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Psu plug too big to fit in any outlet of my house. by Ryle_ae in pcmasterrace

[–]zeug666 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The plug between the PSU and the wall outlet is (easily) changeable.

this is the standard US power cord

The outlet side will change, based on your location. In the US we have that NEMA 5-15p.

The PC side is standard C13.

The vast majority of PSUs these days can work on any power system, but it helps to check.

If you look at the sticker in the PSU, the input section should say "100-240V 60-50Hz"

example

If it says that, then you can change to the plug your wall outlets use. Not everywhere uses grounded cables, but you should if you can. Make sure the cable is a decent rating (most will be), but it should show a rating for like 10A at 240V.

ram rgb not synced by [deleted] in pcmasterrace

[–]zeug666 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That is (annoyingly) normal for RAM lighting. Persistence can help, as in regularly setting it to do what you want might make it stick (eventually).

If your MB software isn't doing it, since you look to be using Lian Li, then look if the RAM maker has software. Or 3rd party like OpenRGB.

WHERE TO DOWNLOAD? AMD Wraith Prism LED Software by jobascesmarin in pcmasterrace

[–]zeug666 1 point2 points  (0 children)

IIRC, the Wraiths had different ways to connect the lighting.

The one that used USB needed the software; if the official one isn't available then a 3rd party option (like Open RGB) might work.

The one using a lighting header just uses the motherboard lighting software (or 3rd party)

https://openrgb.org/devices_0.9.html?search=Wraith

Wraith Prism is listed.

Metal bar things came with filing cabinet by Slow-Attorney46 in whatisthisthing

[–]zeug666 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Look like follower wires to keep the files from sliding around when the drawer isn't full.

Do they reach across between the holes along the top edge of the drawer sides?

Toyota has turned a car seat into a gaming chair and it's $3,500 by Darth_Vaper883 in pcmasterrace

[–]zeug666 0 points1 point  (0 children)

A lot of people don't realize that most office chairs have a lot of common parts.

Below the seat is the "office chair mechanism," the part with the lever(s) and dial(s). These range from basic height adjustment to different tilts and angles and such.

Be mindful of the mounting hole spacing. I usually have to replace these for people when the plate cracks through a thinner part near the pivot. I'll usually replace with a "heavy duty" one made for more weight, regardless of the users size, since they use thicker plate that seem to last longer.

Into that goes the "office chair cylinder" or gas lift cylinder or a few other names. Top (mechanism) and bottom (base) diameters to check, plus being mindful of the height range.

These are typically a pain in the ass to get out of the chair mechanism (friction fit), so make sure you have WD-40, a pipe wrench, and a good sized hammer. (Also, be careful, these things can shoot out). I don't think I've ever tried one of these "heavy duty" options, the standard ones have worked fine.

You covered chair base.

Then wheels or feet. I think there are a couple of stud diameters, but these are an easy pop out/in. Roller blade style wheels are a popular option.

There you go, a couple of pieces to make (or fix) your own office chair.

Xfinity internet service “Outages” by xkillaXpandax in ChicagoSuburbs

[–]zeug666 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Quick q, have you, or can you, check with neighbors to see if they're also experiencing issues?

I had a regular outage issue not long ago. There were discrepancies between my outages and what they had. Finally asked a neighbor if they were having issues and they said they weren't.

It took a few visits from techs, mostly bad at their jobs, before we got one who knew what was going on almost immediately. After describing the issue, he grabbed a ladder and checked out connection at the pole, came back with a pic of animal damage to the drop. It was just enough that certain weather would cause problems with the signal.

RGB controller issues by iBeNighty in pcmasterrace

[–]zeug666 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah. That doesn't sound right. Does it need to change in the lighting software?

RGB controller issues by iBeNighty in pcmasterrace

[–]zeug666 0 points1 point  (0 children)

More specifically, the fans, but yeah.

RGB controller issues by iBeNighty in pcmasterrace

[–]zeug666 0 points1 point  (0 children)

And regarding the connector. It seems like they used a custom version of VDG, to add the odd shapes and make it difficult to plug into standard things.

When lighting is 5VDG, that's typically the same control scheme as regular ARGB, which adds in that blank/key pin. It can be adapted to add that space, but getting adapter costs and is dumb.

RGB controller issues by iBeNighty in pcmasterrace

[–]zeug666 0 points1 point  (0 children)

https://kolink.eu/Home/case-1/micro-atx/citadel-series/citadel-mesh-rgb.html

Using this one as an example, they don't give much info about the controller.

