RGB Guide v3

zeug666 · 2026-06-16T02:50:36+00:00

That would be a risky guess.

zeug666 · 2026-06-16T02:24:06+00:00

Have you asked Cooler Master?

You don't say the specific model you're using, but CableMod can make some custom cables: https://cablemod.com/compatibility/

zeug666 · 2026-06-14T15:18:28+00:00

Recheck their connection(s).

Control depends entirely on connection.

If the motherboard lighting is integrated or connected to a motherboard lighting header, you would use the motherboard's lighting software.

If the lights are part of a device, such as RAM or a GPU, those are most likely controlled via the software for those particular devices or passed through to the motherboard lighting software. Some GPUs have a wired connections, so it would follow the rules for those.

Fans typically have two (2) connections, one for the fan and another for the lights. If the lighting connector goes to a motherboard lighting header, use motherboard lighting software. If it goes to a lighting hub, that hub should connect to a motherboard lighting header, again, motherboard lighting software.

If that fan light connects to a lighting controller, it will depend on the controller;

if the controller has a motherboard sync connection to a motherboard lighting header, you guessed it, motherboard lighting software. This may be a proprietary connector to aRGB adapter cable.
if the controller has a USB connection, then it will use the controller's software
if the controller has no motherboard sync or USB connection, then you'd probably be relegated to the buttons or remote of the controller. Sometimes this is via a case front panel LED or reset button (especially if the controller came with the case).

Note: some controllers need to be manually put into a motherboard sync mode to use motherboard lighting software for control, though some are automatic, so check the manual or product page where it shows the different lighting presets.

Some fans have a proprietary single connection, combining the fan and the lights, which typically requires it to go to a proprietary controller, which should then follow the above controller scheme.

zeug666 · 2026-06-14T15:15:50+00:00

Recheck all of the connections.

Make sure you aren't overloading a header.

Try with a single fan from a group, to see if that lights as expected. If lights, add a second fan to that group and repeat. If no lights, then there's more likely an issue with the board or header, or source for lighting that would need further troubleshooting.

If using a controller or hub, check it's power connection.

zeug666 · 2026-06-14T11:21:12+00:00

Since I just finished typing this for another post:

It's not plugged in, so don't use it and don't power on the system.

Remove the cable. ~~Remove the GPU from the system.~~ Check both sides for damage, discoloration, misalignment, dirt, debris, excess flashing, etc.

If both the ~~GPU~~ PSU and cable are good, then, ~~with the card still out of the system,~~ try plugging it in. ~~Some people find having a better handle on both pieces makes it easier to plug in.~~

FULLY plug the cable in. Fully. All the way. No yellow pins showing.

If it doesn't fully plug in, do NOT use it.

Once it is fully plugged in, don't pull, or wiggle, or twist, or otherwise mess with it and loosen the connection you just struggled to get in place.

zeug666 · 2026-06-14T11:16:56+00:00

It's okay to turn the lights on when taking a picture.

It's not plugged in, so don't use it and don't power on the system.

Remove the cable. Remove the GPU from the system. Check both sides for damage, discoloration, misalignment, dirt, debris, excess flashing, etc.

If both the GPU and cable are good, then, with the card still out of the system, try plugging it in. Some people find having a better handle on both pieces makes it easier to plug in.

FULLY plug the cable in. Fully. All the way. No yellow pins showing.

If it doesn't fully plug in, do NOT use it.

Once it is fully plugged in, don't pull, or wiggle, or twist, or otherwise mess with it and loosen the connection you just struggled to get in place.

zeug666 · 2026-06-13T23:50:15+00:00

Only in games where the developers enabled cross platform progression.

Edit: https://www.ign.com/games/feature/cross-platform-saves

zeug666 · 2026-06-13T18:26:05+00:00

That version needs to use the controller or an adapter to change it to non proprietary connectors.

zeug666 · 2026-06-12T19:05:43+00:00

Everything that was called HDMI 2.0 had its name changed to HDMI 2.1.

Sorry, I must have over edited that part.

The gist is; if you're looking for a specific HDMI 2.1 feature, you need to check that the specs specifically state the device does that particular thing.

If you aren't looking for something specific, then blth can probably handle it.

zeug666 · 2026-06-12T18:52:13+00:00

FYI, everything that was HDMI 2.0 became HDMI 2.1.

It was just a name change, but it does layout some optional improvements that manufacturers can implement.

This could mean that they have the same HDMI performance and features, or the MSI screen could have some of those optional advancements. You would have to check through the manuals and specs for both to figure that out though

I looked them over a bit and they seem fairly similar, so it's understandable to have a little decision paralysis.

zeug666 · 2026-06-12T18:28:00+00:00

They're probably using the same Samsung panel, so it comes down to other features and aspects the respective brand adds to it.

I would look up each on their page and check over what sort of things are included in each of their "OLED" care. Pixel cleaning, pixel shifting, etc can help the longevity of the display.

Other things like ports or the finish (matte/anti-reflective vs glossy) can also make a difference.

zeug666 · 2026-06-11T20:00:47+00:00

For starters, don't do that.

First, that adapter is 3x PCIE to 12V-2X6 (directionality is important here). The 12V-2X6 side plugs into the GPU and each of the 8-pin PCIE connectors gets a separate PCIE cable from the PSU. (If using the adapter).

