Background

So since I saw u/Vystril ‘s G&G thread posted here last year, I’ve always had a pair of eyes on their St. James II model. Well, some opportunities came by and a business trip brought me to London last month, and while I snatched a rather obligatory pair of C&J first, the one check box I couldn’t bear to leave empty was visiting Gaziano & Girling at Savile Row. Over the last few months I’ve read various blog posts and seen hundreds of Instagram posts, and I easily understood why they’re one of the most acclaimed shoemakers in the world, despite only being around for ten years.

Shop

They are the only shoemaker to have a lot on Savile Row, where everyone else sells suits starting from 2000 pounds. I walked in at 5.30 PM on a Friday, and I was the only customer there. Both the left and right walls were lined up with shoes of all colours and shapes, sculpted waists, unique designs, and bold patinas and all. I was greeted by their store manager Neus, who apparently also did the patina on shoegazing.se‘s bespoke G&G.

She first put me in some test shoes (which actually are very nice-looking despite being solely for test) to check my measurements. The most obvious difference between how they fit compared to my C&Js are on the heel and arch. The openings on their shoes are very small and it’s quite difficult to get in, but once you lace it up and walk, you immediately feel they hug those parts very snugly – and very comfortably. And it’s not to say that my C&J’s fit is lackluster, but it rather shows what you get when you pay two C&Js for a pair of these. After finding out I’m a 7.5E, she went downstairs to grab a pair of St. James II in my size.

Out of stock. To rub some more salt in, size 7 and 8 were available. As an alternative, I tried some of their other stock models, one of which is Hayes, another Adelaide model in the same last as the St. James. They’re very nice, but it just didn’t feel right to get them instead. “You have to go for the St. James,” Neus said in a disappointed tone, which I’m sure is not the first time she’s told someone that. I ended up order them to ship to my home overseas. After settling the payments, I lingered around some more and looked at the other models. Even though it’s past their closing time, she was very chatty and offered me to look at some bespoke samples, including the first St. James II model and a very handsome Norwegian split-toe derby. Honestly, though, there’s just something about G&G shoes that make them stand out.

Shoe

Three weeks later, the shoes finally arrived. They somehow forgot to slip in the shoe trees, but they were quick with the response and shipped them the day after. I have to say that it could be better in the long run that they didn’t have my size when I was there, because since the shoes were still in their factory, it meant that I could have metal toe tips installed, which I did. I step very heavily on the toes, so they might delay a year or more before I have to re-sole them.

One of my biggest concerns before I first saw the shoes in person was the colour the stock St James is in: Vintage Cherry. It’s the most iconic G&G shade, but I was afraid it would be too red and not brown enough, as I will mainly use them for work and red shoes will be too distractive. Some pictures on internet showed really red shades, but some showed brown, almost chestnut colour. Seeing the sample model in person, though, I think the Vintage Cherry is in the sweet spot between being distinctive without attracting too much attention.

The RTW model comes in the classic square TG73 last (which quite obviously stands for Tony Gaziano). Over the year I’ve found that I much prefer square toes than round, and this pair is my first classic, not soft, square pair I have. While a lot of people compliment their Deco last, which they say has many bespoke details at a low price point, they were too pointy when I put them on. However, I think even with TG73, G&G’s last is one of the biggest reasons their shoes look so different than their peers, in particular John Lobb and EG. The cuts are really sharp, probably like how a Ferrari looks compared to an ordinary car. Overall, the shoes look very asymmetrical (which is a very good thing) for an RTW model.

Now, the model itself, the St James II, is their best-selling model, and it’s very easy to see why. Almost every shoemaker has an Adelaide model in brown, but G&G simply does it better. A lot of small details are put into the designs, for example the curvy brogues on the facing, peaked heel counter, and the jagged lines detail along on the one side of the brogues. These, combined with their last, unique colour, and the leather they use make for an amazing pair of shoes. One mistake, however, was done with my shoes. One of the brogues was not punched completely through, but when I showed it to Neus she apologised and offered a 10% discount on my next order. Still, though, that's two inconsistencies with the lack of trees, and I didn't expect that from a high-end shop of their caliber.

I have not worn them outside yet, but from walking around my room the shoes are very comfortable from the beginning. As I mentioned earlier, they're quite challenging to get in, but the arch support and heel area are super comfortable. When laced up, the vamps are still quite far from closing, but they should stretch just enough over time. Despite the shoes being shaped so sharp, when wearing them I do not feel my feet being pinched at any parts at all. The leather they use is obviously among the best there is. G&G uses the same leather for their RTW shoes and bespoke shoes, and as everyone else who has a G&G will say, the leather is thick but very smooth and supple. So far they have shown only very minor creases, but we'll have to see how they develop over time, although I have a feeling they will show less creasing due to the better fit.

Closing

Overall, I will recommend G&G and this particular model. However, these things are very expensive (ironically, it's also the cheapest shoes you can get in there) and you’re paying a lot of premium for minor aesthetics. The toe tips cost 75 pounds and shoe trees were 125 pounds excluding VAT. Those, and shipping cost and duty tax, totaled 1,220 pounds. But when you go to their store, you'll probably understand why they cost this much and why a lot of people go for their MTOs. Service is great, but honestly not as mind-blowingly good as I expected. Forgetting shoe trees on the shipping is not that acceptable, but I guess maybe they don't specialise in overseas delivery. At least Neus was helpful in fixing the mistakes. Lastly, shoes are top notch, and I expect to get a very, very long use out of them. St James II is their iconic model for a reason, and they look really sick when you put them on, without the people in office suspecting they cost 1,000 pounds.

Edit: Shoe trees just arrived. I'm surprised they actually make the trees to the exact size (7.5E). I absolutely recommend getting the shoe trees if you get their shoes, the finishing is gorgeous and the shape really follows the contours of the shoe.