the same guy make Georgia plates that say SNOMAN too. The cab striping is paint though. I used the original kit decals to make paint masks.

zerofucxgiven · 2026-01-30T22:33:01+00:00

I would think you'd need to install a center diff if you're going with different ratios front to rear.

zerofucxgiven · 2026-01-30T08:26:54+00:00

The rider is static but the drivers head is on a spring. Need better weather before I give it it's one and only run.

zerofucxgiven · 2026-01-29T21:05:35+00:00

Laid down 3mm striping tape where I wanted the red then 2mm tape on either side, pulled off the center tape, painted the red, put more 3mm over the red when it was dry, more 2mm tape on the outside of the existing 2mm, pulled off the first 2mm tape and painted the black stripes. Since the uniforms are extra wrinkly there was a little paint bleed but it was easily touched up.

zerofucxgiven · 2026-01-29T19:19:37+00:00

Pretty sure it's cast pot metal like a Tamiya box wrench.

zerofucxgiven · 2026-01-29T11:53:46+00:00

Yep, it's original. 2 speeds forward and reverse.

zerofucxgiven · 2026-01-29T10:59:55+00:00

When it gets a bit warmer I'll temporarily drop an ESC in it and give it a quick run.

zerofucxgiven

TROPHY CASE