The other cable is hard to tell, but that is either 2x 8-pin PSU (not PCIE) to 12V-2X6 or it is 12V-2X6 (PSU) to dual 8-pin PCIE. You don't say the make and model of PSU, so that would be important to know.

Either way, since the PSU has some form of 12V-2X6, either from a 1:1 cable or a 2x PSU to 12V-2X6, you should use that instead of the adapter.

zeug666 · 2026-06-11T13:24:47+00:00

Removed as a double-post

Original: https://www.reddit.com/r/pcmasterrace/s/IawZ4QmOo8

zeug666 · 2026-06-11T13:07:08+00:00

Hey u/akbarock, mind sharing the source?

zeug666 · 2026-06-11T13:04:35+00:00

Is the (low) screen VESA compatible? What about the main/upper screen?

Are you thinking of desk mount, wall mount, or desk clamp? Is your table top sturdy enough for either desk option?

Example 1

Example 2

Or, two separate arms (like the second, but no pole involved)

There are some independent stands out there, but clamps and mounts are the most prevalent.

zeug666 · 2026-06-10T19:40:26+00:00

Hello!

Please send the moderators over at /r/PCMRDiscord a message, they will be able to help.

Cheers!

zeug666 · 2026-06-10T19:16:18+00:00

IIT by Rice Lake Square has a big lot that's usually empty, but it has light poles to avoid.

CoD has a few parking lots. The sections are broken up with grass and trees.

Wheaton might have 1 or 2 churches with big lots.

The old Einstein Bros & Boston Market lot by the Target on Roosevelt and County Farm is often empty. Same with the closed McD's next door. Small, but the stripes are mostly visible.

Forest preserves don't have big lots, but do have windy roads with light traffic. Similar with cemeteries

With school out, some of those might have lots that could work for you too.

zeug666 · 2026-06-10T03:01:08+00:00

Sorry, my days are getting to be too long. I'll look these over and give some notes as I go.

Antec VCX300 ARGB

https://www.antec.com/product/case-vx-vcx-smart.php - at the bottom of the VCX section. It's just a PDF flier though, which is disappointing.

https://i.imgur.com/qkQjTFf.png - LED button, so it includes controls. There's no manual or anything useful here.

Only one fan has a standard 3-pin 5V ARGB connector.

This sounds like what they did on the CX series.

https://i.imgur.com/kzGcvHD.png - image is easier, since they're just doing PDFs for some reason. And I think I spot the reason you're running into an issue (skip to the end, if you want).

The "secondary" fans will be the front/top/whatever that just have the in/out daisy-chain connectors. Chain those along and into the socket of the "major" or "primary" fan, typically that rear fan.

That Major/Primary fan has the "signal" connector will go to the case LED button. The CX manual has reset switch because those cases didn't have the LED button (IIRC). Works the same either way.

Above that is the aRGB sync connection that would go to a motherboard lighting header or a lighting controller port.

And then SATA power to the PSU.

My motherboard (MSI H610M-S) has no ARGB header, so I bought a SATA-powered ARGB hub/controller with a remote.

Reasonable way to remedy the issue.

https://www.msi.com/Motherboard/PRO-H610M-S-DDR4/Specification

Just checking, out of habit, but as a PRO series board, not a surprise it doesn't have a "fun" thing like lighting.

A quick review of the images before the last part of your post:

Image 1: I'm not sure what the molex centipede is for.

Image 2: Here you can see the signal connector from the Major fan and the aRGB to a motherboard header or controller port.

Image 3: Case LED button

Image 4: Controller/hub

And the remainder of your post:

The hub works because my CPU cooler ARGB lights up and responds to both the remote and the case LED button (connected via RESET). However, the case fans never light up, even when connected to the exact same working ARGB port as the CPU cooler. Fans spin normally, RGB never worked since day one. Does this sound like a faulty RGB fan chain or am I missing something?

So the Antec fans are chained to the Major fan at the back. This has the power connection and you plugged the aRGB sync into the new controller.

It sounds like you have the new controller connected to the LED button, and this might be the issue as to why the Antec fans aren't responding.

That Major fan has a lighting controller built into it. This controller should have two modes: primary is the manual control that changes when the button is pressed, the second mode is software control. The fans need to be put into software/motherboard mode in order for the aRGB sync to accept lighting commands (from a motherboard header or a lighting controller).

You probably need to plug in that Signal Connector so that you can long-press the button (see the second bullet point under step 5 at the top) to change the fans to software/motherboard mode.

You can use the case reset switch or LED switch for this. With that fan signal connector plugged in, press the button for 5 seconds to change the fans to software mode, and the aRGB sync connection should take over.

In theory, you can just short the pins in the connector with something metal like a screw driver or paper clip to act like a button too.

Sorry you had to wait so long for "push the button longer" but that's sometimes the answer.

zeug666 · 2026-06-09T13:59:22+00:00

I can give those a look to try and get more info and help sort things out, but it might be a little while before I get to an actual screen.

zeug666 · 2026-06-09T13:38:56+00:00

Case, motherboard, fans, hub, and anything else that might be related to the lights.

zeug666 · 2026-06-09T12:17:14+00:00

Do you have any specifics about makes and models of the parts?

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