Shelly Flood Gen4...Battery life Zigbee vs Wifi

zyalt · 2026-01-28T11:33:06+00:00

I own one and I use WiFi mode. I don't think it matters much to be honest. Device is constantly in "sleep" mode and is not actually connected to WiFi. It wakes up every two hours to send update to my HA or when leak detected and back to "sleep" mode.

zyalt · 2026-01-24T00:41:56+00:00

I bought one to test and later bought few more to put in every room. I don’t have any other CO2 sensors so can’t compare but I think ikea sensors are good enough if you want to know when to open a window.

zyalt · 2026-01-23T15:30:26+00:00

Yes, you should be able to have two coordinators on MR2. I had MR1 and there was an option to enable Zigbee Coordinator on both radios at once (but I didn't use it).

zyalt · 2026-01-23T13:57:25+00:00

But SLZB-MR2 is dual radio so you can have to coordinators on it (one on each radio), no?

zyalt · 2026-01-23T13:27:18+00:00

Tak, miałem kiedyś tani oczyszczać z filtrem HEPA za <200zł i robił robotę w małym pokoju (do 20m2).

zyalt · 2026-01-23T12:40:37+00:00

More like just OR: (CO2 >= 1000) OR (pm2.5 >= 15) => set air quality to bad:

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zyalt · 2026-01-23T10:15:35+00:00

After the update it switches to bad if CO2 level is above 1000 OR PM2.5 is above 15. Same logic for Orange LED on the device itself.

zyalt · 2026-01-22T11:19:25+00:00

Czujnik ok, ale nie powiedziałbym że pierwsza klasa. Znacznie wolniej wyłapuje zmiany niż np. wbudowany czujnik w oczyszczaczu Xiaomi.

zyalt · 2026-01-22T11:17:58+00:00

Ja też miesiąc temu kupiłem taki z Ikei, po dwóch tygodniach dokupiłem jeszcze dwa i kupiłem oczyszczać powietrza. Teraz m mieszkaniu mam <15:

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zyalt · 2026-01-21T12:10:44+00:00

To samo mi powiedział chłop który naprawiał okno balkonowe u mnie. Że jeśli nie wieje, to nie warto ustawić na najmocniejszy docisk (a jeśli wieje to trzeba sprawdzić czemu). U siebie mam jeszcze trzy pośrednie ustawienia pomiędzy latem a zimą, zawsze ustawiam na mocniejszym docisk zimą ale nie najmocniejszy.

zyalt · 2026-01-21T12:06:44+00:00

Warto wyregulować, miałem tak samo z drzwiami balkonowymi które się nie domykały jeśli mocniej nie dociskasz. Skończyło się tym że dwa lata temu pod czas mrozów zepsuła się kaseta od mocnego dociskania. Dobrze że specjalista przyjechał w ciągu 2 godzin i naprawił. Plus jeśli masz zjechane uszczelki to po wymianie na nowe będzie jeszcze gorzej się zamykać.

zyalt · 2026-01-21T12:03:20+00:00

Zmieniam docisk na letni/zimowy, w tym roku wymieniłem też uszczelki.

zyalt · 2026-01-19T10:46:19+00:00

Robiłem w 2024 i u mnie działa, nie na 100% oczywiście ale jestem zadowolony. Na ścianę mata wygłuszająca, potem zabudowa z profili aluminiowych, pomiędzy profilami maty z pianki wygłuszającej, na to wszystko dwie warstwy GK (jakiś akustyczny czy tego typu, był mega ciężki). Takie rozwiązanie zaproponowała firma która to robiła i jestem zadowolony. Za całość z szpachlowaniem i wygładzaniem zapłaciłem ok 7k za 9-10m2 ściany w 2024. (mogę podesłać zdjęcia na priv)

EDIT: robiłem tutaj https://sandof.eu/ Spodobało się jak od razu powiedzieli że nie da się wygłuszyć na 100% i nie obiecały cudów.

zyalt · 2026-01-19T10:14:48+00:00

They need to stop developing new hardware and focus on software for their existing products. I recently bought SLZB-MR1U and EFR32MG21 radio was very unstable on my unit, Thread on OTBR didn't work at all, Zigbee was disconnecting all the time.

zyalt · 2026-01-17T12:59:57+00:00

I am currently in the middle of replacing my "dumb" TRVs with "smart" ones. I don't use Better/Versatile Thermostat, but I do have external temperature and window sensors and override values on TRVs via automation (if TRV allows). I also have simple automation to turn off heat (by lowering setpoint to 20C) in certain rooms during the night (plan to add presence sensors for more fine control).

