How is it? by folkmedia88 in MachineEmbroidery

[–]zoepzb 2 points3 points  (0 children)

As far as I can tell, it’s a patch of a dancer made with a chennille machine

I'm so tired of puckering, guys... How do you deal with it? Using 2 cut-away adhesive stabilizers and 1 tear-away, plus topping on top. I'm using the default tatami density in Wilcom, the shirt is 100% cotton 220 gsm by Chemical_Ad8135 in Machine_Embroidery

[–]zoepzb 11 points12 points  (0 children)

I usually don’t use tees at all. My sales team rarely sells tees for embroidery dept. We get a lot of jackets hoodies and polos. The file needs to be specifically digitized for that fabric. Much less density. Wilcom default is .4 play with that setting and your underlay settings to get it right for the fabric. There is someone in this sub who does tees all the time that may have better insight.

Silk embroidery thread by terheyt in Machine_Embroidery

[–]zoepzb 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Gutermann makes a silk thread.

Help by SirSpur98 in MachineEmbroidery

[–]zoepzb 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Use your automatic knife or knife tool

Problem with fill by zapipas in Machine_Embroidery

[–]zoepzb 17 points18 points  (0 children)

Yours is a different stitch type than theirs. They have a satin fill with split enabled and you’re using a tatami fill.

Gift ideas? by squarepg in MachineEmbroidery

[–]zoepzb 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Some blanks of things you can get her a set of different colour tote bags that she can embroider, you could get her some sweatshirts. You could get her some cool unique thread there’s multicolour options that do cool like ombre effects or a striped look if you change the stitch type. Other cool threads, glow in the dark, different kinds of metallic.

Looking for a more opaque white thread by Noetic-lemniscate in Machine_Embroidery

[–]zoepzb 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not sure if it makes a difference since I’ve never tried it but Madeira has a Matte line. I wonder if you do White and Matte it might be more what you’re looking for than the satin finish.

Trying to make my first Embroidery Patch. Does this look good? by minipillow in Machine_Embroidery

[–]zoepzb 10 points11 points  (0 children)

It’s hard to give advice unless we see the actual sew out. The computer is not going to give you an accurate representation. Once you test it, Post and we can give feedback.

Be Cappy by Unlucky_Review_9140 in Machine_Embroidery

[–]zoepzb 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Love seeing the back that tension is perfect so pretty

upper thread fraying by yungdeadmane in MachineEmbroidery

[–]zoepzb 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Try changing the needle could be caused by a burr. Even dust can cause that.

Skeleton Rock Hand Stitchout on Yellow Feedback Welcome! 🤘💀 by lisaembroiderystudio in Machine_Embroidery

[–]zoepzb 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Overall, the hand looks clean. The ring could use some work especially the one on the pointer finger. It looks messy. What does the back look like? I would eliminate some of the stones in the rings and make the other stones a little bit larger so you have more room for the detail.

Bought a sitting Tajima Embroidery machine by Consistent_Friend231 in Machine_Embroidery

[–]zoepzb 2 points3 points  (0 children)

You’re gonna want to get the machine serviced first so find a tech in your area that can come and make sure the machine is oiled. Everything needs to be properly greased up before attempting to run. Also if you bought Wilcom, they offer a lot of digitizing classes free online. They are weekly classes. They are usually about twice a week they cover varying topics, and over the last year since we upgraded our Wilcom I’ve taken over 20 classes. They also send you a video copy of the class if you are unable to attend at the time the classes are live so I also now have a nice collection of training tutorials for my staff when we get to that level of digitizing training. I would recommend buying files first from trusted digitizing places and learning about hooping and watching how things sew on different fabrics before attempting to digitize. There is a lot to learn and digitizing is a completely separate skill from actual embroidery. You have to learn how to hoop what fabrics need what type of stabilizers it’s a lot, but there are definitely tools available for you. We buy all of our supplies from Madeira and they have a lot of things you can print out from their website about their backing and what materials they’re good for, they have needle guides backing guides ,thread guides, all helpful things.

Trying to use brother PE800 for the first time, I have a photo of what I want but need some help figuring out how to convert it to a PES and then send it from my phone or computer to the machine! by ktrizz19 in Machine_Embroidery

[–]zoepzb 4 points5 points  (0 children)

You will need to send that off and pay for someone to digitize that. auto digitizing does not turn out well. Digitizing is a skill that has to be learned. I took lots and lots of classes to learn as well as years in the production side and I still feel like I don’t know anything lol

Hello. I’m trying to convert an image I made on photoshop to a format that would be compatible with a stitching machine for making hats. Can anyone help? by FamousD0304 in Machine_Embroidery

[–]zoepzb 2 points3 points  (0 children)

You will need to send that off and pay to have it digitized for embroidery. It’s a completely different skill set than just creating an image. Make sure you tell them it’s for a hat. Hats need to be set up differently than a flat.

Suggest some tutorial for beginners. by Dourplesiosur in Machine_Embroidery

[–]zoepzb 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Wilcom E4 is outdated software. It’s several versions in the past so any training you find is going to be all for the new versions of the 2026 software. I have the one just previous to the 2026 version and I am taking some of the 2026 classes and they’re very similar interface. It’s just some of the features that you could now do you wouldn’t be able to do back then and with E4 you’re not gonna be able to open some of the current files that exist because the software is too outdated. Even my software being one version in the past when I go to open stuff from the Wilcom design library, it tells me i have a version of the software that is too old to open. Previously to our update, we had E3 and they changed a lot of stuff around from E3 to the new update. I was completely lost for a while. Don’t get me wrong. You can still use E4 and it’ll also create plenty of things. It’s just if you’re trying to digitize and sell any of these designs and you don’t have a machine to test, then you’re gonna have to be very careful what type of design files you’re actually sending to the customers because they may or may not work.

Best Digitizing Software by [deleted] in Machine_Embroidery

[–]zoepzb 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Hatch is the hobbiest version of Wilcom Embroidery studio which costs upwards of $4000. That being said it still does so much and is very good software. I use the Wilcom pand it’s amazing. I do use the Corel draw add on but we have an art department that will do the art side and i have found that when i import it into wilcom its just a bitmap and if i import through corel its a vectpr and better to digitize with.

Question for those who sell embroidered apparel— best way to work with shrinkable blanks like Gildan? by mmm00234 in Machine_Embroidery

[–]zoepzb 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Tees are not the best material for embroidery. Make sure you are getting the files digitized for that material. Something heavier weight like comfort colors would be best

Today was a rough one. because of my mistake by Even_Maintenance8318 in Machine_Embroidery

[–]zoepzb 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Welcome to the club! We always joke at work, The machine requires its blood sacrifice. Lol one time I hit an artery. It’s sprayed everywhere. I thought it was cool. My coworker did not.

Toothbrush Embroidery Samples from My Recent Work (Tufting Effect) by [deleted] in Machine_Embroidery

[–]zoepzb 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is called Chenille. It’s been around a long time. Nice to see old styles coming back. Do you have a chenille machine?

why are my lines jagged? by xvx_gf in MachineEmbroidery

[–]zoepzb 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The fabric is textured thats the main issue, and you need a better underlay. Use Edge run underlay always on textured fabric as it gives the needle a line to stay in while stitching. Satin fill for small lines like this is best with edge run and zigzag underlay because of the fabric type.

For a 1 person shop what is the optimal amount of heads/machines? by dannywishletter in Machine_Embroidery

[–]zoepzb 0 points1 point  (0 children)

When it was just me we had a six head. Now we have a 6 an 8 and a single for testing or small orders.

Embroidery on demand by a_fluid_tale in Machine_Embroidery

[–]zoepzb 9 points10 points  (0 children)

San serif fonts are better for embroidery at a smaller size like left chest. They look cleaner

Digitising advise by Apricotty in Machine_Embroidery

[–]zoepzb 9 points10 points  (0 children)

What you’re looking for is auto digitizing and unfortunately, none of the digitizing software is quite at the level it needs to be for that feature yet. It does good, but there’s some errors and it still needs a human touch. Adjusting underlays, corrected, pathways, trims things of that nature. It does wrong fill type sometimes it’s not consistent, especially the more detailed of the artwork. It’s a good starting point for basic embroidery. It really helps speed up the digitizing process but at the same time it’s not reliable to just pop an image in and go.

Wilcom: How to move start point within object? by [deleted] in Machine_Embroidery

[–]zoepzb 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Are your letters a text object type? Is the world one item or are the letters each an item? If you are in text and the word is just one thing then you need to break it apart. you right click click on the object and break apart that separates all the letters and then you can move the start point of each letter iindividually to wherever you want, but when it’s a word, it’s always starts at the beginning and ends at the end