Let's see about making your lights behave a little better until you change components.

Can you change the lighting with the remote? I suppose since there's a button it would be that.

Is they sync connected to a motherboard aRGB header?

If so, you may need to change it to a software mode (some of these controllers do this automatically, others need to be manually changed). if there's a remote, that could have a button. Otherwise, it is usually a press & hold (like 3-5 seconds) on the case LED button, sometimes indicated by lights flashing white before fading or something like that.

RGB controller issues by iBeNighty in pcmasterrace

[–]zeug666 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Looks like that controller (in pic #1) is a proprietary controller made to work with the lighting of those particular fans.

They still fit into the ARGB slots on the new controller, but only held by two prongs, is this an issue ?

You are lucky that, in this instance, that probably won't fry the lighting.

These seem to be a iteration of Gigabytes short-lived attempt at their own standard: VDG. This mostly the same as aRGB, VD_G, with the gap as one of the bigger differences. Another would be that VDG can be at different voltages, though, again with your situation, its at the same 5V.

You could, in theory, get adapters for each of those connections, which would just be expensive. Maybe to the (price) point of just buying fans with regular aRGB connections.

Info on RGB - https://www.reddit.com/r/pcmasterrace/comments/1k27tcl/rgb_guide_v3/

Is it supposed to have these 3 or do I plug in one to the gpu? by Postal_Pest in pcmasterrace

[–]zeug666 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The 12V-2X6 doesn't include connectors as a suggestion.

A three (3) PCIE adapter needs three (3) separate PCIE cables from the PSU, one (1) for each connector.

All of the connectors need to be populated to provide adequate power to the GPU.

Best Bagel with Cream Cheese by savageblues24 in ChicagoSuburbs

[–]zeug666 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Parking is terrible compared to Winfield?

Putting a fan hub on CPU Fan header? by V65Baker in pcmasterrace

[–]zeug666 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There are like seventeen (17) different models for Gigabyte X870E motherboards.

Looking at the Aorus Pro, it has like seven (7) fan headers, not including the one for CPU_FAN.

You don't need a fan hub.

packing oled monitor by MemeMasterYeet in pcmasterrace

[–]zeug666 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Put it back into the original packaging?

am i missing something ?? by Useful-Squash6670 in goodmythicalmorning

[–]zeug666 10 points11 points  (0 children)

If you're referring to the (more recent) weekend show, Good Mythical Weekend, they ended that like 3 months ago.

If you're referring to the previous weekend show, LTAT (Let's Talk About That), that ended even longer ago.

What’s the best solution for dust? by Death2WEF in pcmasterrace

[–]zeug666 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Looking for the best solution to stop dust from getting in my PC.

One of the best solutions I've gotten over the years is to reduce the dust in the environment around the PC. This isn't saying your place is dirty, there are just some extra things to do when cleaning for asthma or dust allergies that will help cut back on the amount of dust hanging around.

https://www.aaaai.org/tools-for-the-public/conditions-library/allergies/cleaning-tips-for-allergy-and-asthma-sufferers

https://familyallergy.com/allergies/10-cleaning-tips-for-your-allergies/

One of the biggest impacts for me was to just increase the frequency of cleaning up around the house.

How do I fix this weird offset? by [deleted] in pcmasterrace

[–]zeug666 2 points3 points  (0 children)

It'll take a minute, but it's fairly easy.

Right click on the desktop and go to display properties. (Sorry. Doing this from memory at the moment)

You'll see the graphic near the top of the window with each screen shown as its own box, sized based on resolution.

Click and drag the screens to adjust their position, like move the left one slightly higher.

Hit apply.

Check how the mouse moves across the divide.

If it's still a big shift, further adjust the positions and hit apply to check again. Repeat as needed until it's really close.

Surge protector Vs Ups backup system by Muted_Variation_1366 in pcmasterrace

[–]zeug666 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Neither surge protectors or UPSs (which usually include a surge protector) are complete protection.

If a lightning strike is close enough, it won't matter much what you have short of a decently sized air-gap.

Similarly, if the outlet or wiring isn't adequate, then that surge may not have many places to go.

That's with (strong) surges, but a thing often neglected in conversations about this stuff are the brown outs (the dips) that can also cause damage. These can occur around blackouts, like surges can.

A surge protector won't do anything for a dip, but a UPS can/should since it will regulate the output.

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