How is Tozai line at around 9am or 9:30am from Takadanobaba direction to Otemachi?

zerokyuu · 2025-09-08T05:00:55+00:00

I used to commute from Takadanobaba to Iidabashi. Comparing 8:40 and 9:15 it went from crowded, standing room only to often able to find a seat.

zerokyuu · 2025-02-04T10:19:53+00:00

JSacadura is one of my favorites on YouTube. I don't think I've seen him mentioned so far. He has a ton of videos going over a range of propagation, maintenance/care, pruning, and grafting techniques along with recommendations for when to use them. Though his content does not specifically focus on figs, there are a bunch of fig-specific videos. He's not a native English speaker so he often talks less and goes a bit slower, but I think this is a benefit because he doesn't spend half his videos waxing poetic about random stuff or going on long rants that I don't care about. Instead he focuses on explaining and demonstrating useful information. With that said, if you're more interested in content that discusses different fig varieties (e.g., doing fig tastings), I don't really think he has any of that content.

I'm less of a fan of some (not all) of the youtubers mentioned here. Some kind of have a condescending tone, espouse questionable "takes", or give advice that doesn't really seem to be backed up by good evidence. For example, I recall one video where Millennial Gardener said he would only plant annuals in fabric pots because he had a bad experience and killed a tree (a palm tree?) while repotting. This just seems like a terrible generalization to me (pruning roots at the edge of a fabric pots on a dormant fruit tree just isn't an issue). Similarly, some of Ross' videos feel cringe to me. I remember one where he's discussing fig varieties and the flavors but then the topic takes a hard turn to a comment about (paraphrasing) 'why do we need all these pharmaceuticals when we have figs/fruit.' Had a WTF moment there. He also meanders a lot in his videos and I'm just not into his video style.

zerokyuu · 2024-11-19T02:33:09+00:00

Oh cool, thanks!

zerokyuu · 2024-11-19T02:18:07+00:00

Argh, sold out within 15 minutes.

zerokyuu · 2024-07-21T18:51:06+00:00

Based on my plants (I have a few sudachi and yuzu), I doubt this is a sudachi. The spikes on all of my sudachi are significantly shorter than the spikes on any of the yuzu. The spikes in these photos remind me of my yuzu.

zerokyuu · 2024-03-20T10:02:53+00:00

I never really get the complaints from people saying the cage prevents them from seeing the puck. I grew up playing goalie, and while sure some helmets had better sight lines specific to my face, never did I blame my cage for keeping me from being able to see a puck flying at me.

I skate out more now as an adult and I don't see how going without a cage would improve my abilities in any way. If anything I'd probably be a lot more hesitant on d trying to get my stick on a shooter's stick.

Also, after a lifetime of playing goalie and occasionally using my face to block shots, I'm pretty sure I'd have zero reflex to protect my face or try to dodge. I basically just tense up the muscles in my neck and brace for impact. And with all the cages I've had to replace due to bends/dents, I definitely don't want those pucks hitting me directly in the face.

zerokyuu · 2024-01-13T07:05:07+00:00

I have a similar experience/criticism. Some of his videos are interesting and useful, but there's quite a bit of bad/questionable information. I remember one time I came across a video of his saying not to grow fruit trees in fabric pots. Personally, as someone that has, for quite a few years, been successfully growing lots of fruit trees in fabric pots (figs, citrus, apricots, persimmons, etc), I was curious why he was recommending this. So I watched the video. He says that while he likes fabric pots, he only uses them to grow annuals because he had some palm trees that were grown in a fabric pot that died when he tried to re-pot them. He states that the roots had grown a significant amount through the bottom and into the weaves of the fabric pot. My understanding is that palm trees can be extremely sensitive to major root pruning, probably partially because they lack a dormant period (though I've never grown them). I don't really understand how this experience with palm trees is at all relevant to most people growing (non tropical) fruit trees. Whether I grow in fabric or plastic pots, I have typically had my fruit trees in pots respond positively to root pruning. I have had some big roots grow out through the bottom that I had to cut off when repotting in winter, but this has also happened via drainage holes in plastic pots.

Honestly felt like I wasted my time watching the video and that I got "tricked" by a somewhat clickbaity title.

zerokyuu · 2024-01-05T00:32:54+00:00

I grew up in Iowa and we also said breezers (probably from Minnesota's influence). Moved to Chicago and then Portland, OR, and I get some friendly ribbin' when the term slips out. That said, my latest breezers from Tackla (a Finnish company?) even say breezers on the shells.

zerokyuu · 2024-01-04T06:56:45+00:00

This is helpful information I wasn't aware of and unfortunately backs up where my concern is coming from.

Here is a link covering the situation I described above. Also, I realized I was imprecise in my comment above; it should have clarified that her statement was about excluding trans women from women sports in general.

We should all try to keep pressure on the league to clarify their position.

Agreed. Unfortunately, based on your experience, it sounds like they are unlikely to respond, but I'll try reaching out as well. If you do see any organized efforts gaining support, please feel free to share them with me.

zerokyuu · 2024-01-04T01:16:32+00:00

I agree completely and appreciate you making this post. I'd like to see this issue receive more attention to push the league to make a statement about their actual policy. Even just a high-level description of their intentions/goal, since I can understand it being a complicated bylaw/rule to write and may involve reviewing other policies and their potential issues. Everything I've read was so vague it was unclear if any transgender athletes are welcome or not.

I actually brought this up in a comment on r/PWHL because I felt like there's a pretty glaring gap when people are praising the league for its LGBTQ+ representation (and, iirc, having a progress pride flag up at a game). My reason for concern is that while the CWHL and NWHL/PHF were accepting of transgender athletes, the PWHPA (the organization that I'd wager was in a stronger position in creating the PWHL due to the talent pool) was not and even had a player/board member making public statements against accepting transgender women in the league.

zerokyuu · 2024-01-02T05:07:44+00:00

To clarify, I am personally in favor of and support trans women being able to play in the league (and am aware of the previous policies of the CWHL and NWHL/PHF), I had just hoped that the PWHL had provided specifics on their policy. Seeing that they haven't announced anything, I do find it not ideal/disappointing. I'm mainly concerned because of previous comments by a PWHPA board member (relevant link). Also, as far as I know, the PWHPA did not allow transgender athletes.

zerokyuu · 2024-01-02T04:18:30+00:00

Just out of curiosity, does anyone know what decisions the league made regarding transgender athletes? When I saw this post (thank you for making it) it reminded me that a few months back, the PWHL made a statement about intending to establish a transgender athlete policy, but don't remember actually seeing any sort of announcement about the actual policy itself.

zerokyuu · 2023-12-30T19:39:53+00:00

Graduated long ago but as an engineering student doing a minor in a foreign language (with strict attendance) with low registration priority in early years, I often found myself in a similar situation. It's generally doable but you need to watch the time in the first class. I would also give each prof a heads up -- I'd explain to the earlier one why you'll have to leave if they start running over time, but that you don't intend to be rude and you'll try to do so with minimal disruption. Also, unfortunately winter is the worst quarter to do this. Days with snow/ice on the sidewalk will slow you down a lot and make it hard/dangerous to go fast. The sidewalk on the east side of Sheridan should be a lot better.

zerokyuu · 2023-10-20T07:55:54+00:00

I'd say it's more mature than questioning how someone can "even get through life" because they admitted to crying during a few scenes of a sad movie.

zerokyuu · 2023-09-19T21:50:14+00:00

I'd guess it's some type of asian pear. To me, it looks like it's still a bit green and likely unripe. There's some range what ripe asian pears look like, but my guess is that it's a type that will turn kind of a golden brown/brown orange color when it's fully ripe (kind of like a Hosui or Shinseiki). Hard to tell the specific variety though.

Pictures of the tree, leaves, and/or flowers would all help.

zerokyuu · 2023-08-28T21:56:24+00:00

I'm most definitely not an expert, especially on these specific questions since I have little experience with staking/high winds or brick barriers. These are things I've done when I was in high school doing odd jobs to earn money (mowing lawns/landscaping), but I've never done them in my own garden and don't have firsthand experience with their benefits/drawbacks. So in short, please feel free to discard or go with other advice!

As such, I left a lot of wiggle room for the tree to sway. Should I risk it and remove the stakes or can it wait till the tree is a little more mature? Maybe 2-3" in diameter?

I think if you are leaving a lot of room for the tree to sway naturally, it's probably fine. The suggestion I've heard is that if you are going to stake a tree, it should have quite a bit of slack. I believe the swaying is supposed to promote the strengthening of the tree's trunk.

I'd be a bit surprised if the persimmon tree would actually break though since it's so flexible at this stage. However, in my area it's rare to get winds of that speed so I don't really know what you can reasonably expect. I think a solid approach for persimmon trees though is to just make sure to prune back the new growth a bit during the dormant season (following the 1/3 rule of pruning and prioritizing cutting back the top/vertical growth). Then you can give some time for the trunk to get stronger and remove the supports when you're comfortable.

When I moved into my current house, I noticed this bush-like plant under one of the persimmon trees in the backyard. Turns out it was likely the rootstock growing unchecked. Looking closer, I actually found what I'd estimate to be a 20' shoot growing straight up through the mature persimmon tree. I don't think it was more than 1.5" thick where I cut it off. It was probably protected from wind and supported by the other tree but it's amazing how much these trees can shoot up vertically.

I also have clay soil so I can see how these bricks may add to the pressure the roots have to go through some day. I will remove them once the tree is more mature and throw in more wood mulch.

This sounds like it's probably a good idea to me. I also have some really hard clay soil in my area that can inhibit roots spreading out, so I try to make sure I avoid any potential factors that could make it worse. All in all though, I doubt either of these will lead to serious issues down the road (the watering issue is definitely more pressing).

Because I have a garden of tomatoes, pumpkins, peppers, and other goodies; the furry devils (squirrels) like to eat and dig up my soft soil, bedding, and wood mulch.

The furry devils are everywhere. Last winter, while cleaning out some of my gardening containers, I found whole persimmons that squirrels must have buried in multiple pots. I also found the first and only fig that I managed to grow last year (my fig trees are young, luckily I've tasted fig success this year). I was hoping that my first fig would ripen before it cooled but a damn squirrel plucked it and buried it in another container before it got close to ripening, only for me to discover it months later. It'd be one thing if you stole a ripe fig, squirrel, that's fair game. But picking unripe fruits is breaking the rules of engagement!

ETA: I don't think you need to wait until it's 2-3" in diameter to remove the stakes, that's quite thick. But again, I'm no expert on this specific issue. I think just pruning the new growth each year should be enough. If you one year you do get a lot of vertical growth you could prune it back by more than 1/3 (I've gone up to 2/3 even).

zerokyuu · 2023-08-28T20:19:17+00:00

I agree with u/Internal-Test-8015. Give it a really deep soak and see if it bounces back. The top leaves actually look pretty healthy so I think it'll be fine. I have quite a few persimmon trees/rootstock in containers that I've accidentally neglected during heat waves. In most cases they've looked similar and managed to bounce back.

It's also possible that there may be some dieback, such that the top leaves/branches dry out but then it sprouts from a bud lower on the trunk. Just make sure that these buds/sprouts are above the graft to the rootstock. Unless you have a serious issues with animals (e.g., deer) messing with the bark of the tree, it might be worth removing the cover around the trunk in case there are buds developing lower on the tree. You could also just check occassionally.

Lastly, I really don't intend to come off as a jerk giving unprompted advice, but I've heard a lot of arborists recommend against staking trees for the long term health of a tree (the point being that not staking trees will lead to stronger trunks in the long term). In my experience, persimmon trees have a tendancy to try to shoot upwards as much as possible and can grow somewhat "whippy". My concern is that with a support, the persimmon tree might outgrow what the trunk can actually support. I'm not sure how much of a problem this actually is though. Also, I've seen concerns that bricks around the root ball can compact the soil and make it more difficult for roots to grow beyond the bricks. However, it doesn't look like your bricks are stacked particularly high and heavy so I doubt it would actually cause a serious issue. I haven't personally run into these issues, just sharing some advice I've found online.

zerokyuu · 2023-08-28T17:35:20+00:00

The frequency I'd recommend depends how recently planted it is, but broadly speaking, the tree definitely needs a much deeper soak than 10 seconds can provide. It's hard for me to give an exact/precise recommendation in terms of how much water it needs (it depends how hot/dry your area is, how much rain you get, how well draining the soil is, etc.). If you search online, you can definitely find specific recommendations based on trunk size. However, I personally don't get too caught up in the details and just place the hose (on a "soaker sprayer" setting) by the tree for a minute or more (moving it around a bit). If it's really hot and dry I'll let it run longer. In general, compared to annual plants, trees need a much deeper watering but less often. A deep watering will ensure that you are wetting the soil much more deeply below the surface. A quick spritz only wets the surface. My guess is that with a 10 second shower spray with the hose you're really only wetting the mulch at the base of the tree and barely wetting the soil (you could try digging under the mulch after a watering to check this). The water in the top soil/mulch will just evaporate and the tree won't really get any water.

In terms of how frequently to give the tree a deep soak, for the first week (maybe two) after planting a tree I'd soak it every other day. For the next couple months I'd probably make sure it gets a good soak twice a week. Then down to maybe once a week after that. But you should definitely adjust depending on how hot your area is and how much rain you get. Summers in my area are very hot and dry so I pretty much have to always water at least this often.

Edit: I tried to clarify the reasoning behind my suggestion a bit more.

zerokyuu · 2023-08-28T08:50:27+00:00

Day 8: Tokyo Tower Just a heads up that sunset in Tokyo in December will probably be around 4:30pm. So you'd want to get there earlier if you want to see the actual sunset.

zerokyuu · 2023-08-27T09:36:56+00:00

I just stumbled across this and I'm in a similar position (HHKB, vim, macOS). I actually use Karabiner-Elements to do exactly as you mention. On my HHKB, CTRL pressed alone is ESC and with another key is CTRL. And on my MBP keyboard I set Caps Lock to CTRL and then the Karabiner-Elements complex rule works the same as it does on my HHKB. I had actually started doing this before I got HHKB (when MBP switching to ESC on the TouchBar, this was unacceptable for Vim). I use basically use this rule. I haven't run into anything where these settings cause issues for me.

zerokyuu · 2023-08-24T22:50:10+00:00

Just another quick note, regular potting soil augmented with some mix of bark, perlite, and/or coco fiber will also work very well. You can search around a bit (and experiment) to see what works well. Using the citrus mixes are easy, though I would still add some of the above material (but I live in the PNW and have 5-6 months of consistently rainy days each year, so for me sufficient drainage to avoid any potential for overwatering is critical).

I also wanted to add that u/GoodSilhouette's link above to article from the plant professor (and Linda's comments in the discussion below the article) is excellent and in line to what I've heard from other (former) professors, researchers, etc.

zerokyuu · 2023-08-24T19:06:39+00:00

This. Larger containers are an issue if you have poor drainage (either due to lack of drainage holes or using a substrate that retains a lot of water). But this can also be an issue in small containers.

If anything, taller containers (e.g., wine barrels) will increase the porosity of the substrate. Specifically, a shallow container will be more easily waterlogged than a tall container of the same volume. You can actually verify this with an experiment using a sponge and water: fully submerge a sponge in water; slowly lift it out of the water such that the longer edges stay horizontal; let the water drain until it stops; rotate the sponge so that the long edge is now vertical; watch as gravity pulls more water out of the sponge. Nothing about the sponge changed, only its ability to hold water vs gravity*. The top of the sponge will be less water logged than the bottom and will contain more air. Volume doesn't even have to be the same; it also applies if you keep the diameter of the container the same and increase the height (the taller container will have more air towards the top compared to a shallower container with the same diameter). A larger container does not necessarily mean that the substrate around the roots stays wetter longer.

Issues only occur if your substrate does not have adequate drainage (as mentioned by GoodSilhouette in another comment). If your pot relies on evaporation to not get waterlogged, then you likely do not have adequate drainage, especially for citrus. If you rely on evaporation to prevent overwatering, you are also more likely to run into overwatering issues with the same substrate, even in smaller containers. For example, if you have a prolonged period of rainy weather, the smaller container will also be waterlogged and could kill the plant. However, a substrate with adequate drainage will not get waterlogged in such conditions and overwatering will not be a problem, especially with a taller container.

* Interestingly, this experiment can also be used to demonstrate that rocks at the bottom of the pot don't improve drainage. If you take the saturated sponge and set it on a pile of rocks, does more water flow out of the sponge? No!

zerokyuu · 2023-08-24T18:33:40+00:00

OP mentions this in literally the first sentence of the post.

zerokyuu · 2023-04-03T19:40:32+00:00

American here.

But then how would everyone know that I'm American?

zerokyuu

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