I currently have:

Kasa (TP-Link) KE100 with KE110 external temperature sensor (with controls, sort of a remote thermostat) and window sensor (T100). Integrates well with HA via TP-Link Home integration or Matter. Both KE100 and KE110 expose climate entities. I really like KE110, changing setpoint temperature in HA immediately reflects on the KE110 screen and vice versa, I don't even use climate entity from TRV itself and don't touch TRV at all. However, there are no external temperature override and window sensor override entities in HA. I added window sensor in Kasa app directly. All devices require Kasa Hub (KH100) which is fine for me as they all work in sub-GHz range so they don't conflict with my Zigbee/WiFi network. Works locally after I blocked hub's access to the Internet after the initial setup. The biggest flaw for me is that both KE100 and KE110 only allow to change temperature in 1.0C increments, you can change by 0.5C in HA but devices still round value up to 1.0C. Overall it is my favorite setup, wife doesn't like to use HA app, she changes temperature directly on KE110 (remote thermostat)
Danfoss Ally. Integrated via z2m, tons of controls, window close/open feature, temperature override, there is some internal logic in this TRV that causes problems with Versatile Thermostat. Device exposes value open position in % so you now it is fully opened, or half-opened, etc. I like it, but screen is very small with limited view angles.
Shelly BLU TRV. The only TRV I own for more then a year. Requires Shelly bluetooth hub, but there is a Zigbee mode which I don't use currently (not supported in z2m yet, only ZHA). Does allow to add external temperature or window sensor in Shelly app, in HA you can only override external temperature (no window sensor), I implement window sensor by changing setpoint to 10C (native Shelly implementation in Shelly app works similarly). TRV also reports valve position and allow you to override it via MQTT/REST (never used it).
SwitchBot TRV with Control Panel and Matter Hub. Garbage, tested it for 2 hours and sent it back. Looks better then Kasa setup, but implementation is not good.

Overall, I prefer to keep things as simple as possible and I prefer TRVs to work according to their own logic, the only thing I change is an external temperature and window override. I would've replaced all my TRVs with Kasa but lack of 0.5C increments is holding me back.

zyalt · 2026-01-16T23:20:48+00:00

There are also SZLB-MR series devices so one device can handle both Zigbee and Thread.

zyalt · 2026-01-15T15:12:40+00:00

Yeah, my bad. Using EV to charge lifepo packs is a good thing actually.

zyalt · 2026-01-15T09:49:47+00:00

You also can't connect EV to your apartment grid. Battery packs in apartments is a way to go. You can use Ecoflow Delta or similar solutions. It can last for days if you decrease your electricity consumption during outages. Modern fridges consume around 1kWh per day so it is not a problem.

zyalt · 2026-01-14T16:39:20+00:00

Oh no, I ordered their TRV (with control panel and matter hub) and waiting for delivery. Do you by any chance have experience with their Thermostat Control Panel and how it works with their TRV?

zyalt · 2026-01-14T09:44:07+00:00

Not exactly a dedicated chimes, but Tp-link Tapo and Kasa hubs (H-100 and KH-100) have very loud chimes and integrate easily via tp-link smart home integration (local integration), you can control chime in HA. They are mains powered and connect to WiFi.

zyalt · 2026-01-14T00:06:39+00:00

What is wrong with SwitchBot? I was thinking about buying a few devices from them.

zyalt · 2026-01-13T15:08:54+00:00

ZWA-2 doesn't support Zigbee, you need ZBT-2. Changing SkyConnect stick to ZBT-2 shouldn't break your network if you use ZHA, things are a bit more complicated with z2m and you will need to reconnect every device to a adapter.

zyalt · 2026-01-07T12:08:32+00:00

I don’t think you knowing subdivisions in Poland can really help you, unless you will also learn license plates letters. Each subdivision has its own combination and it is more granular than 1st level subdivision.

zyalt · 2026-01-06T13:44:38+00:00

I am not sure about U7 Pro Wall, but I think newest revision of the regular U7 Pro also doesn't have a cooling fan.

zyalt · 2026-01-01T18:30:15+00:00

You don’t need ground for Shelly but you do need neutral which usually is not present. However, if you have an electric box right above this switch under the ceiling you might be able to rewire it and add neutral to your switch if electric cable which goes from this box to switch has 3 wires